Date   
Re: new member w/questions

David Heine <davesn3@...>
 

Hi Harry,

 

You can cut a groove in the plywood with a router or a dado blade in a table saw.  Actually, the kerf from a single blade may be enough for the wires.

 

You can drill a hole in your bracket, which I assume are made of steel.  You shouldn’t have any problem with running wires through them, but make sure you run both bus wires through the same hole.  Otherwise you will make a little induction heater.  I remember seeing one Sn3 layout with welded steel framework and he didn’t seem to have any problems.  I have also seen references to people using metal strut like Unistrut to build layout framework.  I use aluminum shapes for framing on my lift-ups.   Buildings with steel studs have wires running through them, which seems to be most commercial buildings, at least around here.

 

Will there be a fascia on the front hiding the brackets, lighting, etc.?  

 

Dave Heine

Easton, PA

 

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of harfrompa2@...
Sent: Saturday, February 15, 2014 9:49 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] new member w/questions

 



Hi Everybody,

 

I have been a model railroader for a long time now and am currently building a new layout and I want to use DCC. I have a lot of questions. What I do know about DCC I have read in magazine articles or on-line groups. The biggest question I have right now is -- The layout I am building now is multi-level (three in all) and consist of 3/4" plywood supported by metal shelf brackets. Obviously I need to keep the wiring, etc from one deck so you dont see it on the lower level. I understand I shouldnt have a bus wire longer then 30'. I could run the bus wire under the plywood, and at each bracket drop it down, under and across. This would use up 5-6" of wire for each bracket. A 15' long section of the bench work has 11 brackets so I have used up over 5' of bus run. The best idea I have is to cut a groove in the plywood to allow the wire to run over the bracket and not lose any bus lenght. I did think about drilling hole, grommets, etc-- cutting a groove is much easier!. I would run the wire thru a short piece of rubber hose to prevent any contact between the bracket and the wire as well as wire supports in between each bracket. My question is this-- will running the bus wire thru metal brackets cause a problem of any kind? The brackets on the lower level extend out to the end of the plywood, the upper two level's brackets will be shorter to allow the lighing to be attached to the underside of the plywood. Thanks for any info and Im sure I have plenty of other questions.

 

Harry




Re: Wiring Setup

Paul O
 

Although not necessary for a lone operator, I’d divide the layout into 2-3 or 4 electrical sections with insulated rail joiners.

Run a ‘sub-bus’ around these sections and connect each to the main bus; this would aid in troubleshooting and/or expansion.

 

If you’re running about a 3 amp system you can get away without circuit breakers; above 3-5 amps, electrical sections with breakers would be advisable because the heat generated at a short could be sufficient to cause damage.

 

Some systems, like the NCE Power Cab, are throttle (cab) and command station all-in-one.

Others have a separate command station that connects to the track and have a cable to connect the throttle(cab) to the command station. There are also wireless throttle-to-command station systems.

 

Paul O

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of jwjj@...
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2014 8:21 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: RE: [WiringForDCC] Re: Wiring Setup

 

 

Thanks Paul for modifing the layout so all can see. The detector I was referring to is a circuit breaker. I was in the NEC group and they mentioned it there so I was trying to figure out what they ment. So I don't think I have anymore questions about how it works. I am the lone operator for now but I may buy another cab in the future. As far as power district I don't know. It seems that if it was broken up it would it would be easier to track down shorts since that seems to be the main issue but I don't know. What is best? Is the command station the same as what I am calling the cab? The main controlling unit that runs the locamotives. If so, that is going to be on the bottom (the side where the yards are located).

Re: new member w/questions

Flash Gordon
 

Hello Harry,

Welcome to the group.

This link will answer all your questions about DCC.

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track.htm

Basically you will want to twist all the DCC main buss and put terminators at the end of the long ones. See the article above for more info.

That is how I am handling it on my new layout and it will have three levels. Some will say over-kill but I think it is worth the extra effort to eliminate variables.

Keep us posted on your progress or questions.

Ed S

At 09:49 AM 2/15/2014, you wrote:


Hi Everybody,

I have been a model railroader for a long time now and am currently building a new layout and I want to use DCC. I have a lot of questions. What I do know about DCC I have read in magazine articles or on-line groups. The biggest question I have right now is -- The layout I am building now is multi-level (three in all) and consist of 3/4" plywood supported by metal shelf brackets. Obviously I need to keep the wiring, etc from one deck so you dont see it on the lower level. I understand I shouldnt have a bus wire longer then 30'. I could run the bus wire under the plywood, and at each bracket drop it down, under and across. This would use up 5-6" of wire for each bracket. A 15' long section of the bench work has 11 brackets so I have used up over 5' of bus run. The best idea I have is to cut a groove in the plywood to allow the wire to run over the bracket and not lose any bus lenght. I did think about drilling hole, grommets, etc-- cutting a groove is much easier!. I would run the wire thru a short piece of rubber hose to prevent any contact between the bracket and the wire as well as wire supports in between each bracket. My question is this-- will running the bus wire thru metal brackets cause a problem of any kind? The brackets on the lower level extend out to the end of the plywood, the upper two level's brackets will be shorter to allow the lighing to be attached to the underside of the plywood. Thanks for any info and Im sure I have plenty of other questions.

Harry

Re: Emergency stop button -- IMHO

Flash Gordon
 


Hi Greg,

i want to turn everything on the layout off with one switch, because of all you mentioned, including dinner.

Let’s go back a few weeks.

Someone posted that a friend had a fire in his basement. The firemen said it was caused by an electrical short in a train layout, the wire along the bottom of the table had heated up (main buss maybe) and started the fire.

The poster wanted to know if this was possible.... after a lot of discussion....  the owner of the layout admitted he had forgot to turn the layout off.

Most likely the main bus was not heavy enough wire to carry enough current to trip the booster. A minor short occurred, probably a derailment.  The owner went to dinner, did not turn off the layout and ……..  smoked the layout.

Since I am older and do dumb things, I thought it was best for me to be able to turn everything off in an emergency or when I leave the room.

So I came up with this Emergency Shut Off Button.  It will work and do what I want it to do.... turn everything off. For quite awhile many have joined in the middle of the conversation and added many great ideas and I thank them all.

Can we STOP now pleaseeeeeeeeee?

Carl, we had those emergency stop button in the school shops where I taught. Probably where I got the bright idea.

Thanks

Ed S



At 11:40 AM 2/15/2014, you wrote:
 

Hi Gang:

In tool and die trade school they had Master Emergency Buttons several places around the shop. Any one could shut all the shop machines down, only the instructors could turn it back on with a key.

With Digitrax you can unplug the throttle and walk to the next plug in and the locomotive will keep going.

Missing dinner is a major crisis. What is it you wish to avoid? A runaway locomotive, a track short burning up a passenger car, fire in the boosters?

Carl.

Re: new member w/questions

Skip Barber
 

Henry,
Welcome aboard. That is probably what I would do.  Take a router with a 1/4 or 3/8" bit and route about 1/4 deep. I would run two grooves the entire length of the baseboard probably 1 1/2 to 2" apart. Then you would not have to be precise when you come to a bracket.  I would not expect any chaffing problems as long as the groove is deep enough. I don't know your track plan, but putting it in the center should shorten the length of the feeders. You might also think about any other wiring you might want in the future (building lights, signaling, detection, etc). 

Skip Barber


On Feb 15, 2014, at 9:49, <harfrompa2@...> wrote:

Hi Everybody,

I have been a model railroader for a long time now and am currently building a new layout and I want to use DCC. I have a lot of questions. What I do know about DCC I have read in magazine articles or on-line groups. The biggest question I have right now is -- The layout I am building now is multi-level (three in all) and consist of 3/4" plywood supported by metal shelf brackets. Obviously I need to keep the wiring, etc from one deck so you dont see it on the lower level. I understand I shouldnt have a bus wire longer then 30'. I could run the bus wire under the plywood, and at each bracket drop it down, under and across. This would use up 5-6" of wire for each bracket. A 15' long section of the bench work has 11 brackets so I have used up over 5' of bus run. The best idea I have is to cut a groove in the plywood to allow the wire to run over the bracket and not lose any bus lenght. I did think about drilling hole, grommets, etc-- cutting a groove is much easier!. I would run the wire thru a short piece of rubber hose to prevent any contact between the bracket and the wire as well as wire supports in between each bracket. My question is this-- will running the bus wire thru metal brackets cause a problem of any kind? The brackets on the lower level extend out to the end of the plywood, the upper two level's brackets will be shorter to allow the lighing to be attached to the underside of the plywood. Thanks for any info and Im sure I have plenty of other questions.

Harry

Re: Emergency stop button -- IMHO

Carl
 

Hi Gang:

In tool and die trade school they had Master Emergency Buttons several places around the shop. Any one could shut all the shop machines down, only the instructors could turn it back on with a key.

With Digitrax you can unplug the throttle and walk to the next plug in and the locomotive will keep going.

Missing dinner is a major crisis. What is it you wish to avoid? A runaway locomotive, a track short burning up a passenger car, fire in the boosters?

Carl.

On 2/15/2014 11:19 AM, Ed S wrote:
 

Mike,

That will not turn off all the accessories, lighting, transformers... etc.

The original idea is to shut everything down in an emergency.... like
"dinner is ready"

Ed S

At 07:05 PM 2/13/2014, you wrote:
>
>
>I have a question wouldn't it be easier to just pull the plug from
>the throttle doing that will stop everything.
>Mike Looney
>
>


Re: Emergency stop button -- IMHO

john
 

Mike,
   No, no, no, Not only will you engines keep running but the may start running on their own later on when they get power. One of those popular remote light switches could work, the conductor can carry it and operate it in an emergency.

From: "excalibur5776@..."
To: WiringForDCC@...
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2014 7:05 PM
Subject: Re: RE: [WiringForDCC] Emergency stop button -- IMHO



I have a question wouldn't it be easier to just pull the plug from the throttle doing that will stop everything.
Mike Looney
 
 
On 02/13/14, Glenn wrote:
 
 
Not to nit-pick but: Switch .75, box, .39,cover .25
 
I was not concerned about cost as much asavailability. These items can be found at any home center or hardware store.
 
The “Real” thing is hard tofind locally.
 
I did look at the eBay vendor cited otheritems and found this 5-pack
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111146956435?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
 
If I bought today I wouldn’t receivethem until between March 4th and 20th.
 
Glenn
 
From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of Ed S
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 201409:41
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: Re: [WiringForDCC]Emergency stop button -- IMHO
 



Glen,

The Emergency stop switch I bought is probably about as expensive as the partsyou need.

It is already assembled, painted and labeled. It is obvious to what it is.Ready for surface mount ( there are punch-outs in the bottom) and it looks veryprofessional. All I have to do is stick a wire in it.

You could use several in series.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130970913952?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Ed S


 

At 05:48 AM 2/12/2014, you wrote:

 

 

Materials:

           Economy light switches. Look for them in bulk boxes at the home centers. Theyare about a third the cost of the boxed variety.

           Junction boxes. I typically use the blue plastic 1x2.5x3.5 box. I drilltwo small holes about 3/8 in from the front and mount them with drywallscrews. The will take the standard switch or outlet.

           Cover plate. Get the typical face plate, rough sand it, definitely prime with asolvent based prime, and paint it what ever color you desire.

           Wire. Two-wire household wire is fine since it is a closed loop.

 

Glenn





Re: Emergency stop button -- IMHO

Flash Gordon
 

Mike,

That will not turn off all the accessories, lighting, transformers... etc.

The original idea is to shut everything down in an emergency.... like "dinner is ready"

Ed S

At 07:05 PM 2/13/2014, you wrote:


I have a question wouldn't it be easier to just pull the plug from the throttle doing that will stop everything.
Mike Looney

new member w/questions

harfrompa2@...
 

Hi Everybody,

I have been a model railroader for a long time now and am currently building a new layout and I want to use DCC. I have a lot of questions. What I do know about DCC I have read in magazine articles or on-line groups. The biggest question I have right now is -- The layout I am building now is multi-level (three in all) and consist of 3/4" plywood supported by metal shelf brackets. Obviously I need to keep the wiring, etc from one deck so you dont see it on the lower level. I understand I shouldnt have a bus wire longer then 30'. I could run the bus wire under the plywood, and at each bracket drop it down, under and across. This would use up 5-6" of wire for each bracket. A 15' long section of the bench work has 11 brackets so I have used up over 5' of bus run. The best idea I have is to cut a groove in the plywood to allow the wire to run over the bracket and not lose any bus lenght. I did think about drilling hole, grommets, etc-- cutting a groove is much easier!. I would run the wire thru a short piece of rubber hose to prevent any contact between the bracket and the wire as well as wire supports in between each bracket. My question is this-- will running the bus wire thru metal brackets cause a problem of any kind? The brackets on the lower level extend out to the end of the plywood, the upper two level's brackets will be shorter to allow the lighing to be attached to the underside of the plywood. Thanks for any info and Im sure I have plenty of other questions.

Harry

Re: Emergency stop button -- Annuder Variant

Max Maginness
 

No idea on the Atlas relay, and no numbers for it on the Atlas site so far as I could find. However two bits of bent brass (?) pushed against each suggest that 1 amp would be ambitious.

For a slightly different purpose (to sequence the power up from a master-slave booster arrangement) I am using a relay rated for 5 amps at 12 volts  (also has a 12 DC coil)  I have some others rated a 8 amps/30 volts. (Omron G5LE-14-AP3) These were from All Electronics some time ago and of course their stock varies but there are similar ones in the listings. Of course for these you need a separate 12 volt supply to keep them energized in normal use and that supply needs to be inherently very reliable …

 

Max

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of Carl Blum
Sent: Friday, February 14, 2014 7:09 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: RE: [WiringForDCC] Emergency stop button -- Annuder Variant

 

 

Hi Max:

I didn't notice the 1 Amp rating. What is the Atlas #200 relay rated for? Anyway the smaller relay can trigger a larger relay or several relays.

Carl.

Sent from my NOOK

Max Maginness <m.maginness@...> wrote:

 

Nice relay, but the ! amp contact rating is a bit on the low side to interrupt a 5 or 8 amp DCC supply (and yes I know the rating for AC is usually higher than for DC, but in this case the “AC” is switching much faster than for the usual 50/60Hz rating)  Having the contacts weld in an emergency will not help.

 

Max

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of Carl
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2014 9:41 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: Re: [WiringForDCC] Emergency stop button -- Annuder Variant

 

 

Hello Glenn:

I've used the Atlas Snap Relay and found it overpriced for its "toy" construction. May I suggest commercial relays like this one:

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/RLY-565/5VDC-DPDT-LATCHING-RELAY-SURFACE-MOUNT/1.html

Same function but a sealed case with rated contacts, and only $1.

I buy a lot from All Electronics and it is a hoot to visit their store!

Carl.

On 2/13/2014 8:39 AM, Glenn wrote:

 

On a different take get an Atlas Snap relay (#200) and put it between the system and the track. Place push buttons in appropriate places around the layout.

 


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1432 / Virus Database: 3697/6589 - Release Date: 02/13/14


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1432 / Virus Database: 3705/6591 - Release Date: 02/13/14

Re: Emergency stop button -- Annuder Variant

George Galyon
 

And another thing about those Atlas "snap" relays.  Unless they've changed the design sometime in the last 30+ years they utilize a copper-on-copper (probably phos bronze) unplated slide mechanism which in my experience tended to fail open at a high rate of failure in less than 100 "snaps".  For a once in a blue moon operation...prob. acceptable.  But that All Electronics unit is a better price and is probably more reliable. 

George T.

Re: Emergency stop button -- Annuder Variant

Carl
 

Hi Max:

I didn't notice the 1 Amp rating. What is the Atlas #200 relay rated for? Anyway the smaller relay can trigger a larger relay or several relays.

Carl.

Sent from my NOOK

Max Maginness <m.maginness@...> wrote:

 

Nice relay, but the ! amp contact rating is a bit on the low side to interrupt a 5 or 8 amp DCC supply (and yes I know the rating for AC is usually higher than for DC, but in this case the “AC” is switching much faster than for the usual 50/60Hz rating)  Having the contacts weld in an emergency will not help.

 

Max

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of Carl
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2014 9:41 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: Re: [WiringForDCC] Emergency stop button -- Annuder Variant

 

 

Hello Glenn:

I've used the Atlas Snap Relay and found it overpriced for its "toy" construction. May I suggest commercial relays like this one:

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/RLY-565/5VDC-DPDT-LATCHING-RELAY-SURFACE-MOUNT/1.html

Same function but a sealed case with rated contacts, and only $1.

I buy a lot from All Electronics and it is a hoot to visit their store!

Carl.

On 2/13/2014 8:39 AM, Glenn wrote:

 

On a different take get an Atlas Snap relay (#200) and put it between the system and the track. Place push buttons in appropriate places around the layout.

 


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1432 / Virus Database: 3697/6589 - Release Date: 02/13/14

Re: Emergency stop button -- IMHO

Glenn
 

I too have the ‘retired’ disease. It’s almost a bad as the pre-retirement disorder J

 

I spent 20-years in the army roaming about the world. Not having the chance for a permanent layout, I accumulated scads of HO building kits and HO scenic details. Then upon retirement I changed scales.

 

After a brief stint in On30, I now model On20 (HOn3 track). I have managed to gather 8 suitable HOn3 locomotive chassis and enough trucks for 25 cars. All I have is a 2’ x 4’ test track with 5 switches and DCC.

 

My problem is time. I am now 67, besides still maintaining our estate, I have been given the household duties as well, cleaning, washing, cooking…. I figure I have 6-8-years left on my sentence, she retires then.

 

Glenn

 


On Behalf Of Ed S

Glenn,

You  are correct, it took a month to get my  ESB but when you are retired you tend to plan ahead, and you really don't even know what day of the week it is. But it arrived all ready to go, no assembly or painting required.

Ed S


Re: Emergency stop button -- Annuder Variant

Max Maginness
 

Nice relay, but the ! amp contact rating is a bit on the low side to interrupt a 5 or 8 amp DCC supply (and yes I know the rating for AC is usually higher than for DC, but in this case the “AC” is switching much faster than for the usual 50/60Hz rating)  Having the contacts weld in an emergency will not help.

 

Max

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of Carl
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2014 9:41 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: Re: [WiringForDCC] Emergency stop button -- Annuder Variant

 

 

Hello Glenn:

I've used the Atlas Snap Relay and found it overpriced for its "toy" construction. May I suggest commercial relays like this one:

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/RLY-565/5VDC-DPDT-LATCHING-RELAY-SURFACE-MOUNT/1.html

Same function but a sealed case with rated contacts, and only $1.

I buy a lot from All Electronics and it is a hoot to visit their store!

Carl.

On 2/13/2014 8:39 AM, Glenn wrote:

 

On a different take get an Atlas Snap relay (#200) and put it between the system and the track. Place push buttons in appropriate places around the layout.

 


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1432 / Virus Database: 3697/6589 - Release Date: 02/13/14

Re: Emergency stop button -- Annuder Variant

george hohon3
 

This thread has gotten so far off it's original track I think it's approaching some sort of internet record for going into a death spiral.  At the rate of current responses, I think my delete key is just about ready to cry "Uncle" . . .

George


To: WiringForDCC@...
From: john.p.dunn@...
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2014 18:36:03 -0800
Subject: Re: [WiringForDCC] Emergency stop button -- Annuder Variant

 

Guys, I have tried and I can not attach a PDF page to this page but look up Carlton-Bates Company , page 160 of their 2013 catalog for Solid State Relays.
   You can find these relays in any surplus shop for cheap. They handle a lot or a little amperage. You could put them behind a receptacle in a deep surface mounted box with a cord on it and a low voltage input to activate the relay. You can activate or deactivate your layout with low voltage. My club uses a Key and an indicator. An RCA jack makes a simple key OR a 2 way, 3 way, 4 way, etc. switch could connect or disconnect a layout from a number of positions.

Hope I helped
john

From: Ed S
To: WiringForDCC@...
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2014 3:33 PM
Subject: RE: [WiringForDCC] Emergency stop button -- Annuder Variant

Don,

Yes it is great how we digress, but fun to do on a snowy day.

Let me respond:

Motion detector....  yessssss  if no motion the whole thing goes to
sleep... like a dead mans switch...  being retired I do nod off now
and then..  great to wake up and everything is where you left it. No
corn field meets.

Seriously, I just want to turn off all  the power quickly  if
something bad happens. I can't run to the other end of the layout anymore.

Building code:  In Ohio as long as any electrical item is plugged
into a wall outlet, anything you do beyond that is your problem. If
you hard wire into a circuit then everything has to be in conduit and boxes.

I plan to plug into a dedicated circuit that has a 10amp circuit
breaker in the service panel with one "custom made heavy extension
cord" to my kill switch  .... then branch out with power strips for
accessories.

My bedroom is above the basement layout and I do not want to wake up
with smoke in my room.

If I am pulling more then 10 amps with this layout, then something
will have to go, on a fixed income I can't afford the electricity.

Ed S





At 12:13 PM 2/13/2014, you wrote:
>
>
>Interesting how the discussion in a forum sways back and forth.
>What Ed seemed to want was a mushroom head e-stop button to
>disconnect all power to the layout, maybe one with multiple
>stations. Not sure why he wanted it but it is his RR. Seemed to
>already have found one on e-bay.
> From there it diverged into using D-I-Y relays (some at 120V no
> less) or the commercially available X-10 controls or even the 'clapper'.
>Then a note or two about killing only the DCC track power.
>Then several methods of built-in e-stop features of various brand
>'throttles' to stop a locomotive and/or possibly all DCC track voltage.
>Then to using a single switch to control not only the layout, but
>also room lighting.
>Soon we will be discussing using cannibalized IR motion detectors
>from an outdoor light fixture to automatically kill whole room power
>when leaving for grandma's house. (Or was that on a different forum?)
>Someone opens the door and the ideas just pour in! Enjoy.
>
>Please don't fiddle with 120Vac power wiring (220V for you guys down
>under) unless you really know what you are doing, and your local
>inspector and insurance company agrees.
>
>DonV




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Re: Emergency stop button -- Annuder Variant

john
 

Guys, I have tried and I can not attach a PDF page to this page but look up Carlton-Bates Company , page 160 of their 2013 catalog for Solid State Relays.
   You can find these relays in any surplus shop for cheap. They handle a lot or a little amperage. You could put them behind a receptacle in a deep surface mounted box with a cord on it and a low voltage input to activate the relay. You can activate or deactivate your layout with low voltage. My club uses a Key and an indicator. An RCA jack makes a simple key OR a 2 way, 3 way, 4 way, etc. switch could connect or disconnect a layout from a number of positions.

Hope I helped
john

From: Ed S
To: WiringForDCC@...
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2014 3:33 PM
Subject: RE: [WiringForDCC] Emergency stop button -- Annuder Variant

Don,

Yes it is great how we digress, but fun to do on a snowy day.

Let me respond:

Motion detector....  yessssss  if no motion the whole thing goes to
sleep... like a dead mans switch...  being retired I do nod off now
and then..  great to wake up and everything is where you left it. No
corn field meets.

Seriously, I just want to turn off all  the power quickly  if
something bad happens. I can't run to the other end of the layout anymore.

Building code:  In Ohio as long as any electrical item is plugged
into a wall outlet, anything you do beyond that is your problem. If
you hard wire into a circuit then everything has to be in conduit and boxes.

I plan to plug into a dedicated circuit that has a 10amp circuit
breaker in the service panel with one "custom made heavy extension
cord" to my kill switch  .... then branch out with power strips for
accessories.

My bedroom is above the basement layout and I do not want to wake up
with smoke in my room.

If I am pulling more then 10 amps with this layout, then something
will have to go, on a fixed income I can't afford the electricity.

Ed S





At 12:13 PM 2/13/2014, you wrote:
>
>
>Interesting how the discussion in a forum sways back and forth.
>What Ed seemed to want was a mushroom head e-stop button to
>disconnect all power to the layout, maybe one with multiple
>stations. Not sure why he wanted it but it is his RR. Seemed to
>already have found one on e-bay.
> From there it diverged into using D-I-Y relays (some at 120V no
> less) or the commercially available X-10 controls or even the 'clapper'.
>Then a note or two about killing only the DCC track power.
>Then several methods of built-in e-stop features of various brand
>'throttles' to stop a locomotive and/or possibly all DCC track voltage.
>Then to using a single switch to control not only the layout, but
>also room lighting.
>Soon we will be discussing using cannibalized IR motion detectors
>from an outdoor light fixture to automatically kill whole room power
>when leaving for grandma's house. (Or was that on a different forum?)
>Someone opens the door and the ideas just pour in! Enjoy.
>
>Please don't fiddle with 120Vac power wiring (220V for you guys down
>under) unless you really know what you are doing, and your local
>inspector and insurance company agrees.
>
>DonV




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Re: Emergency stop button -- IMHO

Michael Looney
 

I have a question wouldn't it be easier to just pull the plug from the throttle doing that will stop everything.
Mike Looney
 
 

On 02/13/14, Glenn wrote:
 
 

Not to nit-pick but: Switch .75, box, .39,cover .25

 

I was not concerned about cost as much asavailability. These items can be found at any home center or hardware store.

 

The “Real” thing is hard tofind locally.

 

I did look at the eBay vendor cited otheritems and found this 5-pack

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111146956435?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

If I bought today I wouldn’t receivethem until between March 4th and 20th.

 

Glenn

 


From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of Ed S
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 201409:41
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: Re: [WiringForDCC]Emergency stop button -- IMHO

 




Glen,

The Emergency stop switch I bought is probably about as expensive as the partsyou need.

It is already assembled, painted and labeled. It is obvious to what it is.Ready for surface mount ( there are punch-outs in the bottom) and it looks veryprofessional. All I have to do is stick a wire in it.

You could use several in series.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130970913952?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Ed S



 

At 05:48 AM 2/12/2014, you wrote:

 

 

Materials:

           Economy light switches. Look for them in bulk boxes at the home centers. Theyare about a third the cost of the boxed variety.

           Junction boxes. I typically use the blue plastic 1x2.5x3.5 box. I drilltwo small holes about 3/8 in from the front and mount them with drywallscrews. The will take the standard switch or outlet.

           Cover plate. Get the typical face plate, rough sand it, definitely prime with asolvent based prime, and paint it what ever color you desire.

           Wire. Two-wire household wire is fine since it is a closed loop.

 

Glenn


Re: Just Out of Curiosity

Flash Gordon
 

Glenn,

Great idea, you know the inevitable question will come from the wife

"How much time do you spend on that stupid toy train?" Now you can document it.

Ed S

At 10:13 AM 2/13/2014, you wrote:


Have you ever wondered how much time you spend on running trains?

While searching through the item of the seller of Ed's switch I found this
item.

Hour Meter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111146953956?var=410204514930&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:
IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

eBay item number: 111146953956

I previously installed one on my tractor so I would know when an oil change
was due. It cost me $40 plus $11 for the adaptive wiring harness.

This one can connect to the track leads or via a wall-wart to a power strip.

Glenn

Re: Emergency stop button -- Annuder Variant

Flash Gordon
 

Don,

Yes it is great how we digress, but fun to do on a snowy day.

Let me respond:

Motion detector.... yessssss if no motion the whole thing goes to sleep... like a dead mans switch... being retired I do nod off now and then.. great to wake up and everything is where you left it. No corn field meets.

Seriously, I just want to turn off all the power quickly if something bad happens. I can't run to the other end of the layout anymore.

Building code: In Ohio as long as any electrical item is plugged into a wall outlet, anything you do beyond that is your problem. If you hard wire into a circuit then everything has to be in conduit and boxes.

I plan to plug into a dedicated circuit that has a 10amp circuit breaker in the service panel with one "custom made heavy extension cord" to my kill switch .... then branch out with power strips for accessories.

My bedroom is above the basement layout and I do not want to wake up with smoke in my room.

If I am pulling more then 10 amps with this layout, then something will have to go, on a fixed income I can't afford the electricity.

Ed S

At 12:13 PM 2/13/2014, you wrote:


Interesting how the discussion in a forum sways back and forth.
What Ed seemed to want was a mushroom head e-stop button to disconnect all power to the layout, maybe one with multiple stations. Not sure why he wanted it but it is his RR. Seemed to already have found one on e-bay.
From there it diverged into using D-I-Y relays (some at 120V no less) or the commercially available X-10 controls or even the 'clapper'.
Then a note or two about killing only the DCC track power.
Then several methods of built-in e-stop features of various brand 'throttles' to stop a locomotive and/or possibly all DCC track voltage.
Then to using a single switch to control not only the layout, but also room lighting.
Soon we will be discussing using cannibalized IR motion detectors from an outdoor light fixture to automatically kill whole room power when leaving for grandma's house. (Or was that on a different forum?)
Someone opens the door and the ideas just pour in! Enjoy.

Please don't fiddle with 120Vac power wiring (220V for you guys down under) unless you really know what you are doing, and your local inspector and insurance company agrees.

DonV

Re: Emergency stop button -- Annuder Variant

Carl
 

Hello Glenn:

I've used the Atlas Snap Relay and found it overpriced for its "toy" construction. May I suggest commercial relays like this one:

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/RLY-565/5VDC-DPDT-LATCHING-RELAY-SURFACE-MOUNT/1.html

Same function but a sealed case with rated contacts, and only $1.

I buy a lot from All Electronics and it is a hoot to visit their store!

Carl.

On 2/13/2014 8:39 AM, Glenn wrote:
 

On a different take get an Atlas Snap relay (#200) and put it between the system and the track. Place push buttons in appropriate places around the layout.