Date   
Re: To DCC or not to DCC...that is my question

scott toro
 

What is AHM? 




On Tuesday, April 11, 2017, 6:06 AM, Juno jtw37@... [WiringForDCC] wrote:

 

Hi Nick,
I know your feeling. I was DC when my son bought a Bachmann DCC
locomotive for me Christmas 2005 and man did I get bit. Anyway, don't
let it over whelm you, take it one step at a time. If your rail is
already broken up, that's okay. Just drop your power wires down to a
main bus to power all your track. Each block will be happy with all that
voltage.

The only real problem I had when converting is the fact that all my
turnouts are either Atlas with a few AHM turnouts. The Atlas are a bit
of a pain in the butt, whereas the AHM work better. What happens is the
Atlas are very DCC friendly, as are the AHM, but the rails are closer
with Atlas at the frog then AHM which sets you up for shorts, which will
reset your system, which it is designed to do to protect your equipment
and itself. If you don't have Atlas turnouts or similar, that is
pointless. Other turnouts are different and that will take more of an
explanation. None of it all that bad, either way. I put painters tape
over the frog points of the turnouts that give me problems and it works
fine and has lasted as much as a year and more and is still going strong.

As for converting your engines, it's not that bad either, once you
understand how it works. The majority of my engines are older engines,
as I've been into this hobby since 1974. Most of them convert and
operate pretty well. Although they don't work as well as those $100 to
$300 engines, they do serve me well. I do have 4 of the more expensive
engines, but it goes against my grain to have to pay that much. Anyway,
what ever you decide, you have to comfortable with it, no one else
matters. If DCC is your choice, this is the group to be in, as the NCE
equipment is much simpler then some of the others, as well as their
Basic decoders. wiring decoders into non DCC engines just makes them a
little bit better.
Hope my running on has helped, even if just a little bit.

Yell if you need help,
John
__________________________________________________________
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Re: To DCC or not to DCC...that is my question

dvollrath@...
 

Nick,


The more expensive NCE PowerPro system is much easier to interface with other add-on equipment as there are fewer restriction regarding computer interfacing for JMRI programming and/or 'cab' numbers used for accessory decoders, etc. Yes, one can add an SB5 'smart booster' and other stuff to expand from the PowerCab starter set. But if you have the funding, I suggest going to a PowerPro system right away.


For more DCC wiring information be sure to also check out https://sites.google.com/site/markgurries/


Oh... it is the wheels on older locos with old fashioned extra wide wheel treads and toy-like flanges that cause shorting problems on some turnouts near the frog. The turnout manufacturers forgot about this possibility when they designed their new product. The extra wide tread manages to touch two rails at opposite polarity at the same time as the loco approaches the frog.


DonV 


Re: To DCC or not to DCC...that is my question

Doug Harris <digbee@...>
 

On 12/04/2017 12:42, scott toro me_toro_toro@... [WiringForDCC] wrote:
blockquote, div.yahoo_quoted { margin-left: 0 !important; border-left:1px #715FFA solid !important; padding-left:1ex !important; background-color:white !important; } I have a question when converting a new engine to DCC I made a new engine for me is it worth it if it runs great someone told me it was not worth the money just by another engine Cerni thing I need to look for one deciding about an upgrade the engine

Scott - please send your emails in Plain Text..


Tks.


--
Cheers.


Doug Harris
Cambridge, New Zealand

Re: To DCC or not to DCC...that is my question

Mark Cartwright
 

Nick...
I set myself out of this one for a time, wanting to read what Others had to say.
===
All in all ...I must agree...Run to DCC.
====
Except for one major exception.....
>> N Scale and HO Scale Brass Steam Locomotives.
In my travels I purchased a finely detailed HO Scale Hallmark Santa Fe Valley Flyer Locomotive. There have been matching cars produced to this model also in Brass. I also own one of them. Further, I have Santa Fe Valley Flyers in Plastic both in N Scale and HO Scale. The differences are amazing.
There is a very strong part of me...
Which wants to return to my Attic Room and create an HO Scale Hand-laid layout in DC...around this ONE locomotive.
====
Good Luck in Surviving your Layout. (Not many people do...Where'd you think I got my deals?)
What ever you eventually consider and decide on...Make it so you can enjoy it; for at least some of the time. There are moments when I have become so exasperated...I have had to lay the project before me aside and seek another. Perhaps coming back to it later when my skills and attitude have changed. Took me over a year to successfully hard-wire a LokSound Decoder.
Mark

Just one of the many Foibles of DCC...
You buy an N Scale Kato NW-2. 
Everything seems fine ...So you then decide to buy a Digitrax Drop in Decoder. 
???
>> I have bought three of these from three separate N Scalers who couldn't get them back together.   Not terribly hard but it's a bit like using Chopsticks. Not everyone should go DCC.
====
Long Steam Locomotives in DCC? 
I am re-creating my own #12 Turnouts with switchable hot frogs.

PM42 (Auto Reverse use) - proximity to Booster or Auto Reverse sections?

relocatedc@...
 

Hello - I have a Digitrax PM42 that will be used to handle 3 sections needing auto reverse function. All 3 sections are in close proximity to each other (4' or so) but about 15 feet from the booster. At this time I do not have any plans for using the 4th output for either circuit breaking or auto-reverse functions. All sections are isolated electrically from any other track.


My question is - Is it better to have the PM42 near the Booster or near the 3 auto reverse sections? Or doesn't it make any difference for speed of detection/reversing?


Thanks

PROBLEM WITH A DIGITRAX SDXH166D SOUND DECODER

Mary Dufa***
 

The problem with this decoder is that it is missing the 10 pin sound wiring harness. Back a few years ago I sent Digitrax a bad decoder for replacement and they very nicely sent this one to me which I put aside until now. Upon opening the package I discovered that this wiring harness is missing. I called them about it but I was told they don't sell direct to individuals. To make a long story short, I am now stuck with a decoder that I can't use unless I can find the missing harness.

Here's the answer.........Digitrax sells a product for this decoder called a 'Power Xtender" which is basically a keep alive circuit which takes the place of the original 10 pin wire harness that I am missing. It costs $29.00 dollars which is plugged into this decoder in place of the old harness. OK, having said all this, I am hoping that someone reading this has this same decoder which they have up-graded with the Power Xtender and they have the old original harness laying around gathering dust. If so, I would like to buy your old wiring harness which would enable my decoder to work again. Of course I will pay for it or at least pay for the shipping. How about it, does any one have this item. I would even take a defective decoder that has the 10 pin harness on it. Help with this will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Richard in Vermont


Re: PM42 (Auto Reverse use) - proximity to Booster or Auto Reverse sections?

dvollrath@...
 


Either way will work and when wired appropriately does not affect detection or speed of A-R actions. But locating the PM42 near the 3 A-R sections saves DCC wiring lengths.
DonV

---In WiringForDCC@..., <relocatedc@...> wrote :

Hello - I have a Digitrax PM42 that will be used to handle 3 sections needing auto reverse function. All 3 sections are in close proximity to each other (4' or so) but about 15 feet from the booster. At this time I do not have any plans for using the 4th output for either circuit breaking or auto-reverse functions. All sections are isolated electrically from any other track.


My question is - Is it better to have the PM42 near the Booster or near the 3 auto reverse sections? Or doesn't it make any difference for speed of detection/reversing?


Thanks

Re: PM42 (Auto Reverse use) - proximity to Booster or Auto Reverse sections?

relocatedc@...
 

DonV - thanks for the assist - the reduced wiring though had crossed my mine, but my knowledge of the PM42 overrode my pocketbook thoughts prior to your answer.

Shinohara Dual Gauge Turnouts with frog juicers

Ray Trovillion
 

I still need help wiring these turnouts, I have received many suggestions, but I'm still having problems.  I have watched several youtube videos, which are helpful but don't go into any depth.  I have three dual gauge turnouts installed end to end.  I have gaped the frogs on all three and isolated the power.  The frog juicer is wired into the narrow gauge main track as shown in a video after the points, not into the frog as shown in several other videos.  Each turnout is installed with plastic rail joiners as directed on Allen Gartner's website.  Each turnout is powered using a bus connected with terminal strips.  Each Frog Jumper is receiving power but does not light up.  I have power on both sides of the turnout but have not installed Caboose Ind. manual throws as yet.  I wonder if this could be a tension problem with the points.  I also wonder if the power should be soldered to the common standard gauge rail, instead of the narrow gauge rail.  I have been screwing around with this for better than four months, and have destroyed at least two other Shinohara dual gauge turnouts, cutting gaps, soldering connections, desoldering and filling gaps.  I have at least twenty-five other dual gauge turnouts to install, and I'm nearing my wits limit on this project.  This hobby is supposed to fun, and has been for the last fifty-five years or so.  I need specific direction on where to power, where to gap, where to install Frog Juicers etc.  With everything I have read, your answers would help numerous people who are as confused as I am.


Thank You; in advance


Ray L. "Doc" Trovillion

Doctrov@...

Re: Shinohara Dual Gauge Turnouts with frog juicers

dvollrath@...
 

Doc,

Sorry to hear you have destroyed a couple of those overpriced turnouts. It can't be that difficult. Be sure to read http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm#a19. Look at the sketch and scroll above and below that listing for other hints. Isolate the 3 turnout rails where Allan indicates using insulated rail joiners. [somewhat difficult to see because the gaps are rather small as drawn.] Add a Mono Frog Juicer to each set of points and frog where Allan shows a SPDT switch. Provide a small wire jumper across the swivel points of point rails to ensure power continuity as this is probably the weakest place in the Shinohara design. Make sure that the point rails touch the stock rails when thrown as this is what trips the Frog Juicer. You do not need to cut any rail gaps. Be sure to provide a rail feeder to each section of track so that you do not rely on carrying current through rail joiners.


If all else fails... Post a sketch of your 3-turnout stretch and describe what doesn't work. You should be able to mock this up on the workbench and demonstrate that it all works properly with 3 insulated joiners per turnout and Frog Juicers by flipping the turnouts and demonstrating with a small incandescent light bulb that the frogs and frog rails are always at the proper polarity and no shorts are created according to the selected path of the throw bars.


One other comment - What are you using for a DCC booster? Is there any other electronic circuit breaker in the DCC feeder path that could possibly interfere with the Frog Juicers? The frog Juicer needs to see a momentary short pulse of current as a trigger to flip the polarity.  


 DonV



---In WiringForDCC@..., <doctrov@...> wrote :

I still need help wiring these turnouts, I have received many suggestions, but I'm still having problems.  I have watched several youtube videos, which are helpful but don't go into any depth.  I have three dual gauge turnouts installed end to end.  I have gaped the frogs on all three and isolated the power.  The frog juicer is wired into the narrow gauge main track as shown in a video after the points, not into the frog as shown in several other videos.  Each turnout is installed with plastic rail joiners as directed on Allen Gartner's website.  Each turnout is powered using a bus connected with terminal strips.  Each Frog Jumper is receiving power but does not light up.  I have power on both sides of the turnout but have not installed Caboose Ind. manual throws as yet.  I wonder if this could be a tension problem with the points.  I also wonder if the power should be soldered to the common standard gauge rail, instead of the narrow gauge rail.  I have been screwing around with this for better than four months, and have destroyed at least two other Shinohara dual gauge turnouts, cutting gaps, soldering connections, desoldering and filling gaps.  I have at least twenty-five other dual gauge turnouts to install, and I'm nearing my wits limit on this project.  This hobby is supposed to fun, and has been for the last fifty-five years or so.  I need specific direction on where to power, where to gap, where to install Frog Juicers etc.  With everything I have read, your answers would help numerous people who are as confused as I am.


Thank You; in advance


Ray L. "Doc" Trovillion

Doctrov@...

Digitrax transponding decoders

Digitrax Dad (Lancashire Fusilier)
 


There's been a lot of conversation over the years of programming and utilising Digitrax transponding. For what it is worth I was curious to try and program a new out of the bag TL1 and set up a new address and function control CVs. I have made a short how to video on it here and let me know if any questions or ideas for others too. Hope it helps someone.



Paul Hamilton
Perth, Western Australia 

 


New URL for Wiring For DCC

wirefordcc
 

05/19/17 WiringForDCC has a new URL! New users can now use: w4dcc.com This is a nickname and maps to the existing site WiringForDCC.com NOTHING is being changed about the existing site. Existing users do not need to do anything different.


Allan Gartner

Wiring For DCC

Re: New URL for Wiring For DCC

emrldsky
 

Hi Allen,

That url could certainly be thought of as a ham radio url as it matches exactly the format and legitimate call sign possibility.



Peace,

Mike G.





From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2017 11:01 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] New URL for Wiring For DCC





05/19/17 WiringForDCC has a new URL! New users can now use: <http://www.w4dcc.com/> w4dcc.com This is a nickname and maps to the existing site <http://www.wiringfordcc.com/> WiringForDCC.com NOTHING is being changed about the existing site. Existing users do not need to do anything different.



Allan Gartner

Wiring For DCC





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: New URL for Wiring For DCC

wirefordcc
 

Mike,

 

As a ham radio operator myself, I wanted to avoid taking W4DCC.  I wanted WFDCC, but someone else has it and they want $1900 to sell it to me.

 

Allan Gartner, AE2V

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2017 12:19 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: RE: [WiringForDCC] New URL for Wiring For DCC

 

 

Hi Allen,

That url could certainly be thought of as a ham radio url as it matches exactly the format and legitimate call sign possibility.

Peace,

Mike G.

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2017 11:01 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] New URL for Wiring For DCC

05/19/17 WiringForDCC has a new URL! New users can now use: <http://www.w4dcc.com/> w4dcc.com This is a nickname and maps to the existing site <http://www.wiringfordcc.com/> WiringForDCC.com NOTHING is being changed about the existing site. Existing users do not need to do anything different.

Allan Gartner

Wiring For DCC

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: New URL for Wiring For DCC

emrldsky
 

Belongs to

Gary D. Goodman, W4DCC
Shallotte, NC 28459
USA



Mike,



As a ham radio operator myself, I wanted to avoid taking W4DCC. I wanted WFDCC, but someone else has it and they want $1900 to sell it to me.



Allan Gartner, AE2V



For DCC





Hi Allen,

That url could certainly be thought of as a ham radio url as it matches exactly the format and legitimate call sign possibility.

Peace,

Mike G.

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2017 11:01 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] New URL for Wiring For DCC

05/19/17 WiringForDCC has a new URL! New users can now use: <http://www.w4dcc.com/> w4dcc.com This is a nickname and maps to the existing site <http://www.wiringfordcc.com/> WiringForDCC.com NOTHING is being changed about the existing site. Existing users do not need to do anything different.

Allan Gartner

Wiring For DCC

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: New URL for Wiring For DCC

w2msj
 

Perhaps W4DCC is also a Model Railroader?

Lynn W2MSJ

 

Wiring

cort garnier <cortgarnier@...>
 

I'm working on a small 7 x 4 layout, no reverse loops and a small yard. Is it possible to wire the layout for DCC but run it DC until my DCC equipment arrives? I want to run a locomotive to check the track, turnouts and connections. I have a Digitrax system with a PM42 Just downloaded the manuals for them.
 
Cort Garnier (210) 440-8411 cortgarnier@...

Re: Wiring

Steve Haas
 

<<I'm working on a small 7 x 4 layout, no reverse loops and a small yard. Is it possible to wire the layout for DCC but run it DC until my DCC equipment arrives? I want to run a locomotive to check the track, turnouts and connections. I have a Digitrax system with a PM42 Just downloaded the manuals for them.>>

 

Yes it is possible.  Actually, there is little to no difference between a well wired DC layout and a well wired DCC layout. Reversing sections sometimes need to be treated a bit differently, and one needs to use heavier wire for longer runs in DCC.

 

The one thing to be careful is to totally disconnect the DCC system from the track when running DC, and vice versa. I personally would take all the DC only engines of the track when running DCC, and vice versa.

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

Steve Haas

Snoqualmie, WA

Re: Wiring

Vollrath, Don <don.vollrath@...>
 

I agree with what Steve said. And once you start running your first DCC loco you will forget about running on D.C.

DonV
Sent from my phone

On May 28, 2017, at 12:06 PM, cort garnier cortgarnier@...<mailto:cortgarnier@...> [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...<mailto:WiringForDCC@...>> wrote:



I'm working on a small 7 x 4 layout, no reverse loops and a small yard. Is it possible to wire the layout for DCC but run it DC until my DCC equipment arrives? I want to run a locomotive to check the track, turnouts and connections. I have a Digitrax system with a PM42 Just downloaded the manuals for them.

Cort Garnier (210) 440-8411 cortgarnier@...<mailto:cortgarnier@...>

Re: Wiring

scott toro
 

Yes you can I believe on some of the systems you have to run it under number 10




On Sunday, May 28, 2017, 10:06 AM, cort garnier cortgarnier@... [WiringForDCC] wrote:

 

I'm working on a small 7 x 4 layout, no reverse loops and a small yard. Is it possible to wire the layout for DCC but run it DC until my DCC equipment arrives? I want to run a locomotive to check the track, turnouts and connections. I have a Digitrax system with a PM42 Just downloaded the manuals for them.
 
Cort Garnier (210) 440-8411 cortgarnier@...