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Using a second warp beam

sklarek2
 

Anne, I’m glad you have the 2nd back beam/separator…. Here is .one more important detail. The C-shaped metal bracket at both ends that clamp it to the back beam is not symmetrical - it has a long end and a short end. I don’t remember which one is supposed to be up or down , but put it on so that the top of the separator is higher than the back beam so that it separates the two warps both horizontally and vertically. If it is put on upside down it will be lower and doesn’t do as good a job of separating the two warps . In that case, just flip it the other way. 

On Wed, Sep 14, 2022 at 5:12 PM Anna Ravano <aravano@...> wrote:
Susan and Sara, thanks a lot! Great explanations, I'm really grateful.
And Susan, now I know what the long piece of wood hooked on to the back
of the beam that puzzled me is for!

Anna Ravano







--

Sue Malvern
 

You’ve been given a really wonderful and comprehensive explanation.

I’ve got a couple of small tips. When you’re threading keep checking the second warp is above the first, ie. don’t accidentally cross any ends. Similarly when sleying keep the two warps well separated - it’s also easy to cross ends over in the reed. 

I lash on the two warps separately not together.

Also as has been said, you need to thread for sett - so if the sett is different say in a ration of 1:2 then you’d thread one ground warp and then two supplementary ends and so on. They then go through the reed together. 


As correcting threading errors is a total pain with two warps, it’s worth taking the time to check the threading as you go frequently - learned this the hard way. 😜
Anna Ravano
 

Susan and Sara, thanks a lot! Great explanations, I'm really grateful. And Susan, now I know what the long piece of wood hooked on to the back of the beam that puzzled me is for!

Anna Ravano
sklarek2
 

SORRY, I SENT THE LAST EMAIL TOO SOON.....
HERE IS THE WHOLE THING AGAIN, WITH ONE ADDITION IN ALL CAPS, AND THEN THE REST OF INSTRUCTIONS AT THE END....

On Wed, Sep 14, 2022 at 11:20 AM Susan Sklarek <ssklarek@...> wrote:
I believe the writer said they had two warp beams…..
I teach this technique every year to my students at RISD using Macomber looms. 
It is very helpful , if it essential, to have a “raddle” and a “double back beam” (or warp separator) in order to help align the ends if both warps correctly and keep them from rubbing each other . Note that the double back beam is NOT the warp beam but just a separator that hooks onto the back beam at the top rear of the loom..
ALSO NOTE - Macomber makes nice raddles that match the loom,  but you can make one easily with a length of 1” x 2” wood , and put in nails at 1” intervals along the le ter of the 2” flat side. I would use 1,5” long nails and hammer about 1/2” so they are well anchored.
We use the “back-to-front” method where you stand at the front and tension the warp ends while winding it on to the warp beam in back, prior to threading.
Start with the double back beam or warp separator off of the loom.
Tie the raddle on top of the back beam at both ends, outside of the area where the warp will be.
Start with the warp for the top warp beam - 
Attach it to the tie-on rods at the warp beam and bring it forward through the harnesses to the front of loom.
Carefully insert lease sticks in cross without twisting the warp in between the warp beam and the lease sticks.
Hang the lease sticks from the castle so that the cross is just below the height of the heddle eyes. Use a slightly too long cord and tie in a tight bow so you can get it out easily later to lower them.
On the raddle, mark the center of the loom and also put a temporary mark where the edges of the warp will be in order to center it in the loom.
Standing at the back, and at one side, with one hand hold the warp tightly (or section by section if it is wide) and with the other hand, separate out a 1” group of warp ends and move them into the first 1” space of the raddle , then separating them all the way back to the warp beam so that in the end they will all be parallel and spaced correctly there too. WHEN THE WARP ENDS ARE CENTERED AND SPACED IN THE RADDLE, YOU'LL WANT TO WRAP A CORD AROUND THE SPOKES OR NAILS OF THE RADDLE TO KEEP THE ENDS DOWN AND SEPARATE FROM THOSE OF THE SECOND WARP. JUST TAKE A LONG PIECE OF CORD AND TIE IT TO A NAIL AT THE SIDE OF TH RADDLE, THEN DO AN E-WRAP, WINDING IT AROUND EACH NAIL AND PUSHING DOWN TO JUST TOUCH THE WARP ENDS. 
Now you can wind on the first warp, with tight even tension, stopping so there will be about 8-12” left in front of the breast beam at the front.
-Now put on the double back beam/separator on the back beam over the first warp.
-now you need to lower the lease sticks on the 1st warp you just put on to get it out of the way of the second warp - lower them about 6”.

HERE IS THE REST: PUTTING ON THE 2ND WARP USING THE BOTTOM WARP BEAM:
Using the bottom warp beam, put the second warp on the same way with a few extra details...
The warp will come over the newly added 2nd back beam/separator.
Hang the lease sticks so the cross is just a hair below the heddle eye height.
Now put the ends in the raddle, making sure that they align with the 1st warp - also in 1" sections. 
The ends of this second warp will sit on top of the e-wrap cord which will keep them from shifting or catching on the ends of the first warp. 
At the front of the loom, take the first warp and tie loosely in a big slip knot and let hang down in front of the lease sticks.
Bring the chain of the 2nd warp to the front of loom, tension the ends and wind on as usual, again leaving about 12" inches past the front breast beam of the loom.

NOW BOTH WARPS ARE WOUND ON AND THE NEXT STEP IS THREADING:
-Adjust the height of both lease sticks as follows:
-the lease sticks for the 2nd warp (lower warp beam) are on top and should remain so that the cross is just slightly below the heddle eyes.
-Try to hang the least sticks from the stick that will be closest to the back of the loom - this will tilt the cross towards you to make threading easier.
-Then adjust the height of the 1st warp (upper warp beam) : Hang it from the stick that will be closest to the back of the loom so that it will tilt it with the cross towards you when you thread. 
-The two sets of least sticks will hang vertically one on top of the other.
Now you can thread going back and forth between the two least sticks. 
If the ends per inch is the same for both warps, and your cross is 1x1, then you can alternate back and forth between the two least sticks after each end. If you have a different epi ratio  between the two warps you alternate them as needed for your threading. 
Then you do the reed as always, making sure to account for the double density of the ends:
   -for example if you have two warps of 12 epi each, then you have a total of 24 epi.
  - If using a 12 dent reed, then you would put 2 ends in each dent of the reed.
When done, tie on to the front as usual , but first trim the warp ends so they are all even
- you can usually tie groups that have both warps together, just be careful to pull them both at even tension. 
THAT'S IT! My apologies for such a long explanation, but I don't know your warping method and I know this way works very well.

ONE MORE NOTE: 
Sara's directions are excellent in case you only have one warp beam, however I would like to add a note to it:
There are many other reasons for using two warps besides having one as a long supplementary warp.
So when you do have two beams, the decision of which one to put on which beam .....there is another consideration:
For example: Sometimes I want to put on one very long warp, and have the other one short so that I can change it out for another short one. In this case, You need to put the longer warp on the top beam, because it will be land-locked once the loom is set up. For the warp that you may want to change or tie on to, it will always need to be on the bottom beam, as that one is accessible.
Another example, if you want to paint or print on one warp only  - that should be on the bottom beam so that it could be lifted easily behind the harnesses in order to insert a padded board under it to print on, etc.

If you have any problems or need more explanation or details, please free to write me separately:
Best,
Susan Sklarek, RISD Textiles, ssklarek@...



On Wed, Sep 14, 2022 at 10:20 AM Sara von Tresckow <sarav@...> wrote:
When doing two warps without a second warp beam, first choose which will be
the "supplemental" warp that is weighted off the back beam in small bouts.
If one of your warps is longer, it sounds like it is going to have more
takeup and need less tension than the shorter warp. That would be a good
reason to choose it as the supplemental.
Then beam your "main" warp on the beam as usual.
Make your chain(s) for the supplemental warp. I usually make three or four
warp chains and sometimes split those when weighting (gives more even
tension that way). You use a separate set of least sticks for this warp,
thread it as desired, and then hang the ends of the small bouts over the
back beam with "weights". I have begun using drawloom lingos for the weights
(2 ounces each) and can adjust the weight of each bout as needed.
I worked this way for about 3 years doing lampas, Beiderwand and other tied
weaves on my drawloom. The supplemental warp was always the one with the
most takeup - and I was even able to add to one of the warps that ended
before the main warp.

Sara von Tresckow, Fond du Lac, WI
sarav@...
Author of “When a Single Harness Simply Isn’t Enough”
http://www.woolgatherers.com Dutch Master Loom/Spinning Chairs/Öxabäck
Looms, visit us in Fond du Lac or contact us about your weaving/spinning
needs







--


--
Susan Sklarek

Senior Critic
Textile Department
Rhode Island School of Design
2 College St., Providence, RI 02903


Cell: 401-487-1459
sklarek2
 

Oops, I sent too soon…the whole thing is below …along with one addition (IN BOLD) to the first part....



On Wed, Sep 14, 2022 at 11:20 AM Susan Sklarek <ssklarek@...> wrote:
I believe the writer said they had two warp beams…..
I teach this technique every year to my students at RISD using Macomber looms. 
It is very helpful , if it essential, to have a “raddle” and a “double back beam” (or warp separator) in order to help align the ends if both warps correctly and keep them from rubbing each other . Note that the double back beam is NOT the warp beam but just a separator that hooks onto the back beam at the top rear of the loom..
ALSO NOTE - Macomber makes nice raddles that match the loom,  but you can make one easily with a length of 1” x 2” wood , and put in nails at 1” intervals along the le ter of the 2” flat side. I would use 1,5” long nails and hammer about 1/2” so they are well anchored.
We use the “back-to-front” method where you stand at the front and tension the warp ends while winding it on to the warp beam in back, prior to threading.
Start with the double back beam or warp separator off of the loom.
Tie the raddle on top of the back beam at both ends, outside of the area where the warp will be.
Start with the warp for the top warp beam - 
Attach it to the tie-on rods at the warp beam and bring it forward through the harnesses to the front of loom.
Carefully insert lease sticks in cross without twisting the warp in between the warp beam and the lease sticks.
Hang the lease sticks from the castle so that the cross is just below the height of the heddle eyes. Use a slightly too long cord and tie in a tight bow so you can get it out easily later to lower them.
On the raddle, mark the center of the loom and also put a temporary mark where the edges of the warp will be in order to center it in the loom.
Standing at the back, and at one side, with one hand hold the warp tightly (or section by section if it is wide) and with the other hand, separate out a 1” group of warp ends and move them into the first 1” space of the raddle , then separating them all the way back to the warp beam so that in the end they will all be parallel and spaced correctly there too.
WHEN ALL THE ENDS ARE SPACED AND CENTERED IN THE RADDLE, TAKE A PIECE OF CORD AND DO AN  
Now you can wind on the first warp, with tight even tension, stopping so there will be about 8-12” left in front of the breast beam at the front.
-Now put on the double back beam/separator on the back beam over the first warp.
-now you need to lower the lease sticks on the 1st warp you just put on to get it out of the way of the second warp - lower them about 6”.
-now you can put on the second warp on the lower warp beam…..

Here is the rest and notice correction in bold above:

Put the second warp on the same way, with a few changes…..
In the back the warp will come over the newly added 2nd back beam/separator.
Hang the lease sticks so the cross is just a hair below the heddle eye height. On Wed, Sep 14, 2022 at 10:20 AM Sara von Tresckow <sarav@...> wrote:
When doing two warps without a second warp beam, first choose which will be
the "supplemental" warp that is weighted off the back beam in small bouts.
If one of your warps is longer, it sounds like it is going to have more
takeup and need less tension than the shorter warp. That would be a good
reason to choose it as the supplemental.
Then beam your "main" warp on the beam as usual.
Make your chain(s) for the supplemental warp. I usually make three or four
warp chains and sometimes split those when weighting (gives more even
tension that way). You use a separate set of least sticks for this warp,
thread it as desired, and then hang the ends of the small bouts over the
back beam with "weights". I have begun using drawloom lingos for the weights
(2 ounces each) and can adjust the weight of each bout as needed.
I worked this way for about 3 years doing lampas, Beiderwand and other tied
weaves on my drawloom. The supplemental warp was always the one with the
most takeup - and I was even able to add to one of the warps that ended
before the main warp.

Sara von Tresckow, Fond du Lac, WI
sarav@...
Author of “When a Single Harness Simply Isn’t Enough”
http://www.woolgatherers.com Dutch Master Loom/Spinning Chairs/Öxabäck
Looms, visit us in Fond du Lac or contact us about your weaving/spinning
needs







--

sklarek2
 

I believe the writer said they had two warp beams…..
I teach this technique every year to my students at RISD using Macomber looms. 
It is very helpful , if it essential, to have a “raddle” and a “double back beam” (or warp separator) in order to help align the ends if both warps correctly and keep them from rubbing each other . Note that the double back beam is NOT the warp beam but just a separator that hooks onto the back beam at the top rear of the loom..
ALSO NOTE - Macomber makes nice raddles that match the loom,  but you can make one easily with a length of 1” x 2” wood , and put in nails at 1” intervals along the le ter of the 2” flat side. I would use 1,5” long nails and hammer about 1/2” so they are well anchored.
We use the “back-to-front” method where you stand at the front and tension the warp ends while winding it on to the warp beam in back, prior to threading.
Start with the double back beam or warp separator off of the loom.
Tie the raddle on top of the back beam at both ends, outside of the area where the warp will be.
Start with the warp for the top warp beam - 
Attach it to the tie-on rods at the warp beam and bring it forward through the harnesses to the front of loom.
Carefully insert lease sticks in cross without twisting the warp in between the warp beam and the lease sticks.
Hang the lease sticks from the castle so that the cross is just below the height of the heddle eyes. Use a slightly too long cord and tie in a tight bow so you can get it out easily later to lower them.
On the raddle, mark the center of the loom and also put a temporary mark where the edges of the warp will be in order to center it in the loom.
Standing at the back, and at one side, with one hand hold the warp tightly (or section by section if it is wide) and with the other hand, separate out a 1” group of warp ends and move them into the first 1” space of the raddle , then separating them all the way back to the warp beam so that in the end they will all be parallel and spaced correctly there too.
Now you can wind on the first warp, with tight even tension, stopping so there will be about 8-12” left in front of the breast beam at the front.
-Now put on the double back beam/separator on the back beam over the first warp.
-now you need to lower the lease sticks on the 1st warp you just put on to get it out of the way of the second warp - lower them about 6”.
-now you can put on the second warp on the lower warp beam…..



On Wed, Sep 14, 2022 at 10:20 AM Sara von Tresckow <sarav@...> wrote:
When doing two warps without a second warp beam, first choose which will be
the "supplemental" warp that is weighted off the back beam in small bouts.
If one of your warps is longer, it sounds like it is going to have more
takeup and need less tension than the shorter warp. That would be a good
reason to choose it as the supplemental.
Then beam your "main" warp on the beam as usual.
Make your chain(s) for the supplemental warp. I usually make three or four
warp chains and sometimes split those when weighting (gives more even
tension that way). You use a separate set of least sticks for this warp,
thread it as desired, and then hang the ends of the small bouts over the
back beam with "weights". I have begun using drawloom lingos for the weights
(2 ounces each) and can adjust the weight of each bout as needed.
I worked this way for about 3 years doing lampas, Beiderwand and other tied
weaves on my drawloom. The supplemental warp was always the one with the
most takeup - and I was even able to add to one of the warps that ended
before the main warp.

Sara von Tresckow, Fond du Lac, WI
sarav@...
Author of “When a Single Harness Simply Isn’t Enough”
http://www.woolgatherers.com Dutch Master Loom/Spinning Chairs/Öxabäck
Looms, visit us in Fond du Lac or contact us about your weaving/spinning
needs







--

Sara von Tresckow
 

When doing two warps without a second warp beam, first choose which will be
the "supplemental" warp that is weighted off the back beam in small bouts.
If one of your warps is longer, it sounds like it is going to have more
takeup and need less tension than the shorter warp. That would be a good
reason to choose it as the supplemental.
Then beam your "main" warp on the beam as usual.
Make your chain(s) for the supplemental warp. I usually make three or four
warp chains and sometimes split those when weighting (gives more even
tension that way). You use a separate set of least sticks for this warp,
thread it as desired, and then hang the ends of the small bouts over the
back beam with "weights". I have begun using drawloom lingos for the weights
(2 ounces each) and can adjust the weight of each bout as needed.
I worked this way for about 3 years doing lampas, Beiderwand and other tied
weaves on my drawloom. The supplemental warp was always the one with the
most takeup - and I was even able to add to one of the warps that ended
before the main warp.

Sara von Tresckow, Fond du Lac, WI
sarav@...
Author of “When a Single Harness Simply Isn’t Enough”
http://www.woolgatherers.com Dutch Master Loom/Spinning Chairs/Öxabäck
Looms, visit us in Fond du Lac or contact us about your weaving/spinning
needs
Anna Ravano
 

Could you point me to a good explanation, online or in print, on how to mount two warps of equal width (about 90cm) but definitely different in length on a loom (a 16-shaft Macomber) with a second warp beam? I've never used this particular loom before and I'm not sure how to go about warping it.

Anna Ravano
Milan

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