Topics

Plder Lifelike to DCC

emrldsky
 

I have an older Lifelike / Proto 2000  E-8a in MKT red livery and is DC. It is full of a large weight and has a circuit board in it. The front headlight hooks up to the circuit board. Not much room for a decoder. Is there a prodedure documented somewhere? Any suggestions?

 

Thanks,

Mike G.

 

Ross Kudlick
 

Mike,

 

Does this example from the TCS web site help you?

 

http://tinyurl.com/njxzpt6

 

Ross

 


From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of azMikeG@...
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2013 7:47 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Plder Lifelike to DCC

 




I have an older Lifelike / Proto 2000  E-8a in MKT red livery and is DC. It is full of a large weight and has a circuit board in it. The front headlight hooks up to the circuit board. Not much room for a decoder. Is there a prodedure documented somewhere? Any suggestions?

 

Thanks,

Mike G.

Arthur F. Rounds <arounds@...>
 

Hello Mike G.,

The alloy that is used to make the weight(s) in most locomotives is relatively soft. I grind out the space I need for a decoder and speaker using a miniature, bench top, MicroMark drill press with an X-Y table. After adding a 1/4", flat head carbide bit to the chuck, I have a handy, dandy milling machine. You may be able to accomplish the same result using a Dremel Tool and cutters (although the process will take longer).

If I need to add some weight back into the locomotive, I take shotgun shells that have the smallest size pellets I can find, usually #9, open the shells and pack the shot into a small plastic bag that in turn is then stuffed into an empty space in the locomotive. I then fill any remaining space in the bag with Super Glue. CAREFUL- THE GLUE MAY GET VERY HOT when curing! Also ask the salesperson in the gun shop to cut the shells apart for you so that you may take home just the shot. Loose powder may be ILLEGAL where you reside, and unless you are very experienced, it may also be LETHEL.

Arthur

Vollrath, Don <dvollrath@...>
 

You can purchase just the #9 lead bird-shot pellets in most gun and hunting supply stores.
Another source for heavy metal is solder slag removed from cleaning a soldering pot or wave solder machine if you have access to industries that might use them. Just cut and pound their 'trash' into the shape you need.
DonV

-----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of Arthur F. Rounds
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2013 12:16 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Re: Plder Lifelike to DCC

Hello Mike G.,

The alloy that is used to make the weight(s) in most locomotives is relatively soft. I grind out the space I need for a decoder and speaker using a miniature, bench top, MicroMark drill press with an X-Y table. After adding a 1/4", flat head carbide bit to the chuck, I have a handy, dandy milling machine. You may be able to accomplish the same result using a Dremel Tool and cutters (although the process will take longer).

If I need to add some weight back into the locomotive, I take shotgun shells that have the smallest size pellets I can find, usually #9, open the shells and pack the shot into a small plastic bag that in turn is then stuffed into an empty space in the locomotive. I then fill any remaining space in the bag with Super Glue. CAREFUL- THE GLUE MAY GET VERY HOT when curing! Also ask the salesperson in the gun shop to cut the shells apart for you so that you may take home just the shot. Loose powder may be ILLEGAL where you reside, and unless you are very experienced, it may also be LETHEL.

Arthur

------------------------------------

http://www.WiringForDCC.comYahoo! Groups Links

emrldsky
 

I was comparing my engine to the example on the website. Mine has a newer(?) circuit board in it, or at least it has a few more components on it. The loco itself has two headlights, so there a set of 3 white wires (one per headlight, and a common).

There are still two screws that hold the circuit board in place, but one of them also holds what I believe to be a voltage regulator, in place as well.

(picture available if requested)

I just want verification, that if I use a different decoder from TCS that the same wiring for the decoder plug is valid.

emrldsky
 

O.K., Now I am puzzeled. There are two headlights, an upper and a lower headlight. The lower is no problem - two leads. However, the upper headlight has three leads coming out of it. They went all the way back to the circuit board, which I have removed. I removed most of the components on the top of the circuit board before I discovered the three lead headlight. Does anyone have a schematic of the wiring? I can make guesses as to what it was for, but I would like to have some idea for sure before I proceed.

 

I measured between the three leads in all the combinations and came out that between any two leads, with any polarity there is about 35 ohms, cold.

 

Thanks,

Mike G.

 



---In WiringForDCC@..., <wiringfordcc@...> wrote:

I was comparing my engine to the example on the website. Mine has a newer(?) circuit board in it, or at least it has a few more components on it. The loco itself has two headlights, so there a set of 3 white wires (one per headlight, and a common).

There are still two screws that hold the circuit board in place, but one of them also holds what I believe to be a voltage regulator, in place as well.

(picture available if requested)

I just want verification, that if I use a different decoder from TCS that the same wiring for the decoder plug is valid.

Scott H. Haycock
 

Mike, 
I suspect that the upper, 3 lead bulb(white, blue, and red wires) is a Mars light. This bulb would brighten and dim and would be controlled by the DC circuit board. While you could plug a decoder into the circuit board, I would remove it and replace it with a decoder designed to fit the same space. Several manufacturers make decoders designed to do just this. You may have to replace the bulbs, depending on the decoder, But with the 3 wire bulb, you would only need the white and blue wires, as the Mars lighting effect would be controlled by the decoder.

The wiring color code is a NMRA standard, so hooking up the wires from the trucks, motor, and lights should be straight forward. The upper, Mars light would be wired to a accessory function, like and programmed with CVs to simulate the effect.

As has been mentioned, knowing what decoder you want to use will allow for a more precise answer.    

 

 

O.K., Now I am puzzeled. There are two headlights, an upper and a lower headlight. The lower is no problem - two leads. However, the upper headlight has three leads coming out of it. They went all the way back to the circuit board, which I have removed. I removed most of the components on the top of the circuit board before I discovered the three lead headlight. Does anyone have a schematic of the wiring? I can make guesses as to what it was for, but I would like to have some idea for sure before I proceed.

 

I measured between the three leads in all the combinations and came out that between any two leads, with any polarity there is about 35 ohms, cold.

 

Thanks,

Mike G.

 



---In WiringForDCC@..., wrote:

I was comparing my engine to the example on the website. Mine has a newer(?) circuit board in it, or at least it has a few more components on it. The loco itself has two headlights, so there a set of 3 white wires (one per headlight, and a common).

There are still two screws that hold the circuit board in place, but one of them also holds what I believe to be a voltage regulator, in place as well.

(picture available if requested)

I just want verification, that if I use a different decoder from TCS that the same wiring for the decoder plug is valid.



---In WiringForDCC@..., wrote:

Mike,

 

Does this example from the TCS web site help you?

 

http://tinyurl.com/njxzpt6

 

Ross

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto: WiringForDCC@... ] On Behalf Of azMikeG@...
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2013 7:47 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Plder Lifelike to DCC

 




I have an older Lifelike / Proto 2000  E-8a in MKT red livery and is DC. It is full of a large weight and has a circuit board in it. The front headlight hooks up to the circuit board. Not much room for a decoder. Is there a prodedure documented somewhere? Any suggestions?

 

Thanks,

Mike G.


Vollrath, Don <dvollrath@...>
 

Mike you have encountered a P2K E8 with a hardware circuit to make the top light flash as a Mars light. The top bulb actually has two low voltage filaments. The IC you called a voltage regulator feeds a dual ‘555 timer chip that alternates the side-side bulb filaments.

For conversion to DCC you should consider ripping out the entire circuit board, replacing the headlights with LEDs and hard wiring the decoder in place (or use a harness with a plug). Many DCC decoders can simulate the flashing of a Mars light using a single filament bulb or LED. You could also try to manipulate a DCC ditch lights feature to flash and alternate the top dual incandescent bulb like a Mars light. (caution, it is a low voltage lamp, so use a current limiting resistor.)

 

Never count on an old unit being wired according to the NMRA standards. Verify every wire, every time.

As long as you are making the DCC conversion, make it a Tsunami and add sound. There should be plenty of room for a Hi-Bass speaker.

DonV  

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of azMikeG@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2013 11:52 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: RE: RE: RE: [WiringForDCC] Plder Lifelike to DCC

 




O.K., Now I am puzzeled. There are two headlights, an upper and a lower headlight. The lower is no problem - two leads. However, the upper headlight has three leads coming out of it. They went all the way back to the circuit board, which I have removed. I removed most of the components on the top of the circuit board before I discovered the three lead headlight. Does anyone have a schematic of the wiring? I can make guesses as to what it was for, but I would like to have some idea for sure before I proceed.

 

I measured between the three leads in all the combinations and came out that between any two leads, with any polarity there is about 35 ohms, cold.

 

Thanks,

Mike G.

 



---In WiringForDCC@..., <wiringfordcc@...> wrote:

I was comparing my engine to the example on the website. Mine has a newer(?) circuit board in it, or at least it has a few more components on it. The loco itself has two headlights, so there a set of 3 white wires (one per headlight, and a common).

There are still two screws that hold the circuit board in place, but one of them also holds what I believe to be a voltage regulator, in place as well.

(picture available if requested)

I just want verification, that if I use a different decoder from TCS that the same wiring for the decoder plug is valid.



---In WiringForDCC@..., <wiringfordcc@...> wrote:

Mike,

 

Does this example from the TCS web site help you?

 

http://tinyurl.com/njxzpt6

 

Ross

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto: WiringForDCC@... ] On Behalf Of azMikeG@...
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2013 7:47 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Plder Lifelike to DCC

 



I have an older Lifelike / Proto 2000  E-8a in MKT red livery and is DC. It is full of a large weight and has a circuit board in it. The front headlight hooks up to the circuit board. Not much room for a decoder. Is there a prodedure documented somewhere? Any suggestions?

 

Thanks,

Mike G.




emrldsky
 

Well, now I am frustrated, and would like suggestions...

I started the conversion and all went just fine. Got all the wires hooked up, even using the two filament bulb as a MARS light. I taped the decoder down, and left the cover off. Off to the test track. Ir ran fine, after I cleaned the wheels. The headlight would not light and the MARS light was way too dim. Simple solution - change the dropping resistor. Took the engine to the bench and removed the headlight resistor. Left the two wire ends bare. Went back to the test track and used clip leads to switch in and out the resistors of various values until I found a reasonable one. It did get hot to the touch. Back to the bench. Installed the desired resistor using the next higher wattage in the headlight circuit, and removed the resistor for the MARS light. Back to the test track. Now nothing works. Cannot read CV, no motion, no lights. No difference if a resistor is clipped in or left out of the MARS light circuit.

So, where did I foul up? This is the second engine with these symptoms. The only two common items are both are trying to use TCS decoders, TH141, and I am the guy worked on both of them.

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of azMikeG@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2013 11:52 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: RE: RE: RE: [WiringForDCC] Plder Lifelike to DCC

 




O.K., Now I am puzzeled. There are two headlights, an upper and a lower headlight. The lower is no problem - two leads. However, the upper headlight has three leads coming out of it. They went all the way back to the circuit board, which I have removed. I removed most of the components on the top of the circuit board before I discovered the three lead headlight. Does anyone have a schematic of the wiring? I can make guesses as to what it was for, but I would like to have some idea for sure before I proceed.

 

I measured between the three leads in all the combinations and came out that between any two leads, with any polarity there is about 35 ohms, cold.

 

Thanks,

Mike G.

 



---In WiringForDCC@..., <wiringfordcc@...> wrote:

I was comparing my engine to the example on the website. Mine has a newer(?) circuit board in it, or at least it has a few more components on it. The loco itself has two headlights, so there a set of 3 white wires (one per headlight, and a common).

There are still two screws that hold the circuit board in place, but one of them also holds what I believe to be a voltage regulator, in place as well.

(picture available if requested)

I just want verification, that if I use a different decoder from TCS that the same wiring for the decoder plug is valid.



---In WiringForDCC@..., <wiringfordcc@...> wrote:

Mike,

 

Does this example from the TCS web site help you?

 

http://tinyurl.com/njxzpt6

 

Ross

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto: WiringForDCC@... ] On Behalf Of azMikeG@...
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2013 7:47 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Plder Lifelike to DCC

 



I have an older Lifelike / Proto 2000  E-8a in MKT red livery and is DC. It is full of a large weight and has a circuit board in it. The front headlight hooks up to the circuit board. Not much room for a decoder. Is there a prodedure documented somewhere? Any suggestions?

 

Thanks,

Mike G.




Andrew Wood
 

Rip the "Mars" light out, fit a standard led... Then program the led to Mars effect

Andrew Wood
Maffra, Victoria


On 26 Sep 2013, at 14:20, azMikeG@... wrote:

 

Well, now I am frustrated, and would like suggestions...

I started the conversion and all went just fine. Got all the wires hooked up, even using the two filament bulb as a MARS light. I taped the decoder down, and left the cover off. Off to the test track. Ir ran fine, after I cleaned the wheels. The headlight would not light and the MARS light was way too dim. Simple solution - change the dropping resistor. Took the engine to the bench and removed the headlight resistor. Left the two wire ends bare. Went back to the test track and used clip leads to switch in and out the resistors of various values until I found a reasonable one. It did get hot to the touch. Back to the bench. Installed the desired resistor using the next higher wattage in the headlight circuit, and removed the resistor for the MARS light. Back to the test track. Now nothing works. Cannot read CV, no motion, no lights. No difference if a resistor is clipped in or left out of the MARS light circuit.

So, where did I foul up? This is the second engine with these symptoms. The only two common items are both are trying to use TCS decoders, TH141, and I am the guy worked on both of them.



---In WiringForDCC@..., <wiringfordcc@...> wrote:

Mike you have encountered a P2K E8 with a hardware circuit to make the top light flash as a Mars light. The top bulb actually has two low voltage filaments. The IC you called a voltage regulator feeds a dual ‘555 timer chip that alternates the side-side bulb filaments.

For conversion to DCC you should consider ripping out the entire circuit board, replacing the headlights with LEDs and hard wiring the decoder in place (or use a harness with a plug). Many DCC decoders can simulate the flashing of a Mars light using a single filament bulb or LED. You could also try to manipulate a DCC ditch lights feature to flash and alternate the top dual incandescent bulb like a Mars light. (caution, it is a low voltage lamp, so use a current limiting resistor.)

 

Never count on an old unit being wired according to the NMRA standards. Verify every wire, every time.

As long as you are making the DCC conversion, make it a Tsunami and add sound. There should be plenty of room for a Hi-Bass speaker.

DonV  

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of azMikeG@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2013 11:52 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: RE: RE: RE: [WiringForDCC] Plder Lifelike to DCC

 




O.K., Now I am puzzeled. There are two headlights, an upper and a lower headlight. The lower is no problem - two leads. However, the upper headlight has three leads coming out of it. They went all the way back to the circuit board, which I have removed. I removed most of the components on the top of the circuit board before I discovered the three lead headlight. Does anyone have a schematic of the wiring? I can make guesses as to what it was for, but I would like to have some idea for sure before I proceed.

 

I measured between the three leads in all the combinations and came out that between any two leads, with any polarity there is about 35 ohms, cold.

 

Thanks,

Mike G.

 



---In WiringForDCC@..., <wiringfordcc@...> wrote:

I was comparing my engine to the example on the website. Mine has a newer(?) circuit board in it, or at least it has a few more components on it. The loco itself has two headlights, so there a set of 3 white wires (one per headlight, and a common).

There are still two screws that hold the circuit board in place, but one of them also holds what I believe to be a voltage regulator, in place as well.

(picture available if requested)

I just want verification, that if I use a different decoder from TCS that the same wiring for the decoder plug is valid.



---In WiringForDCC@..., <wiringfordcc@...> wrote:

Mike,

 

Does this example from the TCS web site help you?

 

http://tinyurl.com/njxzpt6

 

Ross

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto: WiringForDCC@... ] On Behalf Of azMikeG@...
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2013 7:47 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Plder Lifelike to DCC

 



I have an older Lifelike / Proto 2000  E-8a in MKT red livery and is DC. It is full of a large weight and has a circuit board in it. The front headlight hooks up to the circuit board. Not much room for a decoder. Is there a prodedure documented somewhere? Any suggestions?

 

Thanks,

Mike G.




emrldsky
 

And that would get the loco running again? How? 

On 26 Sep 2013, at 14:20, azMikeG@... wrote:

 

Well, now I am frustrated, and would like suggestions...

I started the conversion and all went just fine. Got all the wires hooked up, even using the two filament bulb as a MARS light. I taped the decoder down, and left the cover off. Off to the test track. Ir ran fine, after I cleaned the wheels. The headlight would not light and the MARS light was way too dim. Simple solution - change the dropping resistor. Took the engine to the bench and removed the headlight resistor. Left the two wire ends bare. Went back to the test track and used clip leads to switch in and out the resistors of various values until I found a reasonable one. It did get hot to the touch. Back to the bench. Installed the desired resistor using the next higher wattage in the headlight circuit, and removed the resistor for the MARS light. Back to the test track. Now nothing works. Cannot read CV, no motion, no lights. No difference if a resistor is clipped in or left out of the MARS light circuit.

So, where did I foul up? This is the second engine with these symptoms. The only two common items are both are trying to use TCS decoders, TH141, and I am the guy worked on both of them.



---In WiringForDCC@..., <wiringfordcc@...> wrote:

Mike you have encountered a P2K E8 with a hardware circuit to make the top light flash as a Mars light. The top bulb actually has two low voltage filaments. The IC you called a voltage regulator feeds a dual ‘555 timer chip that alternates the side-side bulb filaments.

For conversion to DCC you should consider ripping out the entire circuit board, replacing the headlights with LEDs and hard wiring the decoder in place (or use a harness with a plug). Many DCC decoders can simulate the flashing of a Mars light using a single filament bulb or LED. You could also try to manipulate a DCC ditch lights feature to flash and alternate the top dual incandescent bulb like a Mars light. (caution, it is a low voltage lamp, so use a current limiting resistor.)

 

Never count on an old unit being wired according to the NMRA standards. Verify every wire, every time.

As long as you are making the DCC conversion, make it a Tsunami and add sound. There should be plenty of room for a Hi-Bass speaker.

DonV  

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of azMikeG@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2013 11:52 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: RE: RE: RE: [WiringForDCC] Plder Lifelike to DCC

 




O.K., Now I am puzzeled. There are two headlights, an upper and a lower headlight. The lower is no problem - two leads. However, the upper headlight has three leads coming out of it. They went all the way back to the circuit board, which I have removed. I removed most of the components on the top of the circuit board before I discovered the three lead headlight. Does anyone have a schematic of the wiring? I can make guesses as to what it was for, but I would like to have some idea for sure before I proceed.

 

I measured between the three leads in all the combinations and came out that between any two leads, with any polarity there is about 35 ohms, cold.

 

Thanks,

Mike G.

 



---In WiringForDCC@..., <wiringfordcc@...> wrote:

I was comparing my engine to the example on the website. Mine has a newer(?) circuit board in it, or at least it has a few more components on it. The loco itself has two headlights, so there a set of 3 white wires (one per headlight, and a common).

There are still two screws that hold the circuit board in place, but one of them also holds what I believe to be a voltage regulator, in place as well.

(picture available if requested)

I just want verification, that if I use a different decoder from TCS that the same wiring for the decoder plug is valid.



---In WiringForDCC@..., <wiringfordcc@...> wrote:

Mike,

 

Does this example from the TCS web site help you?

 

http://tinyurl.com/njxzpt6

 

Ross

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto: WiringForDCC@... ] On Behalf Of azMikeG@...
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2013 7:47 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Plder Lifelike to DCC

 



I have an older Lifelike / Proto 2000  E-8a in MKT red livery and is DC. It is full of a large weight and has a circuit board in it. The front headlight hooks up to the circuit board. Not much room for a decoder. Is there a prodedure documented somewhere? Any suggestions?

 

Thanks,

Mike G.




Puckdropper
 

Check the connections.  Make sure track voltage is making its way to the decoder.  You can insert a pin (such as those from a resistor) in the holes of the 9-pin JST connector to check for voltage.


If you've got another decoder, try plugging that in.  It might be a good idea to remove the Mars light connections first.



---In wiringfordcc@..., <wiringfordcc@...> wrote:

Well, now I am frustrated, and would like suggestions...

I started the conversion and all went just fine. Got all the wires hooked up, even using the two filament bulb as a MARS light. I taped the decoder down, and left the cover off. Off to the test track. Ir ran fine, after I cleaned the wheels. The headlight would not light and the MARS light was way too dim. Simple solution - change the dropping resistor. Took the engine to the bench and removed the headlight resistor. Left the two wire ends bare. Went back to the test track and used clip leads to switch in and out the resistors of various values until I found a reasonable one. It did get hot to the touch. Back to the bench. Installed the desired resistor using the next higher wattage in the headlight circuit, and removed the resistor for the MARS light. Back to the test track. Now nothing works. Cannot read CV, no motion, no lights. No difference if a resistor is clipped in or left out of the MARS light circuit.

So, where did I foul up? This is the second engine with these symptoms. The only two common items are both are trying to use TCS decoders, TH141, and I am the guy worked on both of them.

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of azMikeG@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2013 11:52 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: RE: RE: RE: [WiringForDCC] Plder Lifelike to DCC

 




O.K., Now I am puzzeled. There are two headlights, an upper and a lower headlight. The lower is no problem - two leads. However, the upper headlight has three leads coming out of it. They went all the way back to the circuit board, which I have removed. I removed most of the components on the top of the circuit board before I discovered the three lead headlight. Does anyone have a schematic of the wiring? I can make guesses as to what it was for, but I would like to have some idea for sure before I proceed.

 

I measured between the three leads in all the combinations and came out that between any two leads, with any polarity there is about 35 ohms, cold.

 

Thanks,

Mike G.

 



---In WiringForDCC@..., <wiringfordcc@...> wrote:

I was comparing my engine to the example on the website. Mine has a newer(?) circuit board in it, or at least it has a few more components on it. The loco itself has two headlights, so there a set of 3 white wires (one per headlight, and a common).

There are still two screws that hold the circuit board in place, but one of them also holds what I believe to be a voltage regulator, in place as well.

(picture available if requested)

I just want verification, that if I use a different decoder from TCS that the same wiring for the decoder plug is valid.



---In WiringForDCC@..., <wiringfordcc@...> wrote:

Mike,

 

Does this example from the TCS web site help you?

 

http://tinyurl.com/njxzpt6

 

Ross

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto: WiringForDCC@... ] On Behalf Of azMikeG@...
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2013 7:47 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Plder Lifelike to DCC

 



I have an older Lifelike / Proto 2000  E-8a in MKT red livery and is DC. It is full of a large weight and has a circuit board in it. The front headlight hooks up to the circuit board. Not much room for a decoder. Is there a prodedure documented somewhere? Any suggestions?

 

Thanks,

Mike G.




Paul <summermanva@...>
 

I bet that you can buy just the shot that is used for reloaders.
 
Paul
 
Live Simply, Laugh Often

From: Arthur F. Rounds
To: WiringForDCC@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2013 1:15 PM
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Re: Plder Lifelike to DCC

Hello Mike G.,

The alloy that is used to make the weight(s) in most locomotives is relatively soft. I grind out the space I need for a decoder and speaker using a miniature, bench top, MicroMark drill press with an X-Y table. After adding a 1/4", flat head carbide bit to the chuck, I have a handy, dandy milling machine. You may be able to accomplish the same result using a Dremel Tool and cutters (although the process will take longer).

If I need to add some weight back into the locomotive, I take shotgun shells that have the smallest size pellets I can find, usually #9, open the shells and pack the shot into a small plastic bag that in turn is then stuffed into an empty space in the locomotive. I then fill any remaining space in the bag with Super Glue. CAREFUL- THE GLUE MAY GET VERY HOT when curing! Also ask the salesperson in the gun shop to cut the shells apart for you so that you may take home just the shot. Loose powder may be ILLEGAL where you reside, and unless you are very experienced, it may also be LETHEL.

Arthur