Topics

Buss Wiring

Greg Williams
 

I have just strung a 14 gauge DCC buss under the layout. The two wires are separated by about 6 inches at the closest. Do I need to re string the wires with a twist periodically? How close together should the twists be? What if I ran the wires close together, as in zip cord or speaker wire? I've read various things and am a little confused.


GregW66

Chris Richter
 

Mark Gurries has a great write-up.  I followed it to the letter and the results were excellent. I have cut & pasted a couple links to have a look at.  Place the end not in your drill in a strong vise - it works very well. I have merged 3 long lines of 12 GA red & black cable this way to twist them and have had no issues in making the "twisted pair" nor when installing (I pried apart the twist with a thin flat headed screwdriver to tap into the main bus to attach the sub bus using 3M Suitcase connectors). So far no problems with connectivity, etc.


Use a variable speed Drill on one end and a vice or a hook in a stud of some exposed wall on the other end.  Go slow, keep the cable stretched tight and over twist by 3x more than you need.  Why?   When you let go, it will unwind about that amount like a coiled spring.

https://sites.google.com/site/markgurries/home/dcc-general-best-practices/wiring-planing/snubbers-rc-filter


Why called an RC filter as opposed to a snubber or terminator.  https://sites.google.com/site/markgurries/home/dcc-general-best-practices/wiring-planing/snubbers-rc-filter/rc-filter-name-why



David Klemm
 

Greg,


Whether on my home layout, 12'x24', my club layout of 5000 square feet, or my Free-mo modules which are 2'x5', they all have the wires next to each other being pulled through the same holes.  


You are right, you will get see a lot of opinions from keep them apart, twist them, terminate them to it doesn't matter.   Since it works with all the above situations, not sure it really matters.  Don't waste your time worrying about it.  Wiring is a necessary evil to get to the fun part of driving a train.  No need to over think this piece or other pieces.  


David




From: WiringForDCC@... on behalf of gregw66@... [WiringForDCC]
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2017 8:16 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Buss Wiring
 
 

I have just strung a 14 gauge DCC buss under the layout. The two wires are separated by about 6 inches at the closest. Do I need to re string the wires with a twist periodically? How close together should the twists be? What if I ran the wires close together, as in zip cord or speaker wire? I've read various things and am a little confused.


GregW66

AD
 

The confusion in wiring is not running 2 wires together to power a layout but when you wire 33or 64 wires to power the same layout. One wire to each of 36 blocks and a common or two wires to each block and they go thru two digitrax bdl168 detection devices.  My hope is that the problem of bundling those wires does not exist when i use 4-bxp88’s instead. Does anyone have any problem twisting wires using the new device?

Tony 


On Nov 17, 2017, at 10:39 AM, DAVID KLEMM davidklemm7511@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:

 

Greg,


Whether on my home layout, 12'x24', my club layout of 5000 square feet, or my Free-mo modules which are 2'x5', they all have the wires next to each other being pulled through the same holes.  


You are right, you will get see a lot of opinions from keep them apart, twist them, terminate them to it doesn't matter.   Since it works with all the above situations, not sure it really matters.  Don't waste your time worrying about it.  Wiring is a necessary evil to get to the fun part of driving a train.  No need to over think this piece or other pieces.  


David




From: WiringForDCC@... <WiringForDCC@...> on behalf of gregw66@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...>
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2017 8:16 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Buss Wiring
 
 

I have just strung a 14 gauge DCC buss under the layout. The two wires are separated by about 6 inches at the closest. Do I need to re string the wires with a twist periodically? How close together should the twists be? What if I ran the wires close together, as in zip cord or speaker wire? I've read various things and am a little confused.


GregW66

dvollrath@...
 


The main bus feeder wires for DCC distribution should be run close together rather than two widely separated wires. Many will argue about the size of the wire and/or evidence that it works OK some other way. Best practice:
1. Select a wire size to reduce the overall voltage drop at rated booster current. This usually means 12-14 AWG. Obviously Scale and layout size dependent.   
2. Use twisted pair with 3-4 twists per foot. This reduces the effects of wiring inductance and radiated electrical interference to other circuits. It also requires them to be close together where 16 AWG 'zip cord' or speaker wire automatically does that. Fancy labeled speaker wire might be available in a larger gauge but will cost more that 12 AWG building wire.   
3. Add an R-C snubber/filter at the far end of each bus run away from the booster. 
4. Position the booster near the middle with bus runs out in 2 or more opposite directions rather than at one end. This minimizes the booster to load distance of the wiring.

DonV


---In WiringForDCC@..., <gregw66@...> wrote :

I have just strung a 14 gauge DCC buss under the layout. The two wires are separated by about 6 inches at the closest. Do I need to re string the wires with a twist periodically? How close together should the twists be? What if I ran the wires close together, as in zip cord or speaker wire? I've read various things and am a little confused.


GregW66

AD
 

What’s a r-c snubber filter?
After what lengths does one us it
Where do get it

Tony


On Nov 17, 2017, at 10:55 AM, dvollrath@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:

 


The main bus feeder wires for DCC distribution should be run close together rather than two widely separated wires. Many will argue about the size of the wire and/or evidence that it works OK some other way. Best practice:
1. Select a wire size to reduce the overall voltage drop at rated booster current. This usually means 12-14 AWG. Obviously Scale and layout size dependent.   
2. Use twisted pair with 3-4 twists per foot. This reduces the effects of wiring inductance and radiated electrical interference to other circuits. It also requires them to be close together where 16 AWG 'zip cord' or speaker wire automatically does that. Fancy labeled speaker wire might be available in a larger gauge but will cost more that 12 AWG building wire.   
3. Add an R-C snubber/filter at the far end of each bus run away from the booster. 
4. Position the booster near the middle with bus runs out in 2 or more opposite directions rather than at one end. This minimizes the booster to load distance of the wiring.

DonV


---In WiringForDCC@..., <gregw66@...> wrote :

I have just strung a 14 gauge DCC buss under the layout. The two wires are separated by about 6 inches at the closest. Do I need to re string the wires with a twist periodically? How close together should the twists be? What if I ran the wires close together, as in zip cord or speaker wire? I've read various things and am a little confused.


GregW66

David Klemm
 

Tony,


Googling r-c snubber filter gives you a description, picture and places to get it.


David




From: WiringForDCC@... on behalf of ANTHONY DALILEO bklyns_baseball_club@... [WiringForDCC]
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2017 9:59 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: Re: [WiringForDCC] Re: Buss Wiring
 
 

What’s a r-c snubber filter?

After what lengths does one us it
Where do get it

Tony


On Nov 17, 2017, at 10:55 AM, dvollrath@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:

 


The main bus feeder wires for DCC distribution should be run close together rather than two widely separated wires. Many will argue about the size of the wire and/or evidence that it works OK some other way. Best practice:
1. Select a wire size to reduce the overall voltage drop at rated booster current. This usually means 12-14 AWG. Obviously Scale and layout size dependent.   
2. Use twisted pair with 3-4 twists per foot. This reduces the effects of wiring inductance and radiated electrical interference to other circuits. It also requires them to be close together where 16 AWG 'zip cord' or speaker wire automatically does that. Fancy labeled speaker wire might be available in a larger gauge but will cost more that 12 AWG building wire.   
3. Add an R-C snubber/filter at the far end of each bus run away from the booster. 
4. Position the booster near the middle with bus runs out in 2 or more opposite directions rather than at one end. This minimizes the booster to load distance of the wiring.

DonV


---In WiringForDCC@..., <gregw66@...> wrote :

I have just strung a 14 gauge DCC buss under the layout. The two wires are separated by about 6 inches at the closest. Do I need to re string the wires with a twist periodically? How close together should the twists be? What if I ran the wires close together, as in zip cord or speaker wire? I've read various things and am a little confused.


GregW66

dvollrath@...
 


If your DCC bus runs are less than 35-40 ft away from the booster a snubber/filter is not really needed and nothing to worry about. For longer runs the suggested values are C = 0.1 uFD, 50-100 V, non-polarized (ceramic or paper-foil type) capacitor with a resistor of R = 100-150 Ohms, 1/2 Watt or larger rating. Wire both parts in series and then across the DCC bus. You can get parts like this from many electronic parts stores.

DonV  
 
---In WiringForDCC@..., <bklyns_baseball_club@...> wrote :

What’s a r-c snubber filter?
After what lengths does one us it
Where do get it

Tony


On Nov 17, 2017, at 10:55 AM, dvollrath@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:

 


The main bus feeder wires for DCC distribution should be run close together rather than two widely separated wires. Many will argue about the size of the wire and/or evidence that it works OK some other way. Best practice:
1. Select a wire size to reduce the overall voltage drop at rated booster current. This usually means 12-14 AWG. Obviously Scale and layout size dependent.   
2. Use twisted pair with 3-4 twists per foot. This reduces the effects of wiring inductance and radiated electrical interference to other circuits. It also requires them to be close together where 16 AWG 'zip cord' or speaker wire automatically does that. Fancy labeled speaker wire might be available in a larger gauge but will cost more that 12 AWG building wire.   
3. Add an R-C snubber/filter at the far end of each bus run away from the booster. 
4. Position the booster near the middle with bus runs out in 2 or more opposite directions rather than at one end. This minimizes the booster to load distance of the wiring.

DonV


---In WiringForDCC@..., <gregw66@...> wrote :

I have just strung a 14 gauge DCC buss under the layout. The two wires are separated by about 6 inches at the closest. Do I need to re string the wires with a twist periodically? How close together should the twists be? What if I ran the wires close together, as in zip cord or speaker wire? I've read various things and am a little confused.


GregW66

Blair & Rasa
 

Y'know, this is more than a yahoo group.  It's also the portal to a great website, www.wiringfordcc.com, where all this information is available.  We should be posting links, like:

http://wiringfordcc.com/dcc_waveforms.htm

Just a point of view.

Blair


On 2017-11-17 11:15, dvollrath@... [WiringForDCC] wrote:

If your DCC bus runs are less than 35-40 ft away from the booster a snubber/filter is not really needed and nothing to worry about. For longer runs the suggested values are C = 0.1 uFD, 50-100 V, non-polarized (ceramic or paper-foil type) capacitor with a resistor of R = 100-150 Ohms, 1/2 Watt or larger rating. Wire both parts in series and then across the DCC bus. You can get parts like this from many electronic parts stores.

DonV  
 
---In WiringForDCC@..., wrote :

What’s a r-c snubber filter?
After what lengths does one us it
Where do get it

Tony

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 17, 2017, at 10:55 AM, dvollrath@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:

 


The main bus feeder wires for DCC distribution should be run close together rather than two widely separated wires. Many will argue about the size of the wire and/or evidence that it works OK some other way. Best practice:
1. Select a wire size to reduce the overall voltage drop at rated booster current. This usually means 12-14 AWG. Obviously Scale and layout size dependent.   
2. Use twisted pair with 3-4 twists per foot. This reduces the effects of wiring inductance and radiated electrical interference to other circuits. It also requires them to be close together where 16 AWG 'zip cord' or speaker wire automatically does that. Fancy labeled speaker wire might be available in a larger gauge but will cost more that 12 AWG building wire.   
3. Add an R-C snubber/filter at the far end of each bus run away from the booster. 
4. Position the booster near the middle with bus runs out in 2 or more opposite directions rather than at one end. This minimizes the booster to load distance of the wiring.

DonV


---In WiringForDCC@..., <gregw66@...> wrote :

I have just strung a 14 gauge DCC buss under the layout. The two wires are separated by about 6 inches at the closest. Do I need to re string the wires with a twist periodically? How close together should the twists be? What if I ran the wires close together, as in zip cord or speaker wire? I've read various things and am a little confused.


GregW66


dvollrath@...
 

Yeah, I know Blair.  I don't want to scare folks away with all that detail if it is unnecessary and can be avoided... which is the usual case on smaller 'home' sized layouts. DCC is supposed to be simple, and it is for most folks.


DonV



---In WiringForDCC@..., <smithbr@...> wrote :

Y'know, this is more than a yahoo group.  It's also the portal to a great website, www.wiringfordcc.com, where all this information is available.  We should be posting links, like:

http://wiringfordcc.com/dcc_waveforms.htm

Just a point of view.

Blair


On 2017-11-17 11:15, dvollrath@... [WiringForDCC] wrote:

If your DCC bus runs are less than 35-40 ft away from the booster a snubber/filter is not really needed and nothing to worry about. For longer runs the suggested values are C = 0.1 uFD, 50-100 V, non-polarized (ceramic or paper-foil type) capacitor with a resistor of R = 100-150 Ohms, 1/2 Watt or larger rating. Wire both parts in series and then across the DCC bus. You can get parts like this from many electronic parts stores.

DonV  
 
---In WiringForDCC@..., <bklyns_baseball_club@...> wrote :

What’s a r-c snubber filter?
After what lengths does one us it
Where do get it

Tony

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 17, 2017, at 10:55 AM, dvollrath@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:

 


The main bus feeder wires for DCC distribution should be run close together rather than two widely separated wires. Many will argue about the size of the wire and/or evidence that it works OK some other way. Best practice:
1. Select a wire size to reduce the overall voltage drop at rated booster current. This usually means 12-14 AWG. Obviously Scale and layout size dependent.   
2. Use twisted pair with 3-4 twists per foot. This reduces the effects of wiring inductance and radiated electrical interference to other circuits. It also requires them to be close together where 16 AWG 'zip cord' or speaker wire automatically does that. Fancy labeled speaker wire might be available in a larger gauge but will cost more that 12 AWG building wire.   
3. Add an R-C snubber/filter at the far end of each bus run away from the booster. 
4. Position the booster near the middle with bus runs out in 2 or more opposite directions rather than at one end. This minimizes the booster to load distance of the wiring.

DonV


---In WiringForDCC@..., <gregw66@...> wrote :

I have just strung a 14 gauge DCC buss under the layout. The two wires are separated by about 6 inches at the closest. Do I need to re string the wires with a twist periodically? How close together should the twists be? What if I ran the wires close together, as in zip cord or speaker wire? I've read various things and am a little confused.


GregW66


Jerry Michels
 

3. Add an R-C snubber/filter at the far end of each bus run away from the booster. 

UNLESS you use current detection for signaling.  We installed over 30 of these, then tore them all out because they put a load on the system which is detected by the signaling system.

Jerry Michels
Amarillo Railroad Museum

Steve Haas
 



>>>>3. Add an R-C snubber/filter at the far end of each bus run away from the booster. <<<<

 

>>>> UNLESS you use current detection for signaling.  We installed over 30 of these, then tore them all out because they put a load on the system which is detected by the signaling system. <<<<

 

Whoa!

 

Properly installed R-C snubbers/filters should not have any impact on current detection signaling.   R-C snubbers/filters _will_ cause problems if they are installed between your detection device and the rails, but that’s not the right place to install them.

 

Your R-C Snubbers should work just fine if they are installed before the current detection occupancy device.  This has been discussed recently on one of the DCC lists, but I can’t find the reference at the moment. 

 

Booster>Circuit Breaker>Bus>R-C Filter>occupancy detector>local block bus.

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

Steve Haas

Snoqualmie, WA

 

Steve Haas
 

>>>>I have just strung a 14 gauge DCC buss under the layout. The two wires are separated by about 6 inches at the closest. Do I need to re string the wires with a twist periodically? How close together should the twists be? What if I ran the wires close together, as in zip cord or speaker wire? I've read various things and am a little confused.<<<<

As someone else has already responded, buss wires 6 inches apart will not cause you any digital signal problems.

However, like many things with DCC, as the size and complexity of the layout and it’s wiring grows,  it may be better to keep the wires together and twist them – three to five twists a foot is more than adequate.

It depends on the complexity of your layout and the wiring needed to achieve your DCC performance objectives.

Best regards,

Steve

Steve Haas

Snoqualmie, WA

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

GregW66




Steve Haas
 

 

>>>>Whether on my home layout, 12'x24', my club layout of 5000 square feet, or my Free-mo modules which are 2'x5', they all have the wires next to each other being pulled through the same holes.<<<<

 

Having worked on a large (28 x 42 foot) layout, I can tell you that one of the _LAST_ things you want to do is to route your bus wires (be they Booster, Circuit Breaker, or Block) through holes in the benchwork.   It takes extra time and effort to drill those holes, and (as happens far more often we care to admit) any time you have to do rework on your wiring, you’ll have to unsolder any track leads soldered to the buses before you can extract the wires back out of those holes.

 

The exception to this is modules, where they are moved often.  In that case, running the wiring through holes in the module benchworks will serve to protect the wiring from the higher probability of damage due to frequent movement.

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

Steve Haas

Snoqualmie, WA

 

David Klemm
 

Steve,

When we starting assembling the bench work for the 5000 square foot layout we had jugs in one area with people cutting and drilling.  Then the pieces were moved to areas to be assembled. So we overcame your time issue. It isn’t one and the bench work looks like the ribbings of a plane wing. 

David Klemm
8 Plus
_____________________________
From: Goatfisher2@... [WiringForDCC]
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2017 01:15
Subject: RE: [WiringForDCC] Buss Wiring
To:


 

 

>>>>Whether on my home layout, 12'x24', my club layout of 5000 square feet, or my Free-mo modules which are 2'x5', they all have the wires next to each other being pulled through the same holes.<<<<

 

Having worked on a large (28 x 42 foot) layout, I can tell you that one of the _LAST_ things you want to do is to route your bus wires (be they Booster, Circuit Breaker, or Block) through holes in the benchwork.   It takes extra time and effort to drill those holes, and (as happens far more often we care to admit) any time you have to do rework on your wiring, you’ll have to unsolder any track leads soldered to the buses before you can extract the wires back out of those holes.

 

The exception to this is modules, where they are moved often.  In that case, running the wiring through holes in the module benchworks will serve to protect the wiring from the higher probability of damage due to frequent movement.

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

Steve Haas

Snoqualmie, WA

 



Jerry Michels
 

Regarding the R-C Snubbers, the post said to install them at the end of the longest run of the buss.  If you do that, and use current detection, they will cause a false trigger.  How could they not since at the end of the longest run of the buss they are the last "thing" on the buss.  Or am I missing something?

Jerry Michels

Steve Haas
 

>>>Regarding the R-C Snubbers, the post said to install them at the end of the longest run of the buss.  If you do that, and use current detection, they will cause a false trigger.  How could they not since at the end of the longest run of the buss they are the last "thing" on the buss.  Or am I missing something?<<<

 

Jerry,

 

I think part of the problem is how each of us visualizes our DCC wiring topology.  Let’s add some visuals we can all look at and hopefully bring some clarity to this subject.

 

Point your browser here: http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track_2.htm#long_bus

 

Now scroll down to the topic heading: Block Wiring for Large Layouts (V2.0).  Let’s look at the graphic “Dedicated Local Bus”:

 

  1. First, note the bus running right to left across the bottom of the drawing; Twisted pair, runs to the far end of block 1, ends with an R-C filter.
  2. Now, let’s look at block 1 – track the wires from the rails down to the local buses where one of the local bus wires passes through the Block detector (in Mark’s drawings, a BD20, but it could be any detector.
  3. With nothing in block 1 the circuit for block 1 is open through that block’s BD20 – no current load in the block, no detection.
  4. Notice that the R-C filter on the end of the bus places no current load on the BD20’s for any block.
  5. If necessary, additional R-C filters can be installed across the main bus anywhere between the R-C Filter in the diagram and the booster at the other end.  Note that none of these additional R-C filters would trigger any of the BD20’s as they are always monitoring an open circuit . . .  . . unless there is equipment in the block, or you left your pliers or NMRA track gauge across the track .

 

Sorry for possibly breaking things down to a perhaps far too elementary level, but it’s a style that is useful to me to make sure I haven’t littered the discussion with glittering generalities.

 

Does this answer your questions?  If not, let me know and we’ll try it again!

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

Steve Haas

Snoqualmie, WA

 

Steve Haas
 

 

 

>>>>>When we starting assembling the bench work for the 5000 square foot layout we had jugs in one area with people cutting and drilling.  Then the pieces were moved to areas to be assembled

 

Hi David,

 

An interesting point.  Jigs and mass production are definitely the way to go for repetitive tasks such as this – they also serve to maintain a high level of quality. 

 

But . . . . . how many man hours were consumed fabricating those jigs and then drilling all those holes?  If a  large labor pool is available, , as your club apparently did,  and there’s nothing else that labor can be doing during this phase of construction then  the impacts on the overall project are small.  However, for a smaller organization, or an organization where getting folks to turn out for work sessions is difficult, or for the individual building a layout by himself of with the help of a few friends, those man hours might be a significant impact on the time line to completion.  All those hours spent fabricating the jigs and then drilling those hole could be spent on other aspects of layout construction.  That’s my first point . . . . proper allocation of scarce resources.

 

Beyond that,  we should take a look at the utility of all those holes as compared to other options for running wires.  It’s quicker and faster to run cables suspended just below the benchwork.  One doesn’t need to thread those wires through all those holes.  Cable hangers are more than sufficient.

 

However, my biggest reason for avoiding running wires through more holes than necessary, is the possibility of rework/redesign of a portion of the layout.  Before those wires through those holes need to be re-routed, any feeders attached to them will need to be clipped, the wires pulled back through the holes and then rerouted, and finally feeders re-attached.  If the wires don’t go through all those holes, the possibility exists that many of those feeders won’t need to be clipped and re-routed.  To be honest, how much this impacts any given layout depends on the wiring topography of the layout.  Long distribution runs won’t be impacted as much as area specific wiring such as individual block buses. 

 

Nonetheless, there’s still little if any benefit of going to the effort of drilling all those holes when wiring can be easily routed just below the benchwork.

 

>>>>>. So we overcame your time issue. It isn’t one and the bench work looks like the ribbings of a plane wing.<<<<<

 

If you have superfluous resources, time indeed won’t be an issue.

 

But, I have to ask,  who will be looking at all those beautiful airplane ribs once the scenery is covering it?  Probably only the electrical crew that has to clip those feeders, re-route those busses and re-connect all those feeders!

 

However,

 

It is your club’s layout, and they are free to use scarce resources as they see fit.

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

Steve Haas

Snoqualmie, WA

Wil Davis <wdavis5069@...>
 

I don't pretend to be an expert, but I have read everything on Alan
Gartner's and Mark Guries' web sites and have tried to apply what I
learned in wiring a large modular display as well as a friend's large
N-scale layout.  The module layout is about 70' x 90' that includes a
large U in the center.  I twisted all of the bus wires and we have about
320+ feet of mainline in each of two mainline tracks.  They are fed
through six boosters and over a dozen PSX breakers.   Each power
district is 40 to 60 ft at the max and is terminated in a "snubber."  We
do not use detection at the present time, and the bus wiring is 14 ga
MTW stranded wire with all track feeds connected with "Suitcase"
connectors.  We travel all over Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, Kentucky,
Tennessee and Pennsylvania.  We have been using most of these modules
for about 10 to six years (It took a few years to grow to our present
size) and we have not have any problems that can be attributed to wiring
issues.  We did have some flaky problems before we added the snubbers
and after that the problems went away.


I am also wiring a friend's N Scale 20 x 35 ft layout using the same
techniques with the difference in the number of boosters and PSX
breakers as it is single track with passing sidings.  The basic
difference is detection.  I have installed about two dozen BD20 current
detectors to show occupancy and although we are not operating yet, we
have been testing as we go and so far have not had problems with false
detection due to the BD20s.  The detected blocks are fairly short and
all are on sub buses, so that may be the reason as the short sub buses
are not terminated, just the main bus.

Like I said, I don't claim to be an expert, this is just my experience
to date.

Wil

Puckdropper
 

Some current detectors, like the RR Cir-kits BOD-8, have adjustable sensitivity.  I twisted the bus wires when running the new busses but didn't feel the need to install RC snubbers.  Setting up the BOD-8 was a process of adjusting the screw until the detection light came on and backing it off slowly until the light went out.  Go slow, there's a 2 second delay to prevent false clears.

Puckdropper


---In wiringfordcc@..., <gjmichels53@...> wrote :

Regarding the R-C Snubbers, the post said to install them at the end of the longest run of the buss.  If you do that, and use current detection, they will cause a false trigger.  How could they not since at the end of the longest run of the buss they are the last "thing" on the buss.  Or am I missing something?

Jerry Michels