Date   

Re: Swing gate

Jim Betz
 

Ron,
  Thanks.  The magnetic door locks is a method I hadn't heard about.  One guy I know
did lift outs like you are doing and used "V-blocks" of plywood for locating/re-locating
the lift out each time it goes back in place.  Worked very well.
                                                                                                       - Jim in PNW


Re: Wiring a swing gate?

Jim Betz
 

Wouter,

  I know all about keep alives - and install them on ALL of my locomotives..  I'm not
worried - the dead track will be almost a meter long and that will stop any train at
any speed with any number of MU'ed locos (however it will be rare to ever see
more than one loco on a train on my layout).  And yes - I also know about the
loss of control while the loco is running only on the keep alive.

Dave McBrayer,

  I'm not sure I understand your caution about the power thru the limit switch.  I
understand they can go bad - but the number of times these will make/break is
very low.  Remember - I am thinking I will use one limit switch per swing gate
which will "re-wire" both layers ... cause the track on the gate and 3 feet in 
either direction to go dead when the gate is open.

Ron Merrill/all,

  My -swing- gates are already done ... with the exception of the track going
across them.  They are very positive in terms of going back to the exact
same place every time they are closed ... so no problems with the track
not lining up perfectly.  In fact, it is my intent to run the track right across
the "gaps" (perhaps better called "joints"), spike it all down, and then cut
the rails with a Dremel.  Yes, these gates are that good/that dimensionally
stable and return to exactly the same position every time.

                                                      ****

  No one has ... yet ... suggested a method of killing the track power other
than the limit switch and relay(s).  Are there no other methods?  Or none
better?
                                                                                            - Jim in the PNW


Swing gate

ronmerrill69
 

I went to a lift out bridge method. I wired 3' space on either side of bridge, I  used the magnetic door locks, like you would use for cabinet doors, I soldered a wire on each lock, Basically if bridge is removed power 3' back on either side is dead. It also locks the bridge down into the grooves.  Also on top of bridge I soldered a block of circuit board under each side of track  and soldered the rails to it then isolated it from each track. I hope this helps 


Re: Wiring a swing gate?

whmvd
 

Jim,

Dead track is all very well, but the day you install a keep-alive in a loco you find you've shot yourself in the foot. Not only will it just carry on (how long will depend on the size of the keep-alive), but you will also find yourself with no control.

If you have detection, sending estop to those trains that shouldn't do what they are about to do is, for me, really the only way to go.

Wouter


On Wed, 8 Jun 2022 at 15:21, Jim Betz <jimbetz@...> wrote:
Hi,

  Very soon I'll be laying track across two swing gates.  Both gates are two 
levels of track.  When a gate is open I want the track on the gate - and the
approaches on either side - to be dead (no track power).

  What method for turning the power on and off do you recommend?  Or
better yet "have you used"?

  My thought is to use a micro switch that goes to a relay that cuts the
power/restores it.  I'm thinking the kind of switch that would be used for
a refrigerator door or some other such application.  These usually have
a short arm with a roller on it and are activated by the pressure that
moves the arm.  These are known as "limit switches".

        https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Micro-Switch-Roller-Action/dp/B0163B7W5A

  I'm open to other solutions/suggestions.
                                                                            - Jim in the PNW


Re: Wiring a swing gate?

David McBrayer
 

Jim, 
Using a “limit switch” to drive a relay is an excellent idea.  My suggestion is use a low AC voltage in the control circuit.  Note the current ratings on the switch you showed in the link.  
The reason for the much lower current rating with DC voltage is caused by arcing when the contacts open.  Initially the switch will “work” very well, but eventually the switch will become intermittent, and then fail.  Using a low AC voltage in the control circuit slows the degradation of the switch contacts immensely; to many years out.   An inexpensive wall wart transformer would be a great power supply. 

—Dave McBrayer 
Auburn, CA 
——————

On Jun 8, 2022, at 07:21, Jim Betz <jimbetz@...> wrote:

Hi,
  Very soon I'll be laying track across two swing gates.  Both gates are two 
levels of track.  When a gate is open I want the track on the gate - and the
approaches on either side - to be dead (no track power).

  What method for turning the power on and off do you recommend?  Or
better yet "have you used"?

  My thought is to use a micro switch that goes to a relay that cuts the
power/restores it.  I'm thinking the kind of switch that would be used for
a refrigerator door or some other such application.  These usually have
a short arm with a roller on it and are activated by the pressure that
moves the arm.  These are known as "limit switches".

        https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Micro-Switch-Roller-Action/dp/B0163B7W5A

  I'm open to other solutions/suggestions.
                                                                            - Jim in the PNW

--
Dave McBrayer
Auburn, CA


Re: Wiring a swing gate?

Allan AE2V
 

Hi Jim,

I've seen lift bridges done a couple of different ways.  I don't know that there is any particular better way than any other.  I'd worry about finding a good way to make sure that the rails on your bridge reliably line up each time.

You can get "big" micro switches that can handle the track current and you don't necessarily need the relay.  But maybe you might want to drive some signals, too.  So you would need a relay or some other things to accomplish doing this as well.

The main electrical thing to worry about is cutting the power far enough back from the open bridge that a train with momentum doesn't careen into the open abyss.  Also, you have to worry about locomotives with stay alive circuits.  If you cut the power, these locomotives won't stop.

In the early days of DCC, there was DCC braking.  I haven't heard this mentioned in a LONG time.  I don't know if decoders made today support it.  As I recall, you used a relay to put a brake signal on the track instead of the normal DCC track power/signal.

Good luck

Allan Gartner
Wiring for DCC


Re: Wiring a swing gate?

Tom O'Hara
 

Hi..
That is basically what I have used. I also decided to route the power so it cut off the tracks on both sides of the opening for 5 feet or so, which required (in my case) two switches. There may be a better way, but this was primitive and worked. All my stay alive circuits were adjusted to stop within that distance. Some people rig some form of mechanical stop to keep their engines from taking the Great Fall, but I felt safe without that. I'd be interested in hearing suggestions for a better method if there is one for the next railroad I build.

....Tom

On Wed, Jun 8, 2022 at 7:21 AM Jim Betz <jimbetz@...> wrote:
Hi,

  Very soon I'll be laying track across two swing gates.  Both gates are two 
levels of track.  When a gate is open I want the track on the gate - and the
approaches on either side - to be dead (no track power).

  What method for turning the power on and off do you recommend?  Or
better yet "have you used"?

  My thought is to use a micro switch that goes to a relay that cuts the
power/restores it.  I'm thinking the kind of switch that would be used for
a refrigerator door or some other such application.  These usually have
a short arm with a roller on it and are activated by the pressure that
moves the arm.  These are known as "limit switches".

        https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Micro-Switch-Roller-Action/dp/B0163B7W5A

  I'm open to other solutions/suggestions.
                                                                            - Jim in the PNW


Wiring a swing gate?

Jim Betz
 

Hi,

  Very soon I'll be laying track across two swing gates.  Both gates are two 
levels of track.  When a gate is open I want the track on the gate - and the
approaches on either side - to be dead (no track power).

  What method for turning the power on and off do you recommend?  Or
better yet "have you used"?

  My thought is to use a micro switch that goes to a relay that cuts the
power/restores it.  I'm thinking the kind of switch that would be used for
a refrigerator door or some other such application.  These usually have
a short arm with a roller on it and are activated by the pressure that
moves the arm.  These are known as "limit switches".

        https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Micro-Switch-Roller-Action/dp/B0163B7W5A

  I'm open to other solutions/suggestions.
                                                                            - Jim in the PNW


locked TEST Message

Allan AE2V
 

This is a TEST message.  Please DISREGARD.  Do NOT reply to this test message.

Thank you

Allan


PECO SL-U8363 and PECO PL10 Wiring

Tom Grassi
 

Hello All,

I have a Peco SL-U8363 and (2) PECO PL-10

On the back of the Double Slip package

They show one PL10 having   Track Power IN 
To Right Hand Frog
Track Power In

the other PL10  To Left Hand Frog

My question is 

The PL10 has 4 spots to solder a wire too
And they are not identified.

So I need two wire to go from the PL10 to My DCC Bus Line  and the other wire to the FROG wire on the Double Slip

But which connectors do I solder the wires on for the PL10

Thank you

Tom



--
Tom Grassi
trgrassijr@...


Re: DPDT Latching Push Button Switches?

 

Here is an inexpensive Chinese solution that I have used:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32899838442.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.47521802qwpSoY

Note that the 2-Gang option is the latching version.

Regards,

Ken Harstine


Re: DPDT Latching Push Button Switches?

Lawrence Varady
 

E-Bay    latching dpdt push button panel mount switch


Re: DPDT Latching Push Button Switches?

Jim
 


On Mon, May 9, 2022 at 2:04 PM emrldsky <azMikeG@...> wrote:
Panel mounting these might be a challenge.

Peace,
Mike G.


On Mon, May 9, 2022 at 11:35 AM Michael Boyle <boyle10017@...> wrote:
Thanks Steven,
Those will work. I was hoping to find similar switches with the more traditional red or black button.
- Michael


Re: DPDT Latching Push Button Switches?

emrldsky
 

Panel mounting these might be a challenge.

Peace,
Mike G.


On Mon, May 9, 2022 at 11:35 AM Michael Boyle <boyle10017@...> wrote:
Thanks Steven,
Those will work. I was hoping to find similar switches with the more traditional red or black button.
- Michael


Re: DPDT Latching Push Button Switches?

 

Thanks Steven,
Those will work. I was hoping to find similar switches with the more traditional red or black button.
- Michael


Re: DPDT Latching Push Button Switches?

Steven Tobias
 

On Mon, May 9, 2022 at 12:22 PM Michael Boyle <boyle10017@...> wrote:
Greetings,
Does anyone know where to buy DPDT latching push button switches, preferably in bulk?
Thanks,
Michael Boyle



--
Steven Tobias
Sales Representative, Illinois 

Encision, Inc

 

srtobias29@...

(224) 210-7853

 

www.encision.com

https://www.linkedin.com/company/encision

 


DPDT Latching Push Button Switches?

 

Greetings,
Does anyone know where to buy DPDT latching push button switches, preferably in bulk?
Thanks,
Michael Boyle


Re: Walthers Cornerstone 90' Turntable DCC Wiring issue

Tom Grassi
 

Hello All.

The problem was I guessed wrong.  The connector on the bottom of the turntable has no markings for A B C D  and when working up side down it looks right but it was not.  I flipped the Power and DCC wires on the connector and now it is working 

Thanks for all the help on this 



--
Tom Grassi
trgrassijr@...


Re: NCE Switch 8 alternative

Alexander Wood
 

Jim,

The turnout status will stay up to date as long as all commands are sent through a Power Pro via throttles/cabs or Mini Panels. They will get out of sync with a button board on a Switch 8, as it has no means of feedback to the Power Pro. If you route all the turnout commands through the Power Pro system, the brand of DCC decoder doesn't matter, it's just taking DCC accessory commands and throwing turnouts. You could have a mixture of different types of decoders and switch machines, as long as they all take DCC input. Although DCC is very limited as a method of controlling accessories, its advantage is that it is a standard, so you can mix and match decoders and the system controlling them. The eventual promise of LCC is that it will be a widely adopted standard for layout controls, unlike LocoNet that is proprietary to Digitrax and companies that Digitrax decides to license it to.

As for other DCC decoders, Digikeijs makes some interesting ones for servos or 3-wire switch machines including the MP1 machines, but they require adapters for slow motion machines. The DCC Concepts Cobalt IP Digital switch machines are pretty neat, they are a little more expensive than using separate decoders and Tortii, but they're easy to install since it's just two wires from the DCC accessory bus. RR-Cirkits makes the Motorman, which can be used with SSB (LocoNet) or as a DCC decoder. There are tons of other DCC decoders, but many cost a lot more on a per turnout basis. There's also DIY options, especially with Arduinos and servos, and if controlled through DCC, it would integrate with the DCC system.

The big advantage of DCC and the DCC standard is that you can, to a large extent, mix and match components from various manufacturers, as no single manufacturer offers best-in-class products in every category.

Alex

On Fri, May 6, 2022 at 9:06 AM JimD - G&J--BKRR <jim.donahue.amtrak@...> wrote:
I was hoping to be able to do both. I have enough and can get more button boards (and/or minipanels)  Sometimes operating with a dispatcher, sometimes with just 1-2 operators. 
I realize that a JMRI panel can get out of sync regarding true turnout positions but I believe this can be avoided at the start of a session with a script or possibly turnout feedback through an AIU.
I am no expert, but hopefully gaining a workable knowledge of the amazing system we know as DCC!!! 
Please correct any misunderstandings on my part! 
I did not plan on, nor have any hardware for, a Loconet nor LCC detection/control system.  as I decided my modest railroad (3-4 operators, 6-8 locos; absolute maximum) was within a complete NCE system's capability. "They (the NCE components) play nicely together", a respected groups.io contributor once wrote! :)
I am willing to use a component (accessory decoder) of any manufacturer.

NOTE, latest news: a kind member of the group did have a Switch 8 available so my immediate crisis is resolved but the issue of NCE component availability remains serious. It is my understanding they are working full-time making the Power Cab and remain limited by chip availability for their other products. 

--
Jim Donahue
Old friend of the Battenkill RR/G&J/D&H



--

Alexander Wood

Hartford-New Haven, CT

Modeling the modern era freelanced G&W Connecticut Northern in HO

Digikeijs DR5000 - JMRI - ProtoThrottle - TCS UWT-100 - TCS UWT-50p - Digitrax Simplex


Re: Walthers Cornerstone 90' Turntable DCC Wiring issue

Vincent P. Chianese
 

Don’t really know much about this but why not try the effected engine on a test track not any pf the ones associated with the turntable or bridge.

 

If that loco works on a test track then you problem is within the turntable install.  If it doesn’t work on a test track then you at least know it is faulty.  Now comes a real problem is it faulty due to it’s contact with the turntable or some other reason?

 

My point is if you keep putting locos on the turn table and it is causing the problems in the loco you will soon run out of locos that work.

 

Vinny

919.368.2659

 

From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> On Behalf Of Tom Grassi via groups.io
Sent: Friday, May 6, 2022 11:46 AM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Walthers Cornerstone 90' Turntable DCC Wiring issue

 

Hello ALL,

I removed the base from the layout and this time I marked the NO TRACK ZONES. and Home Base on the Lip of the base.

Now I know where they are when it is placed on the layout.

I reset the turntable and tested main line to bridge still had a problem.

Put the engine on the bridge directly and still no commands to the engine.

So I tried another engine and that worked.   But the commands to the engine are delayed    

Do not understand why the engine with the keep alive had a problem on the turntable  maybe the decoder ?

I am going to setup the other service tracks and try difference engines see how they perform

Any ideas or suggestions?




--
Tom Grassi
trgrassijr@...

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