Date   
Re: HELP needed ..to select turnouts for DCC???

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...>
 

Chuck,

I'm not sure what you are looking for. The instructions for the
electrofrog are at: http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches_peco.htm#a2
The Peco electrofrog is basically DCC friendly. There isn't much you
have to do.

In your earlier posting, you asked about using manual turnout
control. That is covered at:
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm#a14 The approached covered
here works pretty good for our manual ground throws. We got a little
smarter since the phoots were taken. Be sure to heed the suggestion
that says run the grain of the top piece of wood lengthwise. This is
much stronger.

Re: HELP needed ..to select turnouts for DCC???

calldrin <eb2chuck@...>
 

--- In WiringForDCC@..., "wirefordcc"
<wire4dcc_admin@c...> wrote:

Chuck,

Visit my website at: http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm There
you can get instructions for both Peco and Shinohara.

Now that there are DCC friendly turnouts available from
Walthers/Shinohara, I would just go with those and not bother
modifying the turnouts you have. It's easier to do that and sell the
ones you have on eBay.

Allan
Thanks for the reply.
I went to the Walthers page and the only DCC friendly are code 83.
I need code 100. Soooo, I guess I'm out of luck.
Well back to my original problem... Just what is the least I need to
do to make my Peco's work?
I have looked at your web pages many times and I'm still not sure what
to do or not to do!!
Can I use the Peco's just as they are? If so what will be the downside
of using them?

Man, I thought DCC was the way to go... but.. now I'm not so sure ;-(

Thanks again for your help.

Chuck

Re: HELP needed ..to select turnouts for DCC???

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...>
 

Chuck,

Visit my website at: http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm There
you can get instructions for both Peco and Shinohara.

Now that there are DCC friendly turnouts available from
Walthers/Shinohara, I would just go with those and not bother
modifying the turnouts you have. It's easier to do that and sell the
ones you have on eBay.

Allan

HELP needed ..to select turnouts for DCC???

calldrin <eb2chuck@...>
 

I just found this group and I think maybe I can get a "straight"
answer here.

Today I'm in the process of installing the track for my 6'x14' DCC
powered HO layout.
"
My "KUNFUSION" is understanding just what type of turnouts I need to use.

Can I use what I now have: 8 Peco SL-E91 "electrofrog" and 2 Shinohara
N100#4R/H turnouts?
Non of these turnouts have any sort of insulated gaps.

The instructions say that they can be used without modifications...BUT
... almost everything I have read say that they "MUST" be modified to
work with DCC.

I really want to keep things "KISS" simple and use manual throws if
possible.

OK.. can someone tell me the "facts" about these turnouts and just
what must I do to get them working correctly???

ALSO: If someone would send me your phone number, off line, I'd love
to chat with you at my expense.

Please and thank you for your help.

Chuck Alldrin
Chico, CA

Re: can shorts still occur after DCC friendly mods?

Vollrath, Don <dvollrath@...>
 

This could be a good solution for turnouts that have the gaps between closure rails and frog too close to the frog and let oversized wheels inadvertently touch both closure rails. Not sure if this applies to your Peco N scale switches or your engines or rolling stock.

But yes, it can be done w/ 1 half of a DPDT sw to determine frog polarity and the 2nd side to select which set of point & closure rails will also be powered at that same polarity. The other, open point side rails then become un-powered and immune to shorts...even as they open.

DonV

-----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@...
[mailto:WiringForDCC@...]On Behalf Of iseegeardown
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 9:33 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] can shorts still occur after DCC friendly mods?


I'm just about to modify my Peco N-scale turnouts for DCC friendliness. It makes sense to me
that each point and closure rail should be the same polarity as their respective stock rails-
and that this will prevent short circuits between those rails. However, doesn't the same
problem exsist at the required cut where the closure rails meet the beginning of the frog-
(see the pictures under 'suggestion #2-12b' [Peco link] on the wiring for DCC site).
It seems that a DPDT switch could be used to power route the frog -and- cut power to the
unused point/closure rails.
Has anybody tried this and is it necessary?






http://www.WiringForDCC.com
Yahoo! Groups Links

Re: can shorts still occur after DCC friendly mods?

Earl T. Hackett <hackete1@...>
 

As long as the cut is made sufficiently far enough away from the frog that the wheels can not contact it, shorts shouldn't be a problem. I've not found a need to disconnect the unused point and closure rail.

----- Original Message -----
From: iseegeardown
To: WiringForDCC@...
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 10:33 AM
Subject: [WiringForDCC] can shorts still occur after DCC friendly mods?


I'm just about to modify my Peco N-scale turnouts for DCC friendliness. It makes sense to me
that each point and closure rail should be the same polarity as their respective stock rails-
and that this will prevent short circuits between those rails. However, doesn't the same
problem exsist at the required cut where the closure rails meet the beginning of the frog-
(see the pictures under 'suggestion #2-12b' [Peco link] on the wiring for DCC site).
It seems that a DPDT switch could be used to power route the frog -and- cut power to the
unused point/closure rails.
Has anybody tried this and is it necessary?






http://www.WiringForDCC.com



SPONSORED LINKS Lionel model train European model trains Model railroads
Ho scale model train Ho model trains Model train n scale


------------------------------------------------------------------------------
YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS

a.. Visit your group "WiringForDCC" on the web.

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
WiringForDCC-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


------------------------------------------------------------------------------

can shorts still occur after DCC friendly mods?

iseegeardown <iseegeardown@...>
 

I'm just about to modify my Peco N-scale turnouts for DCC friendliness. It makes sense to me
that each point and closure rail should be the same polarity as their respective stock rails-
and that this will prevent short circuits between those rails. However, doesn't the same
problem exsist at the required cut where the closure rails meet the beginning of the frog-
(see the pictures under 'suggestion #2-12b' [Peco link] on the wiring for DCC site).
It seems that a DPDT switch could be used to power route the frog -and- cut power to the
unused point/closure rails.
Has anybody tried this and is it necessary?

Re: Resistance Soldering Wattage for HO

jmscnw <jmscnw@...>
 

Earl,

I did have the electrodes in the wrong spot but I also think
I was putting on too much flux gel. The fulx gel boiled and
it took too long for solder to melt. After changing to a
lighter coating of flux the process went better with no melted
ties. Hooked wires to power pack and....loco ran !

Thanks for your help.

Re: Resistance Soldering Wattage for HO

Earl T. Hackett <hackete1@...>
 

Most of my track is hand laid on wood ties. Only the track in the storage and staging areas is plastic. I tried soldering the plastic ties with a conventional soldering gun and was spectacularly unsuccessful.

I have a 350 watt American Beauty resistance soldering unit that I run at about 40% power to solder wire to the rails. In the staging areas I don't much care what it looks like so I just put the wire on the outside of the rail web, grabbed the wire and rail with the tweezers, and hit the power. As a result I didn't even melt the plastic 'spikes' holding the rail - at least not so much that they went away. I'm not sure how you positioned the electrodes, but the current must run through the joint. You want the resistance of the poor contact in the joint to be the primary source of heat, not the resistance between the electrodes and one of the components.

The rail was code 83 NS, the wire was 22 ga solid. When painted with rail brown the joints aren't very noticeable, yet I can still find them if necessary for track modifications. I don't know what the effective wattage of that setting is on my unit, but if it's linear, it would be somewhere around 100 watts.

----- Original Message -----
From: jmscnw
To: WiringForDCC@...
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 6:58 AM
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Re: Resistance Soldering Wattage for HO


My first attempt a resistance soldering last night resulted in a
melted tie on my test track...will keep practicing ! 100% power
seems to be what is needed.

I drilled hole for wire beneath rail area and ran wire thru test
board. This caused wire to make contact with tie and probably
helped melt tie. I notice in the video, the wire is run outside the track and down along side the roadbed. Is this a common way
to wire ? Does the ballast cover the wire adequately ?

Re: Resistance Soldering Wattage for HO

jmscnw <jmscnw@...>
 

My first attempt a resistance soldering last night resulted in a
melted tie on my test track...will keep practicing ! 100% power
seems to be what is needed.

I drilled hole for wire beneath rail area and ran wire thru test
board. This caused wire to make contact with tie and probably
helped melt tie. I notice in the video, the wire is run outside the
the track and down along side the roadbed. Is this a common way
to wire ? Does the ballast cover the wire adequately ?



In general the joint should heat to soft soldering temperature
(450 F) in 3 seconds.

If it takes longer, heat will conduct to places where you might not
want it. If it is shorter there will be the tendency of overheating
and oxidizing the base materials before the solder has melted.
----- Original Message -----
From: jmscnw
To: WiringForDCC@...
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 6:27 PM
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Resistance Soldering Wattage for HO


Allan,

I just received my resistance soldering station ( 100W ).
For HO track would you still use 50% for feeder soldering ?
I'm assuming you use a 250W unit( is that O gauge track on
demonstration video ? ) .





http://www.WiringForDCC.com



--------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS

a.. Visit your group "WiringForDCC" on the web.

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
WiringForDCC-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms
of Service.


--------------------------------------------------------------------
----------



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: Resistance Soldering Wattage for HO

Earl T. Hackett <hackete1@...>
 

In general the joint should heat to soft soldering temperature (450 F) in 3 seconds.

If it takes longer, heat will conduct to places where you might not want it. If it is shorter there will be the tendency of overheating and oxidizing the base materials before the solder has melted.

----- Original Message -----
From: jmscnw
To: WiringForDCC@...
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 6:27 PM
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Resistance Soldering Wattage for HO


Allan,

I just received my resistance soldering station ( 100W ).
For HO track would you still use 50% for feeder soldering ?
I'm assuming you use a 250W unit( is that O gauge track on
demonstration video ? ) .





http://www.WiringForDCC.com



------------------------------------------------------------------------------
YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS

a.. Visit your group "WiringForDCC" on the web.

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
WiringForDCC-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Resistance Soldering Wattage for HO

jmscnw <jmscnw@...>
 

Allan,

I just received my resistance soldering station ( 100W ).
For HO track would you still use 50% for feeder soldering ?
I'm assuming you use a 250W unit( is that O gauge track on
demonstration video ? ) .

Re: Turnouts and indicator boards

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...>
 

See Don's circuits at:

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/sw_ctl.htm#a15

If you will only be controlling your turnout from one location, you
only need one DPDT switch and LED pair.

Re: Loco "shorts" on Peco Insulfrog Double Slip but OK on Peco Electrofrog Turnouts.

gissapint <gissapint@...>
 

Thanks for this and the other 2 replies - much appreciated. This
solution is the simplest so will give it a try. Watch this space!

--- In WiringForDCC@..., "Doug Stuard" <dstuard@c...>
wrote:

With insulfrog turnouts, the rails that converge in the frog are
separated by a thin strip of plastic. Occasionally metal wheels
can
bridge these two rails, causing a short. A small piece or clear
tape
or some clear nail polish can insulate this area.

Doug Stuard
NVNTRAK

--- In WiringForDCC@..., "Earl T. Hackett"
<hackete1@c...> wrote:

I'm not familiar with the Peco DS, but it's a 90% probability
that
the loco wheels are shorting between two rails of opposite
polarity.
Check for electrical continuity between all points and their stock
rails. On a DS things get pretty tight on the inside points. You
may want to look into using switch machine contacts to set the
polarity on these points similar to the method used with a powered
frog.
----- Original Message -----
From: gissapint
To: WiringForDCC@...
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 1:13 PM
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Loco "shorts" on Peco Insulfrog Double
Slip but OK on Peco Electrofrog Turnouts.


I couldn't find this issue on your forums so would be grateful
for any
advice.
I have a small L-shape end-to-end "00" scale layout wired for
DCC
(Bachmann)using Peco code 75 track. There is a run around loop
incorporating the double slip (DS)at one end and 2 electrofrog
turnouts at the other. The layout successfully passed its
wiring "test" using a DCC chipped Bachmann Class 25 diesel. I
then
added a chip to the Hornby Q1 0-6-0 which has pick up on all
wheels
including the tender. This loco shorts the system when
traveling
straight across the DS but is otherwise OK on the layout. To
confuse
the issue,I had no problems with the following locos when run
(separately) as analogue - Hornby Terrier (0-6-0), Bachmann N-
Class (2-
6-0) and Bachmann Class 4 Standard Tank (2-6-4).
I'm puzzled. The DS is used straight "out of the box" - should
I
have
done some additional wiring? If so, what should I do?

Many thanks,

Dave Tootell
UK.





http://www.WiringForDCC.com



-----------------------------------------------------------------
---
----------
YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS

a.. Visit your group "WiringForDCC" on the web.

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
WiringForDCC-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
Terms
of Service.


-----------------------------------------------------------------
---
----------



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: DCC "Friendly" Turnouts

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...>
 

James,

The Custom-Line Mark IV that you may use is a nickel-silver version of
the classic brass turnout that Atlas has been making for years. Use
the turnout diagram on my website at:

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches_atlas_roco.htm#a1

Allan

Re: Is it necessary to fuse the primary side of transformers?

Vollrath, Don <dvollrath@...>
 

Fusing the primary with will offer additional damage protection in the event that the secondary side (or the transformer itself) suffers a catastrophic failure. It wouldn't hurt to put in a fuse or small circuit breaker on the utility power input side. However, it should be sized to avoid nuisance blowings on start-up due to high inrush current. In your case, a 1 amp slow-blow type per transformer should work. Using a small circuit breaker instead of a fuse also hase the conveneince of providing an On/Off switch. Be sure to install it in a safe manner.

DonV

-----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@...
[mailto:WiringForDCC@...]On Behalf Of mikeboedi
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 6:26 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Is it necessary to fuse the primary side of
transformers?


I'm using 1 ControlUnit (IntelliBox) with 2 boosters. The units are
powered by various transformers.
Each unit has a maximum current draw of 3Amps @ 18V and are protected
against shorts.

Recently, it occured to me that the transformers don't have a fuse on
the primary side, only the main fuse for everything @ 12Amps.
Is it necessary to protect them on the primary side, and if so is my
math corrst that if they deliver 3Amps@ 18V, they should not draw more
than 0.25Amps @ 230V?
Would you recommend fusing them?

your opinion matters...

thx
Michael

Re: Is it necessary to fuse the primary side of transformers?

Dale Gloer
 

Definitely, and your math is correct, but you need to use a somewhat
larger fuse than the expected maximum load. Also, since
transformers have a high inrush current relative to their continuous
load, a slow blowing fuse is recommended. A 1 amp slow blow fuse
would be a good safe choice for the primary side of your
transformers.

Dale Gloer


--- In WiringForDCC@..., "mikeboedi"
<michael.boedi@a...> wrote:

I'm using 1 ControlUnit (IntelliBox) with 2 boosters. The units are
powered by various transformers.
Each unit has a maximum current draw of 3Amps @ 18V and are
protected
against shorts.

Recently, it occured to me that the transformers don't have a fuse
on
the primary side, only the main fuse for everything @ 12Amps.
Is it necessary to protect them on the primary side, and if so is
my
math corrst that if they deliver 3Amps@ 18V, they should not draw
more
than 0.25Amps @ 230V?
Would you recommend fusing them?

your opinion matters...

thx
Michael

Is it necessary to fuse the primary side of transformers?

mikeboedi <michael.boedi@...>
 

I'm using 1 ControlUnit (IntelliBox) with 2 boosters. The units are
powered by various transformers.
Each unit has a maximum current draw of 3Amps @ 18V and are protected
against shorts.

Recently, it occured to me that the transformers don't have a fuse on
the primary side, only the main fuse for everything @ 12Amps.
Is it necessary to protect them on the primary side, and if so is my
math corrst that if they deliver 3Amps@ 18V, they should not draw more
than 0.25Amps @ 230V?
Would you recommend fusing them?

your opinion matters...

thx
Michael

Re: I am going Nutz with decoders ???

hawkhawk22
 

Hello All,

After John asked me those questions, I called Lenz directly, they
walked me through some tests, and told me that it seemed the
programing trck was not working properly. and to return it.

In the mean time they are going to express ship me a brand new unit,
no charge. they were great with me on the phone. I definatly was
impressed.

But I wish to thank you all for the help, and the understanding of a
new person trying to learn as I go.

Thanks again all , I do appreciate it allot,
God Bless
Ray


--- In WiringForDCC@..., "Vollrath, Don" <dvollrath@m...>
wrote:

Either the Lenz LH100 is putting out DC and your loco decoders are
taking off or the NCE decoders are faulty.
Time to
1) Measure track voltage with a Standard DC voltmeter...It should
read zero volts. [The average of the DCC track voltage without
any 'analog loco offset' is supposed to be zero. Else the LH100 is
faulty.
2) Try some elses DCC equipt loco that is known to work. Dont re-
program anything. If it too takes off or otherwise cannot run at its
programmed address the LH100 is faulty. If it works, the LH100 is
working properly
3) If someone elses loco works OK but you still can't get the NCE
D13SRJs to work, either they are all faulty (unlikely) or you are
doing something wrong in wiring or programming them.
4) Use a new D13. Just hook it up to track and a loco
motor....skip the loco shell install. Don't change any CVs. It
should work as loco short address 3 right out of the package.
5) Operator error...Re-read and follow all the instructions.
Better yet, get someone local to give you a 'hands on' lesson. In
the end, be sure to disable DC operation mode (CV29) to avoid false
DC runnaways with the D13.
DonV

-----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@...
[mailto:WiringForDCC@...]On Behalf Of hawkhawk22
Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 1:29 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Re: I am going Nutz with decoders ???



John,

I went and wired a different loco up, programed it. and it seems
to
be doing the same thing. i have several decoders all of the brand
D13SRJ, and i am using a Lenz LH100.

I hope that your not thinking of what I just though of, cause Lenz
will hear a nasty note from me LOL

Ray

Re: I am going Nutz with decoders ???

Vollrath, Don <dvollrath@...>
 

Either the Lenz LH100 is putting out DC and your loco decoders are taking off or the NCE decoders are faulty.
Time to
1) Measure track voltage with a Standard DC voltmeter...It should read zero volts. [The average of the DCC track voltage without any 'analog loco offset' is supposed to be zero. Else the LH100 is faulty.
2) Try some elses DCC equipt loco that is known to work. Dont re-program anything. If it too takes off or otherwise cannot run at its programmed address the LH100 is faulty. If it works, the LH100 is working properly
3) If someone elses loco works OK but you still can't get the NCE D13SRJs to work, either they are all faulty (unlikely) or you are doing something wrong in wiring or programming them.
4) Use a new D13. Just hook it up to track and a loco motor....skip the loco shell install. Don't change any CVs. It should work as loco short address 3 right out of the package.
5) Operator error...Re-read and follow all the instructions. Better yet, get someone local to give you a 'hands on' lesson. In the end, be sure to disable DC operation mode (CV29) to avoid false DC runnaways with the D13.
DonV

-----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@...
[mailto:WiringForDCC@...]On Behalf Of hawkhawk22
Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 1:29 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Re: I am going Nutz with decoders ???



John,

I went and wired a different loco up, programed it. and it seems to
be doing the same thing. i have several decoders all of the brand
D13SRJ, and i am using a Lenz LH100.

I hope that your not thinking of what I just though of, cause Lenz
will hear a nasty note from me LOL

Ray