Blair, I don't remember seeing what wire gauge you are using for all of your power bus runs. I hope it is at least 14 gauge and your runs are less than 40 feet or so (20 as the crow flies). A voltage

Kevin, The new drawing looks good. It's important that we mention that you do not want to have two different trains crossing the boundaries of the reversing section at the same time. This will 'confus

All, Since my long term plan is to use LCC to act as an "assistant" to staging - I've got the solution I'm searching for ... I will simply (not so simple?) use LCC to create an 'electronic spring swit

Blair, Are you saying "use block detection" as in "current sensing"? That makes for a pretty long block - to be certain that any train departing from staging has completely passed the loop switch. Or

Hi, So I've already done some research and I'm not "getting it". Here's what I want to do: I have a staging loop that I want to run clockwise - ONLY. I built it with a spring switch (Peco Code 83 modi

Peter, I don't use juicers (personal preference) ... but if I understand them correctly they are used to detect an approaching train -and- line the turnout for the route to be used? Or is that the Wab

Check RR-Cirkits to see if their LEDs meet your requirements ... Jim in the PNW

Wayne, These are the common things experienced with a less-than-optimal DCC wave form. Loksound decoders are especially sensitive to any DCC signal issues (and that's just one of the reasons why I don

David, You should be able to test just "going across the rails/bus". You are looking for two things - first an anomaly in the top and bottom "level" parts of the signal. Second, any anomaly in the ris

Detlef, First - "Welcome". Second - did you know you are the second Detlef in this hobby? As to your question - the majority of the electronics in your trains are just that "electronics". That means t

Juergen, You're right - this should not be happening. If you have two auto-reversers that are in adjacent districts you can end up with them "fighting each other" unless they have different settings.

Hi, I also am painting a tie that visually identifies the fouling point. The real RRs did this - infrequently/depends upon the RR - and it really does help visiting operators to know/think about where

Hi, Anyone using The Wabbit or some other such device to change the position of turnouts? I've seen these used on reverse loops and was wondering if you think they "work/are worth it" in order to avoi

Bill D, What people are recommending is to 'extend' the ends of the two tracks of the turnout using a short piece of rail ... out to the fowling point. And making those extensions electrically part of

Puckdropper, The advantage of going out to the fouling point is that - if you decide to add detection you will be able to "see" a problem ... if the track beyond the fouling point shows occupied then

Hi, So how do you use "epoxy or plastic" to fill the insulated gaps? Cut a short section of styrene strip of the same width as the railhead and glue it in place? What glue? If using epoxy - how do you

dyoung, If you haven't already purchased the AR10 - buy a PSX-AR to make your layout more friendly to sound/lighted passenger cars. Even if you already own the AR10 - if you think you will -ever- use

Nick, I use 0603 and 0402 leds with leads already on them from LEDbaron on eBay. I start with a 3k resistor and go up from there to whatever brightness I like for that LED in that use on the loco. One

Hi, One guy I know uses regular DPDT (SPDT?) slide switches mounted in the layout for his turnouts. The slide switch is connected to the throw bar with a short length of piano wire. You slide the swit

Bernard, Try one of the "diamond coated cut off disks" for your Dremel. The trick is to use a long enough mandrel that it cuts more or less straight. For this cut you don't need to 'join' the rails af