Question about placement and wiring for auto reverser


 
Edited

Hi everyone,
 
I’ve placed an AR-1 auto reverser between Kato unitrack N scale lefthand and righthand crossovers, and I have used insulated rail joiners on either side to isolate the reversing loop created to the left. However, locomotives stall as they enter/exit a bridge on the outer track in either direction, and they also stall going from right to left as they approach a turnout for a siding on the outer track, just to the left of the insulated rail joiners. They don’t have a problem at all on the inner track. Any suggestions? 


 


Drew Aldridge
 

i have a very similar question. I don't see your track plan, wondering how similar it is to mine.


wirefordcc
 

Hi Drew,

I looked at your track plan.  You have a reverse section caused by your crossovers.  For reverse sections due to crossovers, see my website at:

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track_2.htm#a43

Allan Gartner
Wiring for DCC


Don Vollrath
 

Allan points out that the crossovers between tracks is causing the issue. The answer is to wire your dual mainline tracks to have the same polarity so that crossovers do not cause polarity problems. The 2nd half of the answer is to make the turnaround loop tracks at each end of the layout the AR sections . See the “folded dog bone” descriptions on Allan’s site. Putting the AR sections at the ends yields the fewest problems elsewhere.


DonV


Chuck Jorgenson
 

I’ve some how put my bcc power cab into some type of sleep mode, the screen is blank , how can I wake this thing up?
Chuck

On Feb 6, 2021, at 10:17 AM, Don Vollrath <donevol43@hotmail.com> wrote:

Allan points out that the crossovers between tracks is causing the issue. The answer is to wire your dual mainline tracks to have the same polarity so that crossovers do not cause polarity problems. The 2nd half of the answer is to make the turnaround loop tracks at each end of the layout the AR sections . See the “folded dog bone” descriptions on Allan’s site. Putting the AR sections at the ends yields the fewest problems elsewhere.


DonV




Jim Betz
 

Chuck,
  Are you sure you have the powercab plugged into the correct port of the
power cab panel?  Are you sure it is properly/fully plugged in on both
ends of the cable.  Are you certain the power plug is fully plugged into
the port on the PCP?
                                                                    - Jim


Chuck Jorgenson
 

Check all its like I’m getting 0 power


On Feb 8, 2021, at 10:08 AM, Jim Betz <jimbetz@...> wrote:

Chuck,
  Are you sure you have the powercab plugged into the correct port of the
power cab panel?  Are you sure it is properly/fully plugged in on both
ends of the cable.  Are you certain the power plug is fully plugged into
the port on the PCP?
                                                                    - Jim


Jim Betz
 

Chuck,
  Leave the wall wart for the PowerCab plugged into the 110.  Pull it
out of the powercabpanel and measure the DC voltage from the inside
of the barrel to the outside.  If that is zero you have some sort of 
problem with the power supply - if not you need to check the rest
of the connections - everywhere, one at a time, working from the
power supply plug towards the PowerCab itself.
  Unplug each 'leg' and check power as you go.  Do NOT attempt to
measure the output of the powercabpanel by sticking the meter
probes into the plug - find and use the contacts on the backside of
the plug (it is far too easy to cause the feelers to misalign if you push
meter probes into it).
  Look inside the PCP plug socket - where the PowerCab is plugged
into it and check if the feelers are all straight and not touching each
other and parallel to each other. 

  There are ways that either the PCP or the PowerCab itself can have
a broken solder joint "inside" of them.  I'm not the guy to tell you if/how
to fix those your self.
                                                                        - Jim


Drew Aldridge
 

I compared what I had done, and confirmed I did it the same way you suggested, using the switch area as the reverse section. I did this, because as my layout plan shows, i have a second loop on the outside that the switches connect to. Thank you for your website, this helped alot. It helped confirm correct wiring and led me to the switches being my shorting problem.

Unfortunately the thread topic has been changed to something completely unrelated now. I hope that Art, the original poster's question was answered with the direction to your website, as easily as mine.


Bill Ervin
 

I got it and works fine now. Thanks for your help!
--
W.J. Ervin