Date   

Re: Power Bus

Allan AE2V
 

The general name for any wire connection device that clamps onto a wire is IDC - Insulation Displacement Connector.

As Keith noted, the ones that "T" off the wire and have a spade lug connection is a "T-tap."


Re: Power Bus

Keith Elrod
 

Those, if I think I know what you are referring to, are called "T-Taps" and are different from suitcase connectors.


Replacing Bachmann EZ Track Switch Controllers

Bill Ervin
 
Edited

I want to build a new switch control station and don't want to use the black switch control boxes that come with the turnout. Can I replace them with SPDT momentary switches? 
--
W.J. Ervin


Re: Power Bus

Steve Hubbard
 

Ah Ok, I too feel they are a one time use connector.   That is why I am using the suitcase connector's with the built in female spade connection so I can troubleshoot when needed.


Re: Power Bus

Keith Elrod
 

I'm pretty sure what you are referring to is commonly called "suitcase connectors." I agree with Allan ... one-time use only.


Re: Walthers Motorized 130ft Turntable - DCC Wiring

Lee Phillips
 

I have a huge collection of ALL NEW HO engines, track, tunnels, cars, etc.
If anyone is interested, please let me know.
I can send pics of all.
Thanks,
Lee

On Sun, Jan 31, 2021 at 8:52 PM Steve Hubbard via groups.io <cyclefab=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hmmm! I did follow the instructions.  There is a reason Walther's revised the old model to the newer version.  My understanding is because of the repeatability or lack there of.  Please clarify.


Re: Power Bus

Ted Atkinson
 

thx for your input on the terminal strips.  I am considering running approx 4 10'  bus wires using terminal strips rather than one up to 40' continuous strip.  the four lengths with terminal strips (near the main power input) would provide longer term flexibility. Rationale?

Thx again

On Sun, Jan 31, 2021 at 3:11 PM wirefordcc <bigboy@...> wrote:
Hi Ted,

You can use terminal strips.  That is what I do.  As long as you have good, solid connections, you will not experience voltage loss (drop).

I view quick connects as one time use only.  You want a solid connection, known as "gas tight", between the wire and the connector so that the connection does not oxidize over time.  If others have tried reuse and have many years of good service, I hope they chime in.

Allan Gartner
Wiring for DCC


Re: Power Bus

Ted Atkinson
 

also called pvc solderless terminals, instant quick splice, quick cables.  They connect the wires by using pliers to squeeze a metal tab into the two wires.  Can be used with two different wire diameters for sizes specified by mfr.

On Sun, Jan 31, 2021 at 8:55 PM Steve Hubbard via groups.io <cyclefab=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Clarify quick connects?  Are you referring to spade type connectors?


Re: Power Bus

Steve Hubbard
 

Clarify quick connects?  Are you referring to spade type connectors?


Re: Walthers Motorized 130ft Turntable - DCC Wiring

Steve Hubbard
 

Hmmm! I did follow the instructions.  There is a reason Walther's revised the old model to the newer version.  My understanding is because of the repeatability or lack there of.  Please clarify.


Re: Walthers Motorized 130ft Turntable - DCC Wiring

john
 

I found that the problem with both the new and the old Walthers Turn Table is not the programming or the operation. It actually works if you follow the instructions, Unfortunately it is slow and users are impatient, they want fast. The real problem is the programming button being on the face of the controller. Push that button and the turntable moves pretty quick in which ever direction you choose, happy operator. Unfortunately your Turn Table is un-programmed and re-programmed. every time you push the button. It is tedious to re-program.

On Sunday, January 31, 2021, 03:04:07 PM EST, David Buuck via groups.io <dbuuckie@...> wrote:


I agree with you on that with the Walthers turntable programing it sucks their instructions are so vague


On Sunday, January 31, 2021, 01:38:41 p.m. EST, Steve Hubbard via groups.io <cyclefab@...> wrote:


Yeah I agree that the Walthers leaves a little bit to be desired as far as operation go's!  At least the one I had.  Apparently it was an earlier version and the indexing simply sucked.  I picked up this new in the box 130" TT at an estate sale for a 100 bucks and I was ecstatic, well up until I could not get it to repeat.  I had already installed the Bower and was willing to start over with the Walther's , too bad it did not work well !


Re: Power Bus

Allan AE2V
 

Hi Ted,

You can use terminal strips.  That is what I do.  As long as you have good, solid connections, you will not experience voltage loss (drop).

I view quick connects as one time use only.  You want a solid connection, known as "gas tight", between the wire and the connector so that the connection does not oxidize over time.  If others have tried reuse and have many years of good service, I hope they chime in.

Allan Gartner
Wiring for DCC


Re: Walthers Motorized 130ft Turntable - DCC Wiring

David Buuck <dbuuckie@...>
 

I agree with you on that with the Walthers turntable programing it sucks their instructions are so vague


On Sunday, January 31, 2021, 01:38:41 p.m. EST, Steve Hubbard via groups.io <cyclefab@...> wrote:


Yeah I agree that the Walthers leaves a little bit to be desired as far as operation go's!  At least the one I had.  Apparently it was an earlier version and the indexing simply sucked.  I picked up this new in the box 130" TT at an estate sale for a 100 bucks and I was ecstatic, well up until I could not get it to repeat.  I had already installed the Bower and was willing to start over with the Walther's , too bad it did not work well !


Power Bus

Ted Atkinson
 

Am going to upgrade the bus wire to 14 gauge from 16 gauge. Two questions: 

1. considering using terminal strips to make the bus runs even shorter, but wondered how much voltage loss might be experienced? Thoughts?
2.  also reconsidering recycling some quick connects. Bad idea?

Thx in advance. Ted


Re: Walthers Motorized 130ft Turntable - DCC Wiring

Steve Hubbard
 

Yeah I agree that the Walthers leaves a little bit to be desired as far as operation go's!  At least the one I had.  Apparently it was an earlier version and the indexing simply sucked.  I picked up this new in the box 130" TT at an estate sale for a 100 bucks and I was ecstatic, well up until I could not get it to repeat.  I had already installed the Bower and was willing to start over with the Walther's , too bad it did not work well !


Re: Walthers Motorized 130ft Turntable - DCC Wiring

monty cunningham
 

I have Walthers 90 ft. turntable.  It has wipers to pick up current for the track.  I used one of those little boards that will switch the direction of the current (in about a nano second) to prevent a short.  I used a non sound decoder (from a Bachmann 2-8-0 that I upgraded to sound) to power the turntable motor.  I just assign a number, just like it were a locomotive, to the turntable. 
There is no indexing so you have to be close to the turntable to visually align the turntable.  This way everything (turntable track and turntable motor) is wired directly to the track bus.  For me it works just fine.
Monty


Re: Yard track wiring - DCC

Wil Davis
 

The simple solution would be to use a double pole, double throw toggle.  There are three contacts on each side, connect the incoming track power to the bottom contact on one side and the center to the track you want to power.  That way when the toggle is in the up position the track is energized.  On the other three contacts connect the center contact to DC minus power to the center and connect the short lead of the red and green LEDs to the upper and lower contacts.  In the example above if you want green when power is connected to the track, connect the short lead of the green LED to the bottom contact, so that it will illuminate when the track is energized the green LED will be illuminated, and connect the red LED to the upper contact.  The other two leads on the LEDs can be tied together and connected to plus DC power. Make sure you attached at least a 470 ohm resistor to one lead of each LED, otherwise they will be miniature flashbulbs, unless you are using a very low voltage.  

I have to go do my chores, but if you have any questions email me direct and I can help you with this.  I have wired many of these for a friends layout and others.  I am not the guy for LCC, but I have a fair amount of experience with DC and DCC layout wiring.

Wil Davis


Re: Yard inside Reversing Loop for DCC

Bill Ervin
 

You guys are great. Thanks for the input.
--
W.J. Ervin


Re: Yard track wiring - DCC

george hohon3
 

Why use a bi-color LED at all????  One color will do nicely.  When it's "on" the track is powered, and when it's "off" there is obviously no power to the track.

LG
in San Luiis Obispo


From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> on behalf of Tom Anderson <tanderson@...>
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2021 4:29 PM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io>
Subject: [w4dccqa] Yard track wiring - DCC
 
Hello all,
I am adding a 6 track yard to my layout and I would like to be able to individually kill the DCC voltage to each of the tracks with a simple off/on switch mounted on a panel attached to the layout fascia.

Additionally, I would like to have a two color LED (red/green) to indicate the status of the track.

I understand the simple off/on scenario but I don't know what I need to do to add/wire the LED's on the panel.

Electronics is not my thing so any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Tom


Re: Yard track wiring - DCC

Wil Davis
 

The simple solution would be to use a double pole, double throw toggle.  There are three contacts on each side, connect the incoming track power to the bottom contact on one side and the center to the track you want to power.  That way when the toggle is in the up position the track is energized.  On the other three contacts connect the center contact to DC minus power to the center and connect the short lead of the red and green LEDs to the upper and lower contacts.  In the example above if you want green when power is connected to the track, connect the short lead of the green LED to the bottom contact, so that it will illuminate when the track is energized the green LED will be illuminated, and connect the red LED to the upper contact.  The other two leads on the LEDs can be tied together and connected to plus DC power. Make sure you attached at least a 470 ohm resistor to one lead of each LED, otherwise they will be miniature flashbulbs, unless you are using a very low voltage.  

I have to go do my chores, but if you have any questions email me direct and I can help you with this.  I have wired many of these for a friends layout and others.  I am not the guy for LCC, but I have a fair amount of experience with DC and DCC layout wiring.

Wil Davis

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