Cleaners & Lubricants
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PennsyNut <pennsynut@...>
In other posts & forums, I had participated in discussions involving this subject. And although not directly related to newbies/nocices, is of importance to modelers. Radio Shack may be hard to locate brick & mortar, but is still in business. ONLINE. I have no personal attachment to them. Just to let y'all know I received an email today and here's their web page: https://www.radioshack.com/collections/cleaners-and-chemicals?utm_campaign=2019-02-16%20Cleaners%20%26%20Lubricant%20BACK%20IN%20STOCK%20%28Hd9ZvS%29&utm_medium=email&utm_source=E-08&_ke=eyJrbF9lbWFpbCI6ICJwZW5uc3ludXRAZ21haWwuY29tIiwgImtsX2NvbXBhbnlfaWQiOiAiSktjZWVUIn0%3D
So, for those of you that are interested, check it out. And if moderators permit, I'd like to see comments from users of any of these. Specifically for cleaning or lubricating track or other model railroad uses. And which product works best for which application. Thank YOU! Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC
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Jay <jayfmn@...>
Hi!
On my DCC N Scale layout, I used CRC 2-26 for my rails. It was amazing, after 3 applications, all the dirt was sucked out of the track. I have not had to clean my track in over 2 years. My layout is in a dusty basement with a 70' mainline. It made my life so much easier not having to clean the track every month! Jay
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Brad Bunnin <bradbunnin@...>
How do you apply the CRC 2-26, Jay? Do you spray it on directly, or do you spray it on a rag and use the rag to apply it? Or is there another method?
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Brad
On Feb 16, 2019, at 11:01 AM, Jay <jayfmn@q.com> wrote: Hi! On my DCC N Scale layout, I used CRC 2-26 for my rails. It was amazing, after 3 applications, all the dirt was sucked out of the track. I have not had to clean my track in over 2 years. My layout is in a dusty basement with a 70' mainline. It made my life so much easier not having to clean the track every month! Jay
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Jay <jayfmn@...>
Hi Brad!
I actually repurposed my Tidy Track Track Cleaner kit. Using the Gray pad set, I wetted the soft pad with the CRC. Then cleaned the track like normal It did take a bit to get my track clean. If the Tidy Track is not locally available, you might try Ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Woodland-Scenics-TT4550-Tidy-Track-Rail-Tracker-Cleaning-Kit/392186580262?hash=item5b50244d26:g:UpMAAOSwy2pcBs32:sc:USPSPriority!51104!US!-1:rk:14:pf:0 Replacement pads: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Woodland-Scenics-Tidy-Track-Replacement-Cleaning-and-Finishing-Pads-TT4553/173796463720?epid=13012071509&hash=item2877139468:g:~RoAAOSwHYpZ~g2L:rk:27:pf:0 Trying so many different track cleaning methods, it was tough to clean, but worth it. It took me about a month & 5 applications. But since then, no track issues. Like I said 2 years ago I did this, zero track cleaning since then. Jay
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Alex Hempel <rainynight65@...>
Hi Jay,
just making sure because I live on a different continent: is this the CRC2-26 you're talking about? https://www.repco.com.au/en/brands/crc/crc-2-26-electrical-spray-400g/p/A3698939 Cheers Alex
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Jay <jayfmn@...>
Hi Alex,
I am not sure. The CRC 2-26 here in the states is "Plastic Compatible" I am not sure yours is, I would check for that because it could damage the ties in the track. Amazon has it here: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Plastic-Multi-Purpose-Precision-Lubricant/dp/B07GBD9GZ7. Jay
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Alex Hempel <rainynight65@...>
Yeah, gotta be careful. The stuff I linked does not specifically state that it is plastic safe, so I'll probably refrain from using it until I know more.
Thanks Alex
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Don Vollrath
I agree. CRC 2-26 is listed first as a lubricant tnen as a cleaner. Putting on the track will help remove unwanted residue, But... it will also act as a lubricant which will reduce the friction and therefore the pulling power of locos. Works great for other sliding type electrical connections.
DonV
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It also makes a good glue. I have a friend with a 30-year old layout. 90% of his switches are Atlas Custom Line with the attached switch machine. I like to call him quick draw. It seems he always a can of CRC in his hand and uses it liberally. On one visit he asked me about a stuck switch.He admits to spraying CRC into the slot on top of the switch machine. "It worked three times. Now it will not move, even by hand." I gave him a tube of lock graphite. Glenn
-----Original Message-----
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Jay <jayfmn@...>
Hi!
Spraying the CRC directly onto the track is not a recommended practice. It is best applied in a thin layer on the track. Then let it dry. There are 3% grades on my layout & I have no slippage issues when I run 25 unit trains. Jay
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Don Vollrath
Any body want to comment on using Aero-Car ACT-6006 Track & Rail Cleaner? Good or Bad?
DonV
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scott toro
Are use the truck cleaning cart does a pretty good job I’m happy with it so far but I need to come up with another option on cleaning the truck as a second option but the first one works pretty well
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On Tuesday, February 19, 2019, 10:34 AM, Don Vollrath <donevol43@...> wrote:
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Sorry guys for got to put my name on my Goo-Gone post
John White
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I have a couple of the old AHM track cleaning cars that I use. I have been using Goo-Gone with these for several years. It has worked well for me, How often do I run my cleaner cars, no specific time frame, only when I notice sketchy performance or just feel the need to clean my track. It also cleans the wheel pretty well too. As for the engines specifically, I use the paper towel laid on the rail with Goo-Gone and run my engine on it to clean the wheels. All of this works pretty well. Now, if I feel a certain spot is acting up, I will take a small piece of Styrofoam and slightly wet it with G-G and rub it on the track and it cleans very well, as the Styrofoam comes out very very nasty. None of this leaves any slick spots to interfere with traction. My two cents.
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John Johnston <towboatjohnston@...>
My two cents comes with a caveat – choice of cleaning solutions may vary with the kind of dirt. I am still actively building in N code 55, so I end up with a lot of rosin flux and sawdust on my tracks. I also have a lot of plastic wheels that wear and deposit residue on the rails. Plaster, scenery and ballast may change my thinking. I also run long coal drags up heavy grades, so traction is critical.
To date, I have found that Bright Boy type abrasives are rough on the track, clog up, and tend to transfer the problem along the track. Masonite pads under a box car are ok for keeping dust off of track that is already clean. But they don’t do much for flux or plastic goo. My current answer is a brass CMX cleaner car with isopropyl alcohol, which does a great job of removing flux, glue, plastic residue and oxides. The downside is that alcohols (and other active solvents like ketones) may leave the track susceptible to faster oxidation after cleaning. It hasn’t been a problem to me, because I’m otherwise so messy that I have to clean frequently. I hope eventually to do less soldering, and replace my plastic car wheels with metal. That should let me settle into a longer maintenance cycle using the same CMX cleaner, but with odorless mineral spirits (branched aliphatics) with low odor, low toxicity, and no lubricating effects.
From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> On Behalf Of John White
I have a couple of the old AHM track cleaning cars that I use. I have been using Goo-Gone with these for several years. It has worked well for me, How often do I run my cleaner cars, no specific time frame, only when I notice sketchy performance or just feel the need to clean my track. It also cleans the wheel pretty well too. As for the engines specifically, I use the paper towel laid on the rail with Goo-Gone and run my engine on it to clean the wheels. All of this works pretty well. Now, if I feel a certain spot is acting up, I will take a small piece of Styrofoam and slightly wet it with G-G and rub it on the track and it cleans very well, as the Styrofoam comes out very very nasty. None of this leaves any slick spots to interfere with traction. My two cents.
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Scott Kremer
i have found that the main problem is dust, even in a basement with finished floors and ceiling. I was lucky enough to get one of the Korean Brass vacuum cars. It is amazing. Absolutely incredible how much dust it picks up even in one day. I now use it and pull a CMX cleaner with mineral spirits in it. I changed from isopropyl alcohol to mineral spirits after reading about polar and non polar materials and the experience of the La Mesa Club. The two cars seem to remove everything and leave the track clean and dry. It takes about 25 minutes for me to clean the majority of the track this way and it seems to stay clean for a good period of time. if I need a quick turn around I just run the vacuum. When done I have absolutely no problems with track pick up. The layout scenery is done and I run metal wheels on everything. After years of trying various fluids for cleaning and coating track I now have a method that seems to work perfectly.
Scott Kremer
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John Johnston <towboatjohnston@...>
Good points. Something else I should have mentioned. FLAMMABILITY.
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Regular isopropyl alcohol that you buy at the drug store is 91% alcohol, 9% water (both of which are highly polar.) The water is there because it is expensive to remove, but a side benefit is that it reduces flammability. Denatured ethyl alcohol, and higher purity isopropyl alcohol, are more flammable (and still polar), as are MEK and many other ketones & esters. Lacquer thinner is usually a mix of non-polar hydrocarbon solvents and polar solvents like MEK. Mineral spirits come in several grades, depending on flash point (flammability) and composition. Some contain aromatics (mostly toluene and xylene), which raise the flash point (higher = less flammable) and increase solvency (good up to a point), but also increase odor and toxicity. Odorless Mineral Spirits are normally composed of branched aliphatics instead of ring compounds. They have lower odor, lower toxicity, reasonably high flashpoints, and good solvency. One small downside is that they take a little longer to evaporate. You don't want to park a CMX car and let it drip, especially in a confined space. ALL of these solvents will burn under the right conditions. Flashpoint tests are essentially a puddle in a closed space with a spark. Not a test you want to conduct under your layout. No need to be afraid of them, but use safe practices including GOOD VENTILATION AND DRIP/SPILL CONTROL. John J
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From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> On Behalf Of Scott Kremer Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2019 4:22 PM To: w4dccqa@groups.io Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Cleaners & Lubricants i have found that the main problem is dust, even in a basement with finished floors and ceiling. I was lucky enough to get one of the Korean Brass vacuum cars. It is amazing. Absolutely incredible how much dust it picks up even in one day. I now use it and pull a CMX cleaner with mineral spirits in it. I changed from isopropyl alcohol to mineral spirits after reading about polar and non polar materials and the experience of the La Mesa Club. The two cars seem to remove everything and leave the track clean and dry. It takes about 25 minutes for me to clean the majority of the track this way and it seems to stay clean for a good period of time. if I need a quick turn around I just run the vacuum. When done I have absolutely no problems with track pick up. The layout scenery is done and I run metal wheels on everything. After years of trying various fluids for cleaning and coating track I now have a method that seems to work perfectly. Scott Kremer
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emrldsky
How about more details about the vacuum car?
Peace, Mike G.
On 2/20/2019 2:21 PM, Scott Kremer
wrote:
i have found that the main problem is dust, even in a basement with finished floors and ceiling. I was lucky enough to get one of the Korean Brass vacuum cars. It is amazing. Absolutely incredible how much dust it picks up even in one day. I now use it and pull a CMX cleaner with mineral spirits in it. I changed from isopropyl alcohol to mineral spirits after reading about polar and non polar materials and the experience of the La Mesa Club. The two cars seem to remove everything and leave the track clean and dry. It takes about 25 minutes for me to clean the majority of the track this way and it seems to stay clean for a good period of time. if I need a quick turn around I just run the vacuum. When done I have absolutely no problems with track pick up. The layout scenery is done and I run metal wheels on everything. After years of trying various fluids for cleaning and coating track I now have a method that seems to work perfectly. Scott Kremer .
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Mark Cartwright <marcdecapri@...>
Ah Duh Me?
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No-ox-id A type grease continues to work very well for me. After
application I remove all that I can with a Masonite type board. What is left does not attract dust and largely prevents the black crud from forming. I only do touch up cleaning on occasion. s This is done in combination with scrubbing all the contacting surfaces of my locomotives with a fiberglass contact cleaner which in this case was sold by Badger. I then treat the surfaces in the same way I treat the track. I clean my wheels by chucking them into my DeWalt (lightly) and running at high speed while gently applying the aforementioned Badger contact cleaner. I also clean the needle point on the wheels in this way. The brass axle holders in the trucks have the axle sockets cleaned with a toothpick in a drill at high speed and a little polishing compound. The polishing compound is then cleaned with solvent. As a result I can do switching operations with at most a couple of stalls and this is in N Scale with engines as small as the Kato NW2. BTW I use a single engine on the switch job. Best Regards, Ken Harstine
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