Date   

Re: Wiring a Shinahora Double Crossover for DCC

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...>
 

Here's a drawing of the double crossover that shows what Don is
talking about.

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches_walthers_old.htm#a2

Allan


Re: Wiring a Shinahora Double Crossover for DCC

Vollrath, Don <dvollrath@...>
 

Keep both main tracks at the same polarity. [i.e - Wire both North rails to be at the same polarity. Don't make a figure 8 loop crossing through the crossover.]
Throw all 4 turnouts to be in the same position to avoid momentary shorts at the frogs.
No track cuts or special wiring is required.

For further enhancement, add continuity jumpers around point rail swivels and add microswitches (or a latching relay) to your switch machines to help electrify the point rails in parallel with the Shinohara built in contacts at the rail points. Be sure that the microswitches 'click' with the throw bar near mid position.
DonV

-----Original Message-----
From: barryleejohnson [mailto:johnson4@...]
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2005 1:02 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Wiring a Shinahora Double Crossover for DCC




Can any one help here. I have several of this crossovers and
understand that they can be a problem with shorting on DCC if the
wiring is not corrected. Are there any artilces I can obtain or can
anyone point me in the right direction. I have looked at the double
slip but they seem to be differently laid out.

BarryJ





http://www.WiringForDCC.com
Yahoo! Groups Links


Wiring a Shinahora Double Crossover for DCC

barryleejohnson <johnson4@...>
 

Can any one help here. I have several of this crossovers and
understand that they can be a problem with shorting on DCC if the
wiring is not corrected. Are there any artilces I can obtain or can
anyone point me in the right direction. I have looked at the double
slip but they seem to be differently laid out.

BarryJ


Re: Using Peco Electrofrog turnouts

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...>
 

Its time again to remind everyone it is your railroad. As long as
it works, you can do what you want to. What I try to give in my
website is bulletproof advice that will definitely work for everyone.

You don't have to cut your turnouts if you don't want to. However,
don't half follow the advice - meaning don't add any jumpers if you
don't make the cuts. A short will develop in the case of the Peco
Electrofrog.

One other thing I want to make sure I mention is that if you are
power routing any sidings, you may want to consider powering them
directly from a DCC bus. As previously mentioned about DCC and DC
currents, you may run into problems. It may work fine for several
years and then start giving you problems. You keep mentioning
putting insulated joiners on your turnout so I presume that you will
not be power routing your sidings. So this caution is aimed at
someone else who may come along and read this posting.

Definitely you want to make sure you are using at least 18 AWG bus
wiring.

And finally, the most important thing you should do when converting
a DC layout to DCC is give the ENTIRE layout the short test. Hook
up your booster and go around the layout with a quater or a pair of
pliers and short the track. Make sure your booster trips
immediately. Flip every turnout and test again. If your booster
doesn't trip, either your wiring is inadequate or your power routing
of your turnouts is inadequate. If you are power routing your
turnouts using your turnout's points, add some sort of switch or
relay to do your power routing for you.


Re: Digest Number 4

Dale Gloer
 

Paul,

as I said in my previous post, if your layout runs correctly on DC
then it will run correctly on DCC.

However, as Ulrich has pointed out, it is easy to ignore or not
notice little glitches that occur on DC that will cause DCC to shut
down. Those little hesitations in a switch with DC could be
temporary shorts that will cause the DCC system to shutdown and stop
all trains. So be critical when evaluating how your layout performs
on DC before you can say that it functions correctly. Go ahead and
just connect up your DCC system but don't be surprised if your
properly operating DC layout turns out to have some glitches that
will be exposed by DCC.

Regarding cutting up switches. This is heresey on Allan's forum -
BUT - you don't need to perform any of the modifications just
because you are switching to DCC. And all the modifications
actually apply to DC as well. The modifications describe how to
make switches trouble free forever. On my previous layout, I used
Peco Electrofrog swithces and did not do any of the mods. On both
DC and DCC I had the usual problems of poor contact, etc. when
depending on point rails to make contact with stock rails for power.
On my new layout I have made the mods on all switches as I installed
them.

Regarding Ulrich's comments on wiring. Rewiring is a good idea
following the priciples that are also given by Allan and others.
however, to get started, you probably don't need to. Start running
DCC and if you find trouble spots, address those first and then
develop a plan to do the wiring conversion in stages so you can keep
your railroad running and upgrade it at the same time. It can be
done.

Dale.


--- In WiringForDCC@..., Ulrich Albrecht <albreuf@m...>
wrote:
Paul,

One of the statements I often heard about conversion from DC to
DCC is
that if everything works under DC, just hook up a DCC booster, and
things
will work. In my opinion, this has to be taken with a grain of
salt, and
here are my reasons:

a) DC uses much lower current loads than DCC. I you use a booster
like
Digitrax DB150 or DCS100, the maximum output is 5A, while a good
power
pack in DC may deliver 2A. You may end up overloading your DC
wiring with
a DCC-booster. I rewired my lauout completely.

b) DC is much less sensitive to shorts than DCC. This applies
particular
to turnouts. A metal whell that short circuits a turnout may not be
noticed by the DC powerpack due to the short duration of the
short, but it
will trigger the booster.

My sugestion, rewire the whole thing unless you have a AVG#18
power bus
(actually I would use AVG# 14 or lower when rewiring). The #18 is
o.k.
unless your loads will exceed 3A, in this case it will cause a
voltage
drop. Also make sure that all your wheels are in gauge, so that
they do
not touch parts of switches which are connected to opposite
outputs of the
booster. As far as Peco turnouts are concerned, I have no
experience, but
if you do not have a short under DC, your set-up should work
except for
b).

Ulrich


Re: Digest Number 4

Ulrich Albrecht <albreuf@...>
 

Paul,

One of the statements I often heard about conversion from DC to DCC is
that if everything works under DC, just hook up a DCC booster, and things
will work. In my opinion, this has to be taken with a grain of salt, and
here are my reasons:

a) DC uses much lower current loads than DCC. I you use a booster like
Digitrax DB150 or DCS100, the maximum output is 5A, while a good power
pack in DC may deliver 2A. You may end up overloading your DC wiring with
a DCC-booster. I rewired my lauout completely.

b) DC is much less sensitive to shorts than DCC. This applies particular
to turnouts. A metal whell that short circuits a turnout may not be
noticed by the DC powerpack due to the short duration of the short, but it
will trigger the booster.

My sugestion, rewire the whole thing unless you have a AVG#18 power bus
(actually I would use AVG# 14 or lower when rewiring). The #18 is o.k.
unless your loads will exceed 3A, in this case it will cause a voltage
drop. Also make sure that all your wheels are in gauge, so that they do
not touch parts of switches which are connected to opposite outputs of the
booster. As far as Peco turnouts are concerned, I have no experience, but
if you do not have a short under DC, your set-up should work except for
b).

Ulrich

--- In WiringForDCC@..., sawlumber@a... wrote:
I have an existing layout. I'm getting ready to change over to
DCC. I have
Electrofrog Peco turnouts. I have heard that if you put
insulators on the
frog rails and the stock rails of the switch, I won't have to
tear them out
and re-wire them? Any ideas?

Thanks
Paul



Re: switches and lights

Vollrath, Don <dvollrath@...>
 

Not directly, if I understand your question correctly.
The Atlas Snap Switches (the turnout) have a metal but non-powered frog.
You can power the frog by using external microswitches or relays, one of which is also called an Atlas Snap-Switch. This device is a twin coil mechanical latching relay that can be wired in parallel with the Atlas twin coil switch machine that operates the turnout. The contacts of this relay can then be used to power the frog at the right polarity or operate a signal circuit. Once you have that, look at Allan's wiring aids at http://www.wiringfordcc.com/signaling.htm.
DonV

-----Original Message-----
From: Les Crawford [mailto:cei300@...]
Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 8:25 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] switches and lights




Good Morning, I am new to this list and my question is:

Is it possible using Atlas snap switches and DCC, to connect a two
light signal to it, to show red or green depending on which way the
switch is, without having to do it manually? Thank you for any help.

Les
Canadian Eastern Inland RR


switches and lights

Les Crawford <cei300@...>
 

Good Morning, I am new to this list and my question is:

Is it possible using Atlas snap switches and DCC, to connect a two
light signal to it, to show red or green depending on which way the
switch is, without having to do it manually? Thank you for any help.

Les
Canadian Eastern Inland RR


(No subject)

Dale Gloer
 

Paul,
if your layout is running correctly hnow on DC then you don't have
to do anything to start up with DCC.

However, if you want to change the way you power your tracks after
you convert to DCC, for example to change a yard that now has all
the track power routed through the switches - that is only the track
selected has power - to having all the tracks powered all the time,
then you will have to gap the frog rails of all the switches. There
is no need to gap the stock rails. If the yard in the example is
double ended, then you have gap the frogs at both ends. Of course
this means you have to run power feeders to all the yard tracks too.

Dale.


--- In WiringForDCC@..., sawlumber@a... wrote:
I have an existing layout. I'm getting ready to change over to
DCC. I have
Electrofrog Peco turnouts. I have heard that if you put
insulators on the
frog rails and the stock rails of the switch, I won't have to
tear them out
and re-wire them? Any ideas?

Thanks
Paul



Re: Insulated joiners at turnouts

donevol <dvollrath@...>
 

--- In WiringForDCC@..., sawlumber@a... wrote:
I have an existing layout. I'm getting ready to change over to
DCC. I have
Electrofrog Peco turnouts. I have heard that if you put
insulators on the
frog rails and the stock rails of the switch, I won't have to tear
them out
and re-wire them? Any ideas?

Thanks
Paul
Putting insulated joiners at the frog rail ends of the turnout during
the initial installation of does help to...
1) isolate electrofrogs without rail cutting.
2) isolate track into signal blocks
3) isolate a siding for manual power cut off
4) isolate reversing tracks (isolate both track rails)
5) isolate between power districts (both rails)

You can always wire up track power feeders on both sides to the same
bus if you don't need any of the above. But having the insulated
joiners already in place lets you change the electrical configuration
under the layout at a later time to get a feature above without
having to cut or rip up track.
DonV


(No subject)

sawlumber@...
 

I have an existing layout. I'm getting ready to change over to DCC. I have
Electrofrog Peco turnouts. I have heard that if you put insulators on the
frog rails and the stock rails of the switch, I won't have to tear them out
and re-wire them? Any ideas?

Thanks
Paul


Re: Old bulletin board

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...>
 

Yesterday the forum was "half working." The old forum comes up and
you can read messages, but when you try to post one, you get the
message that the forum server is dead.

I put a lot of energy into getting this new forum up and running
last night and converting all my old links to this new forum. I
guess I did a good job because I have no links left to get back to
the old forum. I even deleted my bookmark to it!


Old bulletin board

Dale Gloer
 

I tried the old bulletin board this morning - old habits are hard to
break - and it worked correctly! hmmmm

Dale.


Welcome to the New Wiring For DCC Q&A Forum!

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...>
 

This Q&A forum replaces the forum associated with the Wiring For DCC
website, http://www.WiringForDCC.com. The old forum was on a server
that is no longer supported.

Please feel free to ask any question that pertains to the wiring of
model trains and your railroad for Digital Command Control.

If you like to help others, please join the group and start
monitoring it.

Thank you for your support,

Allan Gartner
WiringForDCC.com