Date   
Re: Wiring a DCC layout

David McBrayer
 

re attaching a File or a Picture. 
Groups.io tends to prune those off of posts, the better way would be to log into the main site, create a folder using your name in the respective tab and then upload the image or file.  When you have uploaded the content, copy the URL for the content and paste that I into your posting.  That done, a reader need only click on the link to see your content.  It would be easier to refer back to from a new referral.  

Dave McBrayer 
Castro Valley, CA 


On Feb 27, 2019, at 08:25, digitaldanm@... wrote:

Paul,

Did you intend to attach a file? I'm in a similar situation to you (total newbie) and would love to see your layout and hear folks' responses.

Dan

Re: Wiring a DCC layout LAYOUT ATTACHED THIS TIME

Paul Cole <Lead_horse@...>
 

Oh no what an idiot I obviously missed that! Cheers Dan they are attached to this message
From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> on behalf of digitaldanm@... <digitaldanm@...>
Sent: 27 February 2019 16:25:07
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Wiring a DCC layout
 
Paul,

Did you intend to attach a file? I'm in a similar situation to you (total newbie) and would love to see your layout and hear folks' responses.

Dan

My track layout

Paul Cole <Lead_horse@...>
 

Hi Paul the idiot here I totally forgot to attach my layout plan to my original message sorry.
Paul

Re: Wiring a DCC layout

Paul Cole <Lead_horse@...>
 

Thank you Dave I had no idea. I have tried going too the "files" tab on the left of this page and in it when I put my cursor over the new folder button it turns too a no entry sign and won't let me click it so I'm not sure what to do.

Re: Wiring a DCC layout

digitaldanm@...
 

Dave, when you mentioned "log into the main site" are you referring to Groups.io or to some other site? Sorry for the newbie question.

Dan

Re: Wiring a DCC layout

vincent marino
 

My brother I'm fairly new myself however I'm a year plus into it. I never heard of the components you're using so I'm keeping my comments to the basics. First design your layout with power districts that will help you isolate the future shorts. I isolated the main lines, turnouts, yards, turntable, etc. Secondly, use 14awg wire for power district buses, 18awg wire for track wire drops to the bus and connect every piece of track to the bus. Soldier or make sure each track joiner is flawless. Most problems result from that connection. Finally once the layout track is connected and the electric voltage is constant throughout, your next challenge is to make sure the locomotives and rolling stock run smoothly forward and backwards.  I wouldn't permanently attach track until your happy with the operation. Once you're at that stage you can advance into JMRI. At that point tweaking your locos to speed matching will bring your operation to another level of pleasure, because trains will rarely derail except for the human error of course. Hope I helped you. Don't be discouraged and make YouTube your friend. 


On Wed, Feb 27, 2019, 5:38 AM Paul Cole <Lead_horse@...> wrote:
Hi I am new too this group and was hoping someone could tell me how to wire up the layout shown in the attachments please. I am completely new too model railways and DCC and also a complete novice with electrical (I know not the best combination). I will be using peco setrack 100 (am I correct in thinking in that I will only have a choice of insulfrogs), all my points and the turntable will be under manual control and the layout will be on a 9ft x 4ft baseboard controlled by a gaugemaster prodigy advance2.
Thank you for any help anyone can provide it will be whole heartedly appreciated.
Paul

Re: Wiring a DCC layout

Alex Hempel
 
Edited

Yes, Peco Setrack will only give you insulfrog turnouts. It shouldn't be too much of a problem. You can probably mix in Streamline Code 100 Electrofrogs if you really want to, but that may make your track plan a bit more complex, as they have different lengths and radii.

When you say the turnouts and turntable will be under manual control, does that mean you won't electrify them at all, or that you'll control them using standard pushbuttons and not DCC?

Re: Wiring a DCC layout

David McBrayer
 

Dan, 
I meant the location of this discussion group, ‘w4dccqa@groups.io’ 

It turns out the pictures tab in the left column. does NOT have a ‘create new folder’ button.  However, the Files tab in the left column Does have a create new folder and an Upload File button.  Create a new folder under the Files tab using suitably descriptive terms or your name.  Review the names used for the other folders for ideas.  Once you have decided on a folder name click the Create Folder button and follow the prompts.  Upon completion, click the upload File button and follow the prompts.  Pictures have been uploaded under the Files Tab.  “*.JPG” filetypes seem to be the most common image filetype used.  Having done this once, you will appreciate its simplicity.  

—Dave McBrayer 

On Feb 27, 2019, at 17:21, digitaldanm@... wrote:

Dave, when you mentioned "log into the main site" are you referring to Groups.io or to some other site? Sorry for the newbie question.

Dan

Re: Wiring a DCC layout

David McBrayer
 

A problem under the Files and Photos tab in the left column.  What I thought was an active blue button is not blue enough to be functional.  The other groups I participate in at this domain allow user created folders and photo albums. 

My question for the administrators: What is the ACTUAL procedure for a User/Member to create a new File Folder as a means of demonstrating a challenge or concept?  Does the creation and/or upload have to be performed or authorized by an Administrator?  Under the Help icon in the group header there is no content re adding Files or Photos.  It merely shows the tabs.  

—Dave McBrayer 


On Feb 27, 2019, at 23:00, David McBrayer <d_mcbrayer@...> wrote:

Dan, 
I meant the location of this discussion group, ‘w4dccqa@groups.io’ 

It turns out the pictures tab in the left column. does NOT have a ‘create new folder’ button.  However, the Files tab in the left column Does have a create new folder and an Upload File button.  Create a new folder under the Files tab using suitably descriptive terms or your name.  Review the names used for the other folders for ideas.  Once you have decided on a folder name click the Create Folder button and follow the prompts.  Upon completion, click the upload File button and follow the prompts.  Pictures have been uploaded under the Files Tab.  “*.JPG” filetypes seem to be the most common image filetype used.  Having done this once, you will appreciate its simplicity.  

—Dave McBrayer 

On Feb 27, 2019, at 17:21, digitaldanm@... wrote:

Dave, when you mentioned "log into the main site" are you referring to Groups.io or to some other site? Sorry for the newbie question.

Dan

Re: Wiring a DCC layout

Paul Cole <Lead_horse@...>
 

Thank you. Yeah turnouts and turntable will be controlled old fashioned way, by my hand moving them
From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> on behalf of Alex Hempel <rainynight65@...>
Sent: 28 February 2019 02:14:55
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Wiring a DCC layout
 

[Edited Message Follows]

Yes, Peco Setrack will only give you insulfrog turnouts. It shouldn't be too much of a problem. You can probably mix in Streamline Code 100 Electrofrogs if you really want to, but that may make your track plan a bit more complex, as they have different lengths and radii.

When you say the turnouts and turntable will be under manual control, does that mean you won't electrify them at all, or that you'll control them using standard pushbuttons and not DCC?

Re: Wiring a DCC layout

Paul Cole <Lead_horse@...>
 

Hi thank you so much that's extremely helpful, yep definitely making good use of Youtube at the moment
From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> on behalf of vincent marino <vmarino2009@...>
Sent: 28 February 2019 00:46:44
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Wiring a DCC layout
 
My brother I'm fairly new myself however I'm a year plus into it. I never heard of the components you're using so I'm keeping my comments to the basics. First design your layout with power districts that will help you isolate the future shorts. I isolated the main lines, turnouts, yards, turntable, etc. Secondly, use 14awg wire for power district buses, 18awg wire for track wire drops to the bus and connect every piece of track to the bus. Soldier or make sure each track joiner is flawless. Most problems result from that connection. Finally once the layout track is connected and the electric voltage is constant throughout, your next challenge is to make sure the locomotives and rolling stock run smoothly forward and backwards.  I wouldn't permanently attach track until your happy with the operation. Once you're at that stage you can advance into JMRI. At that point tweaking your locos to speed matching will bring your operation to another level of pleasure, because trains will rarely derail except for the human error of course. Hope I helped you. Don't be discouraged and make YouTube your friend. 

On Wed, Feb 27, 2019, 5:38 AM Paul Cole <Lead_horse@...> wrote:
Hi I am new too this group and was hoping someone could tell me how to wire up the layout shown in the attachments please. I am completely new too model railways and DCC and also a complete novice with electrical (I know not the best combination). I will be using peco setrack 100 (am I correct in thinking in that I will only have a choice of insulfrogs), all my points and the turntable will be under manual control and the layout will be on a 9ft x 4ft baseboard controlled by a gaugemaster prodigy advance2.
Thank you for any help anyone can provide it will be whole heartedly appreciated.
Paul

Re: Wiring a DCC layout

Al Silverstein
 

w4dccqa Members
 
The files and photos sections were locked.
 
These features have been unlocked.
 
Al Silverstein
Moderator
 

From: David McBrayer
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2019 11:28 PM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Wiring a DCC layout
 
A problem under the Files and Photos tab in the left column.  What I thought was an active blue button is not blue enough to be functional.  The other groups I participate in at this domain allow user created folders and photo albums. 
 
My question for the administrators: What is the ACTUAL procedure for a User/Member to create a new File Folder as a means of demonstrating a challenge or concept?  Does the creation and/or upload have to be performed or authorized by an Administrator?  Under the Help icon in the group header there is no content re adding Files or Photos.  It merely shows the tabs. 
 
—Dave McBrayer


On Feb 27, 2019, at 23:00, David McBrayer <d_mcbrayer@...> wrote:

Dan, 
I meant the location of this discussion group, ‘w4dccqa@groups.io’
 
It turns out the pictures tab in the left column. does NOT have a ‘create new folder’ button.  However, the Files tab in the left column Does have a create new folder and an Upload File button.  Create a new folder under the Files tab using suitably descriptive terms or your name.  Review the names used for the other folders for ideas.  Once you have decided on a folder name click the Create Folder button and follow the prompts.  Upon completion, click the upload File button and follow the prompts.  Pictures have been uploaded under the Files Tab.  “*.JPG” filetypes seem to be the most common image filetype used.  Having done this once, you will appreciate its simplicity. 

—Dave McBrayer

On Feb 27, 2019, at 17:21, digitaldanm@... wrote:

Dave, when you mentioned "log into the main site" are you referring to Groups.io or to some other site? Sorry for the newbie question.

Dan

Powering Hinged Point Rails

Jerry Breon
 

Hello Group,
I am interested in learning from the experience of others relative to powering hinged point rails by a means other than relying only on contact between the point and stock rail. Please note that I am not looking for a discussion about powering frogs (which I do), and in particular I am referring to Walthers HO scale DCC Friendly Code 83 turnouts actuated with Tortoise stall motors. Although I have not yet experienced any power interruption to date relying solely on mechanical contact, I wish to ensure no future problems with the turnouts in my staging yard which will prove a bit difficult to access once the layout is finished.

To those that power point rails:
1.) Do you solder a feeder to each point rail near the hinge (fed from DCC Buss below) or do you prefer a small, flexible jumper wire soldered between the point and closure rails spanning the hinge on the surface?
2.) What type (stranded or solid) and gauge wire do you use for your preferred method?
3.) Is there another means of ensuring power to hinged point rails that I have overlooked?

Thanks,
Jerry Breon
Mooresville, NC 

New file uploaded to w4dccqa@groups.io

w4dccqa@groups.io Notification <w4dccqa+notification@...>
 

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the w4dccqa@groups.io group.

File: TrakMat Extension 3.pdf

Uploaded By: Paul Cole

Description:
Track plan

You can access this file at the URL:
https://groups.io/g/w4dccqa/files/Paul%27s%20layout%20plan/TrakMat%20Extension%203.pdf

Cheers,
The Groups.io Team

Re: Powering Hinged Point Rails

John Bishop
 

Hi Jerry,

I also use powered frogs and a stall motor (Switchmaster in my case).

What I do is solder a jumper from each stock rail to each closure rail, using any kind of wire, which it sounds like you are doing also.

Then I jump from the closure rail across the joint to the point using  "Solder Wick," which is made of braided very thin copper strands and is very flexible. 

Granted I am in O Scale, but I use code .100 rail, and the braid can be thinned down by judicious use of an Exacto knife. 

Recently, I have started building switches without any joint for the point, no gap between point and stock rail, and just not spiking near where the joint would be. The joint can be simulated with a couple passes by a razor saw on top of the rail.  But I don't know if this would work in HO since the switch would be physically shorter and there may not be enough flex in the rail over the shorter distance. 

Hope this helps!

John Bishop 

On Thursday, February 28, 2019, 5:31:41 AM PST, Jerry Breon <jbreon@...> wrote:


Hello Group,
I am interested in learning from the experience of others relative to powering hinged point rails by a means other than relying only on contact between the point and stock rail. Please note that I am not looking for a discussion about powering frogs (which I do), and in particular I am referring to Walthers HO scale DCC Friendly Code 83 turnouts actuated with Tortoise stall motors. Although I have not yet experienced any power interruption to date relying solely on mechanical contact, I wish to ensure no future problems with the turnouts in my staging yard which will prove a bit difficult to access once the layout is finished.

To those that power point rails:
1.) Do you solder a feeder to each point rail near the hinge (fed from DCC Buss below) or do you prefer a small, flexible jumper wire soldered between the point and closure rails spanning the hinge on the surface?
2.) What type (stranded or solid) and gauge wire do you use for your preferred method?
3.) Is there another means of ensuring power to hinged point rails that I have overlooked?

Thanks,
Jerry Breon
Mooresville, NC 

Re: Wiring a DCC layout

Paul Cole <Lead_horse@...>
 

Hi now that the add folder button has been unlocked I have now added a folder called "Paul's Layout Plan" with a pdf of my layout in. Please if anyone has any ideas on how I wire this layout up please any help would be so appreciated.
 
https://groups.io/g/w4dccqa/files/Paul%27s%20layout%20plan

Paul's Layout

Carl
 

Hello Paul:

Nice layout.

I would suggest at least 4 blocks, more wouldn't hurt.

1) Inside loop

2) Outside loop

3) Yard

4) Turntable, plus the turntable may need polarity to fixed as it rotates, I think the Atlas turntable has this built in. On Jim's layout I put cams and limit switches to reverse the power.

I would suggest more blocks and lots of insulated rail joints. Much easier now, than later. Don't ask me how I know, I had to gap and rewire three times on my layout.

Best wishes, Carl.

On 2/28/2019 2:36 PM, w4dccqa@groups.io Notification wrote:

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the w4dccqa@groups.io group.

File: TrakMat Extension 3.pdf

Uploaded By: Paul Cole

Description:
Track plan

You can access this file at the URL:
https://groups.io/g/w4dccqa/files/Paul%27s%20layout%20plan/TrakMat%20Extension%203.pdf

Cheers,
The Groups.io Team


Virus-free. www.avast.com

Re: Paul's Layout

Paul Cole <Lead_horse@...>
 

Hi Carl,

Thank you so much thats fantastic and especially thanks for the tip at the end that definitely sounds like a situation I don't want to go through.

Best regards
Paul


From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> on behalf of Carl <carl.blum@...>
Sent: 28 February 2019 21:01
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: [w4dccqa] Paul's Layout
 

Hello Paul:

Nice layout.

I would suggest at least 4 blocks, more wouldn't hurt.

1) Inside loop

2) Outside loop

3) Yard

4) Turntable, plus the turntable may need polarity to fixed as it rotates, I think the Atlas turntable has this built in. On Jim's layout I put cams and limit switches to reverse the power.

I would suggest more blocks and lots of insulated rail joints. Much easier now, than later. Don't ask me how I know, I had to gap and rewire three times on my layout.

Best wishes, Carl.

On 2/28/2019 2:36 PM, w4dccqa@groups.io Notification wrote:

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the w4dccqa@groups.io group.

File: TrakMat Extension 3.pdf

Uploaded By: Paul Cole

Description:
Track plan

You can access this file at the URL:
https://groups.io/g/w4dccqa/files/Paul%27s%20layout%20plan/TrakMat%20Extension%203.pdf

Cheers,
The Groups.io Team


Virus-free. www.avast.com

Re: Powering Hinged Point Rails

Swanny
 

Jerry, I have modified about 130 Walthers Code 83 DCC-friendly turnouts in the last 3 years.  Every turnout has a 24-ga. solid wire soldered from the web of the point rail to the web of the frog rail, across the rail joiner.  This is done to avoid the eventual failure of the electrical contact between the stock rail and the point.  The process includes burnishing both solder points on the rail with a small wire brush, coating both surfaces with flux, tinning both surfaces with solder, and similar preparation of the wire.  The final step is to connect the wire to the rails using a conical tipped iron that has been properly tinned.  Although this results in some stiffening of the point action, I have had no problem activating them with Tortoise devices.  Note that I use a heavier gage wire for activation than is supplied by Circuitorn, mostly due to my 11/16" plywood + 1/2" Homasote + cork base, but it also takes care of any stiffening of the point action.

I hope you find this information helpful.
John  

Re: Powering Hinged Point Rails

John Bishop
 

John S.,

Assume by "a 24-ga. solid wire soldered from the web of the point rail to the web of the frog rail,"  you mean "to the web of the stock rail"  

Isn't stranded wire (if not what I suggested more flexible though?  But what works, works!

John Bishop

On Friday, March 1, 2019, 8:17:39 AM PST, Swanny <john@...> wrote:


Jerry, I have modified about 130 Walthers Code 83 DCC-friendly turnouts in the last 3 years.  Every turnout has a 24-ga. solid wire soldered from the web of the point rail to the web of the frog rail, across the rail joiner.  This is done to avoid the eventual failure of the electrical contact between the stock rail and the point.  The process includes burnishing both solder points on the rail with a small wire brush, coating both surfaces with flux, tinning both surfaces with solder, and similar preparation of the wire.  The final step is to connect the wire to the rails using a conical tipped iron that has been properly tinned.  Although this results in some stiffening of the point action, I have had no problem activating them with Tortoise devices.  Note that I use a heavier gage wire for activation than is supplied by Circuitorn, mostly due to my 11/16" plywood + 1/2" Homasote + cork base, but it also takes care of any stiffening of the point action.

I hope you find this information helpful.
John