Has anyone actually read the OP's post, and reply, before chiming in? Honestly, "Steamiebigboy", what's that got to do with a 400ma 12VDC wall wart? Wow. Hilarious. Blair

Greg Respectfully, why not ask on the NCE list, or an NCE facebook page if one exists? All of your questions deal with NCE-specific non-DCC-wiring topics. This is totally off-topic for a forum about h

Unintelligible. Do you mean on the 20VDC range, the meter reads 14.75VDC? If so, it's unregulated. Using it for anything that requires 12VDC unequivocally will certainly violate a warranty, and may pr

Richard Get your voltmeter, set it to 20V range, and plug in the adapter in and measure the output with no load. If it's a regulated supply, it will read 12V. If it's not regulated, it may well be pro

Dick Your point? Curious

If you're on an android phone, the files and photos options are available through the "hamburger" button on the bottom right of the web page. You're welcome. Blair

I have no idea how you're accessing groups.io. Here's a link to the members manual for groups. Many moderators/owners don't know this exists. https://groups.io/helpcenter/membersmanual As for "the gro

The simplest way to connect such that both directions have a reversing loop is the old 'figure 8 with sidebars', with either back-to-back Y turnouts, or a crossing, in the center. The entire 'X' in th

Greg list strips attachments and embeds.

Don Ironically, twenty years ago, we'd mostly all have twigged to this, because so many were running mixed DC and DCC locos. Now, not so much. Blair

Then my expectation is for some reason your layout wiring has 'changed' - to me, the most likely change is the failure of the common signal in one or more Loconet cable due to excessive currents, or a

Jerry Please differentiate between a voltage common reference, and a ground. I have personally removed a wire run from the ground in an AC outlet to a DCC booster GND connection. A very good explanati

Last try. It's not about control. Since Alan couldn't convince you, how about an EE? https://sites.google.com/site/markgurries/dcc-welcome-page/dcc-best-practices/booster-connections-power/multiple-bo

Mike https://www.wiringfordcc.com/booster.htm You may be thinking of Recommendation 4-5 - Do Not Have A Common Rail or Common Wire Between Booster Districts But context is everything - he's talking ab

Mike Though it may be unrelated to your problem, you must have misread the Wiring4DCC site. Digitrax wants the GND pin on boosters, DCS, and PM42 (possibly other items, as well) connected with a separ

This works well with 12VDC and reasonable wire gauge. I run my tortoises on old Ethernet cable, and I find that the longer runs in some cases (> 15')) mean I have enough additional resistance that I'm

As for "nothing happened", the most likely culprit is that the dropping humidity as winter sets in has caused the wood in your layout to shrink - but the tracks do not respond to humidity changes. So

The other exception are the flat cables. I've not run across any of those with a pull string. Mind you, I'm not sure that's the "Cat 5" any of you had in mind, as it's not generally used the way "plen

Jim I'm no pro, but I once did the following to strip an old DVI cable to get the fine conductors out. Epoxy a flat 1/8" tab on the top edge of a #11 Exacto blade; the tab should project beyond the ti

Wouter Strictly not necessary, I would agree, but three factors warrant it in most cases, to me. 1) there may come a day when another booster is added; it's not advisable to connect either rail in thi