Re: Shadow weave, Powell vs. Atwater

Erica de Ruiter <ederuiter@...>

Dear Augusta,
 Thank you for your addition to understanding Marian Powell's method of construction shadowweave.
I am intrigued by the Frisian "Gros de Tour" , combining sadowweave and rep weave. Could you explain some more?
Erica de Ruiter,
Malden, The Netherlands

Verstuurd vanaf mijn iPad

Op 24 jun. 2014 om 16:26 heeft "augusta uhlenbeck-textile@... [WeaveTech]" <WeaveTech@...> het volgende geschreven:


The oldest known Parallel treading method was described between - 1752 -1754, Digtenboekje, Netherlands- for this" color weave effect"  now known under the name "Shadow weave"

In those times woven on a pulley loom. (See alos Complex weaver June 2007 Cruzaad and cadrilles and the website 
Alexander Peddie, mentionned this loom still in 1814 " The Manufacturer Weaver Warpers Assistant. Glasgow, 1814. ( to download from the arizona etc. site.)

Mary Atwater (before the second World War probably . She did a lot of textile analyses in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.U.K. in the same period) published this technique  with a paralell  threading.
 The tie-up was  bases on  equal twills. 2/2,3/3,4,/4 etc. 
The threading  : is not straight but  :  a pick and the contra pick. (If here are 4 shafts up the next pick had to have the other 4 shafts down. 
This method is the most easy way for threading, to make  the tie-op  and  the treading simple "comme bonjour".

Shadow weave can be classified = is classified under the ' colored patterns =  effets factices / façonnés par la couleur = schijnpatronen, =farbeneffekte.  like the well know Pieds de poule,or pieds de Coq( bigger feeds then the poule =chicken)  Hound tooth, etc etc.but also sheep feets, les oreilles du lapin= the ears of the rabbit and what every you create and will. ) 
Nothing forbid you to use a block threading. with a tie-up  in blocs. The treading will be straight ( with a return if wishful or a return like Powell proposed.) I suppose that that is what is called the Powell method.?  To constructe   the tie up You had to know :You had to analyze / you had to figure ou which block is doing what.  It can be great help to discover for example "the ears of the rabbit". 

I have a little  problem  to understand why the writer of the article about the Marian Powell  method ( which is thus  a block method) mentioned this advice :

(...) "You often cannot see the pattern as you are weaving. Trust your treadling! The pattern will show up after the fabric is washed"

Will that say that she wove it in one color ?  or is it a slip of her pen? If you don't see the colored pattern during the weaving process , you will not seen after the washing process, But you can be sure  that there is a color full problem. 

P.S.  with more shafts you can even make  patterns in 2 color effects PLUS  a thrid efect  one , called in 1742 in the Frisian town  Leeuwarden   ' the Gros the Tour" the half of the warp rib.
 See the same website under the tittle" the High lights of the Gros de Tour. 

à +++ augusta UB

Le 23 juin 14 à 17:33, Marian Stubenitsky stubenitsky@... [WeaveTech] a écrit :


I also think that the parallel threadings are easier to understand and to design. I describe that method in my book, Weaving with Echo and Iris.


I think there is no visual difference.  I have always found the Powell threading easier to keep track of, but I believe that Marg Coe has found the Atwater threading useful for multishaft (16 or more) parallel threadings.  I believe Marg is in transit right now--on her way to CW.  Perhaps she'll chime in on this issue when she has a free moment or two.



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