This may be off topic. I have sent inquiries to Atlas with out replies. I have an Atlas Silver Series HH660 locomotive which is "DCC Ready". However there are no instructions on how to accomplish this

I couldn't open the data for the 70T climax. On pages 3&4 are some tenders with DCC which might be the solution. Below is the PCB for the 80T 3-T shay which may be the same. Is this what you are looki

IMHO I would go with AC fans. They movve a lot more air than the PC fans and are usually quieter. Glenn

A simple on off (SPST) switch will also work. Install the switch in an up/down position. Up would indicate the track is powered, etc. This will eliminate a lot of extra wiring. Also I would use toggle

I think you want extruded polystyrene. It comes in several colors depending on the manufacturer. It is not covered in foil like Styrofoam. What big box stores are near you? Do ever get old, you will r

Hold the stapler so the bottom rests flat on the wire and not on an angle. That way the hammer of the stapler will not touch the wires.

I don't think its possible. I think Bachmann turnouts draw power from the track.

The intermittent running on A locomotive a sign of dirty wheels. f it occurs on several locomotives in one area try cleaning the track and check wired connections and rail joints. The voltage drop is

Check your rail joints. Soldered joints often fail, but ...... Insulated joints can become dirty from gunk trapped in them. If you ever used a track cleaner block or sand paper to clean the rails, met

IMHO The cost of a resistance soldering system is waaay over kill for wiring unless you have other uses. A simple 40 watt iron or a 100w soldering gun is sufficient for wiring. A 25w will work for ele

It also makes a good glue. I have a friend with a 30-year old layout. 90% of his switches are Atlas Custom Line with the attached switch machine. I like to call him quick draw. It seems he always a ca

NO! The motors would not run and possibly overheat with the DCC current on the rails. With the motors not running you would only be dragging the engines. The only way you could accomplish coupling the

I am going out on a tree limb, and Mark is at the trunk with a saw. Since you are at ground level you might consider using radio control with battery power. Check out: AirWire 900 from CVP http://www.

Jeff, Like Mark, I bounced around DCC. My first purchase was a box of an antique MRC Command 2000 stuff. I like it still, unfortunately it was not compatible with modern-er decoders. Then I acquired a

Try this with your wiring. Use a pointed soldering iron or point foam cutter to cut a shallow trench in the foam. press the wires into the trench with a blunt instrument like a popsicle stick, The tre

Otherwise you will be programming every item attached to the mainline output of the PowerCab. (Guilty). Wiring for DCC has instructions for making a programing track. http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track

Scott, Since your tracks are not connected to each other, you have blocks. I suggest getting two terminal strips and running feeders to each track. 18ga wire (lamp cord) should be adequate for this. U

Scott, Your wiring is sound. The basic power supply should be enough for four loco's. If you get a booster, get the DB5 Smart Booster Part # 05240027, not the standard booster. This booster is made to

Don't stop too fast, I am right behind you (71). You might also consider On30. You have the size of O-scale in the space of HO. Yes, building are larger, however there are smaller ones available. Most

We experience a similar problem on a friends 25-year old layout. The layout was built with Atlas and later with some Shinohara turnouts. DCC was employed a few years after. Because the layout was buil