Re: sectional warping
Virginia, it is possible but the tedium of warping each section, includingtoggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Winding each bout
Tying off the cross and chokes
Attaching it to the sectional cords and inserting lease sticks
Winding on, while maintaining the cross and the appropriate tension
Securing the end of each bout with tape (which is what I use) and securing to the section with a pin or tape...
If you’re going to go thru all of those steps anyway, why not just do the whole warp and eliminate all of the individual steps
You would still load the warp on the back using your sectional cords because you’ve inserted a ‘counting thread’ to accommodate the number of threads per section,
Insert your lease sticks, move your heddles aside and weight your bouts off of the front of the loom. There are about 20 ways to do all of this of course, but I routinely put on B-to-F warps on my sectional beams with no issues at all. So long as you use constant and equal tension on all of the bouts (I use a full growler [water of course] and let them drag along on a carpeted floor with a growler for every 4 inches of warp) and then all that I have to do is wind the back beam without ever moving back and forth. It’s pretty standard B-to-F warping, and just ignore the sectional rakes or pegs. If you're winding the back beam, you're right there to catch anything that may hang up, but this wont happen if you have ‘constant and equal’ tension on everything.
As said, there are about 20 ways to do all of this, and you probably know half of them.
My only challenge question is why you would want to do this 20 to 30 times, or once for each section when you can eliminate all of the repetitive stuff and get it done in one shot.
You’ll get lots of responses on this one and all will likely be different. These are just my thoughts from the Hinterland. :+)
Sent from Liz Moncrief, www.aweaversway.com
Instagram address: Moncriefliz
On Jun 16, 2020, at 9:47 PM, Virginia Glenn via groups.io <vmatglenn@...> wrote: