Date   
From Rail Command to DCC

ivaraas <ivar-aas@...>
 

I shall change from CVP's Rail Command, to Easy DCC from the same
company. I use Bruce Chubbs C/MRI for CTC signaling. Today I use 2
boosters and shall do that with DCC too. All my grounds (from rail,
detectors and C/MRI) are grounded togheter. I have gaps in both rails
in one place, so the two boosters have one part each to feed. But
they are grounded togheter as I say at one point.

As I read about DCC and boosters, I understand the new DCC boosters
can not be grounded that way. But what do I do with my 30+
detectors(Bruce Chubbs Optimezed Detectors), they too share the
common
side of rails.
Do I have to cut my motherboards apart and feed detectors in each of
the two parts of rail, separately?

Are there anything else I have to think about?

Hope you understand my english.

Ivar

Re: Decoder Made Just for Tortoise Switch Machines

Mark Gurries
 

i am using dcc turnout control and would like to add this function. I
don't
want to change out all my stationary decoders. Any thoughts?
Steve,

I'm not sure I understand your question. You don't need to change the
decoders in your locomotives. You just need to start using the Hare.
Maybe this answers your question.

Are you already using DCC turnout control? Are you wanting to add
this capability to exisiting DCC turnout control?

Are you using toggle switches to control your Tortoises? Are you
wanting to add this capability to your existing toggle switches?

Allan
Allan, he stated his stationary decoders. Not locomotive. Stationary
Decoders is a NMRA name for what most people call accessory Decoders.

Steve, this feature is tied to stationary decoder and not the DCC system
or the engine decoders you use. To use this feature, unfortunately you
would have to change all you switch machine stationary decoders to the
"Hare" type. It the only switch machine decoder that can do this
without involving a computer or custom electronics.

However, if the issue is a reverse loop or turning wye, there are other
solutions for that come in the form of electronic autoreversers.

Best Regards,

Mark Gurries
Linear Technology
Power Supply & Battery Charger Applications Engineer/Manager
---------------------------------------------------------
Model Railroad Club and NMRA DCC presentations are at:
http://www.siliconvalleylines.com/index.html
--------------------------------------------------------
Audio Enthusiast (Love SAE equipment)
http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/gurriesm/
----------------------------------------------------------

Decoder Installation in Proto 2000 FA1/FB1

Benjamin Abbott <benjy14@...>
 

Hi,

I have recently purchased a Lifelife Proto 2000 FA1/FB1 set and wish
to install a DCC decoder in to each engine. These are the 1st Release
of these models, and as such, there are no specific DCC instructions
included (unlike in later Proto 2000 models). However, having
examined the circuit board in each model, there *does* appear to be a
NMRA Standard 8-pin socket... This contains a dummy plug for DC
operation that is easily removed. However, I am uncertain as to
whether or not this really is a DCC socket and, if it is, which way
round I should plug in the decoder (i.e. which is Pin 1?).

Can anybody help me out on this one...?

Thanks,

Ben

Re: From Rail Command to DCC

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...>
 

Ivar,

Manufacturers generally do not permit the outputs of their boosters to
be tied together. It is not clear from your message where your
grounds are. The important thing is that your booster outputs not be
tied together. If you have a common rail or a common ground connected
to the OUTPUTS of your boosters, you will likely have a problem. You
will need to separate these as well as the common rail that may tie
your C/MRI together.

Allan

Re: Decoder Installation in Proto 2000 FA1/FB1

dbtognod <tolars@...>
 

Benjamin Abbott asked:
I have recently purchased a Lifelife Proto 2000 FA1/FB1 set
********snip**********
However, I am uncertain as to
whether or not this really is a DCC socket and, if it is, which way
round I should plug in the decoder (i.e. which is Pin 1?).
Hello Ben.
As I model Santa Fe I don't have any FA1/FB1 units, but take a look
at:
http://www.gatewaynmra.org/dcc/engines/p2k-fa1.htm
for a picture of the installation.

Regarding the orientation af the plug just try it in.
If you have problems with lights or things seem to work backwards
just turn it around, no harm done.

Kind regards
Tom Larsen
Holte, Denmark
www.goldenspike.dk

Staging Track Electrical connection philosophy

Blair & Rasa
 

Hi again
For those of you who are Layout Construction list members, this will be deja
vu; please play along, or delete now, with my apologies.
For the others
I have a 12 track, 20' long double ended staging yard in the building
stages. Traffic out both ends of the yard run through the same interchange
junction with my focus railroad. Switches are C100 Peco Insulfrog. I am
putting optical detectors at each end of the clearance zone of each track,
as well as one centrally to indicate occupancy. I am now leaning towards
switching each yard track individually, with power to each track governed by
switch location. i.e. a maximum of two tracks can be powered, if the
ladders at each end select different tracks. cutting power to the tracks
individually
- reduces power consumption on the DCC boosters (not a big concern)
- isolates locos in the staging tracks so they're not continuously 'cooking'
when the layout is powered.
- helps to reduce derailments, as in order to have movement, you have to at
least know which unit you are operating, and which track it is on; it
doesn't guarantee you won't try to run out the wrong end of the yard, but
hey...

Control of the yard and it's block power doesn't particularly concern me
right now, as much as ensuring that I have flexibility down the road. If I
decide later that I should power the whole yard as a "block", it will be
easy to do; retroactively separating the feeders and running extra busses
will be much more difficult later.

Multiple booster power districts

Dale Gloer
 

I have a question about multiple boosters and locomotives, especially
brass steam locomotives, at the boundary between booster power
districts. My question is: how do I prevent a locomotive with
asymmetric power pick up (like most brass steam) from stalling at the
power district boundary? If I am using all Digitrax boosters and have
the ground pins all connected, does this eliminate the problem?

On my layout, I have a DCS100 which is powering everything except the
engine terminal, which is powered by an Easy DCC booster. The Easy
DCC booster doesn't have a ground pin like the Digitrax does. When a
steamer hits the boundary it stops.

As far as I can tell the DCS100 establishes the ground at half the DCC
voltage with 4 diodes in series connected in reverse polarity to the
DCC track signal between rail A and B and the ground pin is connected
between diodes 2 and 3. I once tried using the same scheme on the
Easy DCC booster and it somewhat mitigated the problem for low current
engines because while they were crossing the boundary they saw half
voltage and continued to run. But the high current engines will still
stall at slow speed. Would an all Digitrax system prevent this
problem or have I understood the design correctly and the same problem
will still exist?

Dale.

DCC wiring

zekda99 <zekda99@...>
 

Hi I am new to this, snd trying to figure out how to wire a new setup.
using prodigy Advance system.

A couple of things I'd like to know:

1: do I need a booster if next area is 35 ft away, this is the
turntable area basically only...yards are only 10' away. (from main)

2: I am using plastic inusulators instead of cutting track and
soldering (am using track wire connectors)

3: Do have a tad of experience with electroncis due due to 20 yrs
working with the Cdn air force....(you know the ones that use duct
tape and lockiwire to hold things together)

4: main thing is i want to put in a lighting system at my control
panel with a green light when all is okay but switching to a red lite
when there is a short. 0AND I HAVE REAL PROPLEMS FINGING DECODERS TO
FIT BACHMANN, PECO EETC ENGINGES.....NO SOUND INFOLVED...'


PLEASE TRY TO HELP ME AS IT COSTS A FORTUNE FOR EVERY SCREWUP I MKE..


mT

Re: DCC wiring

Vollrath, Don <dvollrath@...>
 

You don't really need a separate booster for just the engine service / turntable area just because it is 35 ft away. Power that section with a separate bus run from the existing booster or simply extend the existing DCC bus along the track leading to that area of the layout. But use twisted pair wiring, 14-18 ga, and put an R-C terminator at the far end. {0.1 MFD 50V, 150 ohms 2W)

Using the rubber/plastic insulated rail joiners for gapping rail is a good idea. Easier than cutting rail. Provides a positive 'plug' to prevent the gap from closing.

But learn how to solder small (20-22 ga) feeder drop wires to the rail. Use plenty of these to conduct rail current so that you almost never rely on a slip-joint type rail joiner between rail sections to conduct current.

DonV

-----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@...
[mailto:WiringForDCC@...]On Behalf Of zekda99
Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 1:17 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] DCC wiring


Hi I am new to this, snd trying to figure out how to wire a new setup.
using prodigy Advance system.

A couple of things I'd like to know:

1: do I need a booster if next area is 35 ft away, this is the
turntable area basically only...yards are only 10' away. (from main)

2: I am using plastic inusulators instead of cutting track and
soldering (am using track wire connectors)

3: Do have a tad of experience with electroncis due due to 20 yrs
working with the Cdn air force....(you know the ones that use duct
tape and lockiwire to hold things together)

4: main thing is i want to put in a lighting system at my control
panel with a green light when all is okay but switching to a red lite
when there is a short. 0AND I HAVE REAL PROPLEMS FINGING DECODERS TO
FIT BACHMANN, PECO EETC ENGINGES.....NO SOUND INFOLVED...'


PLEASE TRY TO HELP ME AS IT COSTS A FORTUNE FOR EVERY SCREWUP I MKE..


mT





http://www.WiringForDCC.com
Yahoo! Groups Links

Re: Multiple booster power districts

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...>
 

Dale,

I'm back from the convention and ran the test as promised. I ran
several Rivarossi locomotives that have asymetrical power pickups and
confirmed that all ran without any problem, even at very slow speeds,
between booster districts. Both boosters used in the test were
Digitrax boosters.

Allan

Re: Multiple booster power districts

Mark Gurries
 

Digitrax recommends "Home Ground" wiring...tying all the booster grounds
together. Loconet also forms a home ground too in parallel. But it is
not intended to carry any current. Without the home ground wiring, the
boosters will still work with asymmetrical pickup locomotives, BUT your
running a risk since your depending on the very small low current
loconet ground wires to carry very high booster currents! Not design
for or recommended!


Hope this helps.



I have a question about multiple boosters and locomotives, especially
brass steam locomotives, at the boundary between booster power
districts. My question is: how do I prevent a locomotive with
asymmetric power pick up (like most brass steam) from stalling at the
power district boundary? If I am using all Digitrax boosters and have
the ground pins all connected, does this eliminate the problem?

On my layout, I have a DCS100 which is powering everything except the
engine terminal, which is powered by an Easy DCC booster. The Easy
DCC booster doesn't have a ground pin like the Digitrax does. When a
steamer hits the boundary it stops.

As far as I can tell the DCS100 establishes the ground at half the DCC
voltage with 4 diodes in series connected in reverse polarity to the
DCC track signal between rail A and B and the ground pin is connected
between diodes 2 and 3. I once tried using the same scheme on the
Easy DCC booster and it somewhat mitigated the problem for low current
engines because while they were crossing the boundary they saw half
voltage and continued to run. But the high current engines will still
stall at slow speed. Would an all Digitrax system prevent this
problem or have I understood the design correctly and the same problem
will still exist?

Dale.




http://www.WiringForDCC.com
Yahoo! Groups Links






Best Regards,

Mark Gurries
Linear Technology
Power Supply & Battery Charger Applications Engineer/Manager
---------------------------------------------------------
Model Railroad Club and NMRA DCC presentations are at:
http://www.siliconvalleylines.com/index.html
--------------------------------------------------------
Audio Enthusiast (Love SAE equipment)
http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/gurriesm/
----------------------------------------------------------

Dual gauge wiring for DCC

gcodori
 

Hi, first post...

Are there any references for wiring dual gauge trackage (switches) to
be DCC friendly?

I have a layout design where a narrow gauge line deviates from the dual
gauge trackage (the dual gauge trackage becomes seperate lines of
standard and narrow gauge).

Any ideas on wiring something like this?

Thanks!

Re: Dual gauge wiring for DCC

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...>
 

Greg,

I'm pretty well caught up with things, so I'll try to add material on
dual gauge wiring this summer.

I will go visit a layout with dual gauge track and see what was done
or should have been done. Then I will make some drawings as needed.

What brand of turnouts are you using?

Allan

Re: Dual gauge wiring for DCC

gcodori
 

--- In WiringForDCC@..., "wirefordcc" <wire4dcc_admin@c...>
wrote:
Greg,

I'm pretty well caught up with things, so I'll try to add material on
dual gauge wiring this summer.

I will go visit a layout with dual gauge track and see what was done
or should have been done. Then I will make some drawings as needed.

What brand of turnouts are you using?

Allan
I haven't decided what brand to use, but most likely will either hand
lay or use a peco switch (n scale) and build a HO/HOn30 switch out of
it. My intention was to have the standard gauge continue straight and
have the HOn30 deviate off to the left. I thought an easy solution was
to use a left hand switch (n scale) and add the standard gauge track to
it.

Does that make much sense?

Greg

Re: Dual gauge wiring for DCC

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...>
 

Greg,

Regarding your idea for your trackwork, try asking your question on a
Yahoo group on narrow gauge. I think I've seen a way for a narrow
gauge track to diverge from a standard gauge track without using a
turnout. I'm sure you can get good advice about your dual gauge needs
and how you should approach it on a narrow gauge chat group. I don't
want to try to give advice on a topic I know little about.

I'm going to visit my friends dual gauge layout and study it. Look
for dual gauge information on my website later this summer. Go to
http://home.comcast.net/~wire4dcc_admin and sign up for update
announcements. When I update the Wiring For DCC website, you will
receive an announcement.

Allan

Re: DCC have to be controlled by computer?

snorring@...
 

dcc doesn't have to be controlled by a computer. DCC does require a pwer
supply that is DCC not DC.

DCC have to be controlled by computer?

oreboats <adam@...>
 

Does DCC have to be controlled by a computer? Can you use a normal DC
power supply and the have an encoder send the signals? How hard is it
to program DCC?

Re: Dual gauge wiring for DCC

Jan Frelin <jan.frelin@...>
 

Greg, have you seen Tillig products? They seem close to what you want. (H0e
= H0n30).
/Jan

At 16:16 2005-06-10 +0000, Greg Codori wrote:

--- In WiringForDCC@..., "wirefordcc" <wire4dcc_admin@c...>
wrote:
Greg,

I'm pretty well caught up with things, so I'll try to add material on
dual gauge wiring this summer.

I will go visit a layout with dual gauge track and see what was done
or should have been done. Then I will make some drawings as needed.

What brand of turnouts are you using?

Allan
I haven't decided what brand to use, but most likely will either hand
lay or use a peco switch (n scale) and build a HO/HOn30 switch out of
it. My intention was to have the standard gauge continue straight and
have the HOn30 deviate off to the left. I thought an easy solution was
to use a left hand switch (n scale) and add the standard gauge track to
it.

Does that make much sense?

Greg




<http://www.WiringForDCC.com>http://www.WiringForDCC.com



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Re: DCC have to be controlled by computer?

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...>
 

You might find this webpage on DCC for Beginners interesting:

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/intro2dcc.htm

Allan


--- In WiringForDCC@..., "oreboats" <adam@r...> wrote:
Does DCC have to be controlled by a computer? Can you use a normal
DC
power supply and the have an encoder send the signals? How hard is
it
to program DCC?

Directional Differences

stephenaslancaster <stephenlancaster@...>
 

Hello I am New to to this group
I have a new Rivarossi Heisler locomotive,into which I plugged
a Digitrax dz143pn decoder. In reverse it runs great,however in
forward it runs poorly,it jerks along and takes more voltage to get it
to start.
I have asked in other forums and got some feedback about the circuit
board ie cutting out some caps,but have upon examination that it has
alot of surface mount componates. Any ideas?
Thanks Stephen