Charles.... I wrote this very long reply, which I believe could have possibly alienated many a Model Railroader of today but not a Model Railroader of say 1934 in his Attic, Basement or Family Room of

Thank you John, I'll check those joiners on the inside rails.

Hi! I just acquired an older version of this turnout. It was installed, but going through it, it always shorts out my DCC system. What's going on? It is installed like any other switch. There are Kato

There should be a very fine wire coming out from under the point to the left or right (depending on hand if point) to which you can solder a feed from one of the Tortoise auxiliary switches which are

Jim, If you haven't already seen the diagram I have of the Peco Electrofrog on my website, check it out at: http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches_peco.htm#a2 I've never soldered to a Peco Electrofrog

It sounds like you failed to use insulated joiners on the two inside rails at the point end of the frog. There is no substitute for doing that. Once you install the insulated joiners, you may be

Charles, My answer may or may not be applicable, depending on the brand in question. I use PECO code 55 electrofrog turnouts, which strangely enough ALL have #6 frogs. Small, Medium and Large

All, I have an issue with my Peco Electrofrog turnout with DCC. It seems that I have may have failed to modify the turnout, and also have definitely failed to connect the frog to my tortoise switch

Mark - Do your steam locomotives with 8 connected drivers need #8 or gentler turnouts/switches? Thanks. Charles

Ah? You might want to consider...Getting that 2-6-6-4 right away and begin to use it as one of your primary track testers.... With SOUND Not a GP-7 which is one of the easiest locomotives to

Mark, et al., I am also in N Scale, new to DCC, and coming at it from the other end. I am building a roughly 8’ x 18’ irregular shaped mountain layout Code 55 Peco track and Electrofrog

No-ox-id A type grease continues to work very well for me.  After application I remove all that I can with a Masonite type board.  What is left does not attract dust and largely prevents the black

Ah Duh Me? I have done and used all of the above...and yes have two or three of those Altas/Tomix Vacuum Cars as well as the Brass Oil Tank car and then some more as in AZTEC Box Cars. I have used

Hello all, Not sure I am gong to ask this question in the most appropriate way... However.... After I purchased my first DCC Controller, an MRC PA -2, I was soon advised to purchase some sort of

How about more details about the vacuum car? Peace, Mike G.

Good points. Something else I should have mentioned. FLAMMABILITY. Regular isopropyl alcohol that you buy at the drug store is 91% alcohol, 9% water (both of which are highly polar.) The water is

i have found that the main problem is dust, even in a basement with finished floors and ceiling. I was lucky enough to get one of the Korean Brass vacuum cars. It is amazing. Absolutely incredible

My two cents comes with a caveat – choice of cleaning solutions may vary with the kind of dirt. I am still actively building in N code 55, so I end up with a lot of rosin flux and sawdust on my

NCE booster allow adjustment of the track voltage. How depends on what version of the booster you have. Older NCE boosters that ran on AC or DC input power had a track voltage potentiometer

Al - EXCELLENT ! I am by nature a Historian, having traced out my own American History back to the 1600's. So it simply makes sense to me to be sitting right next to a Bound Book of The Model