Date   
Re: Wire Connectors

Puckdropper
 

So I was thinking... What is a thermal wire stripper but something that gets really hot and melts a bit of insulation?  So, I took some Nichrome wire and ran it over a hole drilled in a piece of wood and looped it so the wire touches the Nichrome in two places at once.  I hooked that up to a power supply and voila! instant thermal stripper using parts I had laying around.

It worked great, but I only tested down to 28 gauge or so decoder wire.  I didn't have that really fine wire available, as it's down at the club.

Puckdropper


---In wiringfordcc@..., <puckdropper@...> wrote :

Unfortunately, that's not what I'm dealing with.  I've had great success with a solder pot or really big soldering iron (you want to be able to encapsulate the wire with solder) for stripping magnet wire, but Tomar used a really fine traditionally insulated wire on the signals.  It's finer than my 30 ga strippers will strip easily.  I'm not sure if the solder pot will handle that traditionally insulated wire without big nasty smells.

Good point on the spring-loaded terminals.  They are a trap, that's how they work. :-)  I had planned on one wire to a terminal, as that's all I need.

Puckdropper


Re: Dual guage & frog Juicers

dvollrath@...
 

Ray, Be sure to check out Allan's words at  http://www.webring.org/l/rd?ring=modelrailroading;id=13;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ewiringfordcc%2Ecom%2Fswitches_walthers%2Ehtm

The basic turnout should work OK if you simply isolate the 3 exit rails and let the points determine and power route the polarity of the frogs and those rails. Add a Frog Juicer for better continuity of power. As Alan says, it is almost impossible to make it DCC friendly. This is not important if your wheels are in gauge and do not cause shorts on the back sides while passing through.

There is no real reason to isolate the whole turnout either. Like any other turnout, if you run into it from the frog end with the throwbar set the wrong way, there will be a short circuit and/or derailment caused by operator error. Isolating the switch with a light bulb only fixes 1/2 the problem.

DonV

---In WiringForDCC@..., <doctrov@...> wrote :

From your reply, it sounds like I should not be gaping any of the rails.  Also, should I have isolated the power to the turnout?  I am having trouble getting the power to all the rails with gaps.  My Frog juicer doesn't differentiate between the red and green LEDs.  I know I have probably screwed up the turnout I have been modifying.  Thanks for all your help.


Ray L. "Doc" Trovillion

Doctrov@...

dual guage

Ray Trovillion
 

Thanks for the expert advice, I will go correct what I have done, and maybe solve my problems.  I will let you know how I do.


Thanks again!!

Re: Dual guage & frog Juicers

dvollrath@...
 

Sorry. It got re-directed by webring. The right url is http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm#a19

DonV

Re: Wire Connectors

Gregory Latiak
 

I have almost decided that IDC connectors were the right thing for my Tomar signals. Still might end up using RJ45 punch blocks for the wires themselves -- as in my layout the signals are close to being in pairs. Just push the wires in with my tool, snap in the connector to the control board. 

I have a couple of semaphores from them as well where the connections to the LED are basically magnet wire -- but because of the alignment needs of the servos, I was going to make up a mounting block and solder the wires to a local board with the other servo signals.

greg latiak

Re: Wire Connectors

Glenn
 

When I was working with the enameled wire I wrapped it with "Flex-i grit" sand paper to remove the enamel then wiped the end with real nail polish remover (acetone).

Look up K & S Engineering Flex-I-Grit on ebay. sorry I could not find it otherwise quickly. There is also a K & S Engineering Flex-I-File. Either is a super thin flexible fine grit sandpaper.

It is used by model car builder to smooth fillers.

Glenn


HO Scale Trucks Suitable for Current Block Detection

Paul Libke
 

This is my first attempt to use this Forum (other than just reading other's comments), so if I make any mistakes in form, please let me know. 


I am just getting back into the railroading hobby after many years of absence.  I have many, many (400-500) freight and passenger cars, some from as long as 60 years ago, through most of the 60s, 70s, 80s era, to a few newer ones, but none brand new (within the last 5-10 years.)  Some of the cars need new trucks anyway because the originals are missing, or other problems.

 

I am building a 10 x 20 railroad which will use DCC by NCE control, and code 83, nickel-silver rail.

 

I want to install a sophisticated signaling system, and plan to use block detectors (probably from JLC Enterprises) that sense current draw through a coil, and possibly the Chubb node modules as well (unless I find something easier, or cheaper, or using LCC.)

 

For block detection, I would like to have every car draw current through at least one axel of each truck.

 

Here’s my dilemma and question:  I need to put new trucks on every car, and I would like to use the least number of different trucks as possible.  I want trucks that offer reliable current conduction, and look reasonably good (I'm not a rivet counter), and have the least tendency to accumulate dirt.  I am overwhelmed by the number of trucks, wheel sets, etc., available for refitting cars.  And many of those available don’t really specify the traits I need.

 

I am looking for advice and recommendations on which trucks would be the most appropriate.

 

Re: Wire Connectors

rmvelten@...
 

Has anyone else ever used the 2, 3 and 4 wire IDC Telephone Data Splice Connectors?  You don't have to strip the wires to use these - merely insert the wires until they stop, then used ordinary pliers to squeeze the button down.  The inside of the connector is filled with silicone.  They are designed for AWG 22 - 26 wire.  I got my first one when the ATT guy left a box after a service call.  They are not removable - you just cut them off and throw away, but you lose about 1/2" of wire trapped in the connector.

I found them on ebay for about $10 for a package of 100 connectors.  Here is an example - I am not associated with this seller in any way:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Wire-IDC-Telephone-Data-Splice-Connector-100-Pack-/351671261113?hash=item51e13d97b9:g:JzkAAOxyRHdRy6Dk

Rich Velten in Missouri

Re: Wire Connectors

Blair & Rasa
 

Rich

I've used these before, for indoors and outdoors connections:

http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G17981B

Goldmine always has an entertaining, eclectic variety of surplus stuff.  I can always make up a worthwhile order.

Blair

 


On 17/02/20 23:50, rmvelten@... [WiringForDCC] wrote:
Has anyone else ever used the 2, 3 and 4 wire IDC Telephone Data Splice Connectors?  You don't have to strip the wires to use these - merely insert the wires until they stop, then used ordinary pliers to squeeze the button down.  The inside of the connector is filled with silicone.  They are designed for AWG 22 - 26 wire.  I got my first one when the ATT guy left a box after a service call.  They are not removable - you just cut them off and throw away, but you lose about 1/2" of wire trapped in the connector.

I found them on ebay for about $10 for a package of 100 connectors.  Here is an example - I am not associated with this seller in any way:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Wire-IDC-Telephone-Data-Splice-Connector-100-Pack-/351671261113?hash=item51e13d97b9:g:JzkAAOxyRHdRy6Dk

Rich Velten in Missouri

Re: Wire Connectors

Puckdropper
 

I've used them and they do work well.  I used them on my Aunt's garage door, which is still operating just fine.

If it wasn't for the removable requirement, I'd be looking at using them.  We're going to be pulling a couple of those signals for scenery work.  (I've learned you can "be really careful" for about 2 minutes, then you inevitably forget about the thing and hit it or drip paint or something.  Removing it is the easiest way to prevent damage.)

Puckdropper


---In wiringfordcc@..., <rmvelten@...> wrote :

Has anyone else ever used the 2, 3 and 4 wire IDC Telephone Data Splice Connectors?  You don't have to strip the wires to use these - merely insert the wires until they stop, then used ordinary pliers to squeeze the button down.  The inside of the connector is filled with silicone.  They are designed for AWG 22 - 26 wire.  I got my first one when the ATT guy left a box after a service call.  They are not removable - you just cut them off and throw away, but you lose about 1/2" of wire trapped in the connector.

I found them on ebay for about $10 for a package of 100 connectors.  Here is an example - I am not associated with this seller in any way:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Wire-IDC-Telephone-Data-Splice-Connector-100-Pack-/351671261113?hash=item51e13d97b9:g:JzkAAOxyRHdRy6Dk

Rich Velten in Missouri

Re: HO Scale Trucks Suitable for Current Block Detection

Paul O
 

Paul, you’re looking at a pretty expensive proposition (400-500 cars).

You said: “Here’s my dilemma:  I need to put new trucks on every car, and I would like to use the least number of different trucks as possible.”

Do you really mean ‘trucks’ or do you mean ‘axles’?

 

I’m not aware of any trucks that come with resistor wheels.

If you need to replace broken/missing trucks, you’ll still have to add a conductive (resistor) axle to any new trucks.

 

Two least expensive options, if you can use the existing trucks:

Buy axles that already have the resistor installed,

or,

modify regular metal wheel sets by adding the resistors yourself; you can find how-to videos on-line.

 

Paul O

Re: HO Scale Trucks Suitable for Current Block Detection

Paul Libke
 

Thank you, Paul O. 

 

I see what you mean about being expensive.  Since probably 95% of the truck frames are in good shape, I will look at just replacing the wheel/axel sets, and will look for ones that already have the resistor installed.

Thanks again.

BTW, is this the right way to reply: to the whole group, rather than “to the sender?”

 

Best regards,

 

Paul

Re: Wire Connectors

john
 

Hello,
   I worked for the "Phone Company" for many years and for AT&T for many more. The connectors you are talking of are excellent but they have some problems. There are a number of different connectors and an unusual one allows one to tap and connect to a wire without cutting it. The connectors are available for a number of wire gages. They each accept a range of gages. They connect signal wires very well and current carrying capability is compatible with the wire size of the connector.
   At 10 cents a connector they are reasonably priced but sometimes they are available for less, look around.
   Now the problems. Avoid the filled connectors. The grease will leak, sometimes slowly, sometimes quickly. The grease will attract and collect dirt and dust. Much more dust than you think is around. Another problem is their bulkiness. While they seem tiny they accumulate bulk quickly. Connecting different gage wire will probably be best accomplished by stripping and soldering but the connectors will help with some of it.
   Hope I helped.
john
  


On Tuesday, February 21, 2017 12:40 PM, "puckdropper@... [WiringForDCC]" wrote:




I've used them and they do work well.  I used them on my Aunt's garage door, which is still operating just fine.

If it wasn't for the removable requirement, I'd be looking at using them.  We're going to be pulling a couple of those signals for scenery work.  (I've learned you can "be really careful" for about 2 minutes, then you inevitably forget about the thing and hit it or drip paint or something.  Removing it is the easiest way to prevent damage.)

Puckdropper


---In wiringfordcc@..., wrote :

Has anyone else ever used the 2, 3 and 4 wire IDC Telephone Data Splice Connectors?  You don't have to strip the wires to use these - merely insert the wires until they stop, then used ordinary pliers to squeeze the button down.  The inside of the connector is filled with silicone.  They are designed for AWG 22 - 26 wire.  I got my first one when the ATT guy left a box after a service call.  They are not removable - you just cut them off and throw away, but you lose about 1/2" of wire trapped in the connector.

I found them on ebay for about $10 for a package of 100 connectors.  Here is an example - I am not associated with this seller in any way:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Wire-IDC-Telephone-Data-Splice-Connector-100-Pack-/351671261113?hash=item51e13d97b9:g:JzkAAOxyRHdRy6Dk

Rich Velten in Missouri




Re: Wire Connectors

Doug Harris <digbee@...>
 

On 22/02/2017 06:03, Blair & Rasa smithbr@... [WiringForDCC] wrote:
Rich
I've used these before, for indoors and outdoors connections:
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G17981B
Goldmine always has an entertaining, eclectic variety of surplus stuff.
I can always make up a worthwhile order.
Blair

Eclectic, indeed! I've never seen anything like it!


--
Cheers.


Doug Harris
Cambridge, New Zealand

Re: HO Scale Trucks Suitable for Current Block Detection

Doug Harris <digbee@...>
 

On 22/02/2017 08:52, 'Paul Libke' PaulLibke@... [WiringForDCC]
wrote:
*/Thank you, Paul O. /*
*/I see what you mean about being expensive. Since probably 95% of the
truck frames are in good shape, I will look at just replacing the
wheel/axel sets, and will look for ones that already have the resistor
installed./*
BTW, is this the right way to reply: to the whole group, rather than “to
the sender?”/*

Yep. I like to see this advice, too, and I'm sure many othere so also.


Model Railroading IS Fun. (And vee haf vays of making you haff Fun..)


BTW (for by-the-way).. please check your email settings to make sure you
are sending in Plain Text only - I got a lot of unusual symbols and
extra stuff from your reply..


Many Thanks again..


--
Cheers.


Doug Harris
Cambridge, New Zealand

Re: HO Scale Trucks Suitable for Current Block Detection

wirefordcc
 

You can buy wheels from Signaling Solution with resistors on them.  http://www.wsaeng.com/Signaling_Solution  I don’t know what they charge for them.

 

You can also add resistors to metal wheels with a plastic axle pretty easily by gluing a surface mount resistor to the axle and making the connection with conductive paint.  See my website for more info on block detection and wheel sets.  http://www.wiringfordcc.com/blockdet.htm

 

Allan Gartner

Wiring For DCC

Re: HO Scale Trucks Suitable for Current Block Detection

Paul Libke
 

Thank you, Allen.  I will have a look at Signaling Solution and your website.

 

Re: HO Scale Trucks Suitable for Current Block Detection

Puckdropper
 

The link for Signaling Solution didn't work.

Another supplier of resistor equipped wheels is Litchfield Station, http://www.litchfieldstation.net/  They're Intermountain wheels with resistors added, I think they're made by the guys at Litchfield Station.

As for metal wheels, it's hard to beat Intermountain Wheels.  Just buy the big bags and enjoy!  The Litchfield Station ones will match perfectly.

Puckdropper


---In wiringfordcc@..., <bigboy@...> wrote :

You can buy wheels from Signaling Solution with resistors on them.  http://www.wsaeng.com/Signaling_Solution  I don’t know what they charge for them.

 

You can also add resistors to metal wheels with a plastic axle pretty easily by gluing a surface mount resistor to the axle and making the connection with conductive paint.  See my website for more info on block detection and wheel sets.  http://www.wiringfordcc.com/blockdet.htm

 

Allan Gartner

Wiring For DCC

Re: HO Scale Trucks Suitable for Current Block Detection

Paul O
 

Yes, replying to the group is fine. That way anyone following a thread can see the results.

 

Paul O

 

==========================================================

Thank you, Paul O. 

 I see what you mean about being expensive.  Since probably 95% of the truck frames are in good shape, I will look at just replacing the wheel/axel sets, and will look for ones that already have the resistor installed.

Thanks again.

BTW, is this the right way to reply: to the whole group, rather than “to the sender?”

 Best regards,

 Paul

Re: Wire Connectors

Blair & Rasa
 

Doug

Biggest downside is, just about everything comes and goes. Those connectors are one of the few items that they've always had, for the last six years anyway. Couple of times, I've ordered one or two of something that intrigued me, only to decide I wanted more - but they no longer had them, so I had to find them full-retail instead.

Another entertaining one is bgmicro.com, though he doesn't seem to be quite so...adventurous. Great supplies for electronics types, though.

Blair

On 17/02/21 17:05, Doug Harris digbee@... [WiringForDCC] wrote:
On 22/02/2017 06:03, Blair & Rasa smithbr@... [WiringForDCC] wrote:
Rich
I've used these before, for indoors and outdoors connections:
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G17981B
Goldmine always has an entertaining, eclectic variety of surplus stuff.
I can always make up a worthwhile order.
Blair
Eclectic, indeed! I've never seen anything like it!