Date   
Re: Reality Check Needed - See File and/or Read Description

Rick Allison
 

Ed,


Thank you so much for the reply. It's great that you are rescuing the old layout and incorporating in a (HUGE!) new one. Wish I had that kind of space. My old layout is long gone 


Thanks also for the guidance on placement of the reverse protector; I'll review that and Don V.'s recommendation as well before moving forward. It's exactly why I joined the group.


Alas, I am a cheap SOB and am using SCARM for my layout plans (no where near as versatile as RTS, but pretty easy to learn and 100% free in beta form) so that precludes an exchange of files; but I do appreciate the offer.


Once again, thanks for weighing in on the reversing district.



Re: Reality Check Needed - See File and/or Read Description

Vollrath, Don <dvollrath@...>
 

Rick,

You have done well to draw out the track plan using different colors to identify rail polarity. Note that one must traverse both the A and B double crossovers in order to reverse the direction of a train. It looks easier to me to isolate the polarity reversing issue at crossover B.

 

1.       At crossover B Provide isolating joiners at both frog rails on both of the lower turnouts leading to the diamond. The upper turnouts and the diamond of B remain fixed at the polarity of the outer loop.

2.       Determine the maximum length of a train. Follow the inner loop tracks of the figure 8 from crossover B about that same distance in both directions from B. This is where you need to place additional isolating joiners or gaps on both rails for the minimum practical length of auto-reversing track.

3.       Going CW from B, I would put insulating joiners at the point end of the siding turnout at the 6 o’clock position of the loop. If that is not far enough from B, put them at the point end of the three-way turnout, keeping the lower turnout and siding as part of the isolated loop.

4.       Going CCW from B, I would place isolating gaps past the overpass, maybe near the 5 or 6 o’clock position of the left loop of the figure 8… or even at the turnout near the 10 o’clock position.

5.       That isolated track segment, including the two lower turnouts at B, form the polarity reversing section. Wire those tracks to the AR-1 auto-reverser.

6.       All other tracks on the layout including crossover C are constant polarity. Be sure to provide plenty of track droppers for adequate DCC connections.

 

You could interlock the double crossovers of A and B, but it is probably not worth the effort. That would also prevent the opportunity of a long continuous single train run overall of the mainline tracks in both directions.

For simplicity I recommend providing a single PB or toggle switch to select ‘straight’ or X-over for all 4 motor controlled turnouts at each of the double crossovers. Then there is no need to fiddle with multiple switches.  

 

If you plan on multiple operators. It might pay in the long run to further isolate the figure 8 loop into two pieces by adding insulating joiners at B on the straight track between the two lower turnouts. For now wire those tracks up to the single AR-1. But in the future you may want to add a 2nd AR-1 for independent multiple train operations at the industry tracks while another train uses the overpass. You may also want to isolate the yard under the overpass from the A crossover, and feed it via an electronic CB protected district.

 

DonV

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of Rick Allison
Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2014 9:43 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Reality Check Needed - See File and/or Read Description

 




I'm putting together my first layout in 40+ years-and I have a couple of wiring questions. I've read through Alan's website but have not found an example that matches my situation, so before I build it I thought it best to come here for a reality check.

 

The layout is a fairly simple 5x9 consisting of two concentric loops surrounding a figure 8. There is a Walthers/Shinohara "DCC-Friendly" double-crossover connecting the concentric loops at the 6 o'clock position, but wiring that should be pretty straightforward. Where it gets tricky is this:

 

There is also a double crossover between the inner loop and the left-hand lobe of the figure 8, at about the 11 o'clock position. The top of the right-hand lobe of the 8 is elevated over/above the inner loop, and there is a double-crossover between that right-hand lobe and the outer loop at about the 1 o'clock position.

 

Both of those double-crossovers each use a Walthers/Shinohara curved turnout plus three Atlas turnouts tied together with a 45-degree crossover. (See file HORRTG Layout Polarity Plan.jpg.)

 

My main question is: With insulating joiners separating the 45-degree crossovers from their respective inner and outer loops, can I use a single auto-reverser (like a Digitrax AR1) between my booster/bus and the figure 8, thereby reversing polarity on the entire figure 8 when an engine crosses over to or from either the inner or outer loops? Or do I need an auto-reverser near each of those double-crossovers? Or...?

 

Secondary question--although it's a small layout running 3 engines tops, is it worth setting up those two crossovers in such a way as to prevent two engines hitting the reversing figure 8 at more or less the same time (wiring the switches to ensure only one crossover can diverge at a time, or wiring the crossovers with a sensor so that if one is in use the other is de-powered, for example?).

 

Sorry for the lengthy description; hopefully I've got the ''HORRTG Layout Polarity Plan' file or Picture uploaded correctly to better explain what I'm trying to do...

 

Thanks in advance for your guidance,

 

- Rick

 




Re: Reality Check Needed - See File and/or Read Description

Flash Gordon
 

Rick,


We seem to be on the same "track", I am also returning to HO after decades away. 


We both have a 5 x 9 area. Mine was first created back in the 90's with my sons. When they left the layout went up in the barn rafters for about 15 years. After retiring I decided to redo it last year.'


See drawing in (Ed S stuff).  I do not have any reverses in my 5x9, but another drawing shows where I will be adding a little more track.  The new section will have a reverse loop, a wye and a double cross over between 2 main tracks. So I have reverses to deal with.


From reading an experimenting I have decided to reverse protect whole districts. 


I started layout in the program RTS 8.0 which shows wiring conflicts and resolved those. Now I am using XTrkCAd 4.03a so I can work on clearances.


Looking at your lay out I see the reverse loop in the middle. I would put a reverse protector to the left of switch 7 and protect that whole district. Then gap all the track leading into that district.


If your are using RTS 8 you can send me the file and I can try it out and I can send you mine if your are interested.


Ed S

Reality Check Needed - See File and/or Read Description

Rick Allison
 

I'm putting together my first layout in 40+ years-and I have a couple of wiring questions. I've read through Alan's website but have not found an example that matches my situation, so before I build it I thought it best to come here for a reality check.

The layout is a fairly simple 5x9 consisting of two concentric loops surrounding a figure 8. There is a Walthers/Shinohara "DCC-Friendly" double-crossover connecting the concentric loops at the 6 o'clock position, but wiring that should be pretty straightforward. Where it gets tricky is this:

There is also a double crossover between the inner loop and the left-hand lobe of the figure 8, at about the 11 o'clock position. The top of the right-hand lobe of the 8 is elevated over/above the inner loop, and there is a double-crossover between that right-hand lobe and the outer loop at about the 1 o'clock position.

Both of those double-crossovers each use a Walthers/Shinohara curved turnout plus three Atlas turnouts tied together with a 45-degree crossover. (See file HORRTG Layout Polarity Plan.jpg.)

My main question is: With insulating joiners separating the 45-degree crossovers from their respective inner and outer loops, can I use a single auto-reverser (like a Digitrax AR1) between my booster/bus and the figure 8, thereby reversing polarity on the entire figure 8 when an engine crosses over to or from either the inner or outer loops? Or do I need an auto-reverser near each of those double-crossovers? Or...?

Secondary question--although it's a small layout running 3 engines tops, is it worth setting up those two crossovers in such a way as to prevent two engines hitting the reversing figure 8 at more or less the same time (wiring the switches to ensure only one crossover can diverge at a time, or wiring the crossovers with a sensor so that if one is in use the other is de-powered, for example?).
 
Sorry for the lengthy description; hopefully I've got the ''HORRTG Layout Polarity Plan' file or Picture uploaded correctly to better explain what I'm trying to do...

Thanks in advance for your guidance,

- Rick

Re: DCC journey What is best for your Father's Son?

john
 

Guys,
   2x2 modules won't work, corners have to be 4x4 for a 2xX foot layout.
john
   rom: Carl
To: WiringForDCC@...
Sent: Tuesday, February 4, 2014 12:54 AM
Subject: Re: [WiringForDCC] DCC journey What is best for your Father's Son?



Hello:

Another way to start a layout is Modules. You could build four 2x2 corners and two 2x4 straight modules. Each module you build will be better than the last until you replace the first with something better. Till then you can move the parts around to fill any room, or your back yard. This is what I did. I had modules that could build a 14' x 42' with a turntable and a 9 track yard. I ran a lot of trains. Then my dream layout construction caught up to where I needed the turntable. I gave the modules to the local club so they had something to run. I learned a lot and gained many skills.

I have a major Digitrax control system and it works fine for me. I like the size of the UT-4 controllers and they do everything I wish. The radio system is OK too.

Good luck, Carl.





Re: Coach lighting

Flash Gordon
 

I think Don meant no you do not need a fifth diode.

Ed S


At 04:30 PM 2/4/2014, you wrote:
 

Yes. Using a bridge rectifier corrects for either track polarity and protects the LEDs from reverse voltage.

DonV

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [ mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of Thomas Cockle
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2014 10:01 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Re: Coach lighting

 




I use a bridge rectifier ahead of the LED lighting (so that when I run at my DC-only club the lights work in both directions).   Since a bridge rectifier is actually four diodes, doesn't this solve the reverse voltage problem as well?

Or should I add another diode?

Tom Cockle

McKinleyville CA

 

Re: Coach lighting

Vollrath, Don <dvollrath@...>
 

Yes. Using a bridge rectifier corrects for either track polarity and protects the LEDs from reverse voltage.

DonV

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of Thomas Cockle
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2014 10:01 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Re: Coach lighting

 




I use a bridge rectifier ahead of the LED lighting (so that when I run at my DC-only club the lights work in both directions).   Since a bridge rectifier is actually four diodes, doesn't this solve the reverse voltage problem as well?

Or should I add another diode?

Tom Cockle

McKinleyville CA

 

 

Wed Jan 29, 2014 7:39 pm (PST) . Posted by:

"Ed S" ed.kolt

Max,

Thanks that makes sense. I will include a diode if I decide to power 
LEDs from the track.

Ed S

At 10:14 PM 1/29/2014, you wrote:
>
>
>LED's will stand only a few volts (5-7) in reverse from the normal 
>polarity for lighting them. If on DCC they are under reverse voltage 
>half the time. If you have 2 or 3 in series the reverse voltage 
>might divide evenly, but very unlikely, so it's best to prevent 
>stressing the LED's by adding a regular diode as well. These are 
>usually have minimum reverse rating of at least 59 volts so more 
>than adequate for DCC track voltage levels. And yes someone may be 
>using them without diodes and so far nothing happened, but that's no 
>substitute for a little proper engineering.
>
>
>
>Max




Re: Power Pax ?

terryintexas7@...
 

I have a Zephyr with 3 UT-4 throttles although i have infrared i do not use it
 
I bought the powerpax because the Zephyr didn't have the power to program the sound decoders of QSI and Tsunami
I've used it for 3 years and programmed more than 4 dozen locos
 
I may have shorted it out or it died of old age
 
I ordered a new one
 
 

In a message dated 2/4/2014 3:04:39 P.M. Central Standard Time, trains@... writes:
 

Terry,

At our club we are using a Digitrax system and was having intermittent issues using the Power Pax. We figured out that it would not work using the wireless radio but would work every time if we were plugged directly into loconet. I assume this is probably a Digitrax issue except for the fact that we can program off the programming track using the wireless without the Power Pax connected.

Not sure which system you have but thought I would share this.

 

 

Gary

Re: Coach Lighting

Joseph Pyland <jpyland@...>
 

Carl,

 

This is the same, and if you want less than 100 they are 5 cents:

 

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/1N4937-E3-54/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtbRapU8LlZD0HbIjlpuZ44w5SbTnHgxIc%3d

 

BTW a 100 are 4.1 cents each.

 

Joe Pyland

Hewitt TX

 

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of Carl
Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2014 09:40
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: Re: [WiringForDCC] Coach Lighting

 

 

Hi Gang:

Would these 6 cent diodes work?

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/1N4937/1-AMP-600-VOLT-FAST-RECOVERY-RECTIFIER/1.html

I reuse a lot of things, but some new items aren't expensive and just easier.

Carl.

On 2/4/2014 9:35 AM, Ed S wrote:

 

Dick,

You just made life a whole lot easier. I have to try that out.
Gleaning those "Current Limiting Diodes" from the cheap led tapes
would be worth it. I think you could just cut the tape around the
"CLD" and use as is.

Ed S

 

Re: DCC journey

Mark Gurries
 

Your not stuck with the large default LCD based hand controller (ProCab).  NCE has 5 smaller throttles to choose that are all about running trains.

On Feb 3, 2014, at 4:56 PM, microrails@... wrote:



Dan hear, I have both systems.  I started of with a Digitrax Cheif, added radio.  A fiend had a NCE system and I ended up buying the NCE Power Pro with radio, added a NCE Power Cab with radio.  I ended up giving my Digitrax system to my son.  The only thing I don't like about the NCE system is The size of the hand controller. Thats my only complaint. 
Dan in Longview, WA.


From: "William Teeters" <cozyflyr9398@...>
To: WiringForDCC@...
Sent: Monday, February 3, 2014 3:43:02 PM
Subject: Re: [WiringForDCC] DCC journey


That's great but, would you consider Digitrax?. Its amongst  the most popular DCC system out there. It can be run as simply or as complex as you can imagine. 
Sites you can visit are DCCfor everyone, Digitrax of course and DCC-Sound. Great enthueism!, Look at different systems before you make that purchase. Good Luck Bill Teeters Chicago,Peoria and Western ho RR. as seen on RockRail.org.


From: Bruce Bailey
To: "WiringForDCC@..."  
Sent: Monday, February 3, 2014 4:25 PM
Subject: [WiringForDCC] DCC journey

 
Hello,
I already built the table(4x8) and I'm stuck. I'm very patient (2 years and counting), my wife has given me the thumbs up sign. I was going to just DC but when I caught a glimpse of DCC I was hooked. Here's the question: Should I purchase a Bachmann commander 00501 DCC ready set or wait and piece together a better set?
P.s. My has been so great in my endeavor I want to share in the construction.
Thanks again,
Bruce Bailey

Sent from my iPod






Best Regards,

Mark Gurries
Electrical Engineer
DCC Website & NMRA DCC Clinics: www.markgurries.com



Re: Coach Lighting

Vollrath, Don <dvollrath@...>
 

Yes, those diodes will work,.

DonV

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of Carl
Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2014 9:40 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: Re: [WiringForDCC] Coach Lighting

 



Hi Gang:

Would these 6 cent diodes work?

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/1N4937/1-AMP-600-VOLT-FAST-RECOVERY-RECTIFIER/1.html

I reuse a lot of things, but some new items aren't expensive and just easier.

Carl.

On 2/4/2014 9:35 AM, Ed S wrote:

 

Dick,

You just made life a whole lot easier. I have to try that out.
Gleaning those "Current Limiting Diodes" from the cheap led tapes
would be worth it. I think you could just cut the tape around the
"CLD" and use as is.

Ed S





Re: Coach Lighting

Flash Gordon
 

CARL,

You are correct but the part we are stealing is also a current limiting resistor so the LED's will work on 12V.  A diode and a resistor in  one  package.

Ed S


At 10:39 AM 2/4/2014, you wrote:
 

Hi Gang:

Would these 6 cent diodes work?

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/1N4937/1-AMP-600-VOLT-FAST-RECOVERY-RECTIFIER/1.html

I reuse a lot of things, but some new items aren't expensive and just easier.

Carl.

On 2/4/2014 9:35 AM, Ed S wrote:
 

Dick,

You just made life a whole lot easier. I have to try that out.
Gleaning those "Current Limiting Diodes" from the cheap led tapes
would be worth it. I think you could just cut the tape around the
"CLD" and use as is.

Ed S

Re: Coach Lighting

Carl
 

Hi Gang:

Would these 6 cent diodes work?

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/1N4937/1-AMP-600-VOLT-FAST-RECOVERY-RECTIFIER/1.html

I reuse a lot of things, but some
new items aren't expensive and just easier.

Carl.

On 2/4/2014 9:35 AM, Ed S wrote:
 

Dick,

You just made life a whole lot easier. I have to try that out.
Gleaning those "Current Limiting Diodes" from the cheap led tapes
would be worth it. I think you could just cut the tape around the
"CLD" and use as is.

Ed S


Re: DCC journey

B K
 

I would say play with some DCC and decide how into it you want to get.
 
But you will probably want something that can read back CV values and change more than just the locomotive address. 
 
I built a dual-purpose layout designed so I could switch back and forth from HO to On30 by changing trains and structures and intended only to use the DCC on the On30 – and that even by accident initially, I bought an old MRC system that uses a dial to select locomotive address for like $15 at a show and figured I’d try it out.  But it has a design flaw, easy to short the wires and mess it up, I paid once to have it fixed and managed to short it again.  So I figured it was time for something better, and I bought by price an MRC Prodigy Express.
 
Which is fine for the On30 (all the engines are Bachmann and use the same decoders), but as I have dabbled more into HO with DCC I find it lacks a couple of key features, primarily the ability to read back CV values. 
 
Another thing you may run into is trying to consist units to run together, different decoders will behave differently out of the box and you need to be able to adjust and tune them.  In another fluke deal, my supposed to be DC Bowser C430 came through with factory DCC Sound.   So I got a DC C630 to run with it and put an NCE decoder in.  The C430 has some momentum programmed in and my next learning experience is programming the C630 to play nice with it – right now, it starts and slips a bit until the C430 starts moving, then when I stop them the C630 stops right away and the C430 pushes on it and slips a bit until it stops. 
 
I also picked up a couple of used engines with decoders and couldn’t get them to go – I never considered they were consisted together – and without the ability to read CV’s I couldn’t ID who’s decoder it was to reset them.  I eventually got one running, the other I haven’t finished straightening out; I got it to where it will run only in one direction and only with the lights turned off.  A lot of trial and error. 
 
 
Bottom line is were I to do it over again I’d buy a little better system, and at some point I will upgrade this one; one of the few things I like about the MRC is I don’t need to buy the whole works again, just the better throttle. 
 
 
And it seems to have power enough to run trains on a roughly 10x14 semi-modular layout with a middle peninsula. 
 
 
 
Bill K.
 

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3684/7058 - Release Date: 02/03/14

Re: Coach Lighting

Flash Gordon
 

Dick,

You just made life a whole lot easier. I have to try that out. Gleaning those "Current Limiting Diodes" from the cheap led tapes would be worth it. I think you could just cut the tape around the "CLD" and use as is.

Ed S

At 06:44 PM 2/3/2014, you wrote:


I have used these strips to light several HO coaches.
Added a resistor to control the lighting brightness a bit. No rectifiers or regulators. These are in waltzers cars with all wheel pickup.
No issues with flickering, or back voltage on DCC.

I have also taken a few LEDs from strips for other applications, and, in a frugal manner, saved the "resistors".
After some of the comments I decided to test these "resistors" and found they appear to be current limiting diode packages.
In one direction they indicate about 5k resistance and in the other direction infinite resistance.
Are these the illusive current limiting diodes we have been looking for for other single LED installations?

Dick Sutcliffe
General Manager
Bradley, Roger & Tidewater Rwy.
Cariboo Traction Company

Re: Power Pax ?

trains@...
 

Terry,

At our club we are using a Digitrax system and was having intermittent issues using the Power Pax. We figured out that it would not work using the wireless radio but would work every time if we were plugged directly into loconet. I assume this is probably a Digitrax issue except for the fact that we can program off the programming track using the wireless without the Power Pax connected.

Not sure which system you have but thought I would share this.

 

 

Gary

Re: DCC journey What is best for your Father's Son?

Carl
 

Hello:

Another way to start a layout is Modules. You could build four 2x2 corners and two 2x4 straight modules. Each module you build will be better than the last until you replace the first with something better. Till then you can move the parts around to fill any room, or your back yard. This is what I did. I had modules that could build a 14' x 42' with a turntable and a 9 track yard. I ran a lot of trains. Then my dream layout construction caught up to where I needed the turntable. I gave the modules to the local club so they had something to run. I learned a lot and gained many skills.

I have a major Digitrax control system and it works fine for me. I like the size of the UT-4 controllers and they do everything I wish. The radio system is OK too.

Good luck, Carl.

Re: DCC journey

Douglas Krahn
 

I tested several systems before purchasing my DCC system.  Personally, I really liked the NCE system over the other systems.  One of the features I liked  was the size of the controller (I have very large hands).  I think the NCE system is easier to use than the Digitrax system.  I recommend you try them all and find the one which works best for you.

Doug

From: "microrails@..."
To: WiringForDCC@...
Sent: Monday, February 3, 2014 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: [WiringForDCC] DCC journey
 
Dan hear, I have both systems.  I started of with a Digitrax Cheif, added radio.  A fiend had a NCE system and I ended up buying the NCE Power Pro with radio, added a NCE Power Cab with radio.  I ended up giving my Digitrax system to my son.  The only thing I don't like about the NCE system is The size of the hand controller. Thats my only complaint. Dan in Longview, WA.
From: "William Teeters" To: WiringForDCC@...Sent: Monday, February 3, 2014 3:43:02 PMSubject: Re: [WiringForDCC] DCC journey  
That's great but, would you consider Digitrax?. Its amongst  the most popular DCC system out there. It can be run as simply or as complex as you can imagine.
Sites you can visit are DCCfor everyone, Digitrax of course and DCC-Sound. Great enthueism!, Look at different systems before you make that purchase. Good Luck Bill Teeters Chicago,Peoria and Western ho RR. as seen on RockRail.org.

From: Bruce Bailey
To: "WiringForDCC@..."
Sent: Monday, February 3, 2014 4:25 PM
Subject: [WiringForDCC] DCC journey
 
Hello, I already built the table(4x8) and I'm stuck. I'm very patient (2 years and counting), my wife has given me the thumbs up sign. I was going to just DC but when I caught a glimpse of DCC I was hooked. Here's the question: Should I purchase a Bachmann commander 00501 DCC ready set or wait and piece together a better set? P.s. My has been so great in my endeavor I want to share in the construction. Thanks again, Bruce Bailey Sent from my iPod

Re: DCC journey What is best for your Father's Son?

Mark Cartwright
 

Bruce,


There is one serious aspect of Model Railroading which I have learned by 2014. There are thousands upon thousands of dollars worth of N Scale and HO Scale equipment, sitting in boxes which has never been used or perhaps ever seen a layout; All within 50 miles of this keyboard.   

====> And all I have to do to own it and get it running on my layout TODAY 

= Is show up with CASH. 

This is NOT the same hobby of 1977. Space is a major criteria to any consideration.

============================


A year ago, I would not have attempted to answer your question. However that was over 20 DCC Locomotives ago, some with sound. I am not so sure of any of the above, nor of any of the suggestions. Don't Delay and don't Store it.. Use it - Even if you just loop your bedroom with it along a ceiling ridge.

===

There is something more and it saddens me a bit. 

I have also bought the remnants of at least 7 defunct N Scale Layouts or ones that never even went to the operational stage. Now I am also coming on to HO Scale and just cleared out a large area of my basement for this scale as well. Why? Cause it is nearly FREE.  One day, I also came upon an O Scale Lionel System in the box, like new >> at a Thrift Store (I am running it around the Ceiling of my Bedroom) , and they have their own sort of DCC system, helped along by Neil Young. It's a great system for his son Ben.    

===> Now what is best for your Father's Son?

============================================================================

===> Here is the thing. Don't fret too much about it all. Just do something. Just what ever you can do... >>> Do it! Begin Today. Capri Diem as I like to joke.

===

While I would personally not own the Bachmann DCC system, nor would I even suggest it on any level to friend or enemy.  Oops! My own personal behavior not withstanding > I attended a DCC Seminar at our Local Hobby Shop. Seemed to me at first that the Shop's Personnel  ==== ?Though they all personally use MRC, they were pushing Bachmann.  Why?  This intrigued me, and I began to not only listen but to watch tell-tale signs of behavior. Sort of like Playing Poker. Digitrax seemed to be a bad word and nearly no mention was made of NCE.  It was Bachmann and then Bachmann Again. They even had to take one out of the box to operate it as an MRC system is normally connected to one of their operating systems. For this presentation > They just built a simple oval of track. In fact they went out of their way to make this happen.  Why just not use one of their already built and detailed layouts?   When the seminar was over, (and it was soon over) I milled about and listened to the other participants. Soon it began to make sense.

===  

?? Upwards and over $500 for a DCC System was no where on their customers horizon. It was simply not a target opportunity.  Mentioning CV values would have just confused the lot of them. None of the nearly dozen other participants had an actual operating layout. The room hoped for may actually be in use by another member of their family. Once the kid goes off to school ... kind of thing. Despite this, several Bachmann DCC systems were sold that day.

I mean - Isn't the point of having a store, to stay in business. 

===

So it's your railroad.  If 4 x 8 is the space you have... Then Go for it! And if $129 is in your pocket today. Then just waiting ...? Well don't wait too long.  Start today.

=

I have passed up both Bachmann and NCE DCC systems for under $100 used. I found and bought an MRC Wireless Prodigy for $220.  I will soon come upon a Prodigy Squared system (wired) which I will also buy. Yes, I will buy MRC again and would suggest it to my best friends. I should mention that my MRC USED system, did NOT come with an Instruction Manual.  I use it anyway and have not had  a single issue. It's intuitive to me, and has been a great introduction to DCC.

=

No Reading = No Confusion. I also have been on Macintosh since the Apple I. For some reason, them Other machines tend to break on me or simply not function. Sort of like never been able to get well prepared Grits anywhere outside of the South, that is except if being served on a Train. What works for you may not be the best for Others and location/space may mean everything.

Will all of the above stop me from buying Digitrax? No. I fully intend to eventually, drive myself a bit crazy, by reading one of their manuals. Eventually, I will want to go beyond simple CV programming and delve into JMRI and speed matching with intricate consisting.  So far however, I have not been willing to outbid Others on a Digitrax System. Meaning Yes, there are people out there who chose Digitrax as their first system, then found it overwhelming. Then there are Others, such as myself who upon a good deal will spring for one. 

=

Will I deliberately go running down one day to my Local Hobby Shop and buy a Digitrax System at  or near list price? No. And here is a serious reason why.  They know LESS than I do about DCC as of at least three months ago.  There won't be one once of any help in that MSRP price. There are no schools for their personnel to attend to by Digitrax. None of them own a Digitrax system. Actually, none of them know all that much about installing even a decoder and it all goes down from there. It is much easier to sell a Hasselblad, after you actually own one. 

==

What I will tell you... There is a level to DCC and Computer control with sound - Even above all of this. And it comes with a price, along with words like Loksound and BLI.

:)) Mark



When I was 7 years old, I received my first Train set.  The nice man asked my Father what system would be best for me. O Scale or HO? My Father then turned to me and I boldly stepped up saying HO Scale. Then the little precocious 7 year old began to nearly lecture the  man on why HO Scale was such a better system for our basement.

=

I was destined to then have 4 x 8 layout. However, when my Mother wanted a Ping Pong Table. Meaning at first my heart sank, thinking we were in competition for the same space.  Instead, I was able to go to 5 x 9 with a layout which was lifted up and onto her Table.  Nearly the whole rest of the week, except on Saturday Night when my parents friends would come over - I built my little empire. Especially in HO Scale, yes a 5 x 9 is like a whole other level. That extra foot does make a difference. Yet if you simply don't have it.... don't worry about it  - Start today anyway.


Re: Coach lighting

Max Maginness
 

Yes and No

 

From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...] On Behalf Of Thomas Cockle
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2014 8:01 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Re: Coach lighting

 

 

I use a bridge rectifier ahead of the LED lighting (so that when I run at my DC-only club the lights work in both directions).   Since a bridge rectifier is actually four diodes, doesn't this solve the reverse voltage problem as well?

Or should I add another diode?

Tom Cockle

McKinleyville CA

 

 

Wed Jan 29, 2014 7:39 pm (PST) . Posted by:

"Ed S" ed.kolt

Max,

Thanks that makes sense. I will include a diode if I decide to power 
LEDs from the track.

Ed S

At 10:14 PM 1/29/2014, you wrote:
>
>
>LED's will stand only a few volts (5-7) in reverse from the normal 
>polarity for lighting them. If on DCC they are under reverse voltage 
>half the time. If you have 2 or 3 in series the reverse voltage 
>might divide evenly, but very unlikely, so it's best to prevent 
>stressing the LED's by adding a regular diode as well. These are 
>usually have minimum reverse rating of at least 59 volts so more 
>than adequate for DCC track voltage levels. And yes someone may be 
>using them without diodes and so far nothing happened, but that's no 
>substitute for a little proper engineering.
>
>
>
>Max


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