Date   
Re: DCC Meters

PennsyNut
 

IMHO As a modeler, I don't need the accuracy y'all keep talking about. Any device that reads "accurately" is costly. There's no cheap alternative. My free HF meters do everything needed in model railroading. They measure DC & AC volts. Amps, but not for DCC, ohms and continuity. Also the little AA/9v battery test for more than just volts. So if y'all need more, you will have to bite the bullet and spend money. And I have successfully used these HF meters to get the info needed to make sure my layout is running. And make corrections. And I'm not here to point fingers or hurt anyone's feelings. OK, they aren't strictly free, you have to buy something at HF to get the free meter.
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC

Re: DCC Meters

W. Rusty Lane, Jr.
 

Yep.  I have 2 HF meters and they do all that I need.  Sure, they make better meters but ya just cannot beat free!

W Rusty Lane in eastern Tennessee



Jesus said, "I am the way of the Truth and the Life.  No man cometh to the Father, but by me."

Re: DCC Meters

wirefordcc
 

Please wrap up this thread as it has wandered off topic for this DCC Q&A forum.


Thank you

 

Allan Gartner

Wiring For DCC

 

Allan Gartner  WiringForDCC.com 

        

 

Wiring For DCC Update - Rail Anchors

wirefordcc
 

All,

I have recently added more rail anchors to my website.  If you want to refer someone to a specific topic in my website and you see a rail cross section, just click on it.  At the top of your browser the URL (web address) of that topic will appear.  Just copy that into your email or Q&A Forum response.

Allan Gartner
Wiring For DCC

Re: Railroad Drop Bridges

Mark Cartwright
 

They are actually TWO Lionel so called O Scale Bascule Bridges (circa 1998 Chinese Construction) which are set in stanchions (Lionel Provided)
which sit end to end.
So...a Train enters one side of the Bridge...then crosses over to another.
Good Luck with that...I am still working on a precise end to end fit and alignment.
>>> In N Scale this means the two lowering bridges must have a near perfect alignment of less than 1/16th's of an inch.
----
With a bit of whittling to the underside of Dual Track Kato viaduct sections...they can snap over the existing Lionel Three Rail system.
====
With one motor however and gear set...As a single bridge lowers..it tends to skew to one side and wobble a bit.
By adding a Second Gear Motor Assembly, I hope to lower the entire bridge into tighter (less clearance) position.
*Ordered the extra set from Lionel. I will need another.
======
The Twin End to End Bridges will meet in the middle.
Over nothing below them ?
No...I was not able to extend even one bridge a few inches and allow it to rise to a straight up position - 90 degree angle...
So ...No, I am not passing by body through these two bridges.
They as is will only lift to an angle of 45 degrees...More of an affect rather than an effect on my Layout.
I intend to keep them operational by remote control of their motors.
=====
Here is where my initial inspiration came from.
http://www.foundsf.org/index.php?title=3rd_St_Bridge_Then_and_Now

The Lionel Bridge meet nearly the same exact dimensions...when using N Scale Ratios.
The Twin Bridges at 23 inches long each but not the land base ...Can expand across a 36 inch walkway.
That's why there will be two.
=====
When not swung out to connect to the main layout....They are hidden in a cabinet.
Just a Heads Up...I probably already have over 100 hours into this project including re-detailing just one of the Bridges with HO and N Scale parts.
This mixture of purchases has often confused people on exactly which scale I am primarily modeling.
But I assure you...Many items in Model Railroading are not properly sized.
I was somewhat a weird child who carried a Ruler around with him with my name on it.
I "mark" or measure near on anything and everything.
So...Near on Immediately I see N Scale in an O Scale Bridge.
:)) Mark

This is a properly sized O Scale Bridge.
https://eaglewingsironcraft.wordpress.com/tag/o-gauge-vertical-lift-bridge/

Yes taller than a man.
All Lionel Operational O Scale Bridges are more closely aligned to the measurements of N Scale at 1:152 ratio.

Re: Railroad Drop Bridges

wirefordcc
 

This thread is off topic.  Please wrap it up.

Thank you

Allan Gartner
Wiring For DCC

Re: DCC Meters

PennsyNut
 

As I said. This is model railroading. Not rocket science. As for the average, normal model railroader, the cheap HF meters are sufficient to get average readings that help determine voltage loss. I measure both DC and AC volts. As long as they read the same at each end of my layout. And that means the 3 meters can all have different readings, but use one meter at one end and then the other end and if it reads the same, it's OK. Do the same with other meters to be sure. But for "accuracy", I'm not interested. I don't need "accuracy" or expensive meters. This is a hobby for fun. And y'all ruin my fun by insisting that cheap "VOM", which I take it to mean HF, aren't "good enough". Phooey! I'm not here to hurt anyone. I'm not trying to sell HF. I'm only speaking MHO from my experience. If y'all want to spend $80 or more, go ahead. As long as I'm sure my track voltage is consistent from the command station to any track on my layout, I'm happy. This is not to put anyone down. This is just my opinion and experience. Y'all make it sound like "if you don't buy $80 meters, you won't get accurate readings." So what? The time you need to buy a RRamp meter is when you like to spend money for "accuracy". But my sincere point is why? That's like buying a Cadillac instead of a Chevy. They both get you there. And what difference does it make if you get a reading of 11.6 or 15.6? As long as that reading is the same wherever you check.
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC

Re: going from bachmann to peco

PennsyNut
 

PECO is made in the U.K./British. ME is made in the U.S. But I found ME harder to work with. PECO is a quality product that IMHO is the better of what's available here in the U.S. The code 83 is pretty darn good and I like it. As for turnouts. If you don't run 0-4-0 steam engines, and/or all diesel, the Insulfrog is good. The Electrofrog is good too, but requires wiring. Of course, if you use a machine to operate the turnout, that will require wiring. And Electrofrog would be worth using. But if no machines, and you only hand throw, the Insulfrog is easier to install. I use NO wiring whatsoever on my Insulfrogs and point feed. Do check out PECO's web site. They have good info on their turnouts. Also, some YouTube videos are helpful. Go ahead and ask questions. That's what we are all here for. To help.
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC

Rail joiners & PECO

PennsyNut
 

I have a problem with my track. I have PECO code 83 flex, Insulfrog turnouts and code 83 joiners. The joiners are giving me headaches. Not to forget split nails, cut finger tips, etc. I even try putting a joiner on a spare piece of rail to then put onto the track. But those joiners are way too tight. Filing the rails, top, bottom and top of the base - very lightly, just enough to smooth and remove any burrs. Can't seem to figure out how to spread the end of the joiner a bit, just to get it started. The darn things just don't like me. LOL Positive help requested and appreciated.
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC

Wiring the LEDs in a DC wired loco for DCC

dennisedgar7
 

I have a DC loco that has 4 LEDs front and rear. There are two white LEDs and two red LEDs at each end.

When running forward in DC mode the two white LEDS light up and two red LEDs in the rear light up and vice versa.
I would like to install a decoder into the loco but I am not sure how to wire the LEDs so that I get the same functionality.

The LED terminals are not all visible. I fact there are only 4 leads coming from each bank of LEDs.

I am not sure how to up load a diagram to show the existing wiring layout.
Is anyone able to assist me?

Re: Rail joiners & PECO

Bob Macionis
 

I sympathize, and have multiple finger tip scars from those nasty joiners.  Using small pliers designed for this very task will avoid the blood.  But those joiners are too tight!  I have given up using them (except on code 70 track) and now use Atlas universal joiners.  Yes, they’re much bigger, and loose, but they go on easily, and I solder all joints and paint the rails so they look ok.
Bob
 

From: PennsyNut
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2019 11:11 AM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: [w4dccqa] Rail joiners & PECO
 
I have a problem with my track. I have PECO code 83 flex, Insulfrog turnouts and code 83 joiners. The joiners are giving me headaches. Not to forget split nails, cut finger tips, etc. I even try putting a joiner on a spare piece of rail to then put onto the track. But those joiners are way too tight. Filing the rails, top, bottom and top of the base - very lightly, just enough to smooth and remove any burrs. Can't seem to figure out how to spread the end of the joiner a bit, just to get it started. The darn things just don't like me. LOL Positive help requested and appreciated.
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC

Re: Rail joiners & PECO

Kurt Konrath
 

Atlas Model RR co sells a tool specifically for putting on rail joiners.  Cat 150-401.  Many places to get it from. 

Three sided tool for code 100, 83 and I forget the other one. 

Designed to allow you slip joiner on tool point and it opens slightly and gives you a way to push on rail without fingers in the way of sharp items!

Kurt


On May 1, 2019, at 11:05 AM, Bob Macionis <macionis@...> wrote:

I sympathize, and have multiple finger tip scars from those nasty joiners.  Using small pliers designed for this very task will avoid the blood.  But those joiners are too tight!  I have given up using them (except on code 70 track) and now use Atlas universal joiners.  Yes, they’re much bigger, and loose, but they go on easily, and I solder all joints and paint the rails so they look ok.
Bob
 
From: PennsyNut
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2019 11:11 AM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: [w4dccqa] Rail joiners & PECO
 
I have a problem with my track. I have PECO code 83 flex, Insulfrog turnouts and code 83 joiners. The joiners are giving me headaches. Not to forget split nails, cut finger tips, etc. I even try putting a joiner on a spare piece of rail to then put onto the track. But those joiners are way too tight. Filing the rails, top, bottom and top of the base - very lightly, just enough to smooth and remove any burrs. Can't seem to figure out how to spread the end of the joiner a bit, just to get it started. The darn things just don't like me. LOL Positive help requested and appreciated.
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC

Re: Rail joiners & PECO

John Johnston <towboatjohnston@...>
 

I had the same trouble in N with PECO code 55. I slid a joiner all the way onto a 1-inch piece of track, leaving just enough track exposed to accept a new joiner half way on. I locked the whole thing into a singe section of a connector block. (See photo). Works great and allows me to use PECO joiners, which are MUCH better than any other N-scale joiners I have seen. 



John Johnston
(713) 240-1687
Sent from iPhone via gmail

On May 1, 2019, at 3:40 PM, Kurt Konrath via Groups.Io <kurt.konrath@...> wrote:

Atlas Model RR co sells a tool specifically for putting on rail joiners.  Cat 150-401.  Many places to get it from. 

Three sided tool for code 100, 83 and I forget the other one. 

Designed to allow you slip joiner on tool point and it opens slightly and gives you a way to push on rail without fingers in the way of sharp items!

Kurt


On May 1, 2019, at 11:05 AM, Bob Macionis <macionis@...> wrote:

I sympathize, and have multiple finger tip scars from those nasty joiners.  Using small pliers designed for this very task will avoid the blood.  But those joiners are too tight!  I have given up using them (except on code 70 track) and now use Atlas universal joiners.  Yes, they’re much bigger, and loose, but they go on easily, and I solder all joints and paint the rails so they look ok.
Bob
 
From: PennsyNut
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2019 11:11 AM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: [w4dccqa] Rail joiners & PECO
 
I have a problem with my track. I have PECO code 83 flex, Insulfrog turnouts and code 83 joiners. The joiners are giving me headaches. Not to forget split nails, cut finger tips, etc. I even try putting a joiner on a spare piece of rail to then put onto the track. But those joiners are way too tight. Filing the rails, top, bottom and top of the base - very lightly, just enough to smooth and remove any burrs. Can't seem to figure out how to spread the end of the joiner a bit, just to get it started. The darn things just don't like me. LOL Positive help requested and appreciated.
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC

Re: Rail joiners & PECO

John Johnston <towboatjohnston@...>
 

I replied via regular email but photo got stripped out, so I uploaded another photo to the web site.  I can't figure out how to attach it to this email, but it's on the site if you want to look

Re: Rail joiners & PECO

Tom Anderson
 

          I got one of those and it was totally worthless.

 

          Just my .02

 

 

Tom Anderson

 

Business Information Systems, Inc.

P.O. Box 160396

Boiling Springs, SC  29316

 

(864) 621-8607

 

From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> On Behalf Of Kurt Konrath via Groups.Io
Sent: Wednesday, May 1, 2019 3:41 PM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Rail joiners & PECO

 

Atlas Model RR co sells a tool specifically for putting on rail joiners.  Cat 150-401.  Many places to get it from. 

 

Three sided tool for code 100, 83 and I forget the other one. 

 

Designed to allow you slip joiner on tool point and it opens slightly and gives you a way to push on rail without fingers in the way of sharp items!

 

Kurt


On May 1, 2019, at 11:05 AM, Bob Macionis <macionis@...> wrote:

I sympathize, and have multiple finger tip scars from those nasty joiners.  Using small pliers designed for this very task will avoid the blood.  But those joiners are too tight!  I have given up using them (except on code 70 track) and now use Atlas universal joiners.  Yes, they’re much bigger, and loose, but they go on easily, and I solder all joints and paint the rails so they look ok.

Bob

 

From: PennsyNut

Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2019 11:11 AM

Subject: [w4dccqa] Rail joiners & PECO

 

I have a problem with my track. I have PECO code 83 flex, Insulfrog turnouts and code 83 joiners. The joiners are giving me headaches. Not to forget split nails, cut finger tips, etc. I even try putting a joiner on a spare piece of rail to then put onto the track. But those joiners are way too tight. Filing the rails, top, bottom and top of the base - very lightly, just enough to smooth and remove any burrs. Can't seem to figure out how to spread the end of the joiner a bit, just to get it started. The darn things just don't like me. LOL Positive help requested and appreciated.
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC


ExchangeDefender Message Security: Check Authenticity

Re: Rail joiners & PECO

Ron Still
 

Bob, I did exactly what you did. I’m on a blood thinner and every time I would poke myself there was blood everywhere!! Don’t know why they make them so tight.

Re: Rail joiners & PECO

Doug Wagner
 

Might take a gander at this link to see if it might help

https://modelrailwayengineer.com/sunday-scribbles-easy-way-fitting-rail-joiners/

Doug Wagner
Bakersfield, California

In a message dated 05/01/19 11:25:20 Pacific Standard Time, macionis@... writes:

I sympathize, and have multiple finger tip scars from those nasty joiners.  Using small pliers designed for this very task will avoid the blood.  But those joiners are too tight!  I have given up using them (except on code 70 track) and now use Atlas universal joiners.  Yes, they’re much bigger, and loose, but they go on easily, and I solder all joints and paint the rails so they look ok.
Bob

From: PennsyNut
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2019 11:11 AM
Subject: [w4dccqa] Rail joiners & PECO

I have a problem with my track. I have PECO code 83 flex, Insulfrog turnouts and code 83 joiners. The joiners are giving me headaches. Not to forget split nails, cut finger tips, etc. I even try putting a joiner on a spare piece of rail to then put onto the track. But those joiners are way too tight. Filing the rails, top, bottom and top of the base - very lightly, just enough to smooth and remove any burrs. Can't seem to figure out how to spread the end of the joiner a bit, just to get it started. The darn things just don't like me. LOL Positive help requested and appreciated.
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC

Re: Wiring the LEDs in a DC wired loco for DCC

Paul O
 

 Dennis, you’ll have to give us a lot more information in order for us to help.
Is there any circuitboard involved in the wiring? Do the red LEDs only come on in reverse?
If you can, draw out the wiring on the sheet of paper, create a JPEG or some other form and upload it to the Files or photo section depending on what format you upload.

Paul O

Re: Rail joiners & PECO

PennsyNut
 

I appreciate all the advice. I'm not quite clear on that photo and how it works. I do have a home-made tool: 6" piece of rail, bent up about half the length of a joiner. And a wire nut on the top. Easier to hold than just a rail with joiner. The rail end to hold the joiner is nicely filed, smooth, etc. And it helps some. But the problem is that the joiner is just too tight. And even with tools to help reduce the cutting of fingers and splitting of finger nails, those joiners are not right. The trick is that the joiner must be tight enough to not slip off. What I find really silly is when I do get a joiner on, and have to take it off. The next time, is just as difficult to get on. Also, I like to be able to have my turnouts totally removable. Slide the joiner off the turnout completely on the adjoining rail. Lift the turnout right out. Put the repaired one or a new one right back in place. Slide those joiners back onto the turnout and done. No muss, no fuss, no mess, simple. I use the Insulfrogs with no wires at all. But with these PECO joiners, I can't do that. For one thing, the joiner is too long. The joiner is ideal for connecting two pieces of flex. And because it's so tight, probably will conduct electricity better than a loose joiner. You can still solder joints if you wish. There is another type of joiner that looks like tie plates, and is in two pieces, but those are expensive. Might be better, but this hobby is expensive enough. And what strikes me is that PECO produces a fine product, turnouts are superb. Why are their joiners so tight.
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC

Re: Rail joiners & PECO

george hohon3
 

With a minor amount of filing on the rail, just enough to remove any burrs, joiners slip into place without any force or cut finger tips.

LG


From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> on behalf of PennsyNut <pennsynut@...>
Sent: Wednesday, May 1, 2019 6:07 PM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Rail joiners & PECO
 
I appreciate all the advice. I'm not quite clear on that photo and how it works. I do have a home-made tool: 6" piece of rail, bent up about half the length of a joiner. And a wire nut on the top. Easier to hold than just a rail with joiner. The rail end to hold the joiner is nicely filed, smooth, etc. And it helps some. But the problem is that the joiner is just too tight. And even with tools to help reduce the cutting of fingers and splitting of finger nails, those joiners are not right. The trick is that the joiner must be tight enough to not slip off. What I find really silly is when I do get a joiner on, and have to take it off. The next time, is just as difficult to get on. Also, I like to be able to have my turnouts totally removable. Slide the joiner off the turnout completely on the adjoining rail. Lift the turnout right out. Put the repaired one or a new one right back in place. Slide those joiners back onto the turnout and done. No muss, no fuss, no mess, simple. I use the Insulfrogs with no wires at all. But with these PECO joiners, I can't do that. For one thing, the joiner is too long. The joiner is ideal for connecting two pieces of flex. And because it's so tight, probably will conduct electricity better than a loose joiner. You can still solder joints if you wish. There is another type of joiner that looks like tie plates, and is in two pieces, but those are expensive. Might be better, but this hobby is expensive enough. And what strikes me is that PECO produces a fine product, turnouts are superb. Why are their joiners so tight.
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC