As an O scaler butting in, I use a Bright Boy, or occasionally alcohol. I have Code 100 steel rail. The layout's been around quite a while, and this works fine. I probably don't actually clean the tra

Hi Tom, Sounds like that will work fine -- and obviously does. My situation is a little different since I make my own switches, so there is no plastic do deal with, but electrically, we are both doing

John S., Assume by "a 24-ga. solid wire soldered from the web of the point rail to the web of the frog rail," you mean "to the web of the stock rail" Isn't stranded wire (if not what I suggested more

Hi Jerry, I also use powered frogs and a stall motor (Switchmaster in my case). What I do is solder a jumper from each stock rail to each closure rail, using any kind of wire, which it sounds like you

Let me put in my 2 cents for O scale. I have a three car garage in Southern California, and built layout around my sports car in the middle stall. It's traction/two rail, and while the curves are limi

I would not rely on the points for electrical contact -- and I am in O scale, using Code 100 to 148, not N with much smaller rail. I agree with not segmenting the closure rail, though. You can simulat

I use the SwitchMaster (SM) machine, controlled by the NCE Switch-It. I prefer the SM to the Tortoise because it is so easy to mount and the motion is rotary -- allowing the use of a crank arrangement

Have you considered using a NCE Switch-It? It has connections to throw the switch by a momentary push-button that toggles the point position. If you don't use DCC, you just use a separate 12-16 volt D

-------------------------------------------- Subject: RE: [WiringForDCC] Re: AC or DC Power for LEDs To: WiringForDCC@yahoogroups.com Date: Saturday, April 25, 2015, 3:22 PM Thanks Dave, For a single

Is there a concern if the LED is powered thru a lighting feature of a decoder? John Bishop -------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: [WiringForDCC] Re: AC or DC Power for LEDs To: Wiri

My layout is wired for alternate 2-rail or trolley operation, using a toggle switch to change modes. So I have a 3-wire bus. Call them wires A (for inside rail), B (outside rail), and C (trolley wire)

-------------------------------------------- Subject: [WiringForDCC] RE: Two motors To: WiringForDCC@yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, February 25, 2014, 8:19 AM Thanks for the info. It should be okay, t

I have heard that for an engine using two motors it is best to have two two separate decoders. Does anyone have any info or advise on this? Thanks. John Bishop

Another way is put the loco in a cradle, use clips to run it, and clean the spinning wheels using a Dremel with the polishing wheel. Should mention, though, I am n O scale. John Bishop From: Glenn <gh

Thanks to everyone for the advice. One concern is diversity of equipment. I have a GG1 equipped with a Magnum decoder that will handle up to 35 volt peak, and I will use those in my other locos. On th

Thanks. I will reconnect the big can condensers I was using. I have a voltmeter (and ammeter) installed as a part of my power supply. This is partly because some O scale motors can use up to 18 volts,

Hi guys, I have installed decoders in some of my O scale engines to run on a friend's DCC layout. My own layout will eventually be DCC, but I'm not there yet, and it is now powered by a homemade power

Why a dpdt? A spring loaded (momentary) spdt should do it. Common to one side of both solenoids, the hot wire to the middle post of the spdt, and the remaining side of each solenoid to opposite posts

Has anyone out there installed DCC w/ sound in an O scale Sunset GG-1? I'm new to DCC and would appreciate any guidance. Thanks, John Bishop