Hopefully this is not out of line as I am new to this group. I have created a low cost alternative to active circuit breakers that you might be interested in. http://voltscooter.com/?page_id=134 Ken H

What sort of turnouts control the loop. If you are already using a toggle switch you can get one with two extra poles and directly control the polarity and the aligning switch at the same time. No nee

Do they make toggles that are not break before make? Rotary switches are made this way but I am not aware of toggle switches and I have been an electronics technician and engineer for 40 years. Some k

I use 12 AWG solid core without the insulating jacket (in other words ground bus wire). I run a pair of these wires near my main line. The wires are held in place and apart from each other with low co

According to their web sight the SRC8 is also discontinued. Ken Harstine Holyoke, MA

Hi Bob, The simplest way to get a fully independent supply is to purchase a "wall wart" or a "brick" supply with appropriate ratings. So each Circuitron will draw 15mA. Allow another 30mA for your DCC

You could also purchase my product and be able to fine tune the current setting: http://voltscooter.com/?page_id=134 The maximum setting of my product is lower then the 6 Ampere one mentioned previous

If you are using double insulated line cord designed for 110V then you don't have a safety issue. The cable is safe in all circumstances. The primary source of any noise that might have an effect on l

A potentially cheaper way to do this is to use a 3PDT toggle switch to control a turnout motor and the phase of the reversing loop. This assumes that there is only one way into and out of the reversin

No-ox-id A type grease continues to work very well for me. After application I remove all that I can with a Masonite type board. What is left does not attract dust and largely prevents the black crud

I use a separate 5V bus for my servos turnout controllers. I currently have about about ten installed. I drive my bus with a switching power supply. Jameco probably has the best US prices. I got mine

Graphite powder works but should only be applied where there is a significant gap between opposing polarities. I have used in on N Scale locomotives and ruined one because the axle to wheel insulator

Use a graphite stick from an artist supply shop instead of powdered graphite on the rails. I only used powder on locomotives where access to the contacting surfaces is limited. I had good success with

If these are truly zinc wheels then the gunk is zinc oxide. The rails are nickel silver. The combination of the two will cause oxidation. I is possible that No-Ox-Id will prevent this, but any exposed

Put your AC Voltmeter between the tip and ground and see if you measure anything. It is really the voltage that could cause your decoders to blow. You should check for DC voltage as well but this is l

When soldering feeders on you layout and large circuit boards there is enough leakage to ground to take care of the problem. Also the track connections of the decoder is the least susceptible to this

Vessel make a stripper that will probably do what you want. It does not remove the insulation but if the insulation is compliant it will expose a section. https://www.vesseltools.com/handtools/wirestr

I pretty much do the same thing as you but use bare copper grounding wire in what is essentially a knob and tube system. No need to strip. I use nylon cable clamps to keep the wires separated. https:/

Also known as "Music Wire" . "Do it Best" hardware affiliates have the best prices I have seen and have free shipping to their affiliates. Best Regards, Ken Harstine

The fans are in reality brush-less DC motors and therefore rely on internal electronics to make them rotate. What happens when you under drive them therefore cannot be predicted. Some fans are rated t