Date   
Re: Powering turntable and lights

Steve Hubbard
 

I am using an older NCE decoder to run my Bowser turntable motor as it allowed me to control speed. I put a max output cap voltage to the motor for realistic turntable rotation speed. I was playing with momentum to slow start and stop of turntable.  Considered running bridge shack light off decoder however it would require 2 more contact wipers on the bridge mechanism so I opted out.. 

Powering turntable and lights

monty cunningham
 

I am thinking about using a decoder I pirated out of a Bachmann 2-8-0 to power turntable and to power roundhouse and yard lights.
Thinking I can use the orange and gray wires to power the turntable motor and use the yellow/blue and white/blue to power the yard and roundhouse lights.  Wire the red and black wires directly to the track bus.  Use some nominal address like 999 ?
I have several Evan Designs LEDs that I can use.  Was wondering about wiring them.  Can I use more than one of them on each circuit?  If I can should they be wired in series or parallel?
Good idea or Bad idea?
Thanks
Monty

Re: Indicators for turnout position

Max Maginness
 

If you are OK with using these just for indicators, try disconnecting the wire presently going to   either pin 1 or pin 8 of the tortoise and connecting it  instead to pin 1 of the 942-121 , then connecting Pin 3 of the 942-121  to the  pin on the tortoise you removed the wire from.

 

If the Yellow/Green indications are reversed from what you would like, swap the wires to pins 1 and 3 of the 942-121.

 

It maybe that the Tortoise will run slowly or stall with this change, since the LEDs will reduce the voltage available to it. However maybe worth a try

Pins 5 and 7 in the tortoise are simply switch contacts and cannot  by themselves  provide any power for the LED’s (or anything else)

Max

 

From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> On Behalf Of Nick Ostrosky
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2019 3:36 AM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: [w4dccqa] Indicators for turnout position

 

I scanned the materials on the site but either it isn't covered or I'm too dense to interpret what I'm reading and apply it as needed.  NCE system using five Tortoise machines with the built-in decoder, powered off the track bus.  I was hoping to wire up fascia indicators using Walthers Layout Control System Dual LED Fascia Turnout Controller part #942-121, connecting to pins 5-7 on the Tortoise - the quick connect cable seemed to make this a simple process and would give me the option of push button control in addition to cab control.  After reading the available materials I understand this would not give me push button control, but I would expect to at least see the indicators light for position.  No matter how I connect the wires I get nothing.  What am I missing, and would Walthers Two Color LED Fascia Indicator part #942-151 be the more workable option?

What I'm trying to avoid is having to buy a bunch of separate components - LEDs, resistors, connectors, etc.  Looking for more of a plug-and-play option, with push button control nice to have but certainly not necessary for a one-or-two operator layout.  Thanks!

Indicators for turnout position

Nick Ostrosky
 

I scanned the materials on the site but either it isn't covered or I'm too dense to interpret what I'm reading and apply it as needed.  NCE system using five Tortoise machines with the built-in decoder, powered off the track bus.  I was hoping to wire up fascia indicators using Walthers Layout Control System Dual LED Fascia Turnout Controller part #942-121, connecting to pins 5-7 on the Tortoise - the quick connect cable seemed to make this a simple process and would give me the option of push button control in addition to cab control.  After reading the available materials I understand this would not give me push button control, but I would expect to at least see the indicators light for position.  No matter how I connect the wires I get nothing.  What am I missing, and would Walthers Two Color LED Fascia Indicator part #942-151 be the more workable option?

What I'm trying to avoid is having to buy a bunch of separate components - LEDs, resistors, connectors, etc.  Looking for more of a plug-and-play option, with push button control nice to have but certainly not necessary for a one-or-two operator layout.  Thanks!

Re: Powering Points

 

Also known as "Music Wire" .  "Do it Best" hardware affiliates have the
best prices I have seen and have free shipping to their affiliates.

Best Regards,

Ken Harstine

Re: Powering Points

Carl
 

Hi:

Sorry: They also have music wire:

https://www.mcmaster.com/8908K34

Carl.

On 12/16/2019 3:09 PM, Richard Sutcliffe wrote:
Not likely, note that this is "softened"
What is needed is steel wire - and music has some "spring" to it.

Re: Powering Points

Richard Sutcliffe
 

Not likely, note that this is "softened"
What is needed is steel wire - and music has some "spring" to it.

Re: Powering Points

Carl
 

Hi Greg:

Is this what you are looking for:

https://www.mcmaster.com/6517K66

100 pieces for $11. All straight a foot long.

Carl.

On 12/16/2019 8:20 AM, Greg Harter wrote:
Our club changes out all the .025" wire with .032' wire.  makes a big difference.Getting harder to find this stuff!!!!!!

Greg Harter

Re: Powering Points

John Cahill
 

In case it helps, I get mine from a supplier of parts for R/C aircraft where it is used (I believe) to connect servos to control surfaces.
John


On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 1:20 PM Greg Harter <greg1462@...> wrote:
Our club changes out all the .025" wire with .032' wire.  makes a big difference.Getting harder to find this stuff!!!!!!

Greg Harter

Re: Powering Points

RONALD ST.LAURENT
 

Perry,

You can shop piano wire at local hardware stores.  Typically made by K&S and sold 5 to a pack in 36 inch lengths.  Be sure to use a hard wire cutter as this wire will surely ruin your track cutting tool.

Ron


On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 9:07 AM Perry A Pollino <texasperry@...> wrote:
In addition the .032 wire I also add the brass tube. In some cases my Tortoise is 2" below the turnout.  The three turnouts were in my staging and the first ones I installed. I did not occur to me until I crawled under the layout to see if I could drill and add a feeder wire for the points. I had honestly thought I had changed them all out. I am not sure if the tortoise remote machines will give me a problem. I have about 6 of those. 
Since I do not have a LHS I typically by all my hobby needs on line. Yes I have had trouble finding the .032 wire in stock anyhow. I stocked up when I did find it. Amazon usually has a vendor. I am almost out.
Perry 

On Monday, December 16, 2019, 07:20:30 AM CST, Greg Harter <greg1462@...> wrote:


Our club changes out all the .025" wire with .032' wire.  makes a big difference.Getting harder to find this stuff!!!!!!

Greg Harter

Re: Powering Points

Perry A Pollino
 

In addition the .032 wire I also add the brass tube. In some cases my Tortoise is 2" below the turnout.  The three turnouts were in my staging and the first ones I installed. I did not occur to me until I crawled under the layout to see if I could drill and add a feeder wire for the points. I had honestly thought I had changed them all out. I am not sure if the tortoise remote machines will give me a problem. I have about 6 of those. 
Since I do not have a LHS I typically by all my hobby needs on line. Yes I have had trouble finding the .032 wire in stock anyhow. I stocked up when I did find it. Amazon usually has a vendor. I am almost out.
Perry 

On Monday, December 16, 2019, 07:20:30 AM CST, Greg Harter <greg1462@...> wrote:


Our club changes out all the .025" wire with .032' wire.  makes a big difference.Getting harder to find this stuff!!!!!!

Greg Harter

Re: Powering Points

Greg Harter
 

Our club changes out all the .025" wire with .032' wire.  makes a big difference.Getting harder to find this stuff!!!!!!

Greg Harter

Re: Powering Points

Perry A Pollino
 

Folks
Thanks for the replies.
I thought I would follow up and let you know what I discovered. The turnouts I powered in my first power district, were also the first turnouts I installed. In doing so I had not upgraded the piano wire driving the switch points. Although it was only put through 1/2 inch of plywood and 1/4 inch of foam plus cork roadbed it was not putting enough pressure on the points. Cleaning the points and changing that wire seems to have remedied the problem of making good contact. Time will tell. I am not sure what will happen with the 1/2 dozen or so remote machines I have in place. I will find out as I power those districts. 
Perry

Wiring crossing gates for DCC

crosswire144@...
 

I have an older Bachmann #1443 crossing gate with flashing lights and bell. It currently uses under track pressure switches for activation. Has anyone tried to convert this type of gate to DCC?
Thanks, Crosswire

Re: Powering Points

PennsyNut
 

And in all fairness and honesty, that's all I was trying help with. In my experience, the usually problem with contact between point and closure is "clean". And that is why Went Off Topic! I was not trying to hijack the thread nor to rehash old stuff. I personally don't like wiring. With the Insulfrog, I don't need to. With the PECO snap action, that is usually enough to keep electricity flowing. IF CLEAN. So if one chooses to remove the snap, then they must find a solution. And the solutions I've ever seen for Electrofrog is with wiring. I don't wire turnouts, and with the web site for "wirefordcc" having several excellent wiring instructions. So please forgive me if I stepped on someones toes = Causing a rehash on what to clean with, etc. Also, I find graphite helps with electrical continuity. Again, my apologies!
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC

Re: DCC Bus distribution and snubbers question

emrldsky
 

This subject was discussed quite extensively in earlier threads. I bet if you search for snubbers, you will find a bunch of stuff.


Peace,

Mike G,


On 12/11/2019 10:43 AM, Blair & Rasa wrote:
Members

This thread was allowed to die out with no one even asking for the DCC plan.  Many walk-aways, without answering questions I and others asked about their responses.  Recent threads by others have ended similarly.

I have to ask, why do we bother?  Apparently, it's sufficient to drop in with a comment, a la facebook, but not bother with a deep technical discussion, especially if asked to provide facts and reasons, not just trolling.

Regards to all, but not expecting much

Blair






Re: DCC Bus distribution and snubbers question

Blair & Rasa
 

Members

This thread was allowed to die out with no one even asking for the DCC plan.  Many walk-aways, without answering questions I and others asked about their responses.  Recent threads by others have ended similarly.

I have to ask, why do we bother?  Apparently, it's sufficient to drop in with a comment, a la facebook, but not bother with a deep technical discussion, especially if asked to provide facts and reasons, not just trolling.

Regards to all, but not expecting much

Blair

Re: Powering Points

wirefordcc
 

All,

Perry still has his question out there about powering points for his N-scale Peco code 55 Electrofrog turnouts.  If anyone can help Perry, please do so. 

Note:  This topic derailed and got back to track cleaning.  This happens occasionally.  If there is a need to change topics, please create a new topic rather than derail the old one.  If a topic, like track cleaning, was recently discussed and needs to be discussed again, it just makes sense to refer to the previous discussion.

Thank you

Allan Gartner
Wiring for DCC

Re: Powering Points

wirefordcc
 

All,

There was a great discussion on this topic a few months ago.  The thread is titled, Cleaners and Lubricants.  Please refer to it.  Do not rehash it now. 

Thank you

Allan Gartner
Wiring for DCC

Re: Powering Points and graphite

wirefordcc
 

With the issue of snake coming up again, this thread has gone full circle with this nearly identical discussion from a few months ago.  This topic is now closed and all further posts will be deleted.

Thank you

Allan Gartner
Wiring For DCC