Date   

Re: Auto reverse area “dead”

Blair
 

"3 power districts run through a PM42.  #1 run perfectly and is all I can use.  #2 shorts out as soon as it’s connected to the PM42. I’ve been trying to find where for 4 weeks. #3 doesn’t short until my engine gets to the switch.  I have isolated each auto reverse section and run power to sections through 3 separate psx-ar’s.  All switches are frog juiced.  I’ve made sure drops, juicers, and auto reversers stay in their respective bus lines and don’t cross to another power district. Each juicer and psx- 42 was run through the instructions test. I use NCE power pro system. All power districts are isolated (dashed lines.)  I can’t think of anything unless I’ve put the isolations for the auto reverse sections in the wrong places.

Actually, if it's wired as depicted there's problems, for sure.   Follow the rightmost track on the left side as it turns to the right near the top.  At the turnout, the + changes sides on that track without any isolation.  If wired that way, yes, district 2 will have a dead short.

The stretch of track from the turnout on the left of the center peninsula that runs to the turnout in the lower section of PD3 is wired with the wrong polarity.

As I see it the gapping is okay as is, but the wiring as shown is a problem.  If you distill the drawing to it's relevant elements, it's pretty straightforward.  I'll post that elemental sketch to Charles' folder.  The section that's miswired is depicted in red on my sketch.

Blair

On 12/2/2021 9:50 AM, Don Weigt wrote:
Don't offhand see anything wrong with power district two. But the lower turnout in power district 3 is gapped wrong. Not the + signs are opposite sides of the two tracks coming down to it. Those tracks (above the turnout as drawn) need both rails gapped at the turnout. No gaps are needed in the single track coming off the bottom of the turnout.

--
Don Weigt
Connecticut


Re: Auto reverse area “dead”

Don Weigt
 

Don't offhand see anything wrong with power district two. But the lower turnout in power district 3 is gapped wrong. Not the + signs are opposite sides of the two tracks coming down to it. Those tracks (above the turnout as drawn) need both rails gapped at the turnout. No gaps are needed in the single track coming off the bottom of the turnout.

--
Don Weigt
Connecticut


Re: Auto reverse area “dead”

Charles Cauble
 

Finally got diagram up.  3 power districts run through a PM42.  #1 run perfectly and is all I can use.  #2 shorts out as soon as it’s connected to the PM42. I’ve been trying to find where for 4 weeks. #3 doesn’t short until my engine gets to the switch.  I have isolated each auto reverse section and run power to sections through 3 separate psx-ar’s.  All switches are frog juiced.  I’ve made sure drops, juicers, and auto reversers stay in their respective bus lines and don’t cross to another power district. Each juicer and psx- 42 was run through the instructions test. I use NCE power pro system. All power districts are isolated (dashed lines.)  I can’t think of anything unless I’ve put the isolations for the auto reverse sections in the wrong places. I’ve disconnected the 3 districts and tried each district alone but no change. Hope someone sees something wrong or has ideas. Thank y’all for looking at my diagram.  I retired 2 years ago, built me a train room in my walk-in attic and spend as much time in there as I want. It took a while to get all the track down because I had to build inclines, declines, bridges, trestles etc for the track work. I can’t do much more landscaping until I get the wiring figured out. 


Photo 72D93B91-FE5C-4885-8DEC-A60889B1BD50.jpeg uploaded #photo-notice

w4dccqa@groups.io Notification <noreply@...>
 

The following photos have been uploaded to the Charles updated layout album of the w4dccqa@groups.io group.

By: Charles Cauble <drbeetlebaum@...>


Re: Auto reverse area “dead”

D B
 

Oops!   Missed “view/reply online”.  Not very tech savvy — literalist.  
But when you go there you first need to hit the “menu” (3 parallel horizontal lines) icon. That yields a list including photos and files. 
Learning experience and valuable knowledge. 
Bill D
N&W Steam Only


On Dec 1, 2021, at 9:23 AM, D B via groups.io <1932mgj2@...> wrote:

Blair,
Is the “reply online” link to which you refer, the “reply to group” link?
Thank you for the info. how to post. 
Bill D
N&W Steam Only


On Dec 1, 2021, at 8:44 AM, Blair <smithbr@...> wrote:



Charles,

Did you get it posted?  If not, click on the "reply online" link below, which should take you to the groups' webpage on the groups.io site.  On the left hand side, you'll see links for a photos area, and a files area.  If your plan is now a .jpg file, you should post it in the photos area; if it's a PDF, it should go in the files area.

Blair

On 2021-11-29 13:01, Charles Cauble wrote:
I've completed all the track.  redrawn it so someone can check the wiring but
 I have forgotten how to get the photo up loaded to the album


Re: Auto reverse area “dead”

D B
 

Blair,
Is the “reply online” link to which you refer, the “reply to group” link?
Thank you for the info. how to post. 
Bill D
N&W Steam Only


On Dec 1, 2021, at 8:44 AM, Blair <smithbr@...> wrote:



Charles,

Did you get it posted?  If not, click on the "reply online" link below, which should take you to the groups' webpage on the groups.io site.  On the left hand side, you'll see links for a photos area, and a files area.  If your plan is now a .jpg file, you should post it in the photos area; if it's a PDF, it should go in the files area.

Blair

On 2021-11-29 13:01, Charles Cauble wrote:
I've completed all the track.  redrawn it so someone can check the wiring but
 I have forgotten how to get the photo up loaded to the album


Re: Auto reverse area “dead”

Blair
 

Charles,

Did you get it posted?  If not, click on the "reply online" link below, which should take you to the groups' webpage on the groups.io site.  On the left hand side, you'll see links for a photos area, and a files area.  If your plan is now a .jpg file, you should post it in the photos area; if it's a PDF, it should go in the files area.

Blair

On 2021-11-29 13:01, Charles Cauble wrote:
I've completed all the track.  redrawn it so someone can check the wiring but
 I have forgotten how to get the photo up loaded to the album


Re: Main Bus Wiring - Thread from Digitrax List

Steve Hubbard
 

Correction:  the connectors are 2 in 4 out and 2 in 6 out.


Re: Main Bus Wiring - Thread from Digitrax List

Blair
 

Whups, not so fast.  They were $12 CDN for 10 pcs two years ago including shipping.  Now, it's $17.60 to get 10 here.  So it's approaching break even based on exchange rate, if shipping from Dick to me were free.  Not.  Still, it's closer.

But at $1.76 to splice both bus wires and attach two feeder pairs, or four if you double them up, it's not bad.  Especially since it can be opened for debugging.

Blair


Re: Main Bus Wiring - Thread from Digitrax List

Blair
 

Thanks, Tim.  Been quite a while since I browsed his site.  Still,  the selection and price at Ali is unbeatable - by the time I order from Dick in USD, and pay shipping, etc. to me here in Canada, I'd be paying more than double what I'd pay for them buying from Ali direct, including shipping. All depends on where you live.

Regards

Blair

On 11/30/2021 4:43 PM, Tim wrote:
Dick Bronson used those on our recent rebuild of the model railroad club main yard. He has the 2 in-4 out and 2-in 6 out available on his web page, RR-CirKits, Inc. Home Page

Tim Rumph
Lancaster, SC


Re: Main Bus Wiring - Thread from Digitrax List

Tim
 

Dick Bronson used those on our recent rebuild of the model railroad club main yard. He has the 2 in-4 out and 2-in 6 out available on his web page, RR-CirKits, Inc. Home Page

Tim Rumph
Lancaster, SC


Re: Main Bus Wiring - Thread from Digitrax List

PennsyNut
 

I just saw this thread. When I went to aliexpress, they look like WAGO. So, I would only ask "which is cheaper"?
Morgan Bilbo, DCC since 8/18. Model PRR 1952.


Re: Main Bus Wiring - Thread from Digitrax List

Steve Hubbard
 

I am currently using them and purchased them from Amazon.  They offer both 2 in 2 out and 2 in 3 out.  I have tried multiple styles and they all work however the recent box I bought (Gkeemars) work and mount the best. They seem to be better made also.  I use them on Block sub-Bus's where I know I will be using CT's for monitoring as it's easy to disconnect a wire to slip them on.  For mains to sub-bus's I use the 3M suitcase style with spade connectors. Maks it easy to disconnect for troubleshooting.


Re: Auto reverse area “dead”

Charles Cauble
 

I've completed all the track.  redrawn it so someone can check the wiring but
 I have forgotten how to get the photo up loaded to the album


Re: DCC for Bachmann Spectrum

PAUL HART
 

Hi Paul,

I use the Massoth system. But if I was doing it all over I would use the NCE system with wireless controler. I have one for an N scale door layout I am working on in the winter since G scale is a summer sport. LOL 
It is very easy to program 4 digit addresses with the NCE not with the Massoth plus it is too expensive. You live and learn.

If you go with the Phoenix system buy the computer interface and download their program also very easy to use and you can change the sounds with it.

If you have any questions feel free to email me.

Good luck!

Paul Hart


-----Original Message-----
From: PAUL POWERS <goldfinch01@...>
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Sent: Sun, Nov 28, 2021 9:39 pm
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] DCC for Bachmann Spectrum

Hi Paul,
Thanks so much, I will followup with the SM-18 as it looks like it simply plugs in.
I would also like to know what you would recommend for a DCC controller with throttle.
Paul Powers


Main Bus Wiring - Thread from Digitrax List

Blair
 

Hello, All

This came up on the Digitrax list.  I thought this might be of interest, and certainly more on-topic, here.  For those who don't wish to solder every connection on the layout, it's often necessary to choose a connector, or connector system.  Recently, I've become aware of the "lever-nut" connector systems.  I believe they were pioneered by Wago, but there's lots of options out there now.  Here's a few, from AliExpress.

The following are links to AliExpress web pages; sometimes, you have to select a product variant to see exactly what I'm referring to. You may have to cut and paste carefully into your browser.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001280222373.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.4eb53046oqO5bY&algo_pvid=4e17d467-b917-46d0-a03f-aaf3c08ec9f5&algo_exp_id=4e17d467-b917-46d0-a03f-aaf3c08ec9f5-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000015562805710%22%7D

This one looks even better - one in one out, four taps:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002566419858.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.2f87109cDzeMxD&algo_pvid=3cf600dd-2779-4ca8-9bea-1df4c6a50c01&algo_exp_id=3cf600dd-2779-4ca8-9bea-1df4c6a50c01-42&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000021177940358%22%7D

They also have these products, which solve the tap problem for two-wire busses simultaneously; best I could find was two in, two out, plus two taps each:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002187212410.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.2f87109cDzeMxD&algo_pvid=f2deae7e-1d79-4448-86ed-41605c50572d&algo_exp_id=f2deae7e-1d79-4448-86ed-41605c50572d-32&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000018996631528%22%7D

(at that link, select colour option VSE2-4 or VSE2-6)

And, here's a very nice option which includes mounting ears:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000449013640.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000060.3.eff110649Q1bCF&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.169870.0&scm_id=1007.13339.169870.0&scm-url=1007.13339.169870.0&pvid=1bc384cd-0160-4d6b-835d-8f566d26ff54&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller,scm-url:1007.13339.169870.0,pvid:1bc384cd-0160-4d6b-835d-8f566d26ff54,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238113%231998&&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sceneId%22:%223339%22,%22sku_id%22:%2210000001836473394%22%7D


And choose colour "MULTI" - it was fourth option from the left.  I have no idea how hard it is for you to access these products in the USA.

These products have specifications that I think are "optimistic", but since they rate them at 32A 250VAC, I figure my 3A booster runs at 15Vpp should be okay.

Usually, different handle colours denote separate circuits, so I would expect, for example, colour 2-2 would be a simple inline splice for 2 bus wires, whereas six orange handles, whether arranged in 2 sets of 3, or one set of 6, would be all one circuit.

Blair


Re: DCC for Bachmann Spectrum

PAUL POWERS
 

Hi Paul,
Thanks so much, I will followup with the SM-18 as it looks like it simply plugs in.
I would also like to know what you would recommend for a DCC controller with throttle.
Paul Powers


Photo XOVR 1 AR1 .jpg uploaded #photo-notice

w4dccqa@groups.io Notification <noreply@...>
 

The following photos have been uploaded to the CROSSOVER AUTO REVERSE album of the w4dccqa@groups.io group.

By: Lawrence Varady <mrmrsv5049@...>


Re: DCC for Bachmann Spectrum

PAUL HART
 

I just installed the Phoenix Sounds SM-18 decoder in that engine. It could not be any easier. It took 10 minutes to install DCC and sound in the engine. You lift out the coal load from the tender remove the analog plug, plug the SM-18 in where the analog was it only goes one way. Then plug in the fan and open the smoke box door and throw all the switches to DCC and your done. I recommend downloading and reading the two manuals from Phoenix before you start.
Good luck!
Sent from my iPhone Psr


DCC for Bachmann Spectrum

PAUL POWERS
 

Hello,
I've purchased a new Bachmann C-19 G-Scale DCC wired locomotive.
From what I've read, the loco is DCC plug-n-play wired.
I would like to get advice & options for both the DCC controller & decoder
that would take the minimum amount of wiring.
Thanks in advance - Paul

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