IMHO As a modeler, I don't need the accuracy y'all keep talking about. Any device that reads "accurately" is costly. There's no cheap alternative. My free HF meters do everything needed in model

Yep. I have 2 HF meters and they do all that I need. Sure, they make better meters but ya just cannot beat free! W Rusty Lane in eastern Tennessee Jesus said, "I am the way of the Truth and the

Please wrap up this thread as it has wandered off topic for this DCC Q&A forum. Thank you Allan Gartner Wiring For DCC Allan Gartner WiringForDCC.com

All, I have recently added more rail anchors to my website. If you want to refer someone to a specific topic in my website and you see a rail cross section, just click on it. At the top of your

They are actually TWO Lionel so called O Scale Bascule Bridges (circa 1998 Chinese Construction) which are set in stanchions (Lionel Provided) which sit end to end. So...a Train enters one side of the

This thread is off topic. Please wrap it up. Thank you Allan Gartner Wiring For DCC

As I said. This is model railroading. Not rocket science. As for the average, normal model railroader, the cheap HF meters are sufficient to get average readings that help determine voltage loss. I

PECO is made in the U.K./British. ME is made in the U.S. But I found ME harder to work with. PECO is a quality product that IMHO is the better of what's available here in the U.S. The code 83 is

I have a problem with my track. I have PECO code 83 flex, Insulfrog turnouts and code 83 joiners. The joiners are giving me headaches. Not to forget split nails, cut finger tips, etc. I even try

I have a DC loco that has 4 LEDs front and rear. There are two white LEDs and two red LEDs at each end. When running forward in DC mode the two white LEDS light up and two red LEDs in the rear light

I sympathize, and have multiple finger tip scars from those nasty joiners. Using small pliers designed for this very task will avoid the blood. But those joiners are too tight! I have given up

Atlas Model RR co sells a tool specifically for putting on rail joiners. Cat 150-401. Many places to get it from. Three sided tool for code 100, 83 and I forget the other one. Designed to allow

I had the same trouble in N with PECO code 55. I slid a joiner all the way onto a 1-inch piece of track, leaving just enough track exposed to accept a new joiner half way on. I locked the whole thing

I replied via regular email but photo got stripped out, so I uploaded another photo to the web site. I can't figure out how to attach it to this email, but it's on the site if you want to look

I got one of those and it was totally worthless. Just my .02 Tom Anderson Business Information Systems, Inc. P.O. Box 160396 Boiling Springs, SC 29316 (864) 621-8607

Bob, I did exactly what you did. I’m on a blood thinner and every time I would poke myself there was blood everywhere!! Don’t know why they make them so tight.

Might take a gander at this link to see if it might help https://modelrailwayengineer.com/sunday-scribbles-easy-way-fitting-rail-joiners/ Doug Wagner Bakersfield, California

Dennis, you’ll have to give us a lot more information in order for us to help. Is there any circuitboard involved in the wiring? Do the red LEDs only come on in reverse? If you can, draw out the

I appreciate all the advice. I'm not quite clear on that photo and how it works. I do have a home-made tool: 6" piece of rail, bent up about half the length of a joiner. And a wire nut on the top.

With a minor amount of filing on the rail, just enough to remove any burrs, joiners slip into place without any force or cut finger tips. LG