Uneven finished length weaving lampas

Jane Eisenstein

I am working with a type of lampas in which there are thick 'pattern' warps as well as wefts (see attached draft image). After weaving several small samples, I've woven a couple of longer pieces on my dobby loom. The pattern warp was wound on the main warp beam. A much finer 'binder' warp was wound on the second warp beam. In these pieces, the finished length at the edges is longer than at the middle of the piece.  In the latest piece, the warp ends on the edges of the second warp were noticeably loose towards the end of the warp.

I'm using a temple and am at a loss as to how to correct/ work around this issue. Can this be prevented?

Sara von Tresckow

I've been doing lampas on the drawloom for a while. Even did a full sized
bedspread (20/2 cotton ground and 30/2 cotton binder with wool/cotton
wefts). I have not had that happen, though uneven takeup is always a
possibility when mixing materials and structures. You have each warp on a
separate beam which is good. When I have differential lengths it is usually
that the selvedges are shorter than the center. Do you have any difference
in the center of the design that is using more rows of one structure than
the other? I do not have a second warp beam so was using supplemental chains
weighted with drawloom lingos - the threads could ride along in small groups
- I sometimes noticed differential takeup, but apparently at the fell line
the wefts were beating in evenly. You might wish to sample using a
supplemental weighted warp and see if there is any difference.

Sara von Tresckow, Fond du Lac, WI
Author of “When a Single Harness Simply Isn’t Enough”
http://www.woolgatherers.com Dutch Master Loom/Spinning Chairs/Öxabäck
Looms, visit us in Fond du Lac or contact us about your weaving/spinning

Jane Eisenstein

I believe you hit the nail on the head. I've been designing wide margins on the sides, top and bottom. The pattern warp stays on top on the sides of the fabric through the entire length. In the center of the design, sometimes the pattern warp is on top and sometimes the pattern weft is on top. The more often the pattern warp interchanges with the pattern weft, the more uptake there will be. These differences would effect binder warp take up as well.

Seems I need to work out how to weight the binder warp in areas where there will be less take up. Oye!

Su Butler

HI Jane…..when I weave Lampas I have all the warp on one beam.  Even when I am using different sized threads in warp and weft.  One thing you might try is to use a different structure than plain weave for one of your layers.  That can make a big difference in the way the layer takes up, even with thick and thin threads.  Lampas is really fun to play with and introducing other structures into the mix creates some really interesting cloth!



Su Butler