Again, a salute to Don Volrath: His comments are always comprehensive and packed with relevant information! What a contribution to this forum and to the vocation (it’s more than a hobby!) of DCC railr

Puckdropper, Thanks for the tip! Any idea as to part number and source of the terminal blocks? Are you a hockey referee? Malcolm Stewart Sent: Friday, August 03, 2012 10:08 AM To: WiringForDCC@yahoogr

About a third of my layout is on trestle, which I'm now commencing. The bents are 6" wide at top and 8" wide at bottom. The minimum height is 6" I have a Digitrax Diginetwork enclosed in PVC conduit r

My DCC components are, to this point, all Digitrax. There are a couple of places in my layout where I need auto reversing. What module do you recommend for this? Thank you, Malcolm PS I again thank al

A bus is a conveyance; something that carries stuff. A Greyhound bus carries people. An electrical bus carries electrons. Years ago there was a company named Buss that made cartridge fuses. I think a

I fear I've sprained my mind fretting the subject. I'm fortunate to have a pretty, brick building with broad eaves and crickets in the back corner of the garden that (sprain permitting) a little stret

Don, My sincere apology for dropping the second "L" from your surname. (I can empathize with your reaction; the second "L" in my given name is frequently dropped.) I shall, in future, always give you

Jim and Don, I join a recognized expert and generous contributor and teacher on the subject of DCC for Garden Railroading in endorsing Don Volrath's recommendation for powering your helix. But I must

Larry, I havent made the cost tradeoff, but believe I've used an economical and reasonably method: That is to pull the relatively 6-wire indoor cable thru 1/2" electrical PVC conduit, being certain to

Reinforcing Don's guidance, the instructions for installing a Hillman 332-04 Insulated Rail Clamp to provide a gap between power districts is to ..."apply a glob of liquid silicone to one end of the a

Mike and Don, Thanks for your responses to my cris de coeur on the subject. I'm going to explore the incandescent bulb idea; for it I'll need a small socket so the beacon doesn't get all out of propor

Thank you, Mike. Can you suggest a source for the reflector cone? Malcolm

Glen, Wow! What a great tip, The "Pitman Motion". Now I've the delightful task of comparing a "Pitman" vs a "Tortoise" solution suggested by DonV--not to lightly set aside the wonderful solution to my

I have several places where the viewing path crosses the track(s) that are laid on a roadbed on the ground. At these spots, I entrench a piece of 2" PVC as a wire chase and then lay a piece of pressur

Right now, it's all in my head. I'll post a picture when I've it worked out. But don't hold your breath--it took me 3 years to build a two-tower suspension bridge! Malcolm Stewart

Mea Culpa, Allan! I shall never again address you as "Allen". Malcolm

Thank you, Allen, for your response to my inquiry. Your description (as always!) is very clear and I'm comfortable that I understand them. Meanwhile, DonV suggested that I might operate the doors with

Thank you Allen for your response. Your explanation (as always!) is very clear and I am comfortable that I understand it. DonV suggested that I consider using a Tortoise

Thank you very much, Alan, David, Paul and Don, for your responses to my inquiry about "swinging doors" circuitry. I'll order the book that was recommended. Having rigged up a bellcrank arrangement on

I desire to operate a pair of swinging doors (on a shed for a switcher loco) remotely from my DCC throtle. I've schemed out a plunger with a rack that is driven by a pinion on a motor that's controlle