Date   
Re: Current through the soldering iron tip

Michael Rozeboom
 

On 2019-06-13 9:33 a.m., JBJudy wrote:
I am looking for clarification as I have this Weller unit & it is NOT MARKED ESD SAFE!


Then it is not.  ESD safe units are identified with the ESD safe symbols.  Older units have the three prong plug, and they are not ESD safe.



--




Michael Rozeboom



Re: Power Boosters

Mark Gurries
 


On Jun 13, 2019, at 3:55 AM, vincent marino <vmarino2009@...> wrote:

Theorectically you should be able to because all up to date manufacturers use national standards.

No one is following the DCC standards in US.  No one has changed the design of their boosters since they were designed and release well before  the standard came out a long time later.


However if the boosters you're using have any age and considering how tempimental DCC is, I would recommend single source manufacturer for a new layout. Think about it, if you tracking down a problem you're not going to know if it's a short or a manufacturer conflict. I like to say "never enough time (or money) to do it right always enough time to do it over".

On Wed, Jun 12, 2019, 11:06 PM <obeeone@...> wrote:
Can anyone help me with this question? I'm re-entering the train scene but I'm asking if I am able to "mix-n-match" brands of power boosters. In other words, say I have an NCE DCC system. Can I add a Bachmann or Digitrax or any other brand as a power booster, or must the power booster be of the same brand system? Can I mix them? Thanx.



Best Regards,

Mark Gurries
Electrical Engineer
DCC Website & NMRA DCC Clinics: www.markgurries.com



Re: Power Boosters

Jay
 

Hi!
This may fit the bill.
It works with several manufacturers Command Stations.
It is available in the US from Iron Planet Hobbies.
Here is the MFG website:
https://www.digikeijs.com/en/dr5033-adj-dcc-booster-3-amps.html

Jay

Re: Power Boosters

Chuck
 

You might also take a look at this for a simple add on booster.

http://www.tamvalleydepot.com/products/dccbooster.html

Chuck Filson

On 2019-06-12 8:35 p.m., obeeone@... wrote:
Can anyone help me with this question? I'm re-entering the train scene
but I'm asking if I am able to "mix-n-match" brands of power boosters.
In other words, say I have an NCE DCC system. Can I add a Bachmann or
Digitrax or any other brand as a power booster, or must the power
booster be of the same brand system? Can I mix them? Thanx.
_._,_._,_
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Re: Current through the soldering iron tip

 

The Weller WES D51  ESD  Is what I use. My soldering station previous was a Weller EC2000, but finally gave up after 30 years.


Re: Current through the soldering iron tip

Richard Gagnon <richg_1998@...>
 

I checked with my meter fifteen years ago. I check periodically. I worked for NASA for fourteen years at Wallops Flight Faciliy. I kknow the details.
Good enough for me.



On Tuesday, June 11, 2019, 11:55 AM, rg <richg_1998@...> wrote:

That came a a surprise to me as my station has the tree prong plug. Must be the internal wiring. I never did see any voltage issue though.

Rich


Re: Power Boosters

Obeeone
 

Thank you, Chuck. That was extremely helpful.
 
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2019 at 9:03 PM
From: "Chuck" <railfan@...>
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Power Boosters
You might also take a look at this for a simple add on booster.

http://www.tamvalleydepot.com/products/dccbooster.html

Chuck Filson

On 2019-06-12 8:35 p.m., obeeone@... wrote:
> Can anyone help me with this question? I'm re-entering the train scene
> but I'm asking if I am able to "mix-n-match" brands of power boosters.
> In other words, say I have an NCE DCC system. Can I add a Bachmann or
> Digitrax or any other brand as a power booster, or must the power
> booster be of the same brand system? Can I mix them? Thanx.
> _._,_._,_
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------



 

Re: DCC Power Boosters - Mix or Match? >>> Match

Mark Cartwright
 

Match
So here is what I am doing now.....
Cause I am not Steve Wozniak and can't put odd components together for Pong.
https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/esu-50010-ecosboost-4-amp-ext-booster-mm-dcc-sx-m4-set-including-power-supply-120-240v-europe-and-us-manual-in-german-english/?ne_ppc_id=1079742151&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3ZDTgPbm4gIVkcBkCh0hZAbcEAQYASABEgLWZvD_BwE
===
Here is a video...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MaAsl5oO7v8

Sorry about it being in German...but after 5 years of High School and University German....I finally have a use for all those Klasses.
Not sure you are getting this..
Or got turned off to the Lese-Sprache...
Just listen to the music and watch..
====> Yes, you can adjust the variables at the Command Station and then test these variables with specific trains on your layout.
Need more power? ....
Yes, Matched ESU Boosters are Plug n Play...
Not bad...I felt a rant coming on but instead decided to skip it.
:)) Mark

Re: Older Shinohara Turnouts

Brian Eiland
 

Hi George Galyon,
You seem to be a rather expert on these Shinohara crossovers, so I thought I would double check with you.

I have 2 older style DOUBLE crossovers, and 4 older style SINGLE crossovers,....all of them have the 'double crossbar features'.

I had sought to utilize one of the DOUBLES at a particular spot on my layout,...and I had read your excellent PDF on Allan's DCC site about making this turnout work in DCC mode WITHOUT significant modifications.

I have now found that I have room to install 2 in-line SINGLE crossovers instead of the DOUBLE. I believe it would be safer/less troublesome down the road if I utilized this 'singles' configuration rather than the 'double'?

Are there modifications needed on these singles to use in DCC?...or modifications that might be recommended??

https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/36467?page=3#comment-392051

Regards, Brian

Wiring For DCC Website Update

wirefordcc
 

Several new topics have been added to the Wiring for DCC website.  You can find them in the What's New section at: http://www.wiringfordcc.com/wirefordcc_toc.htm#a1

The new topics are:
1.  DCC safe soldering equipment
2.  Soldering to Micro Engineering frogs by James Exler
3.  Alternatives to tail light bulbs

More on the way!

Allan Gartner
Wiring For DCC

Reverse Loop Question

Wayne Swearingen
 

Looking at the photo's there should almost be a groups page dedicated to reverse loops! 

We're in the process of converting to DCC and in deliberations on how best to wire/block the loops we have. There is only one mainline running around the loop but there are staging tracks off of it. I was planning to detect occupancy on the mainline but not the staging. If we do detect staging the BDL168 will work with one zone-section setup for auto reverse, I'll have three sets of tracks to detect and the fourth can just die or possibly be used elsewhere within the loop if need be, may splitting the mainline into two detected zones. If we just do the mainline I'll need to purchase a BXPA1 unit to detect it as one. 

What do the experts here say as far as gapping & setting up the reverse loop? 

https://groups.io/g/w4dccqa/album?id=92512

Re: Reverse Loop Question

Don Vollrath
 

If your photo is accurate, there are 3 relatively independent reversing loops. The Red outside loop and each of the 2 Green indicated loops. AND a possible wye toward the center (the track sketch paths are not perfectly clear.) The yellow marking for planned track gaps would end up with the green reversing loops coupled inside the red loop. I would move the gaps for the Red outside loop to be so that only that track loop is isolated. Then place other gaps to isolate each of the other green loops from each other where they break apart from the turnout exits. This move would best utilize 3  independent A-R units, each powered directly from the mainline feeder bus. 2 separate (green) loops may not be necessary depending on the actual length and planned movement restriction of trains on those staging tracks. 
In this manner you can add independent track occupancy detection on leads to these 3 areas after each of the A-R units if desired.

The wye in the center also needs to be carefully looked at for reversing issues. It creates a very short reversing area where a loco or train can enter from the main line, go through the wye and return to the mainline in the opposite direction. ie - a 4th reversing loop independent of all others. This in itself may require yet another A-R unit with track gaps placed to prevent one A-R area from being adjacent to another. Knowing or restricting train length through this path will be paramount for success 

Can you quantify any restricted movements for future trains at this end of the layout?

DonV 

Peco SL-99 3 Way Turnout

Dennis DeGroff
 

Hey everyone.  New to the group and wiring my first layout in DCC.  In my yard district, I have wired two Peco SL-99 3 way turnouts with the toe end opposite each other and joining from the right side of one to the right side of the other.  I installed the units with conductive rail joiners on each of the three legs exiting both units and soldered the joiners only on the toe end of the turnouts.  I have been having a problem with a locomotive shorting out (using PM42 Digitrax for power management) when going from one SL-99 to the other SL-99, but no problems going to either of the other two legs of the turnout.  Both the turnouts are on the same power district.  In reviewing the Peco information on the SL-99 packaging, I noticed that for DCC operations, they suggest placing insulated rail joiners on the inside 4 legs.  Could this be part of my problem?  If so, can I cut an gap between the sections to basically isolate the tracks without the need for the insulated joiners?  I have checked the wiring below the layout and also with the 9v buzzer check when the wiring is disconnected from the PM42 and all checks out good.  The loco is a Walthers Proto 2000.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  Dennis DeGroff, Fort Wayne, IN

Re: Peco SL-99 3 Way Turnout

Nick Ostrosky
 

I have two of these as well but not in a reversing loop.  You are correct that Peco recommends insulating the four inside legs, which I did, and have experienced no problems in operation.  I would think this would hold true regardless of the reversing section because of left/right rail issues and how Peco recommends wiring the turnout to power those rails.  As to simply cutting gaps, yes, you could, but that could invite arcing, alignment, or other issues that may be less than optimal.  Nick your nearby neighbor in Kalamazoo, MI

Re: Peco SL-99 3 Way Turnout

Dennis DeGroff
 

Hey Nick.  Thanks for the response.  My units are not in a reversing loop, as they just butt up to each other in the yard.  Since I have not added ballast yet, I am going to pull up the track and turnouts so that I can add the insulated rail joiners as Peco recommends.  Hopefully that will take care of the issue.

Best Regards, Dennis.

Wiring For DCC Update

wirefordcc
 

I have added a topic on the Peco 3-Way turnouts to my website.  You can get to it, along with other recent topics, in the What's New section of my website at:

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/wirefordcc_toc.htm#a1

Spoiler alert:  This turnout appears to be only offered in code 100.

Allan Gartner
Wiring For DCC

Re: Wiring For DCC Update

Dale Gloer
 

There is also a 3 way turnout in Peco code 75 electrofrog style.  However, unlike the code 100 ones it is an asymmetric design.  Therefore they can be wired just like one would do for 2 turnouts connected together and it does not require care in order of changing point positions since the points do not overlap.

Dale Gloer

Re: Wiring For DCC Update

wirefordcc
 

Thanks, Dale, I’ll try to learn more about it.

 

Allan

 

 

From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> On Behalf Of Dale Gloer
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2019 10:37 AM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Wiring For DCC Update

 

There is also a 3 way turnout in Peco code 75 electrofrog style.  However, unlike the code 100 ones it is an asymmetric design.  Therefore they can be wired just like one would do for 2 turnouts connected together and it does not require care in order of changing point positions since the points do not overlap.

Dale Gloer

QSI Decoder Wiring Information

Wil Davis
 

My friend has an early BLI PRR M1 that has a QSI decoder.  I am unable to read the decoder, we have tried resetting the decoder with no luck.  All it will do is sit on the track and make idle steam engine sounds.  None of the functions work, headlight, bell etc.  Nor does it move.  He has asked me to replace the decoder with a current steam sound decoder.  I told him I would, if I could do it without taking the engine apart.  The tender has the Decoder that appears to be a "motherboard" that it plugs into.  It connects to to the engine with a six wire double ended female connector.  I have determined that the outside wires are track pickup.  However, I am unable to determine what the other four are other than two obviously go to the motor and two go to the headlight.  I have tried everything I can think of to figure them out without blowing the headlight.  I know I could probably hook a 9v battery to the motor and determine if it works.  However, if I guess wrong and connect it to the headlight I may blow it. I once saw wiring diagrams for some engine/decoders, but am not able to find it. 

Anyone have any idea where i could find this information or know what the middle four wires go to?

Thanks,
Wil

Re: QSI Decoder Wiring Information

Craig Zeni
 

It may be stuck in its "disconnected" or its idle mode.  I can't recall what function button it's on... hopefully he still has the manual that will tell him what to try.

Craig Zeni
Cary, NC
Despatched from my infernal Android


On Mon, Jul 22, 2019, 17:05 Wil Davis <wdavis5069@...> wrote:
My friend has an early BLI PRR M1 that has a QSI decoder.  I am unable to read the decoder, we have tried resetting the decoder with no luck.  All it will do is sit on the track and make idle steam engine sounds.  None of the functions work, headlight, bell etc.  Nor does it move.  He has asked me to replace the decoder with a current steam sound decoder.  I told him I would, if I could do it without taking the engine apart.  The tender has the Decoder that appears to be a "motherboard" that it plugs into.  It connects to to the engine with a six wire double ended female connector.  I have determined that the outside wires are track pickup.  However, I am unable to determine what the other four are other than two obviously go to the motor and two go to the headlight.  I have tried everything I can think of to figure them out without blowing the headlight.  I know I could probably hook a 9v battery to the motor and determine if it works.  However, if I guess wrong and connect it to the headlight I may blow it. I once saw wiring diagrams for some engine/decoders, but am not able to find it. 

Anyone have any idea where i could find this information or know what the middle four wires go to?

Thanks,
Wil