Date   
Re: Older Shinohara Turnouts

Brian Eiland
 

Hi George Galyon,
You seem to be a rather expert on these Shinohara crossovers, so I thought I would double check with you.

I have 2 older style DOUBLE crossovers, and 4 older style SINGLE crossovers,....all of them have the 'double crossbar features'.

I had sought to utilize one of the DOUBLES at a particular spot on my layout,...and I had read your excellent PDF on Allan's DCC site about making this turnout work in DCC mode WITHOUT significant modifications.

I have now found that I have room to install 2 in-line SINGLE crossovers instead of the DOUBLE. I believe it would be safer/less troublesome down the road if I utilized this 'singles' configuration rather than the 'double'?

Are there modifications needed on these singles to use in DCC?...or modifications that might be recommended??

https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/36467?page=3#comment-392051

Regards, Brian

Wiring For DCC Website Update

wirefordcc
 

Several new topics have been added to the Wiring for DCC website.  You can find them in the What's New section at: http://www.wiringfordcc.com/wirefordcc_toc.htm#a1

The new topics are:
1.  DCC safe soldering equipment
2.  Soldering to Micro Engineering frogs by James Exler
3.  Alternatives to tail light bulbs

More on the way!

Allan Gartner
Wiring For DCC

Reverse Loop Question

Wayne Swearingen
 

Looking at the photo's there should almost be a groups page dedicated to reverse loops! 

We're in the process of converting to DCC and in deliberations on how best to wire/block the loops we have. There is only one mainline running around the loop but there are staging tracks off of it. I was planning to detect occupancy on the mainline but not the staging. If we do detect staging the BDL168 will work with one zone-section setup for auto reverse, I'll have three sets of tracks to detect and the fourth can just die or possibly be used elsewhere within the loop if need be, may splitting the mainline into two detected zones. If we just do the mainline I'll need to purchase a BXPA1 unit to detect it as one. 

What do the experts here say as far as gapping & setting up the reverse loop? 

https://groups.io/g/w4dccqa/album?id=92512

Re: Reverse Loop Question

Don Vollrath
 

If your photo is accurate, there are 3 relatively independent reversing loops. The Red outside loop and each of the 2 Green indicated loops. AND a possible wye toward the center (the track sketch paths are not perfectly clear.) The yellow marking for planned track gaps would end up with the green reversing loops coupled inside the red loop. I would move the gaps for the Red outside loop to be so that only that track loop is isolated. Then place other gaps to isolate each of the other green loops from each other where they break apart from the turnout exits. This move would best utilize 3  independent A-R units, each powered directly from the mainline feeder bus. 2 separate (green) loops may not be necessary depending on the actual length and planned movement restriction of trains on those staging tracks. 
In this manner you can add independent track occupancy detection on leads to these 3 areas after each of the A-R units if desired.

The wye in the center also needs to be carefully looked at for reversing issues. It creates a very short reversing area where a loco or train can enter from the main line, go through the wye and return to the mainline in the opposite direction. ie - a 4th reversing loop independent of all others. This in itself may require yet another A-R unit with track gaps placed to prevent one A-R area from being adjacent to another. Knowing or restricting train length through this path will be paramount for success 

Can you quantify any restricted movements for future trains at this end of the layout?

DonV 

Peco SL-99 3 Way Turnout

Dennis DeGroff
 

Hey everyone.  New to the group and wiring my first layout in DCC.  In my yard district, I have wired two Peco SL-99 3 way turnouts with the toe end opposite each other and joining from the right side of one to the right side of the other.  I installed the units with conductive rail joiners on each of the three legs exiting both units and soldered the joiners only on the toe end of the turnouts.  I have been having a problem with a locomotive shorting out (using PM42 Digitrax for power management) when going from one SL-99 to the other SL-99, but no problems going to either of the other two legs of the turnout.  Both the turnouts are on the same power district.  In reviewing the Peco information on the SL-99 packaging, I noticed that for DCC operations, they suggest placing insulated rail joiners on the inside 4 legs.  Could this be part of my problem?  If so, can I cut an gap between the sections to basically isolate the tracks without the need for the insulated joiners?  I have checked the wiring below the layout and also with the 9v buzzer check when the wiring is disconnected from the PM42 and all checks out good.  The loco is a Walthers Proto 2000.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  Dennis DeGroff, Fort Wayne, IN

Re: Peco SL-99 3 Way Turnout

Nick Ostrosky
 

I have two of these as well but not in a reversing loop.  You are correct that Peco recommends insulating the four inside legs, which I did, and have experienced no problems in operation.  I would think this would hold true regardless of the reversing section because of left/right rail issues and how Peco recommends wiring the turnout to power those rails.  As to simply cutting gaps, yes, you could, but that could invite arcing, alignment, or other issues that may be less than optimal.  Nick your nearby neighbor in Kalamazoo, MI

Re: Peco SL-99 3 Way Turnout

Dennis DeGroff
 

Hey Nick.  Thanks for the response.  My units are not in a reversing loop, as they just butt up to each other in the yard.  Since I have not added ballast yet, I am going to pull up the track and turnouts so that I can add the insulated rail joiners as Peco recommends.  Hopefully that will take care of the issue.

Best Regards, Dennis.

Wiring For DCC Update

wirefordcc
 

I have added a topic on the Peco 3-Way turnouts to my website.  You can get to it, along with other recent topics, in the What's New section of my website at:

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/wirefordcc_toc.htm#a1

Spoiler alert:  This turnout appears to be only offered in code 100.

Allan Gartner
Wiring For DCC

Re: Wiring For DCC Update

Dale Gloer
 

There is also a 3 way turnout in Peco code 75 electrofrog style.  However, unlike the code 100 ones it is an asymmetric design.  Therefore they can be wired just like one would do for 2 turnouts connected together and it does not require care in order of changing point positions since the points do not overlap.

Dale Gloer

Re: Wiring For DCC Update

wirefordcc
 

Thanks, Dale, I’ll try to learn more about it.

 

Allan

 

 

From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> On Behalf Of Dale Gloer
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2019 10:37 AM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Wiring For DCC Update

 

There is also a 3 way turnout in Peco code 75 electrofrog style.  However, unlike the code 100 ones it is an asymmetric design.  Therefore they can be wired just like one would do for 2 turnouts connected together and it does not require care in order of changing point positions since the points do not overlap.

Dale Gloer

QSI Decoder Wiring Information

Wil Davis
 

My friend has an early BLI PRR M1 that has a QSI decoder.  I am unable to read the decoder, we have tried resetting the decoder with no luck.  All it will do is sit on the track and make idle steam engine sounds.  None of the functions work, headlight, bell etc.  Nor does it move.  He has asked me to replace the decoder with a current steam sound decoder.  I told him I would, if I could do it without taking the engine apart.  The tender has the Decoder that appears to be a "motherboard" that it plugs into.  It connects to to the engine with a six wire double ended female connector.  I have determined that the outside wires are track pickup.  However, I am unable to determine what the other four are other than two obviously go to the motor and two go to the headlight.  I have tried everything I can think of to figure them out without blowing the headlight.  I know I could probably hook a 9v battery to the motor and determine if it works.  However, if I guess wrong and connect it to the headlight I may blow it. I once saw wiring diagrams for some engine/decoders, but am not able to find it. 

Anyone have any idea where i could find this information or know what the middle four wires go to?

Thanks,
Wil

Re: QSI Decoder Wiring Information

Craig Zeni
 

It may be stuck in its "disconnected" or its idle mode.  I can't recall what function button it's on... hopefully he still has the manual that will tell him what to try.

Craig Zeni
Cary, NC
Despatched from my infernal Android


On Mon, Jul 22, 2019, 17:05 Wil Davis <wdavis5069@...> wrote:
My friend has an early BLI PRR M1 that has a QSI decoder.  I am unable to read the decoder, we have tried resetting the decoder with no luck.  All it will do is sit on the track and make idle steam engine sounds.  None of the functions work, headlight, bell etc.  Nor does it move.  He has asked me to replace the decoder with a current steam sound decoder.  I told him I would, if I could do it without taking the engine apart.  The tender has the Decoder that appears to be a "motherboard" that it plugs into.  It connects to to the engine with a six wire double ended female connector.  I have determined that the outside wires are track pickup.  However, I am unable to determine what the other four are other than two obviously go to the motor and two go to the headlight.  I have tried everything I can think of to figure them out without blowing the headlight.  I know I could probably hook a 9v battery to the motor and determine if it works.  However, if I guess wrong and connect it to the headlight I may blow it. I once saw wiring diagrams for some engine/decoders, but am not able to find it. 

Anyone have any idea where i could find this information or know what the middle four wires go to?

Thanks,
Wil

Re: QSI Decoder Wiring Information

Clark Propst
 

I’d contact BLI. They should be able to supply a drawing for the engine and even offer advice.
 
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa
 

From: Wil Davis
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2019 4:01 PM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: [w4dccqa] QSI Decoder Wiring Information
 
My friend has an early BLI PRR M1 that has a QSI decoder.  I am unable to read the decoder, we have tried resetting the decoder with no luck.  All it will do is sit on the track and make idle steam engine sounds.  None of the functions work, headlight, bell etc.  Nor does it move.  He has asked me to replace the decoder with a current steam sound decoder.  I told him I would, if I could do it without taking the engine apart.  The tender has the Decoder that appears to be a "motherboard" that it plugs into.  It connects to to the engine with a six wire double ended female connector.  I have determined that the outside wires are track pickup.  However, I am unable to determine what the other four are other than two obviously go to the motor and two go to the headlight.  I have tried everything I can think of to figure them out without blowing the headlight.  I know I could probably hook a 9v battery to the motor and determine if it works.  However, if I guess wrong and connect it to the headlight I may blow it. I once saw wiring diagrams for some engine/decoders, but am not able to find it. 

Anyone have any idea where i could find this information or know what the middle four wires go to?

Thanks,
Wil

Re: QSI Decoder Wiring Information

Tom O'Hara
 

You could also apply 3 volts with a series set of batteries. Not enough to hurt the bulb.

... Tom

On Jul 22, 2019, at 4:17 PM, Clark Propst <cepropst@q.com> wrote:

I’d contact BLI. They should be able to supply a drawing for the engine and even offer advice.
 
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa
 
From: Wil Davis
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2019 4:01 PM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: [w4dccqa] QSI Decoder Wiring Information
 
My friend has an early BLI PRR M1 that has a QSI decoder.  I am unable to read the decoder, we have tried resetting the decoder with no luck.  All it will do is sit on the track and make idle steam engine sounds.  None of the functions work, headlight, bell etc.  Nor does it move.  He has asked me to replace the decoder with a current steam sound decoder.  I told him I would, if I could do it without taking the engine apart.  The tender has the Decoder that appears to be a "motherboard" that it plugs into.  It connects to to the engine with a six wire double ended female connector.  I have determined that the outside wires are track pickup.  However, I am unable to determine what the other four are other than two obviously go to the motor and two go to the headlight.  I have tried everything I can think of to figure them out without blowing the headlight.  I know I could probably hook a 9v battery to the motor and determine if it works.  However, if I guess wrong and connect it to the headlight I may blow it. I once saw wiring diagrams for some engine/decoders, but am not able to find it. 

Anyone have any idea where i could find this information or know what the middle four wires go to?

Thanks,
Wil

Re: QSI Decoder Wiring Information

Al Silverstein
 

A friend of mine reported the same situation with his BLI, B&O F7B engine which had a QSI Quantum decoder. Looking through the manual I missed the comment about the motor going into stand bye.
 
I noted on another list to which I am a member someone saying they had the similar problem a while back. The solution noted on this other list was to press the F6 button twice quickly.
 
I placed the B&O engine on my test layout, pressed the F6 button twice quickly, the engine jerked, and the motor would again function as it should.
 
A close review of the QSI decoder manual indicated that pressing twice the F6 button quickly flipped them motor control on and off. If on the motor control would turn off and if off the motor control would turn back on.
 
You might want to try the above. If just may cure the problem.
 
Al Silverstein
 

From: Wil Davis
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2019 5:01 PM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: [w4dccqa] QSI Decoder Wiring Information
 
My friend has an early BLI PRR M1 that has a QSI decoder.  I am unable to read the decoder, we have tried resetting the decoder with no luck.  All it will do is sit on the track and make idle steam engine sounds.  None of the functions work, headlight, bell etc.  Nor does it move.  He has asked me to replace the decoder with a current steam sound decoder.  I told him I would, if I could do it without taking the engine apart.  The tender has the Decoder that appears to be a "motherboard" that it plugs into.  It connects to to the engine with a six wire double ended female connector.  I have determined that the outside wires are track pickup.  However, I am unable to determine what the other four are other than two obviously go to the motor and two go to the headlight.  I have tried everything I can think of to figure them out without blowing the headlight.  I know I could probably hook a 9v battery to the motor and determine if it works.  However, if I guess wrong and connect it to the headlight I may blow it. I once saw wiring diagrams for some engine/decoders, but am not able to find it. 

Anyone have any idea where i could find this information or know what the middle four wires go to?

Thanks,
Wil

Re: QSI Decoder Wiring Information

Wil Davis
 

Thanks for the suggestions.  He has the abbreviated manual that came with the engine, but it offered no help.  I will try F6. 

After I posted my question, being impatient, I decided to try applying power to a couple of the pins to see what happened and found out that in addition to track power being on the outside pins, the next two were motor power as it ran across my workbench.  I next connected to the center two and verified that they powered the headlight, just before I got over zealous and burned it out.  I was really upset, but found out the if I remove the smoke box front the headlight is on a plug so it's a relatively simple task to replace the bulb.

Thanks for the suggestions I will report back if I can revive it with F6.

Wil

Re: QSI Decoder Wiring Information

Mitchell Mercante
 

Wil,

The QSI decoder manual for steam locos is online and downloadable.  Just Google "QSI decoder manual" and it's among the first entries.

Regards,

Mitch Mercante

On Tuesday, July 23, 2019, 12:06:14 PM CDT, Wil Davis <wdavis5069@...> wrote:


Thanks for the suggestions.  He has the abbreviated manual that came with the engine, but it offered no help.  I will try F6. 

After I posted my question, being impatient, I decided to try applying power to a couple of the pins to see what happened and found out that in addition to track power being on the outside pins, the next two were motor power as it ran across my workbench.  I next connected to the center two and verified that they powered the headlight, just before I got over zealous and burned it out.  I was really upset, but found out the if I remove the smoke box front the headlight is on a plug so it's a relatively simple task to replace the bulb.

Thanks for the suggestions I will report back if I can revive it with F6.

Wil

Re: QSI Decoder Wiring Information

Wil Davis
 

Thanks for the recommendation to try F6. I selected it 4 times and the decoder now works normally. I really appreciate the tip.

Wil

Re: QSI Decoder Wiring Information

Craig Zeni
 

On Jul 24, 2019, at 11:02 PM, Wil Davis wrote:

Thanks for the recommendation to try F6. I selected it 4 times and the decoder now works normally. I really appreciate the tip.
Wil,

There's a way to disable this 'feature' via CVs

For steam, change the CVs in order listed below
CV49=11
CV50=0
CV53=215

For diesel, change the CVs in order listed below
CV49=11
CV50=1
CV53=12

Read back and write down those CVs before changing them in case there's a quirk in your decoder; can never be too safe...

Craig Zeni
Cary NC

Hello, I am a NEWBIE. Can you please tell me how to get a CD-ROM of the website?

John McCarthy
 

                                                      Thank you and take care,   John