Re: Thanks

William Koepp <bgkoe@...>

for their answers and comments to my post on
dobby looms. This has been and still is a real learning curve for me.
Take it slow-
You'll stop thinking in terms of tie ups as there are none in the classic sense; it's more like a 12 h direct tie up, one shaft per treadle, if you had 12 legs!
When I draw a design on graph paper, I use the graph blocks to represent the blocks, then when I get the design down I cut the graph paper in half vertically if it's a symmetrical design and thread a point draw where I want the design or designs to appear. I do the same with weaving software (an old Weavemaker One that creaks), I'll draw the design in the central field on the computer then use the treadling area for the pegging, print out the page and cut off everything except the "treadling" (if the threading is a point draw) and use that as a pegging guide. The nice thing is being able to take a dobby chain over to a well lit kitchen table, get comfortable and peg away!
Our loom lifts the pegged shafts, so to see the design as it's woven I know that only the spaces are the design part, as they will be the floats. I usually have to do 4 picks to make one float and 6 repeated floats to make one block of pattern, so 24 picks total for one block. This varies with the weft grist & the weave and whether you have figured half floats into the design. A design with thinnish lines is done sideways more easily. Just my opinion.
Have fun!

- Bill & Gaye Koepp in California
"Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler."
-- Albert Einstein

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