Re: Historical-possibly hysterical weaving tricks


Nann Miller
 

We estimate the length of the remaining warp, cut a warp yarn of that length, thread it from the back of the loom through the heddle and reed and thread it into the web for about an inch.  Then wind the remainder of that yarn onto an empty cone, slide a second empty cone of the same size over the top of the first.  This weights the yarn.  Then, and this is the important part: we take a long shoelace, drape it over the cones so it drags on the floor--thus preventing the untwisting/breaking.  I know it sounds unlikely, but it works--for any yarn I've ever tried, including singles.
Nann Miller


From: weavetech@groups.io <weavetech@groups.io> on behalf of Elizabeth Moncrief via groups.io <l.moncrief@...>
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2020 5:53 PM
To: weavetech@groups.io <weavetech@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [weavetech] Historical-possibly hysterical weaving tricks
 
Because I weave a lot of painted warps, I do just what Sara recommends...I wind 2-3 extra warp ends, paint the warp chain, wind it on and then pull those 2-3 ends off of the warp beam in equal measure to hang loose.  That way if you break a thread you have one right there to pick up AND it is in the same color sequence that you’re weaving.  Not doing so leaves you trying to find a replacement that is the same color but you’ll never be able to match the painted warp color-way. 
Having worked so well for me with painted warps, I do it for all warps now. 

Sent from Liz Moncrief,    www.aweaversway.com
Instagram address:   Moncriefliz 


On Aug 27, 2020, at 2:43 PM, Sara von Tresckow <sarav@...> wrote:



Professional weavers, at least those in Germany, never repair broken warp threads off the back on a weight. They repair a broken warp by placing a new extension warp as far back on the warp beam with a bow knot with a long tail that belongs to the broken end and enough new yarn to reach the weaving area. This can take some practice. Then the repair end is threaded and sleyed, pinned at the fell line.

When the knot comes close to the weaving area, if there is a long tail, as soon as the tail will reach the fell line plus a few inches, the knot is opened and the tail threaded and sleyed and pinned as before.

Another way to do this is to have a few exrtra warp ends hanging off the warp beam spaced across the warp. In case of a break, the closest is put through the cross at the least sticks and run through heddle and reed to the fell line. The broken warp will now unroll as you weave. When that broken warp end is long enough to reach the fell line, you can break the repair thread and replace it with the original warp – again, pinning at the fell line.

 

Sara von Tresckow, Fond du Lac, WI

sarav@...

Author of “When a Single Harness Simply Isn’t Enough”

http://www.woolgatherers.com Dutch Master Loom/Spinning Chairs/Öxabäck Looms, visit us in Fond du Lac or contact us about your weaving/spinning needs

 

From: weavetech@groups.io <weavetech@groups.io> On Behalf Of Lorelei Caracausa
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2020 4:17 PM
To: weavetech@groups.io
Subject: [weavetech] Historical-possibly hysterical weaving tricks

 

A question to all of you much more experienced weavers out there.

Historically, cloth was woven using singles.  Has anyone read period diaries or the such, where it was mentioned how the home weaver laid in a repair warp?  Are there any good references relating to this?  Or, for any of you, how have you handled a broken warp?

In my regular weaving , this isn't an issue as I merely hang a new thread off the back with a weight, then bring the original back when appropriate.   This is not an appropriate method with singles as they just un-twist and come apart.(.even with a stiff sizing, after a while)

Hints, please

 

On Wed, Aug 19, 2020, 7:36 AM Eileen Driscoll <efd2@...> wrote:

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