Sam, that just doesn’t sound correct. How is one to know if a decoder is defective or not until it’s installed! Unless the decoder is out of warranty because of time, it should be honored, especially

Don, go to the folder you created click on it to open it, then click on the blue box that says ‘Add photos’. Then click on the box that says browse, then upload the photo or file that you wish. Paul O

Keep-a-lives are a “Band-Aid” for improperly maintained locos and track. My two cents. 🤪 Paul O

Tim, can you supply a little more context as to where this phrase was used? Paul O

John, to diagnose wheel pick up problems, take a piece of tissue paper, make it wide enough to isolate one whole truck, place it across the tracks and run your local over it. See if you can determine

Charles, convert a couple of your locos to DCC; buy your DCC system of choice; remove your DC transformer; install your new DCC system and have fun running your trains! Please don’t attempt to mix the

William, are you feeding the input of the auto reverser from a circuit breaker? I had a similar problem with that type of connection. Try feeding the auto reverser directly from your DCC power supply.

Michael, click on the album you created; click on the “+ add photo” box; click on the “browse“ box; select the photo that you want to upload; click on “add “. Paul O

Charles, I replaced my photo because I had one of the isolators in the wrong location at Rev Loop 1. Also I cleaned up all of your polarity markings to make my changes a little clearer. You can re-add

Charles, I took a shot at a solution. Three reverse loops. Paul O

Nick, the SwitchKat manual says that a CV can be set to a maximum of 255 (in milliseconds) which would give you about a quarter of a second of on-time max. A momentary pushbutton switch wired to a sep

Don, you need double insulated gaps on the diverging legs at both #2 and #5 turnouts. Connect the input of the reverser to the rails outside the reversing section. Connect the output of the reverser t

#file-notice

Tom, I believe you have two options; #1, an extra dropping resistor in series with the brighter color, or #2, LEDs from a different source. Paul O

Lloyd, you need to treat this as two separate circuits; one, the motor circuit you want to remain DC; two, the track circuit which is to be DCC. I’m not familiar with that turntable, but what you’ll n

Daniel, the only place I see a problem is on the inner yellow track that connects to the red left hand turn out. It presents a reverse loop. It needs to have insulated rail joiners and needs a DCC rev

Ken, to begin with, with DCC, usual terminology would be ‘left rail’ or ‘right rail’ as opposed to ‘common rail’. That said, what you will need is a DCC reversing unit. Without a diagram of your track

Carl, the symptoms you’ll see is erratic behavior of a loco (stopping, not responding to the throttle, etc.) on a certain part of the track, usually not far from the end of your bus wire. This one is

Michael, no it’s not needed. The purpose of the snubber is to reduce the reflected signal at the end of an unterminated buss; not needed in the center of a buss. Paul O

Brent, Chris is probably correct about the flux. The problem is a path from the top copper of one rail to the bottom copper of the tie strip and back to the other isolated top copper. I always cut gap

Pete, For each reverser unit, connect the input side to the red/blue tracks; connect the output side to the green tracks. The location of isolators B, C and D can be anywhere within their short arcs o