The BOD-8 adjustment range is 1.3-7mA A snubber pulls about 40mA but surely it goes upstream from the detectors - that is closer to the main bus. Max

Congrats Allan! I subscribe to several HO Facebook groups and when people start asking DCC type wiring question I habitually reference wiringfordcc.com J Looking forward to reading you in MR.

So what’s everyone’s thoughts on adding a switch in an extension cord and replace end connector with a metal box and 2 duplex outlets? Wyndell Cognitive Thought & Oppsable Thumbs (CTOT)

Thank you Alan Your page answered many questions I had not yet begun to know I had. :)) Mark

Has anyone tried using the coil-style adjustable block detectors with snubbers? Something like the Team Digital BOD-8? Puckdropper

If I may? That's why I love those WAGO lever nuts. They are rated for AWG 28 to 12. So they hold and connect two or more wires and leave nothing exposed. What I did was strip the wires so that the

Everyone has been giving prudent advice. Let me just add a couple of things. Route your 120/220 VAC wiring away from your bench top so that you don't accidentally drill through it some day. No

Hi Dan, One common snubber at the end of the district that ties all the lines to it should work. Do not put them after the block detector CT (current transformer) coil as you might get a false

Don't use a snubber on leads with current sensors, it will trip them and look occupied all the time. Tim Rumph Lancaster, SC

I am an old electrician and belive in safety both from shock and fire. There is also the concern of picking up 60 cycle interference on your DCC power buss. I route all of my 110vac thru flex conduit

Hi Allan, If my power districts have a single black wire for ground, but up to 4 powered wires which I plan to use for detection (CT Coils using RR-Cirkits products-one red line each for approach,

I was at an old friend's who was having some power supply issues. Receptacles on the layout with no grounding or any way to insure the hot and neutral connections were right. Open 120V wiring under

Hi Allan, Thanks for your response. I am going to twist the track bus wires (three turns per foot) and put snubbers at all the ends. The one longer (40+ feet) bus got me to thinking about an article I

Please do not attempt to wire anything rated 120v. Or higher! More house fires and accidental electrocutions have occurred because a well meaning homeowner (layout owner) thought they were doing

All, I talk about snubbers (bus terminators) in my website at: http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track_2.htm#a47 The information includes where you should put them - at the ends of your buses. This

Ken Harstine Thanks for incredibly useful info. Bill D

You are really going to love it if you need snubbers and don't have them. From my experience: locomotives jerking, stalling, ignoring commands, and loss of brains, and occasionally, burned out

Carl, the symptoms you’ll see is erratic behavior of a loco (stopping, not responding to the throttle, etc.) on a certain part of the track, usually not far from the end of your bus wire. This one

Not aware of codes for low voltage. UL considers anything below 40V as touch safe. So we are left with possible heating of wires. Make sure that all wire connected to a source (12Volts for example)

Check the current flow near the end of each buss. I found a spike near the end of a roughly 45’ buss using my RRamp Meter. I installed an NCE snubber and it disappeared.