The following files and folders have been uploaded to the Files area of the w4dccqa@groups.io group. /AR10.docx By: Tom Grassi <trgrassijr@...> Description: My layout

Guys, I put a Doc in the files section showing my diagram I hope that helps better explain My layout diagram for the reverse loop issue AR10 AR10.docx When I insulated a track both rails have

Hi, Tom. Your description isn't 100% clear. I'm not sure you've gapped both rails of both ends of your reversing section,. That is essential, so if you haven't done so, it is the first step toward a

Tom. Please tell us what you found And fixed to help others. DonV

Tom, Reverse loops are pretty simple - once you understand it. Basic premise is that the entire reverse loop is -only- powered via the reverser. As in - the reverse loop does not share power with

I figured this out thanks -- Tom Grassi trgrassijr@...

Hello Hope all is well I have a simple setup here. I have one track Black wire on inside rail and red wire on outside rail that connects to a right hand Atlas Powered frog turnout.

I also used V blocks cut from plywood. For repeated alignment. Magnets were for powering 2 track plus 3' on each side of bridge. I also made a swing bridge, using a door and door know as alighnment

This topic most helpful as I am installing a swing gate as we speak. I also was thinking of plunger switch but need to wire it so providing power while closed rather than the normal powered while open

I'm not able to locate a part # at this time, but there are fairly high-current push buttons. I'm thinking of three closets at my (new-to-me) home, that turn on 115VAC lights when the door is opened.

Dave, Yes - DCC. I'm not even retaining the ability to run DC. Yes, I always gap both rails when doing any "blocks". I also use PSX circuit breakers between the booster and the track for all

Jim, Your comment to Wouter re Keep Alive’s leads me to believe you use DCC to run your trains and not DC. The DC current concern becomes a non-issue. Where you gap your track, The relay becomes

I used a limit roller switch on one rail to turn off the power when it was up. It worked for 8-10 years without a hitch. No relay required, since the switch was over 2 A, and the engines didn't draw

Ron, Thanks. The magnetic door locks is a method I hadn't heard about. One guy I know did lift outs like you are doing and used "V-blocks" of plywood for locating/re-locating the lift out each

Wouter, I know all about keep alives - and install them on ALL of my locomotives.. I'm not worried - the dead track will be almost a meter long and that will stop any train at any speed with any

I went to a lift out bridge method. I wired 3' space on either side of bridge, I used the magnetic door locks, like you would use for cabinet doors, I soldered a wire on each lock, Basically if

Jim, Dead track is all very well, but the day you install a keep-alive in a loco you find you've shot yourself in the foot. Not only will it just carry on (how long will depend on the size of the

Jim, Using a “limit switch” to drive a relay is an excellent idea. My suggestion is use a low AC voltage in the control circuit. Note the current ratings on the switch you showed in the link.

Hi Jim, I've seen lift bridges done a couple of different ways. I don't know that there is any particular better way than any other. I'd worry about finding a good way to make sure that the rails on

Hi.. That is basically what I have used. I also decided to route the power so it cut off the tracks on both sides of the opening for 5 feet or so, which required (in my case) two switches. There may