I have an Etekcity Lasergrip 1080 thermometer, which is the same model Carol used in class. It's not intended for use on humans. It's accuracy is ≥100°C±2% ≤100°C±2°C, so good enough for my

Thank you for sharing all that information Jane. Did you use the kind of infrared thermometer used for checking forehead temperature? Linda

Thank you Tien. Useful information! Linda

I'm currently creating dye samples using direct application and mini-full immersion techniques taught by Carol Soderlund. I repurposed my Brod and Taylor bread proofer for batching the samples.

Linda, if you’d like to email me directly it might be more efficient or we could do a phone call if that would help. Sent from liz's iPhone Www.aweaversway.com Instagram: Moncriefliz

In my experience it hasn’t been necessary. MX dyes when painted or low-water immersion dyed have set for me just fine at room temperature (65F and higher). They will set FASTER at higher

Thanks Denise. That seedling mat idea looks interesting. I was wondering about my warming drawer. The bread proofing setting is about 100 F. Has anyone used this for direct application/low water?

Linda, I'm talking about direct application. You're still using room temperature Urea water for mixing the dyes -- but, as I mentioned, the key is to cure the dyed yarn in a warm setting. Some people

Thank you! Thank you everyone for your help! I noticed a common theme..."hot water temperature". When I dug out my thermometer to check, my water temperature was well below 140, so I added more

I agree with Tien's suggestions. Sara Fort Wayne, IN

Go to the source: Try calling Pro Chemical and Dye in Fall River, MA 800-238-9393 or 508-675-3838 and ask to speak to someone in their lab. Good luck and Happy Holidays! --

Linda, I know this isn't helpful for your current project, but it may be helpful going forward: I learned (the hard way) that in order to properly cure MX dyes, you have to leave them overnight in a

Thanks for posting this, Louise.

This is extremely unusual behavior in my experience and I wonder whether the problem is the variegated rayon rather than the MX dyes. I routinely use MX dyes on silk without bleeding problems (and

Linda, I know you’ll get several responses to this as there are so many dyers out there, but here are my 2 cents: I’m afraid you’ll just have to continue with your rinses until its over with.

If your dye came from Dyechem, that’s the first port of call for help. For what it’s worth, my guess is that you left too long a period between making the dye liquor and entering the fabric. The

My experience is with MX dyes and cotton. The Pro Chem instructions call for 140 F water to prevent running. How hot is hot? I would try going up to maybe 160 to make sure. Tap water is

I need help/suggestions. I'm over-dyeing a shawl with navy Procion MX Fiber reactive dye, and I'm still getting colour coming out in the rinse. It's been two days now, and I've done about 15 hot

I haven't contributed to the weaving world as much lately. BUT..I wanted to pop in and say how much I appreciate the depth of knowledge in this group and everyone's willingness to share. Current

While we’re on the topic (or were a few days ago), I have a question for the linen experts, or possibly the textile-manufacturing experts. Background: A neighboring guild in New Jersey, Frances