fabric opening up, how to remedy?


Anna Ravano
 

I've just finished a jacket woven in plain weave, warp and weft in a viscose-linen blend (light) and wool (dark) (see attached photo, arrows showing the warp direction). I wove the bodice and the top+sleeves on the same warp, separating the collar section and weaving it with two shuttles per side, so that the only seams are the ones joining top and botton and those joining the bottom of the sleeves.

The problem is that the fabric at the collar opening is under stress and it has started opening up.

How can I remedy it? I thought of sewing some bias binding all around the inside of the collar. What do you think? Is there a better solution?

Anna Ravano


Lorraine Whale
 

Firstly, that is really pretty. I sewed a lot of garments in my past and I would interface collars, cuffs and facings, it makes the edges crisp and also provides extra strength for button holes, buttons, points etc. You could try a light iron-on interfacing.

Lorraine

On May 19, 2022, at 4:41 AM, Anna Ravano <aravano@...> wrote:


I've just finished a jacket woven in plain weave, warp and weft in a viscose-linen blend (light) and wool (dark) (see attached photo, arrows showing the warp direction). I wove the bodice and the top+sleeves on the same warp, separating the collar section and weaving it with two shuttles per side, so that the only seams are the ones joining top and botton and those joining the bottom of the sleeves.

The problem is that the fabric at the collar opening is under stress and it has started opening up.

How can I remedy it? I thought of sewing some bias binding all around the inside of the collar. What do you think? Is there a better solution?

Anna Ravano





<giscca lino-viscosa lana copia.jpg>


Linda
 

I agree, it looks like a lovely jacket! The stress points will almost always start to separate. This is similar to what happens with a ruana woven with the same technique. I always try to stabilize it, but I also usually turn it into a decorative element. If the fabric is sturdy, I might just stitch over with an embroidery design. But usually I add a commercial fabric as either a binding or a facing. A narrow facing, that is carefully stitched down along the neck, with a finished free edge that is also stitched down, can look very attractive. The facing can be on the outside or the inside. I usually repeat the use of the commercial fabric as trim somewhere else on the article. A narrow line of unstuffed piping in the seam between the sleeves and the body usually looks nice, for example.

Linda

On May 19, 2022, at 7:41 AM, Anna Ravano <aravano@...> wrote:


I've just finished a jacket woven in plain weave, warp and weft in a viscose-linen blend (light) and wool (dark) (see attached photo, arrows showing the warp direction). I wove the bodice and the top+sleeves on the same warp, separating the collar section and weaving it with two shuttles per side, so that the only seams are the ones joining top and botton and those joining the bottom of the sleeves.

The problem is that the fabric at the collar opening is under stress and it has started opening up.

How can I remedy it? I thought of sewing some bias binding all around the inside of the collar. What do you think? Is there a better solution?

Anna Ravano





<giscca lino-viscosa lana copia.jpg>


Sara von Tresckow
 

No sewing tips, just to compliment you on a very attractive jacket.

Sara von Tresckow, Fond du Lac, WI
sarav@...
Author of “When a Single Harness Simply Isn’t Enough”
http://www.woolgatherers.com Dutch Master Loom/Spinning Chairs/Öxabäck
Looms, visit us in Fond du Lac or contact us about your weaving/spinning
needs


bigwhitesofadog
 

It looks to me that the neck opening is faced.  If so, I would open it out and also apply light fusible interfacing.  If it isn't faced I would hand stitch bias tape, made of leftover fabric, if possible, around the neck.  I also like to use fusible to reinforce and stabilize.
Sandra 


Cheryl S
 

Beautiful jacket design and fabric. I’ve bought good fusible interfacing from this company https://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/   
Cheryl


Nann Miller
 

What a great jacket!!  One of the things I often do to stabilize a seam is to stay stitch (which you probably did), but also include 1/4 twill tape very near the seam line.  Twill tape isn't flexible/bias like bias tape, but it can be eased on gentle curves.
Nann Miller


From: weavetech@groups.io <weavetech@groups.io> on behalf of Anna Ravano via groups.io <aravano@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2022 7:41 AM
To: weavetech@groups.io <weavetech@groups.io>
Subject: [weavetech] fabric opening up, how to remedy?
 

I've just finished a jacket woven in plain weave, warp and weft in a
viscose-linen blend (light) and wool (dark) (see attached photo, arrows
showing the warp direction). I wove the bodice and the top+sleeves on
the same warp, separating the collar section and weaving it with two
shuttles per side, so that the only seams are the ones joining top and
botton and those joining the bottom of the sleeves.

The problem is that the fabric at the collar opening is under stress and
it has started opening up.

How can I remedy it? I thought of sewing some bias binding all around
the inside of the collar.  What do you think? Is there a better solution?

Anna Ravano






Anna Ravano
 

Thank you everybody for your nice words and very helpful suggestions!

Anna Ravano

*From:* weavetech@groups.io <weavetech@groups.io> on behalf of Anna Ravano via groups.io <aravano@...>
*Sent:* Thursday, May 19, 2022 7:41 AM
*To:* weavetech@groups.io <weavetech@groups.io>
*Subject:* [weavetech] fabric opening up, how to remedy?
I've just finished a jacket woven in plain weave, warp and weft in a
viscose-linen blend (light) and wool (dark) (see attached photo, arrows
showing the warp direction). I wove the bodice and the top+sleeves on
the same warp, separating the collar section and weaving it with two
shuttles per side, so that the only seams are the ones joining top and
botton and those joining the bottom of the sleeves.
The problem is that the fabric at the collar opening is under stress and
it has started opening up.
How can I remedy it? I thought of sewing some bias binding all around
the inside of the collar.  What do you think? Is there a better solution?
Anna Ravano