I really enjoy these types of threads and the various comments and opinions expressed. After nearly 50 years of on again, off again model railroading, I have concluded that the vast majority of model

Pete, I tried the email address from your post and it failed to go through. Do you have another one?

#photo-notice

Here's my solution for passenger car and caboose lighting on an HO scale DCC layout: 1A 50V Bridge Rectifier 270 Ohm 1/2 watt Resistor (for in-rush current protection) 470 /35 W Capacitor (just a bit

#photo-notice

Can anyone list the specific benefits of using blue or pink insulation foam on a fixed base home layout? Besides the negative added cost of the material, what are the gained benefits from such an expe

I did this exact thing for the exactly the same reason. In doing so, it prevents the command station from seeing a surge in voltage and therefore, a total power shut down. To make the routing of power

I'm not trying to call out anyone, or point a finger of blame . . . . but this is how I'm summing up this whole thread: A guy buys a locomotive made by "A" and sold through "B" and immediately starts

Why use a bi-color LED at all???? One color will do nicely. When it's "on" the track is powered, and when it's "off" there is obviously no power to the track. LG in San Luiis Obispo

I've never been under my layout to do wiring. With open bench work and by using template type sub-roadbed, you never have to get on hands and knees. This also applies to layout design and Rule No. 1 .

I shouldn't laugh when people trip and fall down when they aren't watching where they're going, but I do. I do the same thing when someone buys something for their railroad that will do "A" and then t

Gary, you hit the nail on the head with this comment, "Is this a small, one operator layout?" The answer to your question is "Yes" . . . . that's exactly what it is. George

Jerry, you're right based on your railroad's operations. I'm a single operator on a home based layout, and while I do run multiple trains at the same time . . . . yard operations are usually one train

You can find almost any amp rating you need for a rotary switch at any good electronics parts store. Mine have been in service for over ten years and they have been perfectly reliable in all those yea

I have basically have the same set-up and wanted to have the same control on each of the tracks. I am very happy with my decision to use a multiple position rotary switch for this. I have 12 tracks in

Spot on comments. I too am amazed at how many responses don't even address the requestor's question or inquiry. It's like they didn't even read the post, or if they did, they just want show their leve

With a minor amount of filing on the rail, just enough to remove any burrs, joiners slip into place without any force or cut finger tips. LG

Use the correctly sized suitcase connectors and your feeder wires will be connected forever, and without soldering in an upside down position. LG

Brian, I'm 6' 4" and as they say, skinny as a rail. You need bigger aisles, plain and simple. Trust those comments you have received and take them seriously. If you ever start building this plan of yo

Glenn, I tried the decoder controlled light bars from Soundtraxx/Blackstone and from Walthers and was immediately turned off by their operation. They need to be programmed (their address) and then tur

Glenn, If you're interested in momentary flicker free operation during train movements, I just installed a very simple and very cheap circuit on all of my passenger cars (26 cars) and cabooses (9) to

No matter what you do inside the shed, you should have one lighted master switch that controls all power going into the shed. That way, when you leave the shed you know all the power is off and you ha