Date   
Re: Wiring Bi-color LED's

Richard Gagnon
 

I meant most LED’s are 20 ma




On Saturday, October 13, 2018, 4:11 PM, rg <richg_1998@...> wrote:

I put a two lead red/green 3mm, two lead LED in series with one tortoise lead. The tortoise draws almost 20 ma. at stall. Most LED’s are needed. No resistors needed.

Rich




On Saturday, October 13, 2018, 11:21 AM, Tom Anderson <tanderson@...> wrote:

I am installing Tortoise machines on my layout and will start a panel using DPDT switches to change the turnout position. I would like to add bi-color led's (red/green) to the panel and power them using the contacts on the Tortoise. Could someone show me a simple way to wire these.

LED's have the following specifications:
Forward voltage (R/G): 2.0/2.2   Max: 2.5/2.6
Reverse voltage: 5.0
Peak forward current: 150mA
Steady Current: 25mA
Given that the Tortoise uses 12V, I am assuming that I need resistors to not damage the LED but I don't know what value or how many are needed.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! I have very little experience doing this.
Thanks!

Tom

Re: Rotary switch

pekka_groups
 

...and an image of the type of rotary switch that is discussed here can be found at:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotary_switch

The black & white image shows the classic rotary switch that has those wafers that may be stacked to same axle. What the Wikipedia article does not say is that the switches may be "break before make" or "make before break", meaning that if one turns the rotary switch knob the next terminal is connected either before or after the previous terminal is disconnected. This may be of importance, as "make before break" can cause unintentional short circuits. On the other hand "Make before break" may be used even for creating short pulses.

pekka


On 2018-10-12 22:03, Don Vollrath wrote:
To see how to do it go to www.wiringfordcc.com and look in the index for and/or scroll down to section "f" of the advanced Slo-motion switch motor control.
Sorry... I lost my list of easy links to various subjects.
Another method is to use the Team Digital SRC16 and use a single push button to select and enable a particular yard track with internal programming set up to correctly adjust up to 8 turnouts for that track path.
DonV

Re: Wiring Bi-color LED's

Tom Anderson
 

Rich,

 

          Isn’t a resistor needed to knock down the 12 volts given the LED’s show voltage of 2 – 2.5 V?

 

          Am I missing something here?

 

          Thanks!

 

Tom

 

 

 

Tom Anderson

 

Business Information Systems, Inc.

P.O. Box 160396

Boiling Springs, SC  29316

 

(864) 621-8607

 

From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> On Behalf Of Richard Gagnon via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2018 4:11 PM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Wiring Bi-color LED's

 

I put a two lead red/green 3mm, two lead LED in series with one tortoise lead. The tortoise draws almost 20 ma. at stall. Most LED’s are needed. No resistors needed.

 

Rich



On Saturday, October 13, 2018, 11:21 AM, Tom Anderson <tanderson@...> wrote:

I am installing Tortoise machines on my layout and will start a panel using DPDT switches to change the turnout position. I would like to add bi-color led's (red/green) to the panel and power them using the contacts on the Tortoise. Could someone show me a simple way to wire these.

LED's have the following specifications:
Forward voltage (R/G): 2.0/2.2   Max: 2.5/2.6
Reverse voltage: 5.0
Peak forward current: 150mA
Steady Current: 25mA
Given that the Tortoise uses 12V, I am assuming that I need resistors to not damage the LED but I don't know what value or how many are needed.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! I have very little experience doing this.
Thanks!

Tom


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Re: Wiring Bi-color LED's

Richard Gagnon
 

No. The tortoise does the  job. Like I said I did the measurements.

Rich




On Saturday, October 13, 2018, 4:26 PM, Tom Anderson <tanderson@...> wrote:

Rich,

 

          Isn’t a resistor needed to knock down the 12 volts given the LED’s show voltage of 2 – 2.5 V?

 

          Am I missing something here?

 

          Thanks!

 

Tom

 

 

bis_250x60

 

Tom Anderson

 

Business Information Systems, Inc.

P.O. Box 160396

Boiling Springs, SC  29316

 

(864) 621-8607

 

From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> On Behalf Of Richard Gagnon via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2018 4:11 PM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Wiring Bi-color LED's

 

I put a two lead red/green 3mm, two lead LED in series with one tortoise lead. The tortoise draws almost 20 ma. at stall. Most LED’s are needed. No resistors needed.

 

Rich



On Saturday, October 13, 2018, 11:21 AM, Tom Anderson <tanderson@...> wrote:

I am installing Tortoise machines on my layout and will start a panel using DPDT switches to change the turnout position. I would like to add bi-color led's (red/green) to the panel and power them using the contacts on the Tortoise. Could someone show me a simple way to wire these.

LED's have the following specifications:
Forward voltage (R/G): 2.0/2.2   Max: 2.5/2.6
Reverse voltage: 5.0
Peak forward current: 150mA
Steady Current: 25mA
Given that the Tortoise uses 12V, I am assuming that I need resistors to not damage the LED but I don't know what value or how many are needed.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! I have very little experience doing this.
Thanks!

Tom


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Re: Wiring Bi-color LED's

Richard Gagnon
 

I think the tortoise instructions might explain. The motor drops the voltage a lot. I did electronics for fifty years.

Rich 




On Saturday, October 13, 2018, 7:50 PM, Richard Gagnon via Groups.Io <richg_1998@...> wrote:

No. The tortoise does the  job. Like I said I did the measurements.

Rich




On Saturday, October 13, 2018, 4:26 PM, Tom Anderson <tanderson@...> wrote:

Rich,

 

          Isn’t a resistor needed to knock down the 12 volts given the LED’s show voltage of 2 – 2.5 V?

 

          Am I missing something here?

 

          Thanks!

 

Tom

 

 

bis_250x60

 

Tom Anderson

 

Business Information Systems, Inc.

P.O. Box 160396

Boiling Springs, SC  29316

 

(864) 621-8607

 

From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> On Behalf Of Richard Gagnon via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2018 4:11 PM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Wiring Bi-color LED's

 

I put a two lead red/green 3mm, two lead LED in series with one tortoise lead. The tortoise draws almost 20 ma. at stall. Most LED’s are needed. No resistors needed.

 

Rich



On Saturday, October 13, 2018, 11:21 AM, Tom Anderson <tanderson@...> wrote:

I am installing Tortoise machines on my layout and will start a panel using DPDT switches to change the turnout position. I would like to add bi-color led's (red/green) to the panel and power them using the contacts on the Tortoise. Could someone show me a simple way to wire these.

LED's have the following specifications:
Forward voltage (R/G): 2.0/2.2   Max: 2.5/2.6
Reverse voltage: 5.0
Peak forward current: 150mA
Steady Current: 25mA
Given that the Tortoise uses 12V, I am assuming that I need resistors to not damage the LED but I don't know what value or how many are needed.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! I have very little experience doing this.
Thanks!

Tom


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Re: Wiring Bi-color LED's

Max Maginness
 

The tortoise motor acts like a resistor in this case with the (bicolor)  LED  in series with it.
The alterative of putting the LED in parallel with the tortoise motor would require a resistor.

Max

 

From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> On Behalf Of Tom Anderson
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2018 1:26 PM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Wiring Bi-color LED's

 

Rich,

 

          Isn’t a resistor needed to knock down the 12 volts given the LED’s show voltage of 2 – 25 V?

 

          Am I missing something here?

 

          Thanks!

 

Tom

 

 

 

Tom Anderson

 

Business Information Systems, Inc.

P.O. Box 160396

Boiling Springs, SC  29316

 

(864) 621-8607

 

From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> On Behalf Of Richard Gagnon via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2018 4:11 PM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Wiring Bi-color LED's

 

I put a two lead red/green 3mm, two lead LED in series with one tortoise lead. The tortoise draws almost 20 ma. at stall. Most LED’s are needed. No resistors needed.

 

Rich


On Saturday, October 13, 2018, 11:21 AM, Tom Anderson <tanderson@...> wrote:

I am installing Tortoise machines on my layout and will start a panel using DPDT switches to change the turnout position. I would like to add bi-color led's (red/green) to the panel and power them using the contacts on the Tortoise. Could someone show me a simple way to wire these.

LED's have the following specifications:
Forward voltage (R/G): 2.0/2.2   Max: 2.5/2.6
Reverse voltage: 5.0
Peak forward current: 150mA
Steady Current: 25mA
Given that the Tortoise uses 12V, I am assuming that I need resistors to not damage the LED but I don't know what value or how many are needed.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! I have very little experience doing this.
Thanks!

Tom


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Re: Wiring Bi-color LED's

Tom Anderson
 

Rich,

 

          Thanks for the clarification. As I mentioned this new for me.

 

Tom

 

 

 

Tom Anderson

 

Business Information Systems, Inc.

P.O. Box 160396

Boiling Springs, SC  29316

 

(864) 621-8607

 

From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> On Behalf Of Richard Gagnon via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2018 7:56 PM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Wiring Bi-color LED's

 

I think the tortoise instructions might explain. The motor drops the voltage a lot. I did electronics for fifty years.

 

Rich 



On Saturday, October 13, 2018, 7:50 PM, Richard Gagnon via Groups.Io <richg_1998@...> wrote:

No. The tortoise does the  job. Like I said I did the measurements.

 

Rich



On Saturday, October 13, 2018, 4:26 PM, Tom Anderson <tanderson@...> wrote:

Rich,

 

          Isn’t a resistor needed to knock down the 12 volts given the LED’s show voltage of 2 – 2.5 V?

 

          Am I missing something here?

 

          Thanks!

 

Tom

 

 

 

Tom Anderson

 

Business Information Systems, Inc.

P.O. Box 160396

Boiling Springs, SC  29316

 

(864) 621-8607

 

From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> On Behalf Of Richard Gagnon via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2018 4:11 PM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Wiring Bi-color LED's

 

I put a two lead red/green 3mm, two lead LED in series with one tortoise lead. The tortoise draws almost 20 ma. at stall. Most LED’s are needed. No resistors needed.

 

Rich


On Saturday, October 13, 2018, 11:21 AM, Tom Anderson <tanderson@...> wrote:

I am installing Tortoise machines on my layout and will start a panel using DPDT switches to change the turnout position. I would like to add bi-color led's (red/green) to the panel and power them using the contacts on the Tortoise. Could someone show me a simple way to wire these.

LED's have the following specifications:
Forward voltage (R/G): 2.0/2.2   Max: 2.5/2.6
Reverse voltage: 5.0
Peak forward current: 150mA
Steady Current: 25mA
Given that the Tortoise uses 12V, I am assuming that I need resistors to not damage the LED but I don't know what value or how many are needed.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! I have very little experience doing this.
Thanks!

Tom


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Re: Wiring Bi-color LED's

Rich Randall
 

Sounds good. However, are all Tortoise' exactly the same? To ensure my LEDs are not blown, I put 20mA current limiters in series. Just my way.


Rich Randall
Gettysburg, PA

Re: Rotary switch

john
 

Don, 
do you have a drawing for that, I am presently using one relay per Tortoise Motor and a diode matrix.
jd



On Saturday, October 13, 2018 3:43 PM, Don Vollrath <donevol43@...> wrote:


You can use a Team Digital SRC16 and program it to use a single push button to select the track path and line up multiple turnouts. Works great with Tortoise motors.
DonV




Re: Wiring Bi-color LED's

Richard Gagnon
 

It sure makes sense they are all made the same way.
20 mm LED’s are all made the same way.

Rich




On Saturday, October 13, 2018, 9:12 PM, Rich Randall via Groups.Io <RRand4449@...> wrote:

Sounds good. However, are all Tortoise' exactly the same? To ensure my LEDs are not blown, I put 20mA current limiters in series. Just my way.


Rich Randall
Gettysburg, PA

Wiring For DCC Update

wirefordcc
 

I have added a section on the new Peco Unifrog turnout.  It can be found at:

http://wiringfordcc.com/switches_peco.htm#a7

or accessed through the What's New section:

http://wiringfordcc.com/wirefordcc_toc.htm#a1

Allan Gartner
Wiring For DCC

Re: Hornby Pendolo digital

Howard Greenway
 

The DCC version of the Pendolino has a ‘special’ Hornby 7 pin decoder but it is not a very good performer. A picture of this plug in board would help. I don’t think a 7 pin blanking plug is available so it is most likely a decoder set to another address. Some-one with a decent DCC controller could read this value. I changed the chassis on mine to the DCC ready version which strangely comes with a conventional 8 pin socket and fitted a decent decoder.
Howard


On 4 Oct 2018, at 06:10, Richard Sutcliffe <ras1@...> wrote:

Thanks Theo

Kinda what I figured.

Guess we would have to hard wire - the 7 pin stock is not a recognized DCC configuration.

On Oct 3, 2018, at 1:25 AM, Theo van Riet <tvanriet@...> wrote:




Op 3 okt. 2018, om 07:04 heeft Richard Sutcliffe <ras1@...> het volgende geschreven:


When placed on a Digitrax programming track there no acknowledgement (na).
Looking inside there is a mother board with another board plugged into a 7 pin socket.

Am I right in assuming the second board, with a number of components, simply bridges the motor to the track?



The board, plugged in the 7pin socket has to be replaced by a decoder of his choice, then it will start reacting on digital signals.
This looks to me as an analog train, prepared for digital…

Theo


--                 
Greetings from the heath in the north of Belgium 





Dick Sutcliffe

Secretary
Dewdney-Alouette Railway Society


Re: Rotary switch

Don Vollrath
 

John / jd, You can find the TD SRC16 tech manual and connections diagrams at http://www.teamdigital1.com/resources/documents/src16_doc.pdf.
Unfortunately the SCR16 seems to be out of production. I was not aware of that. That is a shame as it is such a great easy to use product.
Simply following the directions of examples in the tech manual makes perfect sense and can be accomplished as wired in place via programming on the main (POM) without need for the programming track or an external computer when powered from the DCC (track or accessory) bus.. [You don't need Loco-Net but it can be used to talk between units.]
You might find some product parts still on the shelf at your local hobby shop (LHS) and/or net-sales outlets. It's worth the effort to also use the SRC16 with their MotoD drivers for up to 16 motor outputs.  

I also supplied a rotary switch connection diagram earlier for controlling routes in a yard to Allan's wiring4dcc.com website. Did you find it?
You can find the necessary single deck rotary switch in the www.jameco.com catalog.

I have use both of the above methods to control and indicate the position of yard and other mainline Tortoise switch machines.  

DonV

Re: Hornby Pendolo digital

Richard Sutcliffe
 

Howard

I don’t have access to the unit for a photo.
The plug in the socket had 2 diodes and two capacitors, just like most DC adapter plugs.
Ran on DC, with lights.
We will probably hard wire a DCC socket and use a basic decoder, although the father was intrigued by my Kato Shinkansen with an electric Econami decoder.
They showed up with a set of EMUs last week, but these have a standard 8 pin socket and DC “blanking” plug.

On Oct 14, 2018, at 8:39 AM, Howard Greenway via Groups.Io <greenwayhoward@...> wrote:

The DCC version of the Pendolino has a ‘special’ Hornby 7 pin decoder but it is not a very good performer. A picture of this plug in board would help. I don’t think a 7 pin blanking plug is available so it is most likely a decoder set to another address. Some-one with a decent DCC controller could read this value. I changed the chassis on mine to the DCC ready version which strangely comes with a conventional 8 pin socket and fitted a decent decoder.
Howard


Re: Rotary switch

Don Vollrath
 

It looks as though the Team Digital SRC8 is still available and could also be used instead of their SRC16 to program PB inputs to select a particular yard track and turn an indicator LED on. However the tech manual at http://www.teamdigital1.com/resources/documents/src8_5.pdf. is not as easy to follow.
DonV 

Re: Rotary switch

 

According to their web sight the SRC8 is also discontinued. 

Ken Harstine
Holyoke, MA

Re: Rotary switch

Chuck Stiles
 

If you have access to JMRI You can add a SRC8 or 16 to your roster its on the decoder list, and program it a little easier in decoder pro

Chuck
Brick NJ

Re: Wiring For DCC Update

wirefordcc
 

I added a photo of the Peco Unifrog to my website today.

http://wiringfordcc.com/switches_peco.htm#a7

Allan Gartner
Wiring for DCC

NCE Mini-Panel and F2

Bill Wilken
 

If I toggle F2 on my NCE cab, I can start and stop a horn blowing in any of my locos, regardless of decoder.  But if I summon F2 via my NCE Mini-Panel, once the horn begins to blow there seems to be no way to stop it.  The decoder model in the loco makes no difference.  Am I missing something obvious or does this simply fall into the category, "one of those things?"

Re: NCE Mini-Panel and F2

Bill Wilken
 

I finally discovered the answer to my own question.  To turn off any function requires leaving a bit blank, not treating it as a toggle.

On 10/25/18 8:25 PM, Bill Wilken wrote:
If I toggle F2 on my NCE cab, I can start and stop a horn blowing in any of my locos, regardless of decoder.  But if I summon F2 via my NCE Mini-Panel, once the horn begins to blow there seems to be no way to stop it.  The decoder model in the loco makes no difference.  Am I missing something obvious or does this simply fall into the category, "one of those things?"