Date   
Re: Terminating Bus Ends

Vollrath, Don <dvollrath@...>
 

Mike...If your DCC bus runs are only 10 ft long in either direction you DON'T ndeed to do anything more. Just hook 'em up to the track and enjoy.
DonV

-----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@...
[mailto:WiringForDCC@...]On Behalf Of Michael
Sent: Friday, November 25, 2005 2:30 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] RE: Terminating Bus Ends


List,

Okay, now I am confused. I am by no way an electrical type person
but know enough to get myself into trouble. With that said...PLEASE
help me!

The way I interpret this thread of messages is that if I have a point
to point layout with the power, booster, command module, etc. located
in the middle of the run (in my case 10' in both directions) that I
need to put something on the ends of my "track power bus wires" (in
my case a red 14ga and a white 14ga) instead of just ending them on a
terminal block like I have done now (the layout is in the track
laying stages still). If so can someone tell me exactly what I need?

I ma an NSCALE modeler using ALL Digitrax DCC equipment including one
of their power supplies (I have 2 more if needed for future
expansion). Most of my decoders are Lenz with a few Digitrax throw
in the mix. I have a Chief Radio System with 5 throttles.

ANY HELP clarifying this before I burn it all up will certainly be
appreciated. I wiring diagram would be even better for an old guy
like me. THANKS in advance!

Mike Langford
SOO Line 1964-67






http://www.WiringForDCC.com
Yahoo! Groups Links

Circuit Schematics

rayfreeman3 <rayfreeman3@...>
 

Allan,

On your web site "Wiring for DCC" in Track Wiring, Part1, you have a
circuit diagram under the topic "Measuring DCC Track Voltage and
Current" Which shows leads to the track through a diode, capicitor and
resistor to a DC voltmeter.

Under this is two tables, one for Peak and one for Average.

Just to be clear, are you suggesting making two different instruments;
one for measuring peak volts and one to measure "average" volts using
essentially the same schematic?

I'm also afraid I'm not clear on the Alligator Clips vs Banana clips
immediately under this. Can you illuminate me?

Ray

What exactly is "Hybrid Drive"?

bobgrosh
 

What exactly is "Hybrid Drive"?
I see the term used on the web in relation to some feature of a Lenz
decoder, but find no mention of it on the Lenz web site. A search has
turned up nothing.

Anyone on this forum ever get an explanation or even what the
benefit/advantage of Hybrid Drive is?
BoB

wiring a helix

railfan22 <railfan22@...>
 

Could someone point me in the correct direction for wiring a four
turn helix for DCC in HO scale Thanks Scott hurley

Re: Terminating Bus Ends

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...>
 

Mike,

I don't think you need to worry about terminating your bus ends. For
one thing, you have relatively short runs - 10' in each direction.
Second, you are using Digitrax boosters which don't seem to exhibit
the problem other manufacturers have.

Still, it won't hurt if you add the terminations. Or for other
readers of this thread that have longer runs or other manufacturers'
equipment, here is a link to the section on adding terminations to
your buses: http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track_2.htm#c2

Allan

Re: Atlas Code 55 NScale Turnouts

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...>
 

Mike,

I'm sorry I don't have your favorite turnout on my website. Since the
website doesn't put food on my table, I can't cover everything. Some
manufacturers send me stuff and sometimes modelers send me turnouts to
look at. But even if I had the turnouts to look at, I'm working full
time and going to law school part time. So updates only happen at the
end of the semester. Until I figure out how to make a money making
venture out of this website, I'll keep doing the best I can.

I'm not sure if I know what your question is. I wouldn't expect the N-
scale Atlas turnouts to be any different than their HO counterparts.
Use the HO information on my website unless something is definitely
different. Let me know if there is a difference. The next time I go
to the train store, I'll take a look at one of the turnouts.

Assuming what I have written for the HO turnouts applies to your N
turnouts, my website describes how to wire each manufacturer's turnout.

You don't have to worry about burning up any decoders. There really
isn't anything you can do wrong. I can imagine some pretty far out
screw-ups like wiring two boosters together or wiring a booster to
your turnout power source that would cause you trouble. If you follow
the wiring practices on my website, you shouldn't have any trouble.

If you can articulate a more specific question, I or someone else on
this forum will be glad to try to help you.

Allan

Re: Terminating Bus Ends

Michael Langford
 

List,

Okay, now I am confused. I am by no way an electrical type person
but know enough to get myself into trouble. With that said...PLEASE
help me!

The way I interpret this thread of messages is that if I have a point
to point layout with the power, booster, command module, etc. located
in the middle of the run (in my case 10' in both directions) that I
need to put something on the ends of my "track power bus wires" (in
my case a red 14ga and a white 14ga) instead of just ending them on a
terminal block like I have done now (the layout is in the track
laying stages still). If so can someone tell me exactly what I need?

I ma an NSCALE modeler using ALL Digitrax DCC equipment including one
of their power supplies (I have 2 more if needed for future
expansion). Most of my decoders are Lenz with a few Digitrax throw
in the mix. I have a Chief Radio System with 5 throttles.

ANY HELP clarifying this before I burn it all up will certainly be
appreciated. I wiring diagram would be even better for an old guy
like me. THANKS in advance!

Mike Langford
SOO Line 1964-67

New file uploaded to WiringForDCC

WiringForDCC@...
 

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the WiringForDCC
group.

File : /MGL Dominos/INTERCHANGE DOMINOS.jpg
Uploaded by : lafoote <lafoote@...>
Description : Interchange Dominos - 12 Switches

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WiringForDCC/files/MGL%20Dominos/INTERCHANGE%20DOMINOS.jpg

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files

Regards,

lafoote <lafoote@...>

Atlas Code 55 NScale Turnouts

Michael Langford
 

List,

I am in the process of trying to figure out how to wire the new Atlas
Code 55 NScale Turnouts for a full DCC layout. I am using a Digitrax
Chief System. Your wonderful website doesn't seem to address these
turnouts. It seems to be a little out of date but it is still one of
the best references on the Internet.

I have a small Interchange section with 12 of them on it. Some
creating crossovers and some for stubs. The new turnouts have a
small tab on one side with a hole for soldering or using a screw.
The instructions that come with them all reference to the Atlas
switch machines BUT I am using Tortoise slow motion machines. I have
been trying to figure it out before I burn up a bunch of decoders.
Can you help me somehow?

I am uploading a JPEG of the interchange for you to look at. IT has
changed a little after the LDSIG gave me input but the design is
almost identical except for the distances between the switches.
Thanks in advance.

Yours Truly,
Mike Langford
SOO Line 1964-67

Re: Resistance Soldering

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...>
 

I'm glad to hear that people are watching the resistance soldering
video and getting something out of it.

You're right, the solder doesn't stick to the hemostat. I think the
hemostate is chrome plated. After about 7 years of use, some of the
chrome has come off my hemostats. Occassionally, it now sticks. But
until you mentioned it, I hadn't really thought about it. The solder
never flows around the hemostat. It does sometimes flow under the jaw
and does solder your wire and track together on the other side. But
not as much as you might think. The reason is that the hemostat sucks
a lot of heat away from the rail. So yes, things work out just like
in the video.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

Remember, hemostats make great stocking stuffers. Resistance
soldering stations make great Christmas presents. My wife says I
don't need any more locomotives. If I don't need any more trains,
what am I living for??? :-)

Resistance Soldering

jmscnw <jmscnw@...>
 

I will be purchasing a Resistance Soldering station soon but have
a question regarding demonstration video on WiringForDCC site:

It appears you are clamping down other end of wire with a hemostat
or other type of clamp. Won't the solder flow around the clamp and
fuse itself to the rail ? This doesn't occur in the video clip
so I am wondering how you accomplished this.

Decoder for Japanese Kato

xefere <xefere@...>
 

I've got a Digitrax 163KOA decoder that I am trying to install in a
KAto EF65 Engine. I need clarification on what I should do with the
wiring when I install this decoder. Can anyone give me a step by step?

Re: Terminating bus ends

Michael Beckemeier
 

The Newark part number is for a metal film resistor, Not wire wound.
I just like to see things run cool to the touch as much as possible.
For 54 cents a resistor, it's money well spent.

--- In WiringForDCC@..., Mark Gurries <gurriesm@c...>
wrote:

Do not use wirewound resistors. They will actually make things
worse!

Hot is a relative term. Power resistors normally are hot to the
touch.
There is nothing wrong with using larger resistors if your goal is
to
reduce any discomfort you have in working with them or coming into
contact with them. But it not required. There is not enough
power to cause any fire hazard or burn.

You can always use a series string of resistors to spread out the
heat.
Example: you could use 3 1/2W 39Ohm resistors in series. That will
give
you a long 117 ohm 1.5W resistor. The resistance accuracy is not
the
critical.

--- In WiringForDCC@..., "beckemeier53221"
<MBeckemeier@w...> wrote:
Thanks for the info Mike. I had already decided to use a 2 watt,
now I'll probably go with the 3 as you used.

Thanks for the info. Ken

I can attest to the resistors getting toasty. I had to install
over 90
of them on our club layout. Even the 1 watt resistor got quite
hot.

I eventually went with a 3 watt 130 ohm resistor and a 0.1uf 50 V
Capacitor. It really cleaned up the signal nice, and is not as
hot
to
the touch.

Capacitor:
Newark Part Number: 08B5602 Manufacturer Part Number:
C317C104M5U5CA.
Resistor:
Newark Part Number: 94C3740 Manufacturer Part Number :
5093NW130R0J

Mike Beckemeier

Re: Terminating bus ends

Mark Gurries
 

Sorry...typo...39 ohm series...somehow I must have hit the zero button
right before I hit the send button.

Mark, shouldn't that read .....1/2W 390Ohm resistors in "parallel"?
I thought wattages are additive in parallel and resistance is
additive in series? Or am I all mixed up?
Ken

--- In WiringForDCC@..., Mark Gurries <gurriesm@c...>
wrote:

You can always use a series string of resistors to spread out the
heat.
Example: you could use 3 1/2W 39Ohm resistors in series. That
will give
you a long 117 ohm 1.5W resistor. The resistance accuracy is not
the
critical.

--- In WiringForDCC@..., "beckemeier53221"
<MBeckemeier@w...> wrote:
Thanks for the info Mike. I had already decided to use a 2 watt,
now I'll probably go with the 3 as you used.

Thanks for the info. Ken

I can attest to the resistors getting toasty. I had to install
over 90
of them on our club layout. Even the 1 watt resistor got quite
hot.

I eventually went with a 3 watt 130 ohm resistor and a 0.1uf 50
V
Capacitor. It really cleaned up the signal nice, and is not as
hot
to
the touch.

Capacitor:
Newark Part Number: 08B5602 Manufacturer Part Number:
C317C104M5U5CA.
Resistor:
Newark Part Number: 94C3740 Manufacturer Part Number :
5093NW130R0J

Mike Beckemeier






http://www.WiringForDCC.com
Yahoo! Groups Links





Best Regards,

Mark Gurries
Linear Technology
Power Supply & Battery Charger Applications Engineer/Manager
---------------------------------------------------------
Model Railroad Club and NMRA DCC presentations are at:
http://www.siliconvalleylines.com/index.html
--------------------------------------------------------
Audio Enthusiast (Love SAE equipment)
http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/gurriesm/
----------------------------------------------------------






http://www.WiringForDCC.com
Yahoo! Groups Links





Best Regards,

Mark Gurries
Linear Technology
Power Supply & Battery Charger Applications Engineer/Manager
---------------------------------------------------------
Model Railroad Club and NMRA DCC presentations are at:
http://www.siliconvalleylines.com/index.html
--------------------------------------------------------
Audio Enthusiast (Love SAE equipment)
http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/gurriesm/
----------------------------------------------------------

Re: Terminating bus ends

brianw1138@...
 

Power is an odd beast and is governed by I^2R .
In Series, I remains constant, but you break up your R (in series Resistance is addative), and therefore your voltage drop. You can arrive at the same result using Ohm's law, but it takes more steps; I think I^2 R is more illustrative. Just remember there is teh over all R and the individual Rs....

But the same applies in Parrallel (power-wise), but for different reasons. With parallel Resistance you need to work out the parrallel resistance formula, then ratio the current through the individual resistors, then apply I^2 R. For similarly sized components, each carries half the current.

Basically, In series, for similarly size resistors, each carries the same current, but has a lower voltage drop (each device has half the drop). Whereas in parallel, each device carries half the current, but at the same voltage drop.

That may seem confusing, but believe me, it's based on actual math. As my professors used to say: The proof is left as an exercise for the student!

Does this help?

Re: Terminating bus ends

kdkalit <kenkal@...>
 

Mark, shouldn't that read .....1/2W 390Ohm resistors in "parallel"?
I thought wattages are additive in parallel and resistance is
additive in series? Or am I all mixed up?
Ken

--- In WiringForDCC@..., Mark Gurries <gurriesm@c...>
wrote:

You can always use a series string of resistors to spread out the
heat.
Example: you could use 3 1/2W 39Ohm resistors in series. That
will give
you a long 117 ohm 1.5W resistor. The resistance accuracy is not
the
critical.

--- In WiringForDCC@..., "beckemeier53221"
<MBeckemeier@w...> wrote:
Thanks for the info Mike. I had already decided to use a 2 watt,
now I'll probably go with the 3 as you used.

Thanks for the info. Ken

I can attest to the resistors getting toasty. I had to install
over 90
of them on our club layout. Even the 1 watt resistor got quite
hot.

I eventually went with a 3 watt 130 ohm resistor and a 0.1uf 50
V
Capacitor. It really cleaned up the signal nice, and is not as
hot
to
the touch.

Capacitor:
Newark Part Number: 08B5602 Manufacturer Part Number:
C317C104M5U5CA.
Resistor:
Newark Part Number: 94C3740 Manufacturer Part Number :
5093NW130R0J

Mike Beckemeier






http://www.WiringForDCC.com
Yahoo! Groups Links





Best Regards,

Mark Gurries
Linear Technology
Power Supply & Battery Charger Applications Engineer/Manager
---------------------------------------------------------
Model Railroad Club and NMRA DCC presentations are at:
http://www.siliconvalleylines.com/index.html
--------------------------------------------------------
Audio Enthusiast (Love SAE equipment)
http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/gurriesm/
----------------------------------------------------------

Re: Terminating bus ends

kdkalit <kenkal@...>
 

Mark, shouldn't that read .....1/2W 390Ohm resistors in "parallel"?
I thought wattages are additive in parallel and resistance is
additive in series? Or am I all mixed up?
Ken

--- In WiringForDCC@..., Mark Gurries <gurriesm@c...>
wrote:

You can always use a series string of resistors to spread out the
heat.
Example: you could use 3 1/2W 39Ohm resistors in series. That
will give
you a long 117 ohm 1.5W resistor. The resistance accuracy is not
the
critical.

--- In WiringForDCC@..., "beckemeier53221"
<MBeckemeier@w...> wrote:
Thanks for the info Mike. I had already decided to use a 2 watt,
now I'll probably go with the 3 as you used.

Thanks for the info. Ken

I can attest to the resistors getting toasty. I had to install
over 90
of them on our club layout. Even the 1 watt resistor got quite
hot.

I eventually went with a 3 watt 130 ohm resistor and a 0.1uf 50
V
Capacitor. It really cleaned up the signal nice, and is not as
hot
to
the touch.

Capacitor:
Newark Part Number: 08B5602 Manufacturer Part Number:
C317C104M5U5CA.
Resistor:
Newark Part Number: 94C3740 Manufacturer Part Number :
5093NW130R0J

Mike Beckemeier






http://www.WiringForDCC.com
Yahoo! Groups Links





Best Regards,

Mark Gurries
Linear Technology
Power Supply & Battery Charger Applications Engineer/Manager
---------------------------------------------------------
Model Railroad Club and NMRA DCC presentations are at:
http://www.siliconvalleylines.com/index.html
--------------------------------------------------------
Audio Enthusiast (Love SAE equipment)
http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/gurriesm/
----------------------------------------------------------

Re: Terminating bus ends

Mark Gurries
 

Do not use wirewound resistors. They will actually make things worse!

Hot is a relative term. Power resistors normally are hot to the touch.
There is nothing wrong with using larger resistors if your goal is to
reduce any discomfort you have in working with them or coming into
contact with them. But it not required. There is not enough power to
cause any fire hazard or burn.

You can always use a series string of resistors to spread out the heat.
Example: you could use 3 1/2W 39Ohm resistors in series. That will give
you a long 117 ohm 1.5W resistor. The resistance accuracy is not the
critical.

--- In WiringForDCC@..., "beckemeier53221"
<MBeckemeier@w...> wrote:
Thanks for the info Mike. I had already decided to use a 2 watt,
now I'll probably go with the 3 as you used.

Thanks for the info. Ken

I can attest to the resistors getting toasty. I had to install
over 90
of them on our club layout. Even the 1 watt resistor got quite hot.

I eventually went with a 3 watt 130 ohm resistor and a 0.1uf 50 V
Capacitor. It really cleaned up the signal nice, and is not as hot
to
the touch.

Capacitor:
Newark Part Number: 08B5602 Manufacturer Part Number:
C317C104M5U5CA.
Resistor:
Newark Part Number: 94C3740 Manufacturer Part Number :
5093NW130R0J

Mike Beckemeier






http://www.WiringForDCC.com
Yahoo! Groups Links





Best Regards,

Mark Gurries
Linear Technology
Power Supply & Battery Charger Applications Engineer/Manager
---------------------------------------------------------
Model Railroad Club and NMRA DCC presentations are at:
http://www.siliconvalleylines.com/index.html
--------------------------------------------------------
Audio Enthusiast (Love SAE equipment)
http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/gurriesm/
----------------------------------------------------------

Re: Reversing section advice

Vollrath, Don <dvollrath@...>
 

Blair, One more thought.
If some of your track is hidden, it one more reason for making track polarity reversals and switch controls occur automatically. For example: a train exiting out of loop L should automatically throw SW2 as it approaches the exit...and correct the track polarity of L to match. If you can't see the train, it will be difficult if not impossible to throw toggle switches manually to do the job. There is an example of how to do this using an auto-reverser and relay at http://www.wiringfordcc.com/sw_ctl.htm#a16
DonV

-----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@...
[mailto:WiringForDCC@...]On Behalf Of Rasa and Blair Smith
Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2005 7:28 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: RE: [WiringForDCC] Reversing section advice
<U said>
The flawless performance of this hidden trackage is important to me, as it
will be central to the operation of both my main line and one of the two
primary interchange railroads on my layout.

Re: Thinking switches.......

Vollrath, Don <dvollrath@...>
 

Reread Allan's ideas on DCC friendly switches at the link listed below. The bane of DCC is poor electrical connections and occasional short circuits can cause problems. Yes, you will want all rails energized.
I'm not familiar with Fleishmann-Profi products. I like Atlas cd 83 switches, but add wire bonding connections. The new DCC friendly switches from Walthers also look good as long as you add bonding wires and use an external microswitch to provide supplemental power to the frog.
DonV