Date   
Re: Wiring switches for DCC

Dale Gloer
 

Tony,

are they Insulfrog or Electrofrog switches?  Also, be sure to read the section on the website about turnouts.  Here's the link.
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm

Dale Gloer

 

Re: Source for Pre-wired ON-OFF-ON Mini Toggle Switches

Puckdropper
 

In practice, an ON-OFF-ON switch works just fine.  If you leave the switch in the off position, the switch won't throw so you simply push it all the way over.  Most people are in the habit of pushing the switch all the way over anyway and don't notice that the off position exists.

Puckdropper


---In wiringfordcc@..., <r.stlaurent@...> wrote :

Hi Marvin,

What you are actually looking for are DPDT on-on switches for Tortoise control.  You do not want the center "off" position as you want to maintain current to the switch to keep tension after it is thrown.  Therefore it is either "on" one way or "on" the other way.

Ron St.Laurent
Lansing Model Railroad Club

Re: Source for Pre-wired ON-OFF-ON Mini Toggle Switches

Gregory Latiak
 

My control panel has a row of on(mom)-off-on(mom) to operate the turnouts. These switches were bought from Digikey.ca. I would have preferred to use a rotary but just didn't have the space. Equivalent to a pair of momentary buttons -- uniformly configured to close (up) and throw (down). These could have been wired directly to the DS64 but I am using CMLs DTM30s to operate my panel. If I had wanted to drive the tortoise motor directly then DPDT toggles would have worked -- just did not want to bring the wiring for every torti to the panel.

Greg Latiak

Re: Source for Pre-wired ON-OFF-ON Mini Toggle Switches

RONALD ST.LAURENT
 

Yes, you have to do what's right and what works for your application.  The layout I'm working on has local control of the turnouts and the DPDT switches are mounted right to the fascia.

Ron



On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 8:57 AM, "glatiak@... [WiringForDCC]" wrote:


 
My control panel has a row of on(mom)-off-on(mom) to operate the turnouts. These switches were bought from Digikey.ca. I would have preferred to use a rotary but just didn't have the space. Equivalent to a pair of momentary buttons -- uniformly configured to close (up) and throw (down). These could have been wired directly to the DS64 but I am using CMLs DTM30s to operate my panel. If I had wanted to drive the tortoise motor directly then DPDT toggles would have worked -- just did not want to bring the wiring for every torti to the panel.

Greg Latiak



Keeping Alive

Glenn
 

I have purchased a TCS KA2 Keep Alive unit. I bought it because the information said “and most non-TCS decoders.” The unit comes with a blue and black with white stripe wire. The instructions are sparse dealing only with TCS decoders.

 

I asked TCS how to wire to other decoders. I was told to connect the blue wire to the common ground. I presume this is the blue common for the lights and then connect the Back/blue wire to the negative side of the bridge rectifier section of the decoder. The decoders I have are sealed in shrink wrap or a plastic case. I course opening a decoder would void the warranty.

 

Now since the KA2 apparently polarized would adding a bridge in the red/black track feeds accomplish the same thing? TCS said to contact the decoder’s manufacturer. I believe it will work, but would the additional bridge affect the DCC signal?

 

Glenn

 

 

Re: Keeping Alive

Vollrath, Don <dvollrath@...>
 

Glen,

 

Adding a rectifier bridge will allow the KA to charge from track power but never discharge to supply KA power to the decoder. The KA MUST be connected to the ‘blue wire’ (+) lead and the main (-) point of the decoder. Finding the (-) connection point is problematic with most decoders as it is not brought out. Open the shrink wrap near the end where the red & black track wires enter. Look for the main rectifier diode parts to find where the non-banded ends of 2 of them are connected together. That is the main (-) connection point you want to connect to the KA.

 

DonV

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2015 10:39 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Keeping Alive

 




I have purchased a TCS KA2 Keep Alive unit. I bought it because the information said “and most non-TCS decoders.” The unit comes with a blue and black with white stripe wire. The instructions are sparse dealing only with TCS decoders.

 

I asked TCS how to wire to other decoders. I was told to connect the blue wire to the common ground. I presume this is the blue common for the lights and then connect the Back/blue wire to the negative side of the bridge rectifier section of the decoder. The decoders I have are sealed in shrink wrap or a plastic case. I course opening a decoder would void the warranty.

 

Now since the KA2 apparently polarized would adding a bridge in the red/black track feeds accomplish the same thing? TCS said to contact the decoder’s manufacturer. I believe it will work, but would the additional bridge affect the DCC signal?

 

Glenn

 

 




Keeping Alive Second Question

Glenn
 

I am pondering means to stop flickering lights and hopping over dead spots. I previously mentioned the TCS Ka units. They had sent me a link to a website showing some solutions.

 

Some of the photos showed the KA had electrolytic capacitors which are polarized. Would using a ceramic non-polarized disk accomplish the same thing? Then connected through a resistor and a bridge for LEDs.

 

If so what size? All I can find are 50v and up capacitors. These things are cheap 10/$.

 

Glenn

Re: Keeping Alive Second Question

Vollrath, Don <dvollrath@...>
 

Polarized electrolytic capacitors or combinations using polarized ultra-caps are the only types that will do any good for the intended purpose. You need thousands of micro-farads for any useful time of keep-alive carry-over power. Non-polarized ceramic or other types simply do not come that large.

DonV   

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2015 10:55 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Keeping Alive Second Question

 




I am pondering means to stop flickering lights and hopping over dead spots. I previously mentioned the TCS Ka units. They had sent me a link to a website showing some solutions.

 

Some of the photos showed the KA had electrolytic capacitors which are polarized. Would using a ceramic non-polarized disk accomplish the same thing? Then connected through a resistor and a bridge for LEDs.

 

If so what size? All I can find are 50v and up capacitors. These things are cheap 10/$.

 

Glenn




Re: Keeping Alive Second Question

george hohon3
 

Glenn,

If you're interested in momentary flicker free operation during train movements, I just installed a very simple and very cheap circuit on all of my passenger cars (26 cars) and cabooses (9) to run flicker free off of DCC track power.  As long as the cars on sitting powered track, the lights stay on.  And while the train is moving, there is absolutely no flicker.

Contact me off list and I can spend photos and circuit diagrams if you're interested.

George
hohon3@...


To: WiringForDCC@...
From: WiringForDCC@...
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2015 11:54:53 -0500
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Keeping Alive Second Question

 

I am pondering means to stop flickering lights and hopping over dead spots. I previously mentioned the TCS Ka units. They had sent me a link to a website showing some solutions.

 

Some of the photos showed the KA had electrolytic capacitors which are polarized. Would using a ceramic non-polarized disk accomplish the same thing? Then connected through a resistor and a bridge for LEDs.

 

If so what size? All I can find are 50v and up capacitors. These things are cheap 10/$.

 

Glenn


Re: Keeping Alive

george hohon3
 

Glenn,

I tried the decoder controlled light bars from Soundtraxx/Blackstone and from Walthers and was immediately turned off by their operation.  They need to be programmed (their address) and then turned on or off, and this doesn't even mention the cost for them ($30 to $35 per car).  And something no one has mentioned about these decoder controlled lights is there can be a situation that all of the cars in one consist might not turn on at the same time.  So you fiddle with the one or two that don't come on, press '5' again and they come on, and then the others go off.  Too much trouble and too many hassles for the cost.  Very simple circuits are available that will do a much better job for less than $1.50 a car.

George
in SLO, CA  


To: WiringForDCC@...
From: WiringForDCC@...
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2015 11:39:03 -0500
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Keeping Alive

 

I have purchased a TCS KA2 Keep Alive unit. I bought it because the information said “and most non-TCS decoders.” The unit comes with a blue and black with white stripe wire. The instructions are sparse dealing only with TCS decoders.

 

I asked TCS how to wire to other decoders. I was told to connect the blue wire to the common ground. I presume this is the blue common for the lights and then connect the Back/blue wire to the negative side of the bridge rectifier section of the decoder. The decoders I have are sealed in shrink wrap or a plastic case. I course opening a decoder would void the warranty.

 

Now since the KA2 apparently polarized would adding a bridge in the red/black track feeds accomplish the same thing? TCS said to contact the decoder’s manufacturer. I believe it will work, but would the additional bridge affect the DCC signal?

 

Glenn

 

 


Re: Keeping Alive

Marcus Ammann
 

Hi Glen



Do NOT connect the KA2's BLUE wire to the Common GROUND.



Connect the KA2's:



BLUE wire is connected to the Decoder's Function Common.



Black with white trace is connected to the decoder's DC Ground that's not
easily located on most decoders, see the below link for details.



If the decoder is sealed with heat shrink, you will have to partially remove
this to find the DC Negative.



You cannot do as you have asked, to fit another Bridge Rectifier to the Red
and Black wires and connect the KA2 to the + & - of the Bridge Rectifier.



For more details, see my "alive" page at:



http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/mainnorth/alive.htm



Regards

Marcus







From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]
Sent: Thursday, 3 December 2015 3:39 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Keeping Alive








I have purchased a TCS KA2 Keep Alive unit. I bought it because the
information said "and most non-TCS decoders." The unit comes with a blue and
black with white stripe wire. The instructions are sparse dealing only with
TCS decoders.



I asked TCS how to wire to other decoders. I was told to connect the blue
wire to the common ground. I presume this is the blue common for the lights
and then connect the Back/blue wire to the negative side of the bridge
rectifier section of the decoder. The decoders I have are sealed in shrink
wrap or a plastic case. I course opening a decoder would void the warranty.



Now since the KA2 apparently polarized would adding a bridge in the
red/black track feeds accomplish the same thing? TCS said to contact the
decoder's manufacturer. I believe it will work, but would the additional
bridge affect the DCC signal?



Glenn












No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7227 / Virus Database: 4477/11099 - Release Date: 12/01/15

Re: Keeping Alive Second Question

shadowrunner521
 


George:

Just read your comment on flicker free lights.  Can you send me photos & diagrams for the circuits you are using.  Please send to - shadowrunner521@... - thanks much for your efforts and willingness to share your knowledge.

Bernie



On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 1:54 PM, "george hohon3 hohon3@... [WiringForDCC]" wrote:


 
Glenn,

If you're interested in momentary flicker free operation during train movements, I just installed a very simple and very cheap circuit on all of my passenger cars (26 cars) and cabooses (9) to run flicker free off of DCC track power.  As long as the cars on sitting powered track, the lights stay on.  And while the train is moving, there is absolutely no flicker.

Contact me off list and I can spend photos and circuit diagrams if you're interested.

George
hohon3@...


To: WiringForDCC@...
From: WiringForDCC@...
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2015 11:54:53 -0500
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Keeping Alive Second Question

 

I am pondering means to stop flickering lights and hopping over dead spots. I previously mentioned the TCS Ka units. They had sent me a link to a website showing some solutions.
 
Some of the photos showed the KA had electrolytic capacitors which are polarized. Would using a ceramic non-polarized disk accomplish the same thing? Then connected through a resistor and a bridge for LEDs.
 
If so what size? All I can find are 50v and up capacitors. These things are cheap 10/$.
 
Glenn



Re: Keeping Alive

Vollrath, Don <dvollrath@...>
 

Marcus, your site doesn't like Microsoft IExplorer any more?
DonV

-----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2015 4:04 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: RE: [WiringForDCC] Keeping Alive

Hi Glen



Do NOT connect the KA2's BLUE wire to the Common GROUND.



Connect the KA2's:



BLUE wire is connected to the Decoder's Function Common.



Black with white trace is connected to the decoder's DC Ground that's not easily located on most decoders, see the below link for details.



If the decoder is sealed with heat shrink, you will have to partially remove this to find the DC Negative.



You cannot do as you have asked, to fit another Bridge Rectifier to the Red and Black wires and connect the KA2 to the + & - of the Bridge Rectifier.



For more details, see my "alive" page at:



http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/mainnorth/alive.htm



Regards

Marcus







From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]
Sent: Thursday, 3 December 2015 3:39 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Keeping Alive








I have purchased a TCS KA2 Keep Alive unit. I bought it because the information said "and most non-TCS decoders." The unit comes with a blue and black with white stripe wire. The instructions are sparse dealing only with TCS decoders.



I asked TCS how to wire to other decoders. I was told to connect the blue wire to the common ground. I presume this is the blue common for the lights and then connect the Back/blue wire to the negative side of the bridge rectifier section of the decoder. The decoders I have are sealed in shrink wrap or a plastic case. I course opening a decoder would void the warranty.



Now since the KA2 apparently polarized would adding a bridge in the red/black track feeds accomplish the same thing? TCS said to contact the decoder's manufacturer. I believe it will work, but would the additional bridge affect the DCC signal?



Glenn












No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7227 / Virus Database: 4477/11099 - Release Date: 12/01/15



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------
Posted by: "Marcus Ammann" <mammann@...>
------------------------------------

http://www.WiringForDCC.com
------------------------------------

Yahoo Groups Links

Re: Keeping Alive

Marcus Ammann
 

Hi Don

The problem is Internet Explorer does not like my pages and I don't know how
to fix it. I'm just a model railroaded not a computer guru, luckily someone
told me about "Compatibility" mode or use another Browser, otherwise I would
have had to "pull the pin" on the web site.

In Internet Explorer set "Compatibility View" via the "Tools" menu (ALT + X)
to view my site.

Ore use another Browser like Google Chrome etc.

Regards
Marcus

-----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]
Sent: Thursday, 3 December 2015 9:42 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: RE: [WiringForDCC] Keeping Alive

Marcus, your site doesn't like Microsoft IExplorer any more?
DonV

-----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2015 4:04 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: RE: [WiringForDCC] Keeping Alive

Hi Glen



Do NOT connect the KA2's BLUE wire to the Common GROUND.



Connect the KA2's:



BLUE wire is connected to the Decoder's Function Common.



Black with white trace is connected to the decoder's DC Ground that's not
easily located on most decoders, see the below link for details.



If the decoder is sealed with heat shrink, you will have to partially remove
this to find the DC Negative.



You cannot do as you have asked, to fit another Bridge Rectifier to the Red
and Black wires and connect the KA2 to the + & - of the Bridge Rectifier.



For more details, see my "alive" page at:



http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/mainnorth/alive.htm



Regards

Marcus







From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]
Sent: Thursday, 3 December 2015 3:39 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Keeping Alive








I have purchased a TCS KA2 Keep Alive unit. I bought it because the
information said "and most non-TCS decoders." The unit comes with a blue and
black with white stripe wire. The instructions are sparse dealing only with
TCS decoders.



I asked TCS how to wire to other decoders. I was told to connect the blue
wire to the common ground. I presume this is the blue common for the lights
and then connect the Back/blue wire to the negative side of the bridge
rectifier section of the decoder. The decoders I have are sealed in shrink
wrap or a plastic case. I course opening a decoder would void the warranty.



Now since the KA2 apparently polarized would adding a bridge in the
red/black track feeds accomplish the same thing? TCS said to contact the
decoder's manufacturer. I believe it will work, but would the additional
bridge affect the DCC signal?



Glenn












No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7227 / Virus Database: 4477/11099 - Release Date: 12/01/15







------------------------------------
Posted by: "Marcus Ammann" <mammann@...>
------------------------------------

http://www.WiringForDCC.com
------------------------------------

Yahoo Groups Links





------------------------------------
Posted by: "Vollrath, Don" <DVollrath@...>
------------------------------------

http://www.WiringForDCC.com
------------------------------------

Yahoo Groups Links





-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7227 / Virus Database: 4477/11100 - Release Date: 12/02/15

Re: Keeping Alive Second Question

Steven Haworth
 

I'd be interested in the circuit as well - haworth7@...


- Steven Haworth
RGS history - http://www.rgsrr.info/
Blog - http://rgsrr.blogspot.com/



If you're interested in momentary flicker free operation during train movements, I just installed a very simple and very cheap circuit on all of my passenger cars (26 cars) and cabooses (9) to run flicker free off of DCC track power.  As long as the cars on sitting powered track, the lights stay on.  And while the train is moving, there is absolutely no flicker.

Contact me off list and I can spend photos and circuit diagrams if you're interested.

George
hohon3@...

Re: Keeping Alive Second Question

Glenn
 

I see your point. However, I can get an 850uF 50V ceramic at 10/.90. That should be sufficient to steady the flickering.

 

I have also seen 3300 and 4700uF but in the 400 and 500V range.

 

Glenn

 

 

 


From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2015 12:03
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: RE: [WiringForDCC] Keeping Alive Second Question

 




Polarized electrolytic capacitors or combinations using polarized ultra-caps are the only types that will do any good for the intended purpose. You need thousands of micro-farads for any useful time of keep-alive carry-over power. Non-polarized ceramic or other types simply do not come that large.

DonV   

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2015 10:55 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Keeping Alive Second Question

 



I am pondering means to stop flickering lights and hopping over dead spots. I previously mentioned the TCS Ka units. They had sent me a link to a website showing some solutions.

 

Some of the photos showed the KA had electrolytic capacitors which are polarized. Would using a ceramic non-polarized disk accomplish the same thing? Then connected through a resistor and a bridge for LEDs.

 

If so what size? All I can find are 50v and up capacitors. These things are cheap 10/$.

 

Glenn



 


Re: Keeping Alive Second Question

Max Maginness
 

Could you reference the source.  I think you are looking at a 850 picofarad (pF) capacitor, not microfarads – same with the others.  

 

Max

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 7:14 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: RE: [WiringForDCC] Keeping Alive Second Question

 

 

I see your point. However, I can get an 850uF 50V ceramic at 10/.90. That should be sufficient to steady the flickering.

 

I have also seen 3300 and 4700uF but in the 400 and 500V range.

 

Glenn

 

 

 


From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2015 12:03
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: RE: [WiringForDCC] Keeping Alive Second Question

 





Polarized electrolytic capacitors or combinations using polarized ultra-caps are the only types that will do any good for the intended purpose. You need thousands of micro-farads for any useful time of keep-alive carry-over power. Non-polarized ceramic or other types simply do not come that large.

DonV   

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2015 10:55 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Keeping Alive Second Question

 




I am pondering means to stop flickering lights and hopping over dead spots. I previously mentioned the TCS Ka units. They had sent me a link to a website showing some solutions.

 

Some of the photos showed the KA had electrolytic capacitors which are polarized. Would using a ceramic non-polarized disk accomplish the same thing? Then connected through a resistor and a bridge for LEDs.

 

If so what size? All I can find are 50v and up capacitors. These things are cheap 10/$.

 

Glenn




 

 


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7227 / Virus Database: 4460/11025 - Release Date: 11/18/15
Internal Virus Database is out of date.

Re: Keeping Alive Second Question

john
 

Me too, I am curious. Is it on the WiringForDCC site. could you just give us the address.
john



On Thursday, December 3, 2015 9:23 AM, "Steven Haworth haworth7@... [WiringForDCC]" wrote:




I'd be interested in the circuit as well - haworth7@...


- Steven Haworth
RGS history - http://www.rgsrr.info/
Blog - http://rgsrr.blogspot.com/



If you're interested in momentary flicker free operation during train movements, I just installed a very simple and very cheap circuit on all of my passenger cars (26 cars) and cabooses (9) to run flicker free off of DCC track power.  As long as the cars on sitting powered track, the lights stay on.  And while the train is moving, there is absolutely no flicker.

Contact me off list and I can spend photos and circuit diagrams if you're interested.

George
hohon3@...





Using two different power suplies on the same layout

Allan Kershaw <pngnrst@...>
 

I recently joined a modular club and I am building a module for it.  Unfortunately my home system is based on NCE and the club uses Digitrax.  The club says that this is not a problem.  I just run the main lines on the club supply and  run the local track on my supply.  The question comes up when I want to run from one zone to the other.  The simple answer seems to be to have a zone that is switchable between both.  I then run the loco into the buffer zone from the local zone and stop it.  I then switch the supplies and then run using the other supply.  Does anyone see any problems with this?  My concern is what if a loco were run from the NCE zone to the Digitrax zone.  Would this cause any shorting or other problems within the supplies?  Does there need to  be a dead section between the zones as there is when having a program track integrated with the main line? 

Thank you
Allan Kershaw

Common Booster Ground

williamhuebner58@...
 

Hello All: In the CVP documentation there is a pdf called "Implementing A Common Booster Ground - Bonding". It is clear, except it does not say whether or not the #18 wire which runs between multiple ZoneMasters is it self grounded to say a water pipe, or whether it just runs as a daisy chain without any outside connections. Any thoughts? Secondly, in other dcc sites people discuss whether or not to ground your dcc system. I see nothing about this in the CVP documentation, does this mean it is not something which you need to pay attention to? Thanks in advance. Bill Huebner.