Date   

Re: The Griswold site?

Marg Coe <margcoe@...>
 

Yes, Ralph's Digital Archive is still hosted on the CS department's system, and there's every indication it will remain there.

However, accessing the Archive through Handweaving.net provides a important. Kris provides search features that are missing when you access the archive directly.

http://www.handweaving.net/DAHome.aspx

Marg

Sent from iDevice
www.e-weaving.com


Re: The Griswold site?

Tien Chiu
 

On Thu, Apr 3, 2014 at 7:37 AM, <kerstin@...> wrote:
Maybe I have lost the url - but I got a google hit referring to www.cs.arizona.edu/... and I can only get "server not found", regardless of what level I try.
Earlier, I had the impression that handweaving.net is a mirror, but (as I have been told), it is not so.
Are the griswold (sp?) archives gone? Or am I just unlucky today?
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/weavedocs.html is working
for me - try again? (I think it's unlikely that server would go away
permanently...it's the website for the computer science department at
a university.)

Tien
--
Website: http://www.tienchiu.com
Personal blog: http://www.tienchiu.com/category/blog-posts

I'm writing a book!
Creating Craft: A Guide to Designing Original Pieces
http://www.creatingcraft.com/welcome


The Griswold site?

Kerstin Fröberg
 

Maybe I have lost the url - but I got a google hit referring to www.cs.arizona.edu/... and I can only get "server not found", regardless of what level I try.
Earlier, I had the impression that handweaving.net is a mirror, but (as I have been told), it is not so.
Are the griswold (sp?) archives gone? Or am I just unlucky today?

Kerstin in Sweden
http://bergdalaspinnhus.com
http://oddweavings.blogspot.com


Fine threads

Charlotte Lindsay Allison <cjla422@...>
 

I prefer using a warping mill with a cross at both ends. I wind twice the length and hence, wind half as much. Once the warp is wound, I chain from one end to the middle, begin a new chain to the cross on the other end. Once secure, I go back to the first chain and re-chain to the cross. Voila!

Charlotte Lindsay Allison


Re: Fine threads

sandrarude
 

Hi, Maryse,
I use a warping wheel when I make a warp of 60/2 silk at 72 epi. I find that the warping wheel helps me keep the tension constant for the entire warp. I've also used it for the rest of your range - from 60 to 120 epi, with silks from 60/2 to 140/2 grist.
Best,
Sandra

On 4/2/2014 7:57 PM, Maryse Levenson wrote:

What technique is best to prepare a warp with 60-90 -120 epi?

A warping warp. A warping wheel? Spools and a tension box?

Thank you.

 

Maryse



Fine threads

Maryse
 

What technique is best to prepare a warp with 60-90 -120 epi?

A warping warp. A warping wheel? Spools and a tension box?

Thank you.

 

Maryse


Re: Problem using AVL CompuDobby II using Weavepoint Softwear

Linda Davis <tomlin@...>
 

Thanks for responding! As it turns out, I learned I need to install a different VCP driver. Haven’t done it yet but sounds like the right fix.

 

Linda

 

Handwoven Creations

 


Re: Problem using AVL CompuDobby II using Weavepoint Softwear

Doreen McLaughlin
 

Kati asked: Is the USB power-save what makes my screen go black after a 20-30 minute weaving session?  I'm still able to weave, just can't see the screen until I touch the pad or wiggle the mouse. 

 

No, that is the result of a different power-saver.

In Windows, go to the Windows Icon (bottom left corner in Win7).

Then go to Control Panel.

Click on Appearance and Personalization.

Click on Personalization.

Click on Change screen saver.

Change the number in the Wait box to 9999.

Click on Apply.

Click on Change power settings (at the bottom of the box).

Click on Balanced.

Click on Change plan settings.

Change all four boxes to Never.

!Note: if you always have your computer plugged in when you are weaving, then you can leave the battery settings at they are.

Click on Change advanced power settings.

*Go and click on each of the boxes with a + in it. Continue clicking on + boxes until you get a choice of either Plugged in or On battery.

Click on the words Plugged in. A box will appear with a number in it. Erase the number and type in the word Never. Do the same thing with the words On battery (see Note above).*

Repeat between * and * for each of the + boxes ESPECIALLY the Desktop background settings, Sleep, Display, and MOST IMPORTANT the USB settings. On the USB selective suspend setting, type in the word Disabled rather than Never.

Click on Apply.

Click on OK.

Click on Save changes.

You should be back at the Screen Saver box. Click on Apply.

Click on OK.

Exit out of Control Panel.

 

For those of you who wonder why, the answer has to do with the fact that the way our weaving software interfaces with our computer dobbies is by treadling. The power-saver functions are programmed to look for a keystroke, mouse, or touchpad input, not a treadle input; that is why it shuts down your display and your USB Com ports in the middle of weaving. As far as the power-saver programs are concerned, by treadling rather than typing, clicking, or touching, you are not using the computer. By running through the above procedure, you will shut off the power-saver programs and weave without worry that the black screen of death with appear without warning.

 

Yours in weaving,

Doreen

 

 

 


Re: All things AVL, a thank you!

addicks@...
 

I do hope Doreen does not mind that I copy, save, and print every single tech-goddess inspired message she posts. I appreciate and delight in the fact that she has saved my bacon more than once, and should she care to assemble and put up for sale all her collected wisdom on these lovely old looms, I'd be the first in line to plunk down cold hard PayPal for that book in any format.
Alison Addicks
Rice, WA
Nr.s 718, 1286, 1540


Re: Problem using AVL CompuDobby II using Weavepoint Softwear

Sara von Tresckow
 

Actually, what you probably need to find is the Power Control option in the Control Panel. This is easy to find. There, you will find a pull down list of times to wait before blanking the screen and going into sleep mode. If you are running your loom on a dedicated computer, just set both to NEVER and you're good to go.
(I personally use a Dell laptop over 10 years old and from the start was not interested in screen burn or power save as this machine only runs when the loom is working.)
It is just plain annoying to be weaving and have the screen go dark, so from day 1 I've had it so when the Dell is fired up, the screen is ALWAYS visible - it only darkens when I turn it off.

Sara von Tresckow, Fond du Lac, WI
sarav@...

http://www.woolgatherers.com Dutch Master Loom/Spinning Chairs/xabck
Looms, visit us in Fond du Lac or contact us about your weaving/spinning needs


Re: Problem using AVL CompuDobby II using Weavepoint Softwear

Kati Meek
 

Hi Doreen,
 
Thank you for stepping in to help on technical problems.  I am interested in your comment: For those of you with a technical bend, I also recommend going
in and disabling the automatic USB power-save shutdown via the device manager.

Is the USB power-save what makes my screen go black after a 20-30 minute weaving session?  I'm still able to weave, just can't see the screen until I touch the pad or wiggle the mouse.  I use WP on my beloved Toika - what a loom!  If you answer is yes, I'll try to get techie enough to do this.  Kati

Treadle with Joy,
 
Kati Reeder Meek
Treehouse Handweaving Studio
Reflections from A Flaxen Past: For Love of Lithuanian Weaving, Warp with a Trapeze and Dance with your Loom
http://katimeek.blogspot.com


Re: Problem using AVL CompuDobby II using Weavepoint Softwear

Doreen McLaughlin
 

            I am not Bjorn (Hey, Bjorn!), but I will answer your question: all computers, regardless of operating system (OS) only check for a serial connection, such as the one between the computer and the Compu-Dobby, once, at Startup. It does not matter if you have a USB port on your computer (and, consequently, a USB to Serial transition cable).

            This is why, when the computer and Compu-Dobby are not communicating, I recommend shutting everything down (not Sleep or Hibernate or Restart [which is different from Shut Down]). I also recommend disconnecting all cables, inspecting them, then reinstalling the cables. Then turn on the Compu-Dobby. After the solenoids have all fired, then turn on the computer. After the Startup has completed, open WeavePoint, go into Weave, then Options, then Find the Com Port.

            For those of you with a technical bend, I also recommend going in and disabling the automatic USB power-save shutdown via the device manager.

 

Doreen


Re: Problem using AVL CompuDobby II using Weavepoint Softwear

Linda Davis <tomlin@...>
 

Bjorn, what does it mean if you get a message that it can’t find any COM ports when the device manager says there are 4 and all are working properly? Just so happens I am trying to connect up a different laptop than I have been using and am having a similar problem.

 

Linda

 

Handwoven Creations

 


Re: Problem using AVL CompuDobby II using Weavepoint Softwear

Sam Hayden
 

Hi Bjorn,

 

Thank you for your comments.   I have WeavePoint 6 which doesn’t have the facility for finding the correct COM Port so I did it by a process of elimination, trying each one in turn.  With COM Port 4 I could bring up the weave window but the horizontal box at the bottom of the window which should show details of which pick etc is being used is empty although the fabric and shafts being used show above correctly.

 

Kind regards,

Sam 

 

 

 

Most likely it's just a question of choosing the right COM port in WeavePoint Options. If you have a more recent version, you can click the Find COM Ports button to find which number the computer has set the port to. Note that if you unplug and reconnect the serial-to-USB adapter to the computer, it happens that the computer sets a new number for the port - then you need to change the number also in WeavePoint Options. The port number you choose in the software needs to match the actual port number used by the computer.

Bjorn Myhre
- author of WeavePoint


Triennale Design Museum

Paola Besana
 

Dear friends,

I'm thrilled to inform you I've been invited by Beppe Finessi, curator of the seventh edition of the Triennale Design Museum, to be one of the exhibitors. This edition's theme is "ITALIAN DESIGN BEYOND THE CRISIS. Autarchy, austerity, productive self-sufficiency".

My exhibits are going to be a piece I wove in 1968, very small but very important to me, and the photos of a series of group performances in which, in the 1970s, we merrily turned ourselves into human looms.

For more details see the "novità" page on my website.

Wishing you a spring full of joyful textile and non-textile activities,

Paola

. . .


Cari amici,

mi fa piacere dirvi che, dal curatore Beppe Finessi, sono stata invitata alla settima edizione del Triennale Design Museum, il cui tema quest'anno è: "IL DESIGN ITALIANO OLTRE LE CRISI. Autarchia, austerità, autoproduzione".

Partecipo con un vecchio piccolissimo, ma per me importante, lavoro del 1968 ed una serie di azioni tessili di gruppo del 1977-1980, in cui allegramente siamo diventati noi stessi telaio.

Per i dettagli cliccate sul mio sito "novità".

Sperando di mescolare di nuovo presto le nostre mani in eventi tessili e non, vi saluto con primaverile allegria.

Paola
--


Paola Besana
Via Sismondi, 5
20133 Milano - Italia
www.paolabesana.it


Re: Three-shaft damask...some thoughts

Sandaidh
 

From: Erica de Ruiter
I read your message with great interest, claiming that I was the one who developed the structure and technique.
I am delighted to read your efforts in weaving this technique.
Did you put up your project after Marjolyn Van der Wel's article in Complex Weavers' Journal?
The description there was very clear.
-------------------------------

Yes, I used the Complex Weaver's Journal article for both inspiration and instructions. It is very clear and any "problems," such as starting with a 2/1 twill instead of a 1/2...well, that's operator error, not a problem with the article.

--------------------------------
I can not interpret the contrast between your warp and weft yarn, but you saw already that the color and/or saturation contrast must be almost maximal, as the difference in warp and weft dominance is really minimal.
Also take care your motifs are robust to show off well.
------------------------------

I had thought the contrast between the yarns would be enough, but now that I'm 'into it' I can see that it could be better. The motifs, the leaves, aren't huge in size but they do show well. I'll actually reserve complete judgment until the sample is off the loom and wet finished. These were more 'as I'm going along' thoughts.

-----------------------------
I hope you will keep us informed about your efforts and in provide us in the end with pictures.
----------------------------

I shall. I'll be making pictures as I go along and will post them when I'm finished. Thanks so very much for helping me out with this project.

Sandy
sandaidh@...


Re: Three-shaft damask...some thoughts

Kati Meek
 

Sandy,
 
Cool-sounding project. Can't wait for pictures. Generally, a light coming from the side, rather than overhead, makes seeing cloth much clearer. BTW, a mirror is very handy for seeing the underside of cloth, but got to get the light under there as well. Kati
 
Treadle with Joy,
 
Kati Reeder Meek
Treehouse Handweaving Studio
Reflections from A Flaxen Past: For Love of Lithuanian Weaving, Warp with a Trapeze and Dance with your Loom
http://katimeek.blogspot.com


Re: Problem using AVL CompuDobby II using Weavepoint Softwear

fnylbrum@...
 

Most likely it's just a question of choosing the right COM port in WeavePoint Options. If you have a more recent version, you can click the Find COM Ports button to find which number the computer has set the port to. Note that if you unplug and reconnect the serial-to-USB adapter to the computer, it happens that the computer sets a new number for the port - then you need to change the number also in WeavePoint Options. The port number you choose in the software needs to match the actual port number used by the computer.

Bjorn Myhre
- author of WeavePoint


Re: Three-shaft damask...some thoughts

Erica de Ruiter <ederuiter@...>
 

Dear Sandy,
I read your message with great interest, claiming  that I was the one who developed the structure and technique.
I am delighted to read your efforts in weaving this technique.
 Did you put up your project after Marjolyn Van der Wel's  article in Complex Weavers' Journal?
The description there was very clear.
I can not  interpret the contrast between your warp and weft yarn, but you saw already that the color and/or saturation contrast must be almost maximal, as the difference in warp and weft dominance is really minimal.
Also take care your motifs are robust to show off well.
I hope you will keep us informed about your efforts and in provide us in the end with pictures.

Erica de Ruiter,
 Malden, The Netherlands


Verstuurd vanaf mijn iPad

Op 30 mrt. 2014 om 21:20 heeft "Sandaidh" <sandaidh@...> het volgende geschreven:

 

It's been a while since I asked about the subject, so I thought I'd update.

I finally got a warp on the 8 shaft Inca for the project - 20/2 cotton, 40
epi, 15 inches wide and 3 yds long. The warp is a light blue (aqua on the
cone label) with 2 inch wide borders of a darker blue (Falk blue on the cone
label). Both cones were purchased from Robin & Russ long, long ago. My
weft is the darker, Falk blue.

Warp went on fine, no problems. Threaded shafts 1, 2 and 3 of the 8 on the
loom. Wove 4 shots and then hemstitched. That was a minor hitch as I'd
forgotten how to hemstitch because I haven't done it in so long. But it did
come back after a little bit. I guess it just took the doing to remind me.
Then I wove about 4 inches of a 2/1 twill before realizing that it should
have been 1/2. Duh. I've been away from the loom too long. After the 4
inches, I switched and wove about 4 more inches of 1/2 twill. Then I pinned
the cartoon to the woven part of the warp.

The cartoon is of some kind of small leaves "copied" from the pattern on a
decorative pillow in my living room. I didn't use the vine/stem part of the
pattern, just the leaves. I drew the cartoon on a piece of Reynolds Freezer
paper.

At this point, I've done about 8 to 10 inches of the design.

Thoughts -
My color choices might have been better with more contrast between the light
and dark. While there is a good contrast between the aqua and falk blue,
the pattern is coming out pretty subtle. Something to put on the "try this
next" list.

It's not fast, although it's not as slow as anticipated once into the rhythm
of the weaving. Fortunately, it doesn't take too long to catch onto that
rhythm.

Not something to do with less than optimum lighting. Even with bright
daylight coming through the window, I ended up turning on the overhead
light. A lot of that is likely due to the "not the best" lighting set up I
have in the room, and my older eyesight but I would still want a good,
bright light to work under.

Heh. My glasses have to be "set" in 'granny' mode - half-way down my nose -
in order to see the warp well enough to do the pick up.

I'm noticing some small tensioning differences when I advance the warp.
Hopefully, these will even out when the piece is wet finished. They'll also
probably vanish with practice, just as they did when I first began weaving.

I'm curious to see the underside, but haven't got enough woven to be around
the breast beam yet.

I'll post pictures when I make them.

Sandy
sandaidh@...


Re: Weaving Shops in the SF Bay Area

Sam Hayden
 

Hi Augusta,

 

Thank you for your suggestions and kind wishes of support.  Thankfully another kind weaver has pointed me in the direction of using a different weave software which worked perfectly first time so I’m up and working again.

Best wishes,

Sam

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