Hi, Tom. Your description isn't 100% clear. I'm not sure you've gapped both rails of both ends of your reversing section,. That is essential, so if you haven't done so, it is the first step toward a s

Jerry M, I agree with what Steve H wrote and the Wiring for DCC page he references. Note the RC networks are on the ends of the buses that feed power to the block detectors, not on the detected sides.

Well, separating the two bus wires by a large distance reduces coupling between them, but also increases the difference in their coupling to and from other signals. So, separating the two DCC bus wire

Bob L, This isn't about stranded vs solid conductors. Nor is it about coupling between the two wires in a pair. The twisting of the pair around each other helps reduce coupling of signals from that pa

Twisting wire pairs has been used for much longer than DCC has been around. In audio work, it tends to cancel noise (any unwanted signals) coupling into one pair from the currents in others. It's grea

John D, Using 14 gauge bus wire on a layout that size is almost certainly overkill, but won't cause any functional difficulties. We all appreciate things that, like the old Timex ads,"Take a licking a

Every wall wart I've ever examined closely has all sorts of safety listings printed on it. And, they are used so manufacturers don't need to jump through the hoops to sell products containing the line

Richard, What is the power or especially output current rating? Many wall warts are rather low power, won't even power a programming track. Also, some DC wall warts may only rectify the DC, not filter

PennsyNut, Your wiring method clearly is working for you so far. That's great. I like your mention of tugging. I'm a believer in the "tug test", at appropriate forces for each connection being tested.

The values George gave will work fine. The bridge rectifier is about as low a rating as you can get, so it will be small and inexpensive. The 270 Ohm resistor will limit the inrush current to about 0.

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Michael, If both of your meters show the same symptom, then it's pretty certain not the meters. Since you have the same readings at all your boosters outputs and all over your railroad, it seems a pro

Michael, If your boosters' track voltages really were dropping by half, your trains would run much more slowly or not at all. Since that's not happening, the actual voltage can't be dropping that much

While a capacitor across the traces that power the LEDs will help, the voltage range over which the LEDs light is small, so the capacitor can't deliver power very long before the LEDs dim and then go

Michael, With the two lead bicolor LED, the easiest wiring is to connect it, with a series resistor, between the two wires powering the Tortoise switch machine. When power to the Tortoise reverses, th

Michael, If your 12 position rotary switch has a spare "deck" you could use it to switch power to the tracks. But, it's not a great idea, because those switches aren't intended for switching as much p

Michael, Welcome to the wonderful wide world of model railroading and DCC! You'll f8ind there are multiple ways to do almost anything on a model railroad. How your LEDs should be wired depends on what

Nat, It gets complicated. Adding boosters without connecting them to the cable between the command station and other boosters is challenging. The boosters' outputs all need essentially the same timing

Lawrence, That should work, as far as I can tell. You need to make certain there isn't wiring in the turntable that tries to make all the exit stub tracks' polarities the same, since BF7 now is the op

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Lawrence, Your drawing isn't clear to me. BF7/block 28 can't be connected to the same AR as the turntable, or their relative phases will never switch, and one end of the turntable will always short th

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Nick, The main disadvantage of having unequal bus lengths is that the longest runs are longer, and their voltage drops are also greater. At some point, the wiring might need terminators to minimize DC

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