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Re: Powering Points
Also known as "Music Wire" . "Do it Best" hardware affiliates have the
best prices I have seen and have free shipping to their affiliates. Best Regards, Ken Harstine
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Re: Powering Points
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On 12/16/2019 3:09 PM, Richard
Sutcliffe wrote:
Not likely, note that this is "softened"
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Re: Powering Points
Richard Sutcliffe
Not likely, note that this is "softened"
What is needed is steel wire - and music has some "spring" to it.
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Re: Powering Points
Hi Greg: Is this what you are looking for: https://www.mcmaster.com/6517K66 100 pieces for $11. All straight a foot long. Carl.
On 12/16/2019 8:20 AM, Greg Harter
wrote:
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Re: Powering Points
John Cahill
In case it helps, I get mine from a supplier of parts for R/C aircraft where it is used (I believe) to connect servos to control surfaces. John
On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 1:20 PM Greg Harter <greg1462@...> wrote:
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Re: Powering Points
RONALD ST.LAURENT
Perry, You can shop piano wire at local hardware stores. Typically made by K&S and sold 5 to a pack in 36 inch lengths. Be sure to use a hard wire cutter as this wire will surely ruin your track cutting tool. Ron
On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 9:07 AM Perry A Pollino <texasperry@...> wrote:
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Re: Powering Points
Perry A Pollino
In addition the .032 wire I also add the brass tube. In some cases my Tortoise is 2" below the turnout. The three turnouts were in my staging and the first ones I installed. I did not occur to me until I crawled under the layout to see if I could drill and add a feeder wire for the points. I had honestly thought I had changed them all out. I am not sure if the tortoise remote machines will give me a problem. I have about 6 of those. Since I do not have a LHS I typically by all my hobby needs on line. Yes I have had trouble finding the .032 wire in stock anyhow. I stocked up when I did find it. Amazon usually has a vendor. I am almost out. Perry
On Monday, December 16, 2019, 07:20:30 AM CST, Greg Harter <greg1462@...> wrote:
Our club changes out all the .025" wire with .032' wire. makes a big difference.Getting harder to find this stuff!!!!!!
Greg Harter
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Re: Powering Points
Greg Harter
Our club changes out all the .025" wire with .032' wire. makes a big difference.Getting harder to find this stuff!!!!!! Greg Harter
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Re: Powering Points
Perry A Pollino
Folks
Thanks for the replies. I thought I would follow up and let you know what I discovered. The turnouts I powered in my first power district, were also the first turnouts I installed. In doing so I had not upgraded the piano wire driving the switch points. Although it was only put through 1/2 inch of plywood and 1/4 inch of foam plus cork roadbed it was not putting enough pressure on the points. Cleaning the points and changing that wire seems to have remedied the problem of making good contact. Time will tell. I am not sure what will happen with the 1/2 dozen or so remote machines I have in place. I will find out as I power those districts. Perry
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Wiring crossing gates for DCC
crosswire144@...
I have an older Bachmann #1443 crossing gate with flashing lights and bell. It currently uses under track pressure switches for activation. Has anyone tried to convert this type of gate to DCC?
Thanks, Crosswire
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Re: Powering Points
PennsyNut <pennsynut@...>
And in all fairness and honesty, that's all I was trying help with. In my experience, the usually problem with contact between point and closure is "clean". And that is why Went Off Topic! I was not trying to hijack the thread nor to rehash old stuff. I personally don't like wiring. With the Insulfrog, I don't need to. With the PECO snap action, that is usually enough to keep electricity flowing. IF CLEAN. So if one chooses to remove the snap, then they must find a solution. And the solutions I've ever seen for Electrofrog is with wiring. I don't wire turnouts, and with the web site for "wirefordcc" having several excellent wiring instructions. So please forgive me if I stepped on someones toes = Causing a rehash on what to clean with, etc. Also, I find graphite helps with electrical continuity. Again, my apologies!
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC
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Re: DCC Bus distribution and snubbers question
emrldsky
This subject was discussed quite extensively in earlier threads. I bet if you search for snubbers, you will find a bunch of stuff.
Peace, Mike G,
On 12/11/2019 10:43 AM, Blair &
Rasa wrote:
Members
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Re: DCC Bus distribution and snubbers question
Blair
Members
This thread was allowed to die out with no one even asking for the DCC plan. Many walk-aways, without answering questions I and others asked about their responses. Recent threads by others have ended similarly. I have to ask, why do we bother? Apparently, it's sufficient to drop in with a comment, a la facebook, but not bother with a deep technical discussion, especially if asked to provide facts and reasons, not just trolling. Regards to all, but not expecting much Blair
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Re: Powering Points
Allan AE2V
All,
Perry still has his question out there about powering points for his N-scale Peco code 55 Electrofrog turnouts. If anyone can help Perry, please do so. Note: This topic derailed and got back to track cleaning. This happens occasionally. If there is a need to change topics, please create a new topic rather than derail the old one. If a topic, like track cleaning, was recently discussed and needs to be discussed again, it just makes sense to refer to the previous discussion. Thank you Allan Gartner Wiring for DCC
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Re: Powering Points
Allan AE2V
All,
There was a great discussion on this topic a few months ago. The thread is titled, Cleaners and Lubricants. Please refer to it. Do not rehash it now. Thank you Allan Gartner Wiring for DCC
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Re: Powering Points and graphite
Allan AE2V
With the issue of snake coming up again, this thread has gone full circle with this nearly identical discussion from a few months ago. This topic is now closed and all further posts will be deleted.
Thank you Allan Gartner Wiring For DCC
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Re: Powering Points
PennsyNut <pennsynut@...>
With Kerosene, there's the smell. I've used acetone now for over a year. Yes, it's not good on plastic. But I carefully wipe the rails, top and inside edge. And turnout points. CAREFULLY! There's noting inherently wrong with this. It's like anything else in the hobby. Use your common sense and don't do something stupid. And I'm sorry, this is not snake oil. It is what I do and it works for me. The graphite is what keeps the trains running for quite a while before re-coating with graphite. The actual cleaning is not required very often. Assuming you operate fairly often. If you leave a layout unused for weeks, you definitely need to clean. I'm not stepping anyone's toes and am not trying to sell anything. As for the snap: I only mentioned that it does help to keep electrical continuity. If you don't like it because of "slow motion", then remove it. That's your choice. I apologize and respectfully ask you to stop stomping on me. And I also apologize to Allan Gartner if I am being inappropriate. This forum is to help and that's all I'm trying to do.
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC
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Re: Powering Points and graphite
PennsyNut <pennsynut@...>
Brass track and DCC don't mix too well. And I know many have disagreed with me about acetone. But it cleans better than alcohol. Just be super careful you don't get it on the ties. Wipe the rail tops and inside edges carefully. Dries almost immediately. Then wipe the graphite about 3", leave a 6" space and repeat. Then, take a car or two and roll them to spread the graphite. That should get you "up and running". After that, the graphite can be applied again after a few operations. Not more than once a week. That is what I do with nickel silver. Yes, acetone can melt plastic. But used sparingly on brass rail will be OK. So, for the rest of you, please don't keep jumping on me about acetone. It's what I use with PECO track and have no problem - because I keep it off the ties. It's called "careful". And with DCC is my way of keeping the trains running.
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC
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Re: Powering Points and graphite
crosswire144@...
My track is brass and for years the car wheels have collected a "brassy" crud on the running surface that has to be scraped off periodically. The crud can get thick enough to increase derailing. Does the graphite you use build up?
John Gross, newbe also
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Re: Powering Points
Donald Scharenbroch
I have heard so many different recommendations on track cleaning & track maintenance that it is mind boggling. I think the only recommendation I have not heard is SNAKE OIL.
Here is an article that everyone should read at least twice before you tell me that I am an idiot: https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/mrhpub.com/2019-05-may/online/index.html?page=9 Clean your track with KEROSENE. When done cleaning, make sure that there is a VERY VERY light film of kerosene left on the rails. Same with your rolling stock.
I have heard of layouts running 2 years before a light cleaning is required. Kerosene is available at Home Depot, Lowes and some small hardware stores.
Don
From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> On Behalf Of wirefordcc
Acetone will melt plastic. If you use Acetone, you need to be sure you keep it off the plastic or wash it off.
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