Topics

Rail joiners & PECO

Jennifer Lobo
 

I agree Scott. I use Peco Streamline code 100 track and rail joiners. Too tight is way better than too loose. I use a pair of long nosed pliers to push them on. I too file the ends...especially the inside of the rail where the burr stops the joiner from going on. I also squeeze the rail joiners twice with side cutters between the centre and the ends to make them even tighter.

The rule of thumb is:  Buy plenty of joiners as there will be wastage.

Regards Geoff Clarke OO gauge in Canada


On Tuesday, May 21, 2019, 8:06:35 p.m. EDT, Scott <scottmac99@...> wrote:


I've been wrestling with Peco OO joiners, but I would much rather they were too tight than too loose.  I file the ends of the rails where I cut them (best way to check if any burrs is to gently run your fingertip over the ends).  Then I use really solid gloves before pushing the two sections of track together.  [At my age, if I don't wear gloves for almost any sort of task, then I can usually virtually guarantee that I'll rip some sort of hole in my finger.]

Scott
 
Edited

I've been wrestling with Peco OO joiners, but I would much rather they were too tight than too loose.  I file the ends of the rails where I cut them (best way to check if any burrs is to gently run your fingertip over the ends).  Then I use really solid gloves before pushing/wiggling the two sections of track together.  [At my age, if I don't wear gloves for almost any sort of task, then I can usually virtually guarantee that I'll rip some sort of hole in my finger.]

Carl
 

Hi Gang:


I used O-Gauge Gargraves track. It comes with rectangular pins, but where I wanted insulated pins only round Lionel plastic pins were available. I found a finishing nail that was just the right size to open up the Gargraves rail to accept the plastic pin. This worked fine.


So it might be possible to find a small finishing nail that would open up the PECO joiners so they slip on with less force. Removing the burrs on the rail is also a great idea! I would also look at making a hand tool from a bit of rail to hold the joiner when you need to push it on a rail. Anything to keep your fingers away from the metal edges.


Best wishes, Carl.

On 5/1/2019 10:06 PM, george hohon3 wrote:
With a minor amount of filing on the rail, just enough to remove any burrs, joiners slip into place without any force or cut finger tips.

LG


From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> on behalf of PennsyNut <pennsynut@...>
Sent: Wednesday, May 1, 2019 6:07 PM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Rail joiners & PECO
 
I appreciate all the advice. I'm not quite clear on that photo and how it works. I do have a home-made tool: 6" piece of rail, bent up about half the length of a joiner. And a wire nut on the top. Easier to hold than just a rail with joiner. The rail end to hold the joiner is nicely filed, smooth, etc. And it helps some. But the problem is that the joiner is just too tight. And even with tools to help reduce the cutting of fingers and splitting of finger nails, those joiners are not right. The trick is that the joiner must be tight enough to not slip off. What I find really silly is when I do get a joiner on, and have to take it off. The next time, is just as difficult to get on. Also, I like to be able to have my turnouts totally removable. Slide the joiner off the turnout completely on the adjoining rail. Lift the turnout right out. Put the repaired one or a new one right back in place. Slide those joiners back onto the turnout and done. No muss, no fuss, no mess, simple. I use the Insulfrogs with no wires at all. But with these PECO joiners, I can't do that. For one thing, the joiner is too long. The joiner is ideal for connecting two pieces of flex. And because it's so tight, probably will conduct electricity better than a loose joiner. You can still solder joints if you wish. There is another type of joiner that looks like tie plates, and is in two pieces, but those are expensive. Might be better, but this hobby is expensive enough. And what strikes me is that PECO produces a fine product, turnouts are superb. Why are their joiners so tight.
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC

Virus-free. www.avast.com

george hohon3
 

With a minor amount of filing on the rail, just enough to remove any burrs, joiners slip into place without any force or cut finger tips.

LG


From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> on behalf of PennsyNut <pennsynut@...>
Sent: Wednesday, May 1, 2019 6:07 PM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Rail joiners & PECO
 
I appreciate all the advice. I'm not quite clear on that photo and how it works. I do have a home-made tool: 6" piece of rail, bent up about half the length of a joiner. And a wire nut on the top. Easier to hold than just a rail with joiner. The rail end to hold the joiner is nicely filed, smooth, etc. And it helps some. But the problem is that the joiner is just too tight. And even with tools to help reduce the cutting of fingers and splitting of finger nails, those joiners are not right. The trick is that the joiner must be tight enough to not slip off. What I find really silly is when I do get a joiner on, and have to take it off. The next time, is just as difficult to get on. Also, I like to be able to have my turnouts totally removable. Slide the joiner off the turnout completely on the adjoining rail. Lift the turnout right out. Put the repaired one or a new one right back in place. Slide those joiners back onto the turnout and done. No muss, no fuss, no mess, simple. I use the Insulfrogs with no wires at all. But with these PECO joiners, I can't do that. For one thing, the joiner is too long. The joiner is ideal for connecting two pieces of flex. And because it's so tight, probably will conduct electricity better than a loose joiner. You can still solder joints if you wish. There is another type of joiner that looks like tie plates, and is in two pieces, but those are expensive. Might be better, but this hobby is expensive enough. And what strikes me is that PECO produces a fine product, turnouts are superb. Why are their joiners so tight.
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC

PennsyNut
 

I appreciate all the advice. I'm not quite clear on that photo and how it works. I do have a home-made tool: 6" piece of rail, bent up about half the length of a joiner. And a wire nut on the top. Easier to hold than just a rail with joiner. The rail end to hold the joiner is nicely filed, smooth, etc. And it helps some. But the problem is that the joiner is just too tight. And even with tools to help reduce the cutting of fingers and splitting of finger nails, those joiners are not right. The trick is that the joiner must be tight enough to not slip off. What I find really silly is when I do get a joiner on, and have to take it off. The next time, is just as difficult to get on. Also, I like to be able to have my turnouts totally removable. Slide the joiner off the turnout completely on the adjoining rail. Lift the turnout right out. Put the repaired one or a new one right back in place. Slide those joiners back onto the turnout and done. No muss, no fuss, no mess, simple. I use the Insulfrogs with no wires at all. But with these PECO joiners, I can't do that. For one thing, the joiner is too long. The joiner is ideal for connecting two pieces of flex. And because it's so tight, probably will conduct electricity better than a loose joiner. You can still solder joints if you wish. There is another type of joiner that looks like tie plates, and is in two pieces, but those are expensive. Might be better, but this hobby is expensive enough. And what strikes me is that PECO produces a fine product, turnouts are superb. Why are their joiners so tight.
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC

Doug Wagner
 

Might take a gander at this link to see if it might help

https://modelrailwayengineer.com/sunday-scribbles-easy-way-fitting-rail-joiners/

Doug Wagner
Bakersfield, California

In a message dated 05/01/19 11:25:20 Pacific Standard Time, macionis@... writes:

I sympathize, and have multiple finger tip scars from those nasty joiners.  Using small pliers designed for this very task will avoid the blood.  But those joiners are too tight!  I have given up using them (except on code 70 track) and now use Atlas universal joiners.  Yes, they’re much bigger, and loose, but they go on easily, and I solder all joints and paint the rails so they look ok.
Bob

From: PennsyNut
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2019 11:11 AM
Subject: [w4dccqa] Rail joiners & PECO

I have a problem with my track. I have PECO code 83 flex, Insulfrog turnouts and code 83 joiners. The joiners are giving me headaches. Not to forget split nails, cut finger tips, etc. I even try putting a joiner on a spare piece of rail to then put onto the track. But those joiners are way too tight. Filing the rails, top, bottom and top of the base - very lightly, just enough to smooth and remove any burrs. Can't seem to figure out how to spread the end of the joiner a bit, just to get it started. The darn things just don't like me. LOL Positive help requested and appreciated.
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC

Ron Still
 

Bob, I did exactly what you did. I’m on a blood thinner and every time I would poke myself there was blood everywhere!! Don’t know why they make them so tight.

Tom Anderson
 

          I got one of those and it was totally worthless.

 

          Just my .02

 

 

Tom Anderson

 

Business Information Systems, Inc.

P.O. Box 160396

Boiling Springs, SC  29316

 

(864) 621-8607

 

From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> On Behalf Of Kurt Konrath via Groups.Io
Sent: Wednesday, May 1, 2019 3:41 PM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Rail joiners & PECO

 

Atlas Model RR co sells a tool specifically for putting on rail joiners.  Cat 150-401.  Many places to get it from. 

 

Three sided tool for code 100, 83 and I forget the other one. 

 

Designed to allow you slip joiner on tool point and it opens slightly and gives you a way to push on rail without fingers in the way of sharp items!

 

Kurt


On May 1, 2019, at 11:05 AM, Bob Macionis <macionis@...> wrote:

I sympathize, and have multiple finger tip scars from those nasty joiners.  Using small pliers designed for this very task will avoid the blood.  But those joiners are too tight!  I have given up using them (except on code 70 track) and now use Atlas universal joiners.  Yes, they’re much bigger, and loose, but they go on easily, and I solder all joints and paint the rails so they look ok.

Bob

 

From: PennsyNut

Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2019 11:11 AM

Subject: [w4dccqa] Rail joiners & PECO

 

I have a problem with my track. I have PECO code 83 flex, Insulfrog turnouts and code 83 joiners. The joiners are giving me headaches. Not to forget split nails, cut finger tips, etc. I even try putting a joiner on a spare piece of rail to then put onto the track. But those joiners are way too tight. Filing the rails, top, bottom and top of the base - very lightly, just enough to smooth and remove any burrs. Can't seem to figure out how to spread the end of the joiner a bit, just to get it started. The darn things just don't like me. LOL Positive help requested and appreciated.
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC


ExchangeDefender Message Security: Check Authenticity

John Johnston <towboatjohnston@...>
 

I replied via regular email but photo got stripped out, so I uploaded another photo to the web site.  I can't figure out how to attach it to this email, but it's on the site if you want to look

John Johnston <towboatjohnston@...>
 

I had the same trouble in N with PECO code 55. I slid a joiner all the way onto a 1-inch piece of track, leaving just enough track exposed to accept a new joiner half way on. I locked the whole thing into a singe section of a connector block. (See photo). Works great and allows me to use PECO joiners, which are MUCH better than any other N-scale joiners I have seen. 



John Johnston
(713) 240-1687
Sent from iPhone via gmail

On May 1, 2019, at 3:40 PM, Kurt Konrath via Groups.Io <kurt.konrath@...> wrote:

Atlas Model RR co sells a tool specifically for putting on rail joiners.  Cat 150-401.  Many places to get it from. 

Three sided tool for code 100, 83 and I forget the other one. 

Designed to allow you slip joiner on tool point and it opens slightly and gives you a way to push on rail without fingers in the way of sharp items!

Kurt


On May 1, 2019, at 11:05 AM, Bob Macionis <macionis@...> wrote:

I sympathize, and have multiple finger tip scars from those nasty joiners.  Using small pliers designed for this very task will avoid the blood.  But those joiners are too tight!  I have given up using them (except on code 70 track) and now use Atlas universal joiners.  Yes, they’re much bigger, and loose, but they go on easily, and I solder all joints and paint the rails so they look ok.
Bob
 
From: PennsyNut
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2019 11:11 AM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: [w4dccqa] Rail joiners & PECO
 
I have a problem with my track. I have PECO code 83 flex, Insulfrog turnouts and code 83 joiners. The joiners are giving me headaches. Not to forget split nails, cut finger tips, etc. I even try putting a joiner on a spare piece of rail to then put onto the track. But those joiners are way too tight. Filing the rails, top, bottom and top of the base - very lightly, just enough to smooth and remove any burrs. Can't seem to figure out how to spread the end of the joiner a bit, just to get it started. The darn things just don't like me. LOL Positive help requested and appreciated.
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC

Kurt Konrath
 

Atlas Model RR co sells a tool specifically for putting on rail joiners.  Cat 150-401.  Many places to get it from. 

Three sided tool for code 100, 83 and I forget the other one. 

Designed to allow you slip joiner on tool point and it opens slightly and gives you a way to push on rail without fingers in the way of sharp items!

Kurt


On May 1, 2019, at 11:05 AM, Bob Macionis <macionis@...> wrote:

I sympathize, and have multiple finger tip scars from those nasty joiners.  Using small pliers designed for this very task will avoid the blood.  But those joiners are too tight!  I have given up using them (except on code 70 track) and now use Atlas universal joiners.  Yes, they’re much bigger, and loose, but they go on easily, and I solder all joints and paint the rails so they look ok.
Bob
 
From: PennsyNut
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2019 11:11 AM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: [w4dccqa] Rail joiners & PECO
 
I have a problem with my track. I have PECO code 83 flex, Insulfrog turnouts and code 83 joiners. The joiners are giving me headaches. Not to forget split nails, cut finger tips, etc. I even try putting a joiner on a spare piece of rail to then put onto the track. But those joiners are way too tight. Filing the rails, top, bottom and top of the base - very lightly, just enough to smooth and remove any burrs. Can't seem to figure out how to spread the end of the joiner a bit, just to get it started. The darn things just don't like me. LOL Positive help requested and appreciated.
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC

Bob Macionis
 

I sympathize, and have multiple finger tip scars from those nasty joiners.  Using small pliers designed for this very task will avoid the blood.  But those joiners are too tight!  I have given up using them (except on code 70 track) and now use Atlas universal joiners.  Yes, they’re much bigger, and loose, but they go on easily, and I solder all joints and paint the rails so they look ok.
Bob
 

From: PennsyNut
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2019 11:11 AM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: [w4dccqa] Rail joiners & PECO
 
I have a problem with my track. I have PECO code 83 flex, Insulfrog turnouts and code 83 joiners. The joiners are giving me headaches. Not to forget split nails, cut finger tips, etc. I even try putting a joiner on a spare piece of rail to then put onto the track. But those joiners are way too tight. Filing the rails, top, bottom and top of the base - very lightly, just enough to smooth and remove any burrs. Can't seem to figure out how to spread the end of the joiner a bit, just to get it started. The darn things just don't like me. LOL Positive help requested and appreciated.
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC

PennsyNut
 

I have a problem with my track. I have PECO code 83 flex, Insulfrog turnouts and code 83 joiners. The joiners are giving me headaches. Not to forget split nails, cut finger tips, etc. I even try putting a joiner on a spare piece of rail to then put onto the track. But those joiners are way too tight. Filing the rails, top, bottom and top of the base - very lightly, just enough to smooth and remove any burrs. Can't seem to figure out how to spread the end of the joiner a bit, just to get it started. The darn things just don't like me. LOL Positive help requested and appreciated.
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC