Date   

Wiring Blocks Common Rail or Isolate both rails?

steve <snorring@...>
 

I have a layout with blocked sections. I isolated both rails in each
section. I am using DCC and will be installing a BD4 to operate
signals through an SRC24.

Do i need to open 1 rail and make it common through the entire layout,
or can i leave both rails isolated? I have all my power comming
through a 4 block circuit breaker.

Thanks for your help.

Steve


Re: Mounting Hankscraft switches to foam board?

brian1961go <brian1961go@...>
 

That is a great idea! Do you recommend a small square of masonite
per switch or cover the bottom of the foamboard? I'd prefer a small
square if you think Foamnails or gorilla glue will hold. They are
modules and trying to keep them lightweight.

Thanks, Brian


--- In WiringForDCC@..., "wirefordcc"
<wire4dcc_admin@c...> wrote:

Brian,

Interesting question. I once had a need to glue foam board to a
Tuperware lid. The Tuperware is a similar kind of plastic as used
in
the Rix bracket. It can't be done as far as I can tell. I had a
hard
time finding an adhesive that would firmly grip the plastic.
Then,
any adhesive that would adhere to the lid ate right through the
foam
board. I have not tried every glue out there, and since my
experiment
new glues have hit the market, like Gorilla glue. So there may
still
be some hope.

Note: You may not want to glue your switch machine to your foam.
If
you don't mount it in the right spot the first time, or need to
remove
it for any reason, it will take a chunk of layout with you. Why
don't
you glue a piece of masonite to your foam and then screw mount
your
switch machine to that? You will then be able to remove your
switchmacine. Elmer's carpenter glue works on blue foam as well
as
hot melt. The Elmer's may take a few days to dry. But the hot
melt
may loose it's grip over time.


Re: Mounting Hankscraft switches to foam board?

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...>
 

Brian,

I would think a small square of masonite or 1/4" piece of wood
should do just fine. Just be careful when putting in your screws.
Don't put them in too tight or you will strip the holes.

Allan


--- In WiringForDCC@..., "brian1961go"
<brian1961go@y...> wrote:

That is a great idea! Do you recommend a small square of masonite
per switch or cover the bottom of the foamboard? I'd prefer a
small
square if you think Foamnails or gorilla glue will hold. They are
modules and trying to keep them lightweight.

Thanks, Brian


--- In WiringForDCC@..., "wirefordcc"
<wire4dcc_admin@c...> wrote:

Brian,

Interesting question. I once had a need to glue foam board to a
Tuperware lid. The Tuperware is a similar kind of plastic as
used
in
the Rix bracket. It can't be done as far as I can tell. I had
a
hard
time finding an adhesive that would firmly grip the plastic.
Then,
any adhesive that would adhere to the lid ate right through the
foam
board. I have not tried every glue out there, and since my
experiment
new glues have hit the market, like Gorilla glue. So there may
still
be some hope.

Note: You may not want to glue your switch machine to your
foam.
If
you don't mount it in the right spot the first time, or need to
remove
it for any reason, it will take a chunk of layout with you. Why
don't
you glue a piece of masonite to your foam and then screw mount
your
switch machine to that? You will then be able to remove your
switchmacine. Elmer's carpenter glue works on blue foam as well
as
hot melt. The Elmer's may take a few days to dry. But the hot
melt
may loose it's grip over time.


Re: Mounting Hankscraft switches to foam board?

Vollrath, Don <dvollrath@...>
 

polyurethane (gorilla glue) and laytex type (liquid nails) construction adhesive for FOAM projects will also stick well to wood & foam. I'd use 1/4 inch plywood as the porous nature of real wood makes it is easier for glue and wood screws to grip into the grain. Some types of masonite tend to be slick & be hard.

Experiment with a few samples & let us all know what seems to work best.
DonV

-----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@...
[mailto:WiringForDCC@...]On Behalf Of wirefordcc
Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2005 9:42 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Re: Mounting Hankscraft switches to foam board?




Brian,

I would think a small square of masonite or 1/4" piece of wood
should do just fine. Just be careful when putting in your screws.
Don't put them in too tight or you will strip the holes.

Allan


--- In WiringForDCC@..., "brian1961go"
<brian1961go@y...> wrote:

That is a great idea! Do you recommend a small square of masonite
per switch or cover the bottom of the foamboard? I'd prefer a
small
square if you think Foamnails or gorilla glue will hold. They are
modules and trying to keep them lightweight.

Thanks, Brian


--- In WiringForDCC@..., "wirefordcc"
<wire4dcc_admin@c...> wrote:

Brian,

Interesting question. I once had a need to glue foam board to a
Tuperware lid. The Tuperware is a similar kind of plastic as
used
in
the Rix bracket. It can't be done as far as I can tell. I had
a
hard
time finding an adhesive that would firmly grip the plastic.
Then,
any adhesive that would adhere to the lid ate right through the
foam
board. I have not tried every glue out there, and since my
experiment
new glues have hit the market, like Gorilla glue. So there may
still
be some hope.

Note: You may not want to glue your switch machine to your
foam.
If
you don't mount it in the right spot the first time, or need to
remove
it for any reason, it will take a chunk of layout with you. Why
don't
you glue a piece of masonite to your foam and then screw mount
your
switch machine to that? You will then be able to remove your
switchmacine. Elmer's carpenter glue works on blue foam as well
as
hot melt. The Elmer's may take a few days to dry. But the hot
melt
may loose it's grip over time.




http://www.WiringForDCC.com
Yahoo! Groups Links


Turntable Wiring

autumns_ridge
 

I just purchased an Atlas turntable with the motor drive unit and
I would like to know how to wire it for DCC. Is it done like a wye or
a reverse loop? I have a Digitrax reversing loop controler(#pm42).
Would this be the ticket?

Any help would be great.

Philip


Re: Turntable Wiring

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...>
 

Yes, Philip, just wire like a reverse loop using one set of outputs
from the PM42.

Allan

--- In WiringForDCC@..., "autumns_ridge"
<autumns_ridge@y...> wrote:

I just purchased an Atlas turntable with the motor drive unit
and
I would like to know how to wire it for DCC. Is it done like a wye
or
a reverse loop? I have a Digitrax reversing loop controler(#pm42).
Would this be the ticket?

Any help would be great.

Philip


Re: Wiring Blocks Common Rail or Isolate both rails?

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...>
 

Steve,

I'm not quite sure I am following your question. Maybe I'm not
following you as to how you have your railroad wired. I think you are
okay with what you have.

Here is the URL from my website that shows two rails with all the
associated wiring. http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track_2.htm#b1

The heavy black lines are labeled Rail "A" and "B".

I double gap everything. I find it is easier on my sanity. That's
just a personal choice. If you have double gapped everything, you
are fine.

Notice that my rail "B" has many gaps in it, but those gaps are
effectively bridged by the white wire. The white wire is labeled
COMMON BUS on the drawing. Notice however, that the white and the
black for each booster are NOT connected together. NEVER connect the
outputs of boosters together. DO NOT have a common between boosters.

Hopefully, this information and the drawing answer your question.

Allan


--- In WiringForDCC@..., "steve" <snorring@a...> wrote:

I have a layout with blocked sections. I isolated both rails in
each
section. I am using DCC and will be installing a BD4 to operate
signals through an SRC24.

Do i need to open 1 rail and make it common through the entire
layout,
or can i leave both rails isolated? I have all my power comming
through a 4 block circuit breaker.

Thanks for your help.

Steve


Re: Wiring Blocks Common Rail or Isolate both rails?

steve <snorring@...>
 

My problem is that i have a BD4 occupancy detector, which i am
trying to use to trigger a DS54. All Blocks run through a
Powershield circuit breaker and are all on one booster.

the BD4 doesn't seem to be sensing and i'm not sure i'm connecting
it correctly. Any assitance would be apreciated.


--- In WiringForDCC@..., "wirefordcc"
<wire4dcc_admin@c...> wrote:

Steve,

I'm not quite sure I am following your question. Maybe I'm not
following you as to how you have your railroad wired. I think you
are
okay with what you have.

Here is the URL from my website that shows two rails with all the
associated wiring. http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track_2.htm#b1

The heavy black lines are labeled Rail "A" and "B".

I double gap everything. I find it is easier on my sanity.
That's
just a personal choice. If you have double gapped everything, you
are fine.

Notice that my rail "B" has many gaps in it, but those gaps are
effectively bridged by the white wire. The white wire is labeled
COMMON BUS on the drawing. Notice however, that the white and
the
black for each booster are NOT connected together. NEVER connect
the
outputs of boosters together. DO NOT have a common between
boosters.

Hopefully, this information and the drawing answer your question.

Allan


--- In WiringForDCC@..., "steve" <snorring@a...> wrote:

I have a layout with blocked sections. I isolated both rails in
each
section. I am using DCC and will be installing a BD4 to operate
signals through an SRC24.

Do i need to open 1 rail and make it common through the entire
layout,
or can i leave both rails isolated? I have all my power comming
through a 4 block circuit breaker.

Thanks for your help.

Steve


Re: Wiring Blocks Common Rail or Isolate both rails?

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...>
 

Steve,

You have 4 possible areas of failure:

1. The BD4 isn't wired up correctly to the track. I don't see the
BD4 manual on Digitrax's website so I can't help you much. I am
using BD1s which require that a particular terminal go to your
track. If the BD4 is like this, make sure you have it wired up
correctly. You may want to connect your BD4 temporarily directly to
your booster and a short section of track for test purposes.

2. The BD4 isn't wired up correctly to the DS54. You will just
have to consult the manuals for the BD4 and DS54.

3. Your DS54 isn't programmed correctly. I provide a table of CV
values for your DS54 which will enable block detection and send
Loconet messages. http://www.wiringfordcc.com/sw_ctl.htm#a14

4. Your method of displaying detection messages on Loconet isn't
set up correctly. I assume you are using a computer to detect to
your Loconet messages from the DS54. You should also see messages
from your throttles. Make sure it is picking them up.


DT100

lhannahan <lhannahan@...>
 

I got some answers earlier. I just don't quite get it yet. If anybody
can help me again, my DT100 is showing FF on the right hand side of the
throttle. This of course, makes it unable to key in a loco address. I
know the FF means the DCS100 is full. Can someone help me by telling me
HOW to do away with the FF and get it back to normal? What I really
need, is some detail steps on how to do this. I looked all over the
book and cannot find the answer. Who ever can help me through this
trauma; this will be most appreciated, please send me an e-mail at
lhannahan@.... Thanks in advance.


Re: DT100

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...>
 

If you want a detailed answer, you are going to have to wait about a
week and half when I have more time. Here is what you need to do.

You need to clear the Chief's slots. If my memory serves me right,
check options 32 thru 36. One of them is labeled something like
clear roster, slots, or locos. If you are not using routes and
things, it won't hurt to clear them all.

To clear an option, flip the DCS100 to OPT. Using your DT100, hit
mode until a black dot appears under Switch. Then dial up the option
you want to change. Then press the c or t key. If you are not sure
whether to hit c or t, hit them both (one at a time).

Hopefully, this is enough info for you. Otherwise, you will need to
wait until I am done with final exams.


Re: DT100

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...>
 

If you need to be stepped through it before I finish exams next week,
call Digitrax tech support.

Note: Normally, your slots should not get full. Be sure to dispatch
your locomotives before removing the battery from your throttle.
Dispatching clears the loco from the slot.

Allan


anologe train runs very slow on dcc address oo

mhn_416 <mhn_416@...>
 

i have a digitrax operating system power on ytacks read 7.5volts
x2=15volts.however when i try to run an anologe train on the address
00 the train runs very slowly i have tried dfferent anologe trains
with the same result. any suggestions?
peter


Fw: [Digitrax] DT 300

Jim McMahon <hotrains@...>
 

Tried the Digitrax group maybe someone here has an answer.

----- Original Message -----
From: "hotrains2001" <hotrains@...>
To: <Digitrax@...>
Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2005 8:59 PM
Subject: [Digitrax] DT 300


i have a DCS 100 DB150 PM42 BdL162 Ur91.
My UP 3/5's are powered when i turn off the system with UP 3/5 still powered My DT 400R &DT300R show PS my DT 300 no longer shows PS it used to it now shows IDLE.
Digitrax did not know what i should do other than turn it upside down & spank it.That hasn't worked.
Would appreciate any ideas.
Thank in advance.
Jim McMahon


Re: Digest Number 27

Ulrich Albrecht <albreuf@...>
 

Analog engines will run slower on DCC as the did with DC. It is in the
nature of the way how analog engines are handled: A part of the DCC
signal is stretched either in the positve or ngative part (depending on
the direction of travel) to create a positive or negative bias in the
signal. This bias is what drives the engine, but it can never reach the
full strength of a DC-signal.

Ulrich

On 2 May 2005 WiringForDCC@... wrote:

There is 1 message in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. anologe train runs very slow on dcc address oo
From: "mhn_416" <mhn_416@...>


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 02 May 2005 02:25:05 -0000
From: "mhn_416" <mhn_416@...>
Subject: anologe train runs very slow on dcc address oo

i have a digitrax operating system power on ytacks read 7.5volts
x2=15volts.however when i try to run an anologe train on the address
00 the train runs very slowly i have tried dfferent anologe trains
with the same result. any suggestions?
peter





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


http://www.WiringForDCC.com
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links




------------------------------------------------------------------------




Re: Fw: [Digitrax] DT 300

Dale Gloer
 

I have a similar configuration to yours ecxept all my throttles are
DT100R or DT100IR and one ancient DT100. I have noticed that when I
turn off power (the UP3/5s are powered) that the throttles show PS
or IDLE, not always the same display on each throttle. I
investigated a bit and couldn't come up with an explanation. So I
don't worry about it. It doesn't seem to affect battery life (I
leave the batteries installed all the time).

Dale.


--- In WiringForDCC@..., "Jim McMahon" <hotrains@n...>
wrote:
Tried the Digitrax group maybe someone here has an answer.
----- Original Message -----
From: "hotrains2001" <hotrains@n...>
To: <Digitrax@...>
Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2005 8:59 PM
Subject: [Digitrax] DT 300


i have a DCS 100 DB150 PM42 BdL162 Ur91.
My UP 3/5's are powered when i turn off the system with UP 3/5
still
powered My DT 400R &DT300R show PS my DT 300 no longer shows PS
it
used to it now shows IDLE.
Digitrax did not know what i should do other than turn it upside
down
& spank it.That hasn't worked.
Would appreciate any ideas.

Thank in advance.

Jim McMahon


Re: Fw: [Digitrax] DT 300

Jim McMahon <hotrains@...>
 

Thanks dale i no longer feel alone.
This DT 300 pluged into the same up 5 seems to show idle or PS when ever it feels like.i don't know of battery life yet time will tell.

Jim


infrared operation digitrax

mhn_416 <mhn_416@...>
 

i have set up an infrared system on my lay out . my question to you is
when in the tetherless mode with analog train certain functions do not
work such as reverse ,emergancy stop. have i done something wrong in my
set up .dt 400 throttle, ir operation with 2 ur90's

peter.


Re: infrared operation digitrax

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...>
 

Peter,

I am running Digitrax wireless. I don't have any experience with
the IR. However, I can say that in wireless everything works as it
should. I can't think of any reasons why IR should be any
different. Does everything work properly when you are plugged into
Loconet directly?

I think you asked another Digitrax questions a few days ago
regarding running on analog address 00. Long term operation on
address 00 can damage some motors. Also, if the locomotive is
running on track where the booster is set to autoreverse, the
locomotive may leap into reverse derailing your train. So use of
address 00 is probably best used for testing out new locomotives but
not day to day operation.

Allan


--- In WiringForDCC@..., "mhn_416" <mhn_416@y...> wrote:
i have set up an infrared system on my lay out . my question to
you is
when in the tetherless mode with analog train certain functions do
not
work such as reverse ,emergancy stop. have i done something wrong
in my
set up .dt 400 throttle, ir operation with 2 ur90's

peter.


The Most Aggravating Layout

hazel6ton <hazel6ton@...>
 

I have a 4 by 8 layout which I recently converted to DCC. I am using a
Digitrax Zephyr System. It initially ran well at first, but then I
started getting sporadic response in my engines. I especially get this
sporadic response around 18" radius turns and in my turnouts.

My layout consists of an outside oval mainline interconnected to an
inside oval at several locations by turnouts.

I am running two Proto 2000 engines. GP7 equipped with a Soundtraxx
decoder. Also a Alco S-1 with a Digitrax decoder.

What is uncanny about all this is my engines ran well then just
started to barely respond to DCC.

My analog engine runs better than my decoder engines.

Can anyone shed light on this problem?