Date   
Re: Reality Check Needed - See File and/or Read Description

Flash Gordon
 

Rick,


We seem to be on the same "track", I am also returning to HO after decades away. 


We both have a 5 x 9 area. Mine was first created back in the 90's with my sons. When they left the layout went up in the barn rafters for about 15 years. After retiring I decided to redo it last year.'


See drawing in (Ed S stuff).  I do not have any reverses in my 5x9, but another drawing shows where I will be adding a little more track.  The new section will have a reverse loop, a wye and a double cross over between 2 main tracks. So I have reverses to deal with.


From reading an experimenting I have decided to reverse protect whole districts. 


I started layout in the program RTS 8.0 which shows wiring conflicts and resolved those. Now I am using XTrkCAd 4.03a so I can work on clearances.


Looking at your lay out I see the reverse loop in the middle. I would put a reverse protector to the left of switch 7 and protect that whole district. Then gap all the track leading into that district.


If your are using RTS 8 you can send me the file and I can try it out and I can send you mine if your are interested.


Ed S

Re: Reality Check Needed - See File and/or Read Description

Vollrath, Don <dvollrath@...>
 

Rick,

You have done well to draw out the track plan using different colors to identify rail polarity. Note that one must traverse both the A and B double crossovers in order to reverse the direction of a train. It looks easier to me to isolate the polarity reversing issue at crossover B.

 

1.       At crossover B Provide isolating joiners at both frog rails on both of the lower turnouts leading to the diamond. The upper turnouts and the diamond of B remain fixed at the polarity of the outer loop.

2.       Determine the maximum length of a train. Follow the inner loop tracks of the figure 8 from crossover B about that same distance in both directions from B. This is where you need to place additional isolating joiners or gaps on both rails for the minimum practical length of auto-reversing track.

3.       Going CW from B, I would put insulating joiners at the point end of the siding turnout at the 6 o’clock position of the loop. If that is not far enough from B, put them at the point end of the three-way turnout, keeping the lower turnout and siding as part of the isolated loop.

4.       Going CCW from B, I would place isolating gaps past the overpass, maybe near the 5 or 6 o’clock position of the left loop of the figure 8… or even at the turnout near the 10 o’clock position.

5.       That isolated track segment, including the two lower turnouts at B, form the polarity reversing section. Wire those tracks to the AR-1 auto-reverser.

6.       All other tracks on the layout including crossover C are constant polarity. Be sure to provide plenty of track droppers for adequate DCC connections.

 

You could interlock the double crossovers of A and B, but it is probably not worth the effort. That would also prevent the opportunity of a long continuous single train run overall of the mainline tracks in both directions.

For simplicity I recommend providing a single PB or toggle switch to select ‘straight’ or X-over for all 4 motor controlled turnouts at each of the double crossovers. Then there is no need to fiddle with multiple switches.  

 

If you plan on multiple operators. It might pay in the long run to further isolate the figure 8 loop into two pieces by adding insulating joiners at B on the straight track between the two lower turnouts. For now wire those tracks up to the single AR-1. But in the future you may want to add a 2nd AR-1 for independent multiple train operations at the industry tracks while another train uses the overpass. You may also want to isolate the yard under the overpass from the A crossover, and feed it via an electronic CB protected district.

 

DonV

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of Rick Allison
Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2014 9:43 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Reality Check Needed - See File and/or Read Description

 




I'm putting together my first layout in 40+ years-and I have a couple of wiring questions. I've read through Alan's website but have not found an example that matches my situation, so before I build it I thought it best to come here for a reality check.

 

The layout is a fairly simple 5x9 consisting of two concentric loops surrounding a figure 8. There is a Walthers/Shinohara "DCC-Friendly" double-crossover connecting the concentric loops at the 6 o'clock position, but wiring that should be pretty straightforward. Where it gets tricky is this:

 

There is also a double crossover between the inner loop and the left-hand lobe of the figure 8, at about the 11 o'clock position. The top of the right-hand lobe of the 8 is elevated over/above the inner loop, and there is a double-crossover between that right-hand lobe and the outer loop at about the 1 o'clock position.

 

Both of those double-crossovers each use a Walthers/Shinohara curved turnout plus three Atlas turnouts tied together with a 45-degree crossover. (See file HORRTG Layout Polarity Plan.jpg.)

 

My main question is: With insulating joiners separating the 45-degree crossovers from their respective inner and outer loops, can I use a single auto-reverser (like a Digitrax AR1) between my booster/bus and the figure 8, thereby reversing polarity on the entire figure 8 when an engine crosses over to or from either the inner or outer loops? Or do I need an auto-reverser near each of those double-crossovers? Or...?

 

Secondary question--although it's a small layout running 3 engines tops, is it worth setting up those two crossovers in such a way as to prevent two engines hitting the reversing figure 8 at more or less the same time (wiring the switches to ensure only one crossover can diverge at a time, or wiring the crossovers with a sensor so that if one is in use the other is de-powered, for example?).

 

Sorry for the lengthy description; hopefully I've got the ''HORRTG Layout Polarity Plan' file or Picture uploaded correctly to better explain what I'm trying to do...

 

Thanks in advance for your guidance,

 

- Rick

 




Re: Coach Lighting

John Cahill
 

Thanks Everyone for your helpful suggestions. I'm learning slowly! Will now add 1N4001's + resistor in circuit. 
Can anyone add thoughts on using super capacitors in the circuit for flicker free operation instead of a battery?

Best Regards,
John

On Jan 29, 2014, at 22:11, John Cahill <johncahill25@...> wrote:

Thanks John. I'm using DCC and a strip of LEDs, about 12 diodes on strip (varies for different makes of coach).  I'm a bit unsure how to calculate current draw other than measuring it as no data sheet for LEDs in question. From that I can get wattage, right?
I also have some supercapacitors I'd like to use to eliminate flicker, but they are rated 5.6V, I believe. Is there a way to work them into the circuit or is that a bridge (no pun intended) too far?

Best Regards,
John

On Jan 29, 2014, at 19:34, john.p.dunn@... wrote:

 

John,
   Unless you add a battery (like Spectrum cars), your only option is track power. If you run your cars on DC you will have to power your lamps through a rectifier and use a capacitor to keep the brightness constant. On DCC, forget the rectifier and if you use LEDs you just need a resistor. They are their own rectifier. Bulbs draw more current usually and need a heavier wattage resistor.
   You need to know the wattage, amps and volts of your lamps and use Ohm's law to figure your resister and the total wattage tells you the size resistor you need (1/8, 1/4, 1/2 watt and the resistance in ohms.
   Another option is to put LEDs or bulbs in series to equal your track voltage, of course if one bulb goes you are in the dark.
   Hope it helps.
john

 From: John Cahill <johncahill25@...>
To: WiringForDCC@...
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 1:25 PM
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Coach Lighting



Hi! I am investigating the multiple possible methods of lighting coaches/carriages on my HO NCE controlled layout.  I have tried Flicker Free, which works fine.  I have also built small circuits using miniature rectifiers feeding LED strips.  In order to light my entire collection using any of these methods, a significant investment in time and electronic components would be required.  I have tried a small experiment using direct DCC track power to light a short strip of LED lights and found it worked fine, especially with the addition of a 1K resistor in series in the circuit.  Is this approach too simplistic or am I missing something?  Any comments appreciated!  Thanks in advance,
John Cahill




Re: DCC journey

Douglas Krahn
 

I tested several systems before purchasing my DCC system.  Personally, I really liked the NCE system over the other systems.  One of the features I liked  was the size of the controller (I have very large hands).  I think the NCE system is easier to use than the Digitrax system.  I recommend you try them all and find the one which works best for you.

Doug

From: "microrails@..."
To: WiringForDCC@...
Sent: Monday, February 3, 2014 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: [WiringForDCC] DCC journey
 
Dan hear, I have both systems.  I started of with a Digitrax Cheif, added radio.  A fiend had a NCE system and I ended up buying the NCE Power Pro with radio, added a NCE Power Cab with radio.  I ended up giving my Digitrax system to my son.  The only thing I don't like about the NCE system is The size of the hand controller. Thats my only complaint. Dan in Longview, WA.
From: "William Teeters" To: WiringForDCC@...Sent: Monday, February 3, 2014 3:43:02 PMSubject: Re: [WiringForDCC] DCC journey  
That's great but, would you consider Digitrax?. Its amongst  the most popular DCC system out there. It can be run as simply or as complex as you can imagine.
Sites you can visit are DCCfor everyone, Digitrax of course and DCC-Sound. Great enthueism!, Look at different systems before you make that purchase. Good Luck Bill Teeters Chicago,Peoria and Western ho RR. as seen on RockRail.org.

From: Bruce Bailey
To: "WiringForDCC@..."
Sent: Monday, February 3, 2014 4:25 PM
Subject: [WiringForDCC] DCC journey
 
Hello, I already built the table(4x8) and I'm stuck. I'm very patient (2 years and counting), my wife has given me the thumbs up sign. I was going to just DC but when I caught a glimpse of DCC I was hooked. Here's the question: Should I purchase a Bachmann commander 00501 DCC ready set or wait and piece together a better set? P.s. My has been so great in my endeavor I want to share in the construction. Thanks again, Bruce Bailey Sent from my iPod

Re: Reality Check Needed - See File and/or Read Description

Rick Allison
 

Don,


Thanks, you're very kind about the drawing. 


All your recommendations make good sense, and isolating at max train length in either direction from crossover B should work well, as I'm not looking to run anything over 90" max. Leaving the crossover A and the upper portions of B at matching polarity with the loops they connect to will simplify the set-up and lessen the need to worry about two trains conflicting an auto-reverser. Excellent.


Yes, I'm planning to use plenty of drops, and single controls for each of the crossovers, but am glad to hear that advice reinforced.


I will give some thought to the multi-operator scenario, though at the moment it's just me and mine. As for isolating the section under the overpass: I was under the impression that a DCC engine operating in a district that experiences a polarity reversal will continue to follow directional cab commands independent of polarity--what then is the advantage of isolating that area?


I may produce an updated drawing based on your (and Ed's) guidance and put it up to have you confirm I've understood properly, and if so, it may be of future use to anyone else crazy enough to try a layout like mine.


Again, thank you for the explanations & input. VERY helpful.


-Rick



Re: Reality Check Needed - See File and/or Read Description

Rick Allison
 

Ed,


Thank you so much for the reply. It's great that you are rescuing the old layout and incorporating in a (HUGE!) new one. Wish I had that kind of space. My old layout is long gone 


Thanks also for the guidance on placement of the reverse protector; I'll review that and Don V.'s recommendation as well before moving forward. It's exactly why I joined the group.


Alas, I am a cheap SOB and am using SCARM for my layout plans (no where near as versatile as RTS, but pretty easy to learn and 100% free in beta form) so that precludes an exchange of files; but I do appreciate the offer.


Once again, thanks for weighing in on the reversing district.



Re: Coach Lighting

John Cahill
 

That works, William.  Interesting products.  Will investigate further!
Best,
John


On Thu, Jan 30, 2014 at 7:41 PM, William E. Davies <wedavies@...> wrote:
 



Try proto87.com.



On 29-Jan-14 18:47, Douglas Krahn wrote:
 
The link to  http://www.proto87stores.com/. didn't work Only got a hosting service.

Doug K
From: Alden G. McBee
To: WiringForDCC@...
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 5:37 PM
Subject: Re: [WiringForDCC] Coach Lighting
 
Check out flex-lighting on http://www.proto87stores.com/.
—Alden McBee
On Jan 29, 2014, at 1:25 PM, John Cahill <johncahill25@...> wrote:

Hi! I am investigating the multiple possible methods of lighting coaches/carriages on my HO NCE controlled layout.  I have tried Flicker Free, which works fine.  I have also built small circuits using miniature rectifiers feeding LED strips.  In order to light my entire collection using any of these methods, a significant investment in time and electronic components would be required.  I have tried a small experiment using direct DCC track power to light a short strip of LED lights and found it worked fine, especially with the addition of a 1K resistor in series in the circuit.  Is this approach too simplistic or am I missing something?  Any comments appreciated!  Thanks in advance,
John Cahill



Re: DCC journey

B K
 

I would say play with some DCC and decide how into it you want to get.
 
But you will probably want something that can read back CV values and change more than just the locomotive address. 
 
I built a dual-purpose layout designed so I could switch back and forth from HO to On30 by changing trains and structures and intended only to use the DCC on the On30 – and that even by accident initially, I bought an old MRC system that uses a dial to select locomotive address for like $15 at a show and figured I’d try it out.  But it has a design flaw, easy to short the wires and mess it up, I paid once to have it fixed and managed to short it again.  So I figured it was time for something better, and I bought by price an MRC Prodigy Express.
 
Which is fine for the On30 (all the engines are Bachmann and use the same decoders), but as I have dabbled more into HO with DCC I find it lacks a couple of key features, primarily the ability to read back CV values. 
 
Another thing you may run into is trying to consist units to run together, different decoders will behave differently out of the box and you need to be able to adjust and tune them.  In another fluke deal, my supposed to be DC Bowser C430 came through with factory DCC Sound.   So I got a DC C630 to run with it and put an NCE decoder in.  The C430 has some momentum programmed in and my next learning experience is programming the C630 to play nice with it – right now, it starts and slips a bit until the C430 starts moving, then when I stop them the C630 stops right away and the C430 pushes on it and slips a bit until it stops. 
 
I also picked up a couple of used engines with decoders and couldn’t get them to go – I never considered they were consisted together – and without the ability to read CV’s I couldn’t ID who’s decoder it was to reset them.  I eventually got one running, the other I haven’t finished straightening out; I got it to where it will run only in one direction and only with the lights turned off.  A lot of trial and error. 
 
 
Bottom line is were I to do it over again I’d buy a little better system, and at some point I will upgrade this one; one of the few things I like about the MRC is I don’t need to buy the whole works again, just the better throttle. 
 
 
And it seems to have power enough to run trains on a roughly 10x14 semi-modular layout with a middle peninsula. 
 
 
 
Bill K.
 

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3684/7058 - Release Date: 02/03/14

Re: Coach Lighting

John Cahill
 

Hi Alden, this only shows a hosting site??

Best Regards,
John

On Jan 29, 2014, at 23:37, "Alden G. McBee" <agm@...> wrote:

 

Check out flex-lighting on www.proto87stores.com.

—Alden McBee

On Jan 29, 2014, at 1:25 PM, John Cahill <johncahill25@...> wrote:


Hi! I am investigating the multiple possible methods of lighting coaches/carriages on my HO NCE controlled layout.  I have tried Flicker Free, which works fine.  I have also built small circuits using miniature rectifiers feeding LED strips.  In order to light my entire collection using any of these methods, a significant investment in time and electronic components would be required.  I have tried a small experiment using direct DCC track power to light a short strip of LED lights and found it worked fine, especially with the addition of a 1K resistor in series in the circuit.  Is this approach too simplistic or am I missing something?  Any comments appreciated!  Thanks in advance,
John Cahill


Wiring a PIB100 with a 4pdt SWITCH

Elliott Janofsky <ejanofsky@...>
 

I’m having trouble wiring a PTB100 with a 4PDT turnout. I know th Black pr goes to the power supply of the command station of its own 15V500Am   source but do the Orange and yellow pr  go between the command station and switch. Thanks for any help . Elliott Janofsky

Re: DCC journey What is best for your Father's Son?

john
 

Guys,
   2x2 modules won't work, corners have to be 4x4 for a 2xX foot layout.
john
   rom: Carl
To: WiringForDCC@...
Sent: Tuesday, February 4, 2014 12:54 AM
Subject: Re: [WiringForDCC] DCC journey What is best for your Father's Son?



Hello:

Another way to start a layout is Modules. You could build four 2x2 corners and two 2x4 straight modules. Each module you build will be better than the last until you replace the first with something better. Till then you can move the parts around to fill any room, or your back yard. This is what I did. I had modules that could build a 14' x 42' with a turntable and a 9 track yard. I ran a lot of trains. Then my dream layout construction caught up to where I needed the turntable. I gave the modules to the local club so they had something to run. I learned a lot and gained many skills.

I have a major Digitrax control system and it works fine for me. I like the size of the UT-4 controllers and they do everything I wish. The radio system is OK too.

Good luck, Carl.





Re: DCC journey What is best for your Father's Son?

Carl
 

Hello John:

If HO layouts are built on 4x8 sheets of plywood, why can't you cut the plywood into eight 2x2 modules?

I know it might not match any module standard, but could fit some modules in a 4x8 space.

My O-27 modules matched no standards but their own. I had great fun sharing them and they met my needs at the time.

Carl.

On 2/4/2014 9:17 PM, john.p.dunn@... wrote:
 
Guys,
   2x2 modules won't work, corners have to be 4x4 for a 2xX foot layout.
john

Re: DCC journey What is best for your Father's Son?

terryintexas7@...
 

When we first started our module club we used 2x2 corners for ease of transport we later went to larger corners with bigger radius curves but 2x2 will work
Terry
 

In a message dated 2/6/2014 8:31:02 A.M. Central Standard Time, carl.blum@... writes:
 

Hello John:

If HO layouts are built on 4x8 sheets of plywood, why can't you cut the plywood into eight 2x2 modules?

I know it might not match any module standard, but could fit some modules in a 4x8 space.

My O-27 modules matched no standards but their own. I had great fun sharing them and they met my needs at the time.

Carl.

On 2/4/2014 9:17 PM, john.p.dunn@... wrote:
 
Guys,
   2x2 modules won't work, corners have to be 4x4 for a 2xX foot layout.
john

Re: Reality Check Needed - See File and/or Read Description

Vollrath, Don <dvollrath@...>
 

Rick,

You said “As for isolating the section under the overpass: I was under the impression that a DCC engine operating in a district that experiences a polarity reversal will continue to follow directional cab commands independent of polarity--what then is the advantage of isolating that area?”

You are totally correct in your understanding of train direction control with DCC. The only advantage of isolating a switching yard and powering it through a separate circuit breaker is that this is the area of the layout where operators tend to make mistakes and train cars are most likely to derail and cause short circuits. By isolating power to the tracks and switches in a yard with a separate circuit breaker (CB) district one operator can cause a track short circuit and power to trains on other parts of the layout being used by other operators or simply set up for continuous running will not be interrupted. This is a  hot issue on large club layouts. Some folks go overboard. There are arguments either way. But putting in insulated track joiners for sectionalized ‘block or district’ wiring is easy while you are first laying down the track. Cutting in track gaps and re-wiring is more difficult later, when you (may) decide to add CBs. Ditto for breaking the mainline into detection blocks for signaling.

 

DonV.

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of allison.public@...
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2014 12:41 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: RE: [WiringForDCC] Reality Check Needed - See File and/or Read Description

 




Don,

 

Thanks, you're very kind about the drawing. 

 

All your recommendations make good sense, and isolating at max train length in either direction from crossover B should work well, as I'm not looking to run anything over 90" max. Leaving the crossover A and the upper portions of B at matching polarity with the loops they connect to will simplify the set-up and lessen the need to worry about two trains conflicting an auto-reverser. Excellent.

 

Yes, I'm planning to use plenty of drops, and single controls for each of the crossovers, but am glad to hear that advice reinforced.

 

I will give some thought to the multi-operator scenario, though at the moment it's just me and mine. As for isolating the section under the overpass: I was under the impression that a DCC engine operating in a district that experiences a polarity reversal will continue to follow directional cab commands independent of polarity--what then is the advantage of isolating that area?

 

I may produce an updated drawing based on your (and Ed's) guidance and put it up to have you confirm I've understood properly, and if so, it may be of future use to anyone else crazy enough to try a layout like mine.

 

Again, thank you for the explanations & input. VERY helpful.

 

-Rick

 

 




Re: DCC journey What is best for your Father's Son?

emrldsky
 

I built a 5 x 9 foot table for my son this past Christmas. Since I knew that he would need to move it from time to time, I built 4 each modules that could be clamped together to make the 5 x 9 table, or whatever shape he wanted. Hindsight shows me that it was a really good move to go to 5 x 9 instead of taking the simpler route of a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood. Plus transport is much easier.

 

He is using Kato HO Unitrack, so breaking down the table at the table interfaces is simplified.

 

Peace,

Mike G.

 

 

 

 

When we first started our module club we used 2x2 corners for ease of transport we later went to larger corners with bigger radius curves but 2x2 will work

Terry

 

In a message dated 2/6/2014 8:31:02 A.M. Central Standard Time, carl.blum@... writes:

 

Hello John:

If HO layouts are built on 4x8 sheets of plywood, why can't you cut the plywood into eight 2x2 modules?

I know it might not match any module standard, but could fit some modules in a 4x8 space.

My O-27 modules matched no standards but their own. I had great fun sharing them and they met my needs at the time.

Carl.

On 2/4/2014 9:17 PM, john.p.dunn@... wrote:

 

Guys,

   2x2 modules won't work, corners have to be 4x4 for a 2xX foot layout.

john

 

Re: Reality Check Needed - See File and/or Read Description

Flash Gordon
 

To all:

We all know that if you have a reverse loop, it has to be longer then the length of a train with lighted cars.

I have a situation where a yard is part of a wye. This yard will have lighted passenger cars or a caboose with markers.

My thinking is to is to isolate the whole yard with the wye and use a revereing circuit breaker to control it.

Any thoughts?

Ed S

Re: Reality Check Needed - See File and/or Read Description

Vollrath, Don <dvollrath@...>
 

That is a perfectly good plan Ed. There is nothing wrong with having the entire yard part of an auto-reversing section. When is a high current condition sensed by the AR/CB, it will first try to reverse track polarity (the A-R part) then if the high current condition doesn't go away it will trip out on the overcurrent of a track short. (the CB part). All done in a split second. There may be other issues if your yard is double ended or has multiple entrances when there is more than one loco in motion at a time.

Note also that if your yard is single ended stub/storage tracks fed through a single switch on the wye the polarity can be controlled by the direction of the turnout leading into it. Use a relay or the DPDT switches inside a Tortoise. No need for an expensive auto-reverser.

DonV

-----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of Ed S
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 11:50 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: Re: [WiringForDCC] RE: Reality Check Needed - See File and/or Read Description

To all:

We all know that if you have a reverse loop, it has to be longer then the length of a train with lighted cars.

I have a situation where a yard is part of a wye. This yard will have lighted passenger cars or a caboose with markers.

My thinking is to is to isolate the whole yard with the wye and use a revereing circuit breaker to control it.

Any thoughts?

Ed S





------------------------------------

http://www.WiringForDCC.comYahoo Groups Links

Re: Reality Check Needed - See File and/or Read Description

Flash Gordon
 

Don,

Thanks for the confirmation. The wye is the only two points out of the yard district and the yard ends. I put it in so I could turn engines around.

I needed a circuit breaker for the yard and found one that included a reverser.

Ed S

At 01:14 PM 2/6/2014, you wrote:


That is a perfectly good plan Ed. There is nothing wrong with having the entire yard part of an auto-reversing section. When is a high current condition sensed by the AR/CB, it will first try to reverse track polarity (the A-R part) then if the high current condition doesn't go away it will trip out on the overcurrent of a track short. (the CB part). All done in a split second. There may be other issues if your yard is double ended or has multiple entrances when there is more than one loco in motion at a time.

Note also that if your yard is single ended stub/storage tracks fed through a single switch on the wye the polarity can be controlled by the direction of the turnout leading into it. Use a relay or the DPDT switches inside a Tortoise. No need for an expensive auto-reverser.

DonV

Re: Reality Check Needed - See File and/or Read Description

Steve Haas
 

<<We all know that if you have a reverse loop, it has to be longer then the
length of a train with lighted cars.>>

<<I have a situation where a yard is part of a wye. This yard will have
lighted passenger cars or a caboose with markers.>>

<<My thinking is to is to isolate the whole yard with the wye and use a
reversing circuit breaker to control it.>>


Ed,

Don V. has given you a couple of good answers, they'll both work just fine.

There are, however, easier ways to handle this situation.

Your thoughts and Don's responses all center around reversing the yard on
that end of the wye.

Depending on how the other two legs of the wye connect with the rest of the
trackage, it may be easier to easier to use one of the other legs of the wye
for your reversing section.

Here's a simple example:

1) take a piece of paper and draw a large circle on it. At 11 o'clock and 1
o'clock, sketch in the two turnouts that split off the main and lead to the
yard you describe. Bring them down into the center of the layout, bring
them together at the third switch of the wye, and draw the yard below that.

2) Let's call the turnout at 11 o'clock turnout "A", the turnout at 1
0'clock "B", and the turnout that leads into the yard proper "C".

3) Cut double gaps between turnout "A" and "B" and "A" and "C", just to the
right of the frog of turnout "A".

4) Now move one train length counter clockwise from turnout "A" and place
another set of double gaps there. The length of track from this set of gaps
clockwise toward the two sets of gaps just beyond turnout "A" is your
reversing section. It's one train in length, and the resulting gaps are not
likely to be violated by another train.

Take the time to sketch it out - it works pretty good.


Best regards,


Steve Haas
Snoqualmie, WA

Re: Wiring a PIB100 with a 4pdt SWITCH

Tom in Texas
 

Most of the times I have seen a reference to a 4pdt switch, it is being used to create a isolated section of track between the layout and the programming track to prevent locomotives from being connected to both the programming track and the powered main tracks of the layout at the same time

Are you trying to use it this way or to way to operate your programming track with or without your PTB100? For what it is worth my PTB100 is always connected

Tom in Texas



Tom in Texas