Date   

Re: Wiring LED's in a DCC converted Atlas C-424

Craig Zeni
 

On May 30, 2017, at 2:58 PM, pacific.cascade.ry@comcast.net [WiringForDCC] wrote:



My concern is that if I cut the ends of the light tubes it will rough the ends up and the LED light will not enter the tubes clearly. How can your polish the light tube ends to make them clear again?
I believe you'll find that the rough surface has minimal effect on the light quality; that's been my experience anyway. Your other option (which I've also done) is to put the two LEDs between the existing light guides, over the decoder. Separate them with a piece of something opaque. A side benefit is that one doesn't tie the lights to the shell.

Craig Zeni
Cary NC


Re: Wiring LED's in a DCC converted Atlas C-424

David Klemm
 

The easiest way to 'polish the end' is to use plastic cement to melt the end clear.  It is what I do and works like a charm.


David




From: WiringForDCC@... on behalf of pacific.cascade.ry@... [WiringForDCC]
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2017 1:58 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: RE: [WiringForDCC] Wiring LED's in a DCC converted Atlas C-424
 
 

My concern is that if I cut the ends of the light tubes it will rough the ends up and the LED light will not enter the tubes clearly. How can your polish the light tube ends to make them clear again?

Capt. Brigg Franklin CEO
www.pacificcascaderailway.com

www.pacificcascaderailway.com
I finally sold my Digitrax system for a very reasonable price and purchased a new NCE system, including a Power Cab, SB5 command/booster and Cab 06r for radio control.


Route of the Northern star


Re: Wiring LED's in a DCC converted Atlas C-424

pacific.cascade.ry@...
 

My concern is that if I cut the ends of the light tubes it will rough the ends up and the LED light will not enter the tubes clearly. How can your polish the light tube ends to make them clear again?

Capt. Brigg Franklin CEO
www.pacificcascaderailway.com
Route of the Northern star


Re: Wiring LED's in a DCC converted Atlas C-424

Craig Zeni
 

I pretty much concur; I would look at fixing the light guides to the shell, cutting them to the 'outside' of the guides that hold the light guide to the shell. Glue LED to end of light guide and heat shrink tube the assembly to keep stray light in place.

Craig Zeni
Cary NC

On May 30, 2017, at 12:32 AM, 'Paul O' pomilian@sbcglobal.net [WiringForDCC] wrote:



Cpt. Brigg, my suggestion would be to cut the light tubes somewhere about the middle of what appears to be two mounting points into the weight blocks.
Discard the inner pieces and cement the LEDs to ends of the cut tubes.

Paul O

Sent: Monday, May 29, 2017 7:50 PM
I am currently converting an Atlas Alco C-424 to DCC and have run into a problem with converting the cab and rear light systems into LED's. At my Pacific Cascade Railway web site, you can see the two long plastic light tubes used in the factory setup with one light bulb for both. Since the Soundtraxx MC2 board has separate light controls I want to incorporate two LED's, but where and how to add them. Any suggestions are welcome and will be considered. Thanks.
Capt.Brigg Franklin CEO

www.pacificcascaderailway.com in HO gauge

Vancouver, WA, USA




Re: Wiring LED's in a DCC converted Atlas C-424

Paul O <pomilian@...>
 

Cpt. Brigg, my suggestion would be to cut the light tubes somewhere about the middle of what appears to be two mounting points into the weight blocks.

Discard the inner pieces and cement the LEDs to ends of the cut tubes.

 

Paul O

 

Sent: Monday, May 29, 2017 7:50 PM
I am currently converting an Atlas Alco C-424 to DCC and have run into a problem with converting the cab and rear light systems into LED's. At my Pacific Cascade Railway web site, you can see the two long plastic light tubes used in the factory setup with one light bulb for both. Since the Soundtraxx MC2 board has separate light controls I want to incorporate two LED's, but where and how to add them. Any suggestions are welcome and will be considered. Thanks.

Capt.Brigg Franklin CEO

www.pacificcascaderailway.com in HO gauge

Vancouver, WA, USA


Wiring LED's in a DCC converted Atlas C-424

pacific.cascade.ry@...
 


I am currently converting an Atlas Alco C-424 to DCC and have run into a problem with converting the cab and rear light systems into LED's. At my Pacific Cascade Railway web site, you can see the two long plastic light tubes used in the factory setup with one light bulb for both. Since the Soundtraxx MC2 board has separate light controls I want to incorporate two LED's, but where and how to add them. Any suggestions are welcome and will be considered. Thanks.

Capt.Brigg Franklin CEO

www.pacificcascaderailway.com in HO gauge

Vancouver, WA, USA




Wiring For DCC Website Update

Allan AE2V
 

I have made two updates to my website.


#1:  DCC for Beginners: Do an Incremental Installation


#2:  Update on the track wiring buzzer in this post Radio Shack world and electronic devices that may go across your track like Frog Juicers and auto reversing controllers.


Allan Gartner

Wiring For DCC


Re: Wiring

Gregory Latiak
 

You could supply power to the track with a couple of alligator clips if you wanted to test sections. As for permanent wring, DC and DCC have the same issues of polarity. And if you intend to use a PM42 for power districting, a pair of barrier strips would substitute for the output side. And the distribution of power within the district if you intended to do occupancy detection can similarly be implemented. What I did when building my 7x10 two deck layout. The difference between the two is that DC voltage varies and DCC does not. Instead, signals are sent out to tell addressable devices to take more or less power.

greg latiak


Re: [fm Rhycom - TRUSTED] Re: Wiring

Richard Young <rhycommerce@...>
 

When I built my 4x8 layout, I wired it for DCC but ran it on DC. Worked
fine. I have one reversing section, but being careful with its wiring, it
works in DCC and DC. Once I got my DCC equipment, I just changed the power
supply and it worked on DCC. To emphasize, NEVER cross connect the DC and
DCC.





Wire it right the first time and you should be fine.








From: WiringForDCC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:WiringForDCC@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2017 6:19 PM
To: WiringForDCC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [fm Rhycom - TRUSTED] Re: [WiringForDCC] Wiring








I agree with what Steve said. And once you start running your first DCC loco
you will forget about running on D.C.


DonV
Sent from my phone


On May 28, 2017, at 12:06 PM, cort garnier
cortgarnier@yahoo.com<mailto:cortgarnier@yahoo.com> [WiringForDCC]
<WiringForDCC@yahoogroups.com<mailto:WiringForDCC@yahoogroups.com>> wrote:


I'm working on a small 7 x 4 layout, no reverse loops and a small yard. Is
it possible to wire the layout for DCC but run it DC until my DCC equipment
arrives? I want to run a locomotive to check the track, turnouts and
connections. I have a Digitrax system with a PM42 Just downloaded the
manuals for them.


Cort Garnier (210) 440-8411
cortgarnier@yahoo.com<mailto:cortgarnier@yahoo.com>


Re: Wiring

Vollrath, Don <don.vollrath@...>
 

I agree with what Steve said. And once you start running your first DCC loco you will forget about running on D.C.

DonV
Sent from my phone

On May 28, 2017, at 12:06 PM, cort garnier cortgarnier@yahoo.com<mailto:cortgarnier@yahoo.com> [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@yahoogroups.com<mailto:WiringForDCC@yahoogroups.com>> wrote:



I'm working on a small 7 x 4 layout, no reverse loops and a small yard. Is it possible to wire the layout for DCC but run it DC until my DCC equipment arrives? I want to run a locomotive to check the track, turnouts and connections. I have a Digitrax system with a PM42 Just downloaded the manuals for them.

Cort Garnier (210) 440-8411 cortgarnier@yahoo.com<mailto:cortgarnier@yahoo.com>


Re: Wiring

Steve Haas
 

<<I'm working on a small 7 x 4 layout, no reverse loops and a small yard. Is it possible to wire the layout for DCC but run it DC until my DCC equipment arrives? I want to run a locomotive to check the track, turnouts and connections. I have a Digitrax system with a PM42 Just downloaded the manuals for them.>>

 

Yes it is possible.  Actually, there is little to no difference between a well wired DC layout and a well wired DCC layout. Reversing sections sometimes need to be treated a bit differently, and one needs to use heavier wire for longer runs in DCC.

 

The one thing to be careful is to totally disconnect the DCC system from the track when running DC, and vice versa. I personally would take all the DC only engines of the track when running DCC, and vice versa.

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

Steve Haas

Snoqualmie, WA


Re: Wiring

scott toro
 

Yes you can I believe on some of the systems you have to run it under number 10




On Sunday, May 28, 2017, 10:06 AM, cort garnier cortgarnier@... [WiringForDCC] wrote:

 

I'm working on a small 7 x 4 layout, no reverse loops and a small yard. Is it possible to wire the layout for DCC but run it DC until my DCC equipment arrives? I want to run a locomotive to check the track, turnouts and connections. I have a Digitrax system with a PM42 Just downloaded the manuals for them.
 
Cort Garnier (210) 440-8411 cortgarnier@...


Wiring

cort garnier <cortgarnier@...>
 

I'm working on a small 7 x 4 layout, no reverse loops and a small yard. Is it possible to wire the layout for DCC but run it DC until my DCC equipment arrives? I want to run a locomotive to check the track, turnouts and connections. I have a Digitrax system with a PM42 Just downloaded the manuals for them.
 
Cort Garnier (210) 440-8411 cortgarnier@...


Re: New URL for Wiring For DCC

w2msj
 

Perhaps W4DCC is also a Model Railroader?

Lynn W2MSJ

 


Re: New URL for Wiring For DCC

emrldsky
 

Belongs to

Gary D. Goodman, W4DCC
Shallotte, NC 28459
USA



Mike,



As a ham radio operator myself, I wanted to avoid taking W4DCC. I wanted WFDCC, but someone else has it and they want $1900 to sell it to me.



Allan Gartner, AE2V



For DCC





Hi Allen,

That url could certainly be thought of as a ham radio url as it matches exactly the format and legitimate call sign possibility.

Peace,

Mike G.

From: WiringForDCC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:WiringForDCC@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2017 11:01 AM
To: WiringForDCC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [WiringForDCC] New URL for Wiring For DCC

05/19/17 WiringForDCC has a new URL! New users can now use: <http://www.w4dcc.com/> w4dcc.com This is a nickname and maps to the existing site <http://www.wiringfordcc.com/> WiringForDCC.com NOTHING is being changed about the existing site. Existing users do not need to do anything different.

Allan Gartner

Wiring For DCC

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: New URL for Wiring For DCC

Allan AE2V
 

Mike,

 

As a ham radio operator myself, I wanted to avoid taking W4DCC.  I wanted WFDCC, but someone else has it and they want $1900 to sell it to me.

 

Allan Gartner, AE2V

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2017 12:19 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: RE: [WiringForDCC] New URL for Wiring For DCC

 

 

Hi Allen,

That url could certainly be thought of as a ham radio url as it matches exactly the format and legitimate call sign possibility.

Peace,

Mike G.

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2017 11:01 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] New URL for Wiring For DCC

05/19/17 WiringForDCC has a new URL! New users can now use: <http://www.w4dcc.com/> w4dcc.com This is a nickname and maps to the existing site <http://www.wiringfordcc.com/> WiringForDCC.com NOTHING is being changed about the existing site. Existing users do not need to do anything different.

Allan Gartner

Wiring For DCC

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: New URL for Wiring For DCC

emrldsky
 

Hi Allen,

That url could certainly be thought of as a ham radio url as it matches exactly the format and legitimate call sign possibility.



Peace,

Mike G.





From: WiringForDCC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:WiringForDCC@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2017 11:01 AM
To: WiringForDCC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [WiringForDCC] New URL for Wiring For DCC





05/19/17 WiringForDCC has a new URL! New users can now use: <http://www.w4dcc.com/> w4dcc.com This is a nickname and maps to the existing site <http://www.wiringfordcc.com/> WiringForDCC.com NOTHING is being changed about the existing site. Existing users do not need to do anything different.



Allan Gartner

Wiring For DCC





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


New URL for Wiring For DCC

Allan AE2V
 

05/19/17 WiringForDCC has a new URL! New users can now use: w4dcc.com This is a nickname and maps to the existing site WiringForDCC.com NOTHING is being changed about the existing site. Existing users do not need to do anything different.


Allan Gartner

Wiring For DCC


Digitrax transponding decoders

Digitrax Dad (Lancashire Fusilier)
 


There's been a lot of conversation over the years of programming and utilising Digitrax transponding. For what it is worth I was curious to try and program a new out of the bag TL1 and set up a new address and function control CVs. I have made a short how to video on it here and let me know if any questions or ideas for others too. Hope it helps someone.



Paul Hamilton
Perth, Western Australia 

 



Re: Shinohara Dual Gauge Turnouts with frog juicers

dvollrath@...
 

Doc,

Sorry to hear you have destroyed a couple of those overpriced turnouts. It can't be that difficult. Be sure to read http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm#a19. Look at the sketch and scroll above and below that listing for other hints. Isolate the 3 turnout rails where Allan indicates using insulated rail joiners. [somewhat difficult to see because the gaps are rather small as drawn.] Add a Mono Frog Juicer to each set of points and frog where Allan shows a SPDT switch. Provide a small wire jumper across the swivel points of point rails to ensure power continuity as this is probably the weakest place in the Shinohara design. Make sure that the point rails touch the stock rails when thrown as this is what trips the Frog Juicer. You do not need to cut any rail gaps. Be sure to provide a rail feeder to each section of track so that you do not rely on carrying current through rail joiners.


If all else fails... Post a sketch of your 3-turnout stretch and describe what doesn't work. You should be able to mock this up on the workbench and demonstrate that it all works properly with 3 insulated joiners per turnout and Frog Juicers by flipping the turnouts and demonstrating with a small incandescent light bulb that the frogs and frog rails are always at the proper polarity and no shorts are created according to the selected path of the throw bars.


One other comment - What are you using for a DCC booster? Is there any other electronic circuit breaker in the DCC feeder path that could possibly interfere with the Frog Juicers? The frog Juicer needs to see a momentary short pulse of current as a trigger to flip the polarity.  


 DonV



---In WiringForDCC@..., <doctrov@...> wrote :

I still need help wiring these turnouts, I have received many suggestions, but I'm still having problems.  I have watched several youtube videos, which are helpful but don't go into any depth.  I have three dual gauge turnouts installed end to end.  I have gaped the frogs on all three and isolated the power.  The frog juicer is wired into the narrow gauge main track as shown in a video after the points, not into the frog as shown in several other videos.  Each turnout is installed with plastic rail joiners as directed on Allen Gartner's website.  Each turnout is powered using a bus connected with terminal strips.  Each Frog Jumper is receiving power but does not light up.  I have power on both sides of the turnout but have not installed Caboose Ind. manual throws as yet.  I wonder if this could be a tension problem with the points.  I also wonder if the power should be soldered to the common standard gauge rail, instead of the narrow gauge rail.  I have been screwing around with this for better than four months, and have destroyed at least two other Shinohara dual gauge turnouts, cutting gaps, soldering connections, desoldering and filling gaps.  I have at least twenty-five other dual gauge turnouts to install, and I'm nearing my wits limit on this project.  This hobby is supposed to fun, and has been for the last fifty-five years or so.  I need specific direction on where to power, where to gap, where to install Frog Juicers etc.  With everything I have read, your answers would help numerous people who are as confused as I am.


Thank You; in advance


Ray L. "Doc" Trovillion

Doctrov@...

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