Re: Weaving terms for structures


I was taught, albeit years ago, that the term broken twill meant that a twill structure was being woven but the usual twill line was broken either in warp or weft.  It did not matter if the break was due to threading or treadling, as any weave structure is determined by the actual interlacement of the threads, not by a single element of the whole.  There are variations on the way broken twill can be created, just like there are myriad variations on a twill……so the broad term, broken twill, was used in the correct context, imho.


Su 😊


From: On Behalf Of Sally O
Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2021 10:19 AM
Subject: [weavetech] Weaving terms for structures


A new weaver asked me if "broken twill" was the correct term to use for her weaving "structure" after she completed samples from a recent workshop. The instructor provided the draft and used that term, so in that context I thought it was okay.

However, I did not see the actual draft. That got me to thinking, could "broken twill" actually mean a variety of different structures? In other words, it's a pretty broad term, right? When searching the term in, a whole variety of patterns come up, some with a straight draw threading where the twill break happens in the treadling, and some with the break happening in the tie-up.

Yes, I floundered about with my edition of Emery in the pursuit of an anwer.

While asking this question, I am thrown back to thinking about Sara von Treskow's presentation at CWS in Maryland many years ago. She presented a draft naming system that was very precise by identifying the floats, warp or weft, in order, as part of the naming convention. With the resulting name, you immediately knew a lot more about the structure construction without even seeing a draft.

The new weaver was seeking a simple answer to complete her sample sheet - but her question left me with more questions.



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