Spot on comments. I too am amazed at how many responses don't even address the requestor's question or inquiry. It's like they didn't even read the post, or if they did, they just want show their leve

With a minor amount of filing on the rail, just enough to remove any burrs, joiners slip into place without any force or cut finger tips. LG

Use the correctly sized suitcase connectors and your feeder wires will be connected forever, and without soldering in an upside down position. LG

Brian, I'm 6' 4" and as they say, skinny as a rail. You need bigger aisles, plain and simple. Trust those comments you have received and take them seriously. If you ever start building this plan of yo

Glenn, I tried the decoder controlled light bars from Soundtraxx/Blackstone and from Walthers and was immediately turned off by their operation. They need to be programmed (their address) and then tur

Glenn, If you're interested in momentary flicker free operation during train movements, I just installed a very simple and very cheap circuit on all of my passenger cars (26 cars) and cabooses (9) to

No matter what you do inside the shed, you should have one lighted master switch that controls all power going into the shed. That way, when you leave the shed you know all the power is off and you ha

One thing Graham didn't mention was how many trains he might be running at any one time. I'm an anti-believer in operations and only run two trains at any one time. I have several blocks that are over

This is an open question for the group members and for your modeling associates. Manufactured lighting kits for DCC powered layout run about $25 to $35 each and are basically made for a specific car o

This topic reminds me of saying my ole boss would use on us when we got too deep and off-track on any given subject . . . "Stop wasting your time trying to pick the fly shit out of the pepper!" Right

Very detailed and well presented, thanks. Hoot

Can anyone provide suggestions, recommendations or links to the simplest of circuits for providing a "flicker-free" lighting circuit for LEDs for the purpose of lighting interior coach spaces, made fr

As I've heard it said, "The third time is the charm." I can't tell you what might have gone wrong in my first two attempts, but obviously something did. So I started over with new/fresh components, in

The first and basic recommendation is to use a 1.5 vdc battery as the power source. You can use track power, and it does require additional circuitry that Tomar does not provide in the kit. George

Tomar's bulbs do not any circuitry. It's simply a micro bulb inserted into a marker lantern housing. George

My third attempt will hopefully correct any defects on my initial attempts . . . It's good to hear someone has had success with these circuits. George

They light with a 1.5 vdc battery. George

Tried the first and second circuits without success. Checked my work several times, and then built new circuits with new components and still failed to get the Tomar lanterns to light? I must be missi

My DC layout has been completely updated and converted to DCC and everything is working as advertised. But there is a small issue. I have a number of cabooses that have Tomar Marker Lanterns installed

I got a portion of this section, but not the last three pages? Your link has a circuit addressing my problem directly, thanks. George To: WiringForDCC@yahoogroups.com From: WiringForDCC@yahoogroups.co